moulded round the ends, keeping them red-hot. Then, after forming a hole in the centre of each, they stood opposite another, and joining the two lumps just where the holes were, they walked backwards, pulling the soft glass into a long thin pipe of 100 feet or more in length, till the lumps were exhausted. When retouched it was hard, and the perforation ran through it from end to end. This was broken into lengths and carried to another room, where, by a very simple machine, it was cut up into bugles or beads; and beyond were rooms full of girls, threading them for the Eastern market. This they effected by having large basins of beads before them, and a number of long, slender needles ready threaded, in one hand, which they plunged into the basins repeatedly till all were full; then pulling the beads on to the thread, they renewed the action. By this means the work was speedily done."--MISS CATLOW's Sketching Rambles.

At the Church of S. Michele, over the great door, is the monument of Cardinal Doffino, who died 1622, chiefly by Bernini. The lofty choir is covered with many sculptured marbles; and the church altogether is highly ornamented. There are monuments to Fra Paolo Sarpi, the historian, and Morelli, the scholar, who was former librarian of St. Mark's.

On the left is the Cappella Emilana, a highly adorned domed chapel of six sides, 28 feet diameter within, by Bergamasco.

SS. Pietro e Paolo Church contains many paintings. Near the second altar is Pordonone's Annunciation. To the left of this, near the wall, is the Virgin on a Throne, with the infant Jesus and Saints; a fine work by Vivarini. Fronting this picture is G. Bellino's Virgin and the two Angels, with the Doge A. Barberigo, and other persons, kneeling before her. Leaving this church cross the wooden bridge, turn to the left, and on the quay is

Degli Angeli Church.-The sacristy has some ancient tapestry from Cartoons of the Venetian school of the sixteenth century. A little way back from this, beyond the bridge, is

S. Donato, the Duomo of Murano, the oldest and most curious church here, in the Byzantine style of the twelfth century. Ten Greck marble columns support the roof, and the pavement is inlaid with mosaics of the year 1140. A picture of the Virgin is almost as old as the church, and there are some traces of early frescoes, but the whole are in a state of neglect. The altar of the chapel is imposing.

Burano is north of this; where lace and straw hats are made.

Then comes Torcello, which has a fine old church, built 1008, by Bishop Orseolo, covered with mosaics and marble. Eighteen pillars, with curiously shaped capitals, hold up the nave. The holy water basin was formerly a Pagan altar. The sanctuary, further in, is adorned with beautiful marble sculptures; within this, in old times, only the clergy were allowed to come. Behind the high altar is the bishop's marble chair, under a vault

covered with fine mosaics of the Last Judgment, now falling to pieces. The antiquated marble shutters on iron hinges are worth remark. From this church, you proceed to the very old Church of S. Fosca, built in the ninth century, out of the stones of Roman buildings, by fugitives from Altineum and Julia Concordia, on the mainland, when it was ravaged by the barbarians. This church is decorated with pillars in the Greek style.

The island of SANTA ELENA, close to Venice, has a church to the memory of the Empress Helena. A quarantine called the Lazzaretto Nuovo and Vecchio, is established on two islands.

S. Andrea del Lido, the port to Venice, so called from the Lido or Littorale, a strip 35 miles long, which fences off the sea from the lagoons, has a fortress or castle, built 1541-71, by Sanmicheli, to command the main entrance here (10 feet of water). It has a Doric entablature, and is a master-piece of this architect, many of whose works still exist at Verona. There are sea-baths on the Lido. In 1887, a sum of £200,000 was voted for additional breakwaters and docks. Here Byron used to "No pencil can

ride, and wished to be buried. paint the scene which I have so often beheld from the shores of the Lido, when the sun pours his last rays upon innumerable domes, palaces, and towers, floating as it were on the bosom of the water; and long after he has sunk behind the cupola of St. George, leaves his old purple light upon the distant snow-Alps and far-seen promontories of Istria."-Lord Broughton.

Malamocco, or Malamauco, guarding one of the chief entrances from the Adriatic (with 17 feet of water), was the early seat of the Doges, after

leaving Eraclea, where the first Doge, Anafesto, They removed hence to the

was elected, in 697.

Rialto, in 809.

Forts Alberoni and S. Pietro are stationed at the mouth of the Porto, in the middle of the great dyke, which is 14 miles long, at the edge of the lagoons, and is made of enormous stone blocks.

On S. Lazzaro, to the south of Venice, is a convent of Armenians, who settled here 1717; and have a library of 10,000 volumes, about 400 Armenian MSS., some as early as the fourth century, but most of them of the eighth century; a printing press, and a priests' seminary. Byron studied Armenian here, and helped his tutor in a dictionary of the language.

Near PALESTRINA is the Murazzi or breakwater, a marble wall on piles rising 10 feet above the sea.

Chioggia, the southernmost island of the Lagoons (35 miles from Rovigo, page 59), contains a town and bishop's see of 20,380 souls, with a good cathedral, theatre, &c. Here, in 1380, the Genoese were finally defeated after a long and doubtful struggle, and 4,000 made prisoners by the Venetians, under Doge Pisani. Bombards or mortars were first used on this occasion; the

Inns: Stella d'Oro; Albergo Reale.

The ancient Tarvisium, under the Goths (whose last king was a native), now a bishop's see, &c., in a fertile part of the Sile. Population, with suburbs, 28,300. After the Longobards or Lombards held it, it became the head of a district called Marca Trevisana; was acquired by the Venetians in the fourteenth century, and besieged in 1509 by the German and French armies. The streets are old and irregular, with ornamented arcades before the houses. A cross-shaped Cathedral, begun by the Lombards, and still incomplete, has paintings by Veronese, Titian, and Bordone (Adoration of the Shepherds), a native. The town house, law courts, and new prison are near it. St. Nicholas's Gothic Church has works by Bellini and Sebastiano del Piombo; and there is a work (Annunciation) by Giorgione, in the Monte di Pietà. Other buildings are, ten or eleven Churches, the Bishop's Palace, the Palazzi (seats) of the Pola, Brescia, and other families, the hospital, Scala theatre, public library of 30,000 volumes, botanic garden, and Athenæum or academy of sciences, &c. Coach to Feltre, up the Piave. The province was called Trevisiano when it belonged to Venice. A short line (22 miles) from here to Motta di Livenza was opened, past Ponte Piave, in 1885.

From Treviso there is a line, 53 miles, to Belluno, through Cornuda and Feltre, which has a monument to Castalpi or Castalai, who is said to have taught first the use of moveable type. Near here is Pieve di Cadore, the birth place of Titian, to whom there is a statue He died aged 99, having painted 600 works. Rail also to Vicenza, see page 50.

Conegliano (Stat.) Population, 5,000. It has an old castle, and a church containing an altarpiece, by G. B. Cima, called Cima da Conegliano, a native of this town. From here a branch line is open to Vittorio (Stat.)

The earthquake of June, 1873, which half destroyed Belluno, did great damage to Feretto, near Conegliano; where the Church of St. Peter, a rotten old building, was overturned during service, and 38 persons killed.

Sacile (Stat.), on the Tivenza. Pop. 4,500. Pordenone (Stat.) Population, 5,000. The birth-place of G. A. Licinio, or Pordenone, the painter, some of whose works are in the town churches.

Casarsa (Stat.) The rail crosses the stony bed of the Tagliamento, by a long viaduct, to Codroipo (Stat.) The next place is

Pasian Schiavonesco (Stat.), near Campo Formio, or Formido (on the right), where the Treaty of October, 1797, was signed by the French and Austrians, which decided the fate of Venice.

Udine (Stat.) Population. 23,254 An archbishop's see and the old capital of Friuli, which belonged to the Patriarch of Aquileia, and was acquired by Venice in 1445. It was ravaged by pestilence in 1511 and 1665. Among the buildings are the Patriarch's old Castle, overlooking the plain; a Cathedral of the fourteenth century; the Palazzo Publico, near the Pillar of St. Mark; a campanile or clock tower, built by Giovanni da Udine, a native artist; the Archbishop's Palace, and town library, containing rare MSS. At the hospital is the Coronation of the Virgin, by another native, Girolamo da Udine. From here, a branch Railway is open across the plain of Friuli, to San Pelagio, Tricesimo, Tarcento, Magnano-Artegna, Gemona (an old place on a hill, near Monte Chiampo, 5,625 feet high), Carnia, Resiutta, Chiusaforte, and Pontebba, on the Austrian frontier, thence to Vienna. Short line from Udine to CIVIDALE, the ancient Forum Julii.

S. Giovanni Manzano (Stat.) Cormons (Stat.), the Austrian Customs-house. Here Prague time is kept.

Gorizia (Stat.), on the Isonzo, which forms the border line of Austrian Italy. The line descends the river to

Ronchi (Stat.), Monfalcone (Stat.), and Nabresina (Stat.), on the Gulf of Trieste. Then through

Rovigo

Miles.

Miles. 6 Arquà .32\ .114 Pollesela ............364 ..164 S. Maria Maddalena..432 Pontelagoscuro ......45 Ferrara ................ ..47

.........18

.27 [Brs. to Adria & Verona.] Abano (Stat.) Population, 2,800. Near hot springs and mud baths (Fons Aponi) which have been used by invalids from Roman times. One is up to 180 degrees; they are good for rheumatism and the skin. Hotels: Orologio; Due Torre; and a Bath House. There are similar springs at other spots around. They and the Euganean hills around are of volcanic origin. Livy was actually born at Abano, though claimed as a Paduan. It is also the birth-place of Pietro d'Abano, a philosopher of the fourteenth century.

Battaglia (Stat.) and its old Castle, natural hot springs and vapour baths, and Bath House. About 2 miles south-west is

Arquà, the Roman Arquata, a healthy spot in the Euganean Hills, which, likewise, contains mineral springs, but is most celebrated as the residence of Petrarch in his last days; where he died peacefully, in 1374, with his head over a book in his library. They show his Tomb, which, with his bust, stands on four pillars of red marble in the Chapel of the Virgin, which he built; also his house, chair, stuffed cat, and other relics. Several of his later works were written in this quiet retreat. The fifth centenary of his death was observed by a fête here 1874.

Monselice (Stat.) Population, 5,000). Where also a road may be taken to Arquà. It has a fine old Castle on the volcanic heights. [A line runs from here to Este, Montagnana, Legnago. and Mantua (page 65).

Inn: Speranza.

ESTE (Stat.)

An ancient town (population, 10,650), near the Roman Aleste, in a fine part of the Euganean Hills; having a round Lombard church, with a leaning tower or Campanile, and the feudal Rocco, or Castle of the Este family, one of the oldest in Europe. Its head, to go no further back, was Oberto, Count of the Palace, and son-in-law of the Emperor Otho, who died 972. His grandson, Albertazzo II., received the fief of Este about 1030; and his great great grandson, Albertazzo, was Wulf or Welf IV., from w hom descends the Royal House of Brunswick, or Este-Guelph, now represented by Queen Victoria and other branches. Azzo V., in the twelfth century, was elected Lord of Ferrara, which henceforth became their seat; while Este

was taken by the Paduans, 1293; and by the Venetians, who retained it, 1405. In the year 1288, the family acquired Modena.]

After crossing the Adige, you come to Rovigo (Stat.) The head of a small watery province, between the Adige and Po, and a bustling town of 9,600 inhabitants. Among its noticeable buildings are the Cathedral of the Bishop of Adria, the Palazzo del Podestà, facing the column of St. Mark, and the Virgin Chapel. Richeno, or Rhoviginus, the scholar, was a native. Another was Erminia Fusinato, the poetess, born 1834, and buried at Rome.

Branch Lines to Lama, Adria, and Chioggia (page 87), 35 miles; and to Legnago and Verona.

[Adria (Stat.), or Hadria, about 15 miles east of Rovigo, was once a Roman municipium and port on the Adriatic, to which it gave name, but is now 15 miles from the sea. Population, 9,000. Remains of the walls, baths, amphitheatre, aqueducts. &c., still exist of the ancient town, which lay some feet lower than the modern one, and nearer the sea, the wide tract towards which has been filled up by river deposits.]

Arquà (Stat.), not to be confounded with the Arquà of Petrarch, near Battaglia, above mentioned.

Polesella (Stat.) or Polliselia, on the Po, the Bocche or mouths of which are 30 miles below.

Sta. Maria Maddalena (Stat.), where the line crosses the river to Ponte di Lagoscuro, in the Ferrarese and the Romagna, now part of the kingdom of Italy, by the popular vote of 12th March, 1860. All this region of marsh and swamp is protected by strong dykes from the encroachments of the Po. From

Pontelagoscuro (Stat.), it is 5 miles to
FERRARA (Stat.)

Population, 28,814.

Hotels: Stella d'Oro; De l'Europe; Tre Mori; Tre Corone.

Conveyances to Bologna, Padua, and Venice. *Chief Objects of Notice.-Ariosto's House, Cathedral, St. Benedetto, Santa Maria del Vado, Campo Santo, Ducal Palace, Pinacoteca, Santa Anna and Tasso's Cell, Schifanoja Palace, Lyceum, Guarini's House.

Ferrara, in a wide rich plain, has much declined in magnificence, population, and commerce, since Ariosto, its most eminent native, praised his "Città bene avventurosa," as "di tutta Italia il pregio e'l vanto." But being large and well built its aspect is still imposing. It is the seat of the Governor of the Province, and of an archbishop, and was formerly part of the Papal dominions, standing near the Po, to which several canals or naviglios run.

Among its "wide and grass-grown streets." the best are Corso V. Emanuele and Strada della Giovecca, meeting at the Castle in the chief square, and the Corso di Po, or S. Benedetto, the High Street, about 1 mile long, from the Rail

way Station to the Porte di S. Giovanni. The town itself, from the Porte di S. Benedetto to Porte di S. Giorgio, is not less than two miles in extent. Its fortified walls, until 1859, were garrisoned by an Austrian detachment, to support the authority of the Pope's legate. A strong citadel on the west side, on the site of the Piazza di Armi, was razed in 1859.

Compared with other Italian cities, Ferrara is modern, having grown up since the sixth century, when it was first enclosed by the Exarchs of Ravenna. Though exhibiting in its deserted streets marks of decay-a decay noticed by Addison, 1670, who speaks of it as "very large, but extremely thin of people"-its population has increased lately, and it carries on a good trade, which may possibly extend under the new order of things, assisted by the railway. About 2,000 Jews are settled here, who, as usual, live by themselves in their Ghetto quarter, where they have a synagogue, &c. The people of Ferrara have the reputation of being agreeable in their manners, and hospitable; but its chief drawback arises from the marshy exhalations to which it is at all times subject.

In 1208, Azzo VI., of the line of Este, was chosen by the citizens as vicar, or lord over them: being the first instance of a free Italian city doing what in the course of time became a regular practice with all, to save themselves from those internal contests with which it has always been their misfortune to be afflicted. One of his descendants, Azzo Novello, of the Guelf party, and a great patron of learning, invited the troubadours here, and founded schools and a famous university. Niccolo III., called "Azo" in the poem, was the husband of Byron's Parisina Malatesta, who was executed in 1405. Berso, another descendant, was a generous and enlightened prince, and became the first Duke of Ferrara, Modena, &c. After him came his illegitimate brother, Ercole, who established a theatre and a Hebrew press here, and delighted in the company of scholars, as Bojardo, Tebaldeo, &c. Alfonso I., his successor, who married Lucretia Borgia, was the patron of Ariosto. In the time of Ercole II., 1535, Calvin sought refuge here with the Duchess, the daughter of Louis XII., till he was driven away by the Inquisition. Upon the death, without issue, of Alfonso II., who shut up Tasso in the madhouse, Ferrara was taken possession of by Clement VIII, 1598; a change so unfavourable that its population gradually sunk from 60,000 to 20,000.

The author of the "Diary of an Invalid" despatches Ferrara in few words, an "old town where there is nothing worth seeing." But this is the hasty opinion of a sleepy traveller.

The chief open place is the Piazza Ariostea in the Corso, so named after the great poet, whose column stands here. He was not a native, though his father was. After ten years' labour he produced his great poem, Orlando Furioso, in forty cantