hood of those waters the pasture was rich and luxuriant; and they traversed two fields (for so they are termed in the narrative) of the rose and the sweetbrier, while each loaded the air with its own peculiar perfume. The evening encampment was in the "pretty valley of the Rapid river."

July 6.-Hitherto Governor Simpson had been travelling at the daily speed of horses, but his subsequent progress was retarded by that of loaded carts, which had preceded his own departure from Fort Garry. He mentions, during the day's route, numerous small lakes, a large salt lake, and a shoal lake, lying in a hilly and well-wooded district.

July 7.-Reached, after an hour's ride over hilly and rugged ground, what is called George Sinclair's encampment, on Bird-tail creek, a rapidly flowing tributary of the Assiniboin, and beyond this stream was an undulating prairie of vast extent, with the Assiniboin in the distance. On a neighboring height three bands of antelopes were seen-the first animals observed since leaving Red River settlement, although the prairies immediately before the party, the writer remarks, are well known as the home of many varieties of the deer.

July 8.-Reached Fort Ellice, (post of the Hudson Bay Company,) sending carts and baggage across the Assiniboin in a bateau belonging to the post, swimming the horses over, and the travellers making their own passage in the barge's last trip. Those facts indicate the Assiniboin to be a considerable stream, perhaps navigable by steamers quite near its western source.

July 9.-Passed through extensive prairies studded with clumps of trees. It is mentioned that, during the day, considerable inconvenience with regard to provisions was suffered from the heat of the weather. The afternoon's march was through a swampy country beset with underwood, the rout constantly winding, like a river, round the extremities of lakes and marshes.

July 10.-Prairie harder and more open; vegetation withering from drought; antelopes bounding over the hillocks. A cold rain fell all the afternoon and night. The party "spent a miserable night under the pouring torrent, while wolves and foxes rendered the position more hideous by their howling.”

July 11.-Quite a landmark of the journey was attained, the Butte aux Chiens, Dog Knoll, towering with a height of about four hundred feet over a boundless prairie as level and as smooth as a pond. This vast plain, which the writer supposes to have once been the bed of a lake, with an islet in its centre, is covered with an alluvial soil of great fertility, is strewed with water-worn stones, and presents various aqueous deposits. On leaving, the day's route traversed about thirty-five miles of prairie among several large and beautiful lakes. At this time the ordinary rate of travelling was four or five miles an hour for ten, twelve, or fourteen hours a day.

July 12.-Followed, for about twenty miles, the shores of Lac Sale, or Salt Lake, having waters as briny as the Atlantic. A curious circumstance is noted in respect to these saline lakes, that they are often separated from fresh water only by a narrow belt of land.

July 13.-Marched till 10 o'clock in a soaking rain. The weather improving in the afternoon, the route for a long distance was through "a picturesque country, crossing the end of an extensive lake, whose gently sloping banks of green sward were crowned with thick woods."

July 14.-Under this date an extract is appended: "In this part of the country we saw many kinds of birds, geese, loons, pelicans, ducks, cranes, two kinds of snipe, hawks, owls, and gulls; but they were all so remarkably shy that we were constrained to admire them at a distance. In the afternoon we traversed a beautiful country with lofty hills and long valleys full of sylvan lakes, while the bright green of the surface, as far as the eye could reach, assumed a foreign tinge under an uninterrupted profusion of roses and blue-bells. On the summit of one of these hills we commanded one of the few extensive prospects we had of late enjoyed. One range of heights rose behind another, each becoming

fainter as it receded from the eye, till the furthest was blended, in almost undistinguishable confusion, with the clouds, while the softest vales spread a panorama of hanging copses and glittering lakes at our feet."

*

The travellers had now reached the Bow river, or the south branch of the Saskatchewan, "which," says Simpson, "takes its rise in the Rocky mountains, near the international frontier, and is of considerable size, without any physical impediment of any moment. At the crossing place the Bow river is about a third of a mile in width, with a strong current, and, some twenty miles below, falls into the main Saskatchewan, whence the united streams flow toward Lake Winnipeg, forming at their mouth the Grand Rapids of about three miles in length."

A smart ride of four or five hours from the Bow river, through a country very much resembling an English park, brought the party to Fort Carleton, on the Saskatchewan; latitude 53°, longitude about 108°. Governor Simpson speaks of large gardens and fields in the vicinity of the fort, producing an abundance of potatoes and other vegetables, but adds that wheat is often destroyed by the frosts of autumn.

"The Saskatchewan," he remarks, "is here upward of a quarter of a mile wide, presenting, as its name implies, a swift current. It is navigable for boats from Rocky Mountain House, in longitude 116°, to Lake Winnipeg, upwards of seven hundred miles in a direct line, but by the actual course of the stream nearly double that distance. Though above Edmonton the river is much obstructed by rapids, yet from that fort to Lake Winnipeg it is descended, without a portage, alike by boats and canoes, while even on the upward voyage the only break in the navigation is the Grand Rapids, already mentioned."

The party remained several days at Fort Carleton. Frequent reference is made in the narrative to parties of Indians, the whole number in the Saskatchewan district being estimated at 16,730, and also a party of emigrants from the Red River settlement to the Pacific. In the latter connexion occurs the following touching incident, itself a high tribute to the attractiveness of the unexplored Saskatchewan:

"Among the emigrants was one poor woman, upwards of seventy-five years of age, who was tottering after her son to his new home. This venerable wanderer was a native of the Saskatchewan, of which, in fact, she bore the name; she had been absent from this the land of her birth for eighteen years, and, on catching the first glimpse of the river from the hill near Carleton, she burst, under the influence of old recollections, into a violent flood of tears. While the party remained at the fort she scarcely ever left the banks of the stream, appearing to regard it with as much veneration as the Hindoo regards the Ganges."

There remained a week's journey to Edmonton, and among its incidents were the following: The route on the first day "lay over a hilly country so picturesque in its character that almost every commanding portion presents the elements of an interesting panorama; "buffalo soon became very numerous, and, in addition, the party frequently met wolves, badgers, foxes, beavers, and antelopes; raspberries, a sort of cross between the cranberry and black currant, called the serviceberry, and the eyeberry, very nearly resembling the strawberry in taste and appearance, were found in abundance. A sharp frost before sunrise, followed by a heavy dew, occurred on the 22d of July. Near Edmonton they crossed a vast plain, which was covered with a luxuriant crop of the vetch, or wild pea, almost as nutritious a food for cattle and horses as oats; while the vicinity of the fort is represented as rich in mineral productions, a seam of coal, ten feet deep, having been traced for a considerable distance along both sides of the river.

We will not follow the governor of the Hudson Bay Company through the gorges of the Rocky mountains, or his subsequent adventures on the Pacific

coast.

The area comprised within the rivers converging to Lake Winnipeg is esti mated to contain 400,000 square miles. Familiar as the American public is with the progress of the Mississippi States, I am inclined to review the basin of Lake Winnipeg from the western stand-point of its capacity, to be divided and occupied as States or provinces, each having an average area of 50,000 square miles. Starting, therefore, from that point of the western boundary of Minnesota, which has become the head of steamboat navigation on the Red river, I proceed, in convenient subdivisions, to describe the vast district enclosed between latitudes 49° and 55°, and extending from the shores of Lake Winnipeg to the Rocky mountains.

THE AMERICAN VALLEY OF THE red river.

Of this district Lac Traverse in one direction, and Ottertail lake in a line nearer north from Saint Paul-either point not more than two hundred miles distant may be regarded as its extreme southern limits; Pembina and the international frontier the northern, while the longitude of Red lake on the east, and of Minnewakan or Spirit lake on the west are convenient designations of the remaining boundaries. This area would extend from about latitude 46° to 49°, and from longitude 95°.30 to 99°.

Captain Pope, in his exploration of 1849, remarks that for fifty miles in all directions around Ottertail lake is the garden of the northwest. The outlet of the lake, constituting the source of the Red River of the North, has been very favorably described by Dr. Owen, of the United States geological survey. It presents a succession of lakes and rapids, while at other points rolling prairies extend from its banks, crested with beautifully-dispersed groves of timber. It was in this section of Minnesota that the magnesian limestone containing silurian fossils, identical with those in the bluffs of the Mississippi below St. Paul, was recognized by Dr. Owen in situ-showing that the primary formation which divides Minnesota from northeast to southwest is succeeded to the northwest by the ascending series of sedimentary rocks.

There is ample testimony that westward from Ottertail lake for at least one hundred miles, and northward to Red lake, if not beyond, no more favorable distribution of beautiful prairies and forests can be imagined. The lakes are numerous but small, and almost invariably skirted with timber, the sugar maple largely preponderating. Seldom is the traveller out of sight of these groves, while the soil is unsurpassed.

From Dr. Owens's Geological Report it appears that below the head of navigation the western bank of the Red river is a vast plain, but on the east, where the country is level, timber is more abundant on the river banks; the soil is congenial to the ash, which attains a large size. Below the mouth of Red Lake river strong chalybeate springs ooze from the clay banks; saline springs are also found, and all accounts concur that hardly an acre but is eminently adapted to the cultivation of wheat. This great staple, with the aid of machinery, will hereafter be cultivated more advantageously over the northwestern areas of the continent than in the Mississippi basin.

ASSINIBOIA.

This is the official designation of the district of British America occupied by the Selkirk settlements. It embraces the lower or northern section of the Red river and the productive valley of the Assiniboia. Here is a civilized and interesting community of ten thousand souls, with schools, churches, a magistracy, and a successful agriculture.

A sketch of Selkirk settlement is postponed to a subsequent division of this report.

CUMBERLAND.

North of the Red River settlements is a region, almost a discovery of recent explorers, which is even more attractive than the prairie district contiguous to the Red and Assiniboia rivers. Immediately west of Lake Winnipeg are Lakes Winnipegoos and Manitoba, with an outlet flowing into Lake Winnipeg, in latitude 52°. Tributary to Lake Winnipegoos are the Red Deer and Swan rivers, which drain a country of rare beauty and fertility. A traveller, writing to a Canadian newspaper, describes its general features as rich prairies, interspersed with belts of heavy oak and elm; while the itinerary of Sir George. Simpson affords a most glowing picture of the sources of Swan river. Under date of July 14 he observes: "In this part of the country we saw many sorts of birds, geese, loons, pelicans, ducks, cranes, two kinds of snipe, hawks, owls, and gulls; but they were all so remarkably shy that we were constrained to admire them from a distance. In the afternoon we traversed a beautiful country with lofty hills and long valleys full of sylvan lakes, while the bright green of the surface, as far as the eye could reach, assumed a foreign tinge, under an uninterrupted profusion of roses and blue-bells. On the summit of one of these hills we commanded one of the few extensive prospects we had of late enjoyed. One range of heights rose behind another, each becoming fainter as it receded from the eye, till the furthest was blended in almost undistinguishable confusion with the clouds, while the softest vales spread a panorama of hanging copses and glittering lakes at our feet."

As Cumberland House is situated north of the valley of Swan river, upon the Saskatchewan, its name has been chosen to designate the district between longitude 100° and 105° and from latitude 52° to 55°. An equal area immediately south, and between the parallels of 49° and 52°, is no less attractive and fertile.

SASKATCHEWAN.

There remains, from longitude 105° to 115°, and from latitude 49° to 55°, the respective valleys of the North and South Saskatchewan-ample in area and resources for four States of the extent of Ohio. I propose to consider the whole interval westward from the junction of the two rivers to the Rocky mountains without subdivision, as, indeed, it is presented by Colton's map of North America.

The prairie districts adjacent to the South Saskatchewan are described by the Canadian explorers as inferior to the rich alluvial plains of the Red and Assiniboin rivers; but Sir George Simpson's sketches of his route from Fort Carleton to Fort Edmonton are suggestive of a superior agricultural region.

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An authority in regard to the more western portions of the Saskatchewan is Father De Smet, the devoted Jesuit missionary to the Indians of Oregon, mentioned by Governor Stevens, in a recent address before the New York Geographical Society, as a man whose name is a tower of strength and faith," possessing high scientific attainments and great practical knowledge of the country. His "Oregon Missions" is a publication of much interest, consisting of letters to his superiors; and a portion of this volume narrates his explorations and adventures in the Saskatchewan valleys of the Rocky mountains. In September, 1854, he left the source of the Columbia river in latitude 50°, and crossed the Rocky mountains, descending their eastern slope in latitude 51°. He entered, on the 18th of September, "a rich valley, agreeably diversified with meadows, forests, and lakes, the latter abounding in salmon trout." This was a mountain valley, however, and it was not till three days afterwards that he reached Bow river, on the south of the Saskatchewan. Thence he continued northward, noticing sulphurous fountains and coal on the Red Deer, a branch

of the Bow river. Descending the valley of the Red Deer, which is also described in very glowing terms, at length he emerged upon what he describes as "the vast plain-the ocean of prairies."

On the evening of the same day the missionary reached and was hospitably received at the Rocky Mountain House, latitude 53°, and longitude 115°, and on the 31st October started for another journey on the plains; but after two weeks' absence was compelled to seek refuge from the approach of winter (now the middle of November) at Edmonton House, on the upper Saskatchewan. From this shelter he thus writes in general terms:

"The entire region in the vicinity of the eastern chain of the Rocky mountains, serving as their base for thirty or sixty miles, is extremely fertile, abounding in forests, plains, prairies, lakes, streams, and mineral springs. The rivers and streams are innumerable, and on every side offer situations favorable for the construction of mills. The northern and southern branches of the Saskatchewan water the district I have traversed for a distance of about three hundred miles. Forests of pine, cypress, thorn, poplar, and aspen trees, as well as others of different kinds, occupy a large portion of it, covering the declivities of the mountains and banks of the rivers.

"These originally take their rise in the highest chains, whence they issue in every direction like so many veins. The beds and sides of these rivers are pebbly, and their course rapid, but as they recede from the mountains they widen, and the currents lose something of their impetuosity. Their waters are usually very clear. The country would be capable of supporting a large popu lation, and the soil is favorable for the production of barley, corn, potatoes, and beans, which grow here as well as in the more southern countries.

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Are these vast and innumerable fields of hay forever destined to be consumed by fire, or perish in the autumnal snows? How long shall these superb forests be the haunts of wild beasts? And these inexhaustible quarries—these abundant mines of coal, lead, sulphur, iron, copper, and saltpetre-can it be that they are doomed to remain forever inactive? Not so. The day will come when some laboring hand will give them value; a strong, active, and enterprising people are destined to fill this spacious void. The wild beasts will, ere long, give place to our domestic animals; flocks and herds will graze in the beautiful meadows that border the numberless mountains, hills, valleys, and plains of this extensive region."

Life at Edmonton during the winter season is thus sketched:

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The number of servants, including children, is about eighty. Besides a large garden, a field of potatoes and wheat belonging to the establishment, the lakes, forests, and plains of the neighborhood furnish provisions in abundance. On my arrival at the fort the ice-house contained thirty thousand white fish, each weighing four pounds, and five hundred buffaloes-the ordinary amount of the winter provisions. Such is the quantity of aquatic birds in the season, that sportsmen often send to the fort carts full of fowls. Eggs are picked up by thousands in the straw and weeds of the marshes. I visited Lake St. Anne, a missionary station fifty miles northwest from Edmonton. The surface of this region is flat for the most part, undulating in some places, diversified with forests and meadows, and lakes teeming with fish. In Lake St. Anne alone were caught, last autumn, more than seventy thousand white fish, the most delicious of the kind. They are taken with a line at every season of the year. "Notwithstanding the rigor and duration of the winter in this northern region, the earth, in general, appears fertile. Vegetation is so formed in the spring and summer that potatoes, wheat, and barley, together with other vegetables of Canada, come to maturity."

On the 12th of March Father De Smet started on his return trip, proceeding with sledges drawn by dogs over the snow to Fort Jasper, situated northwest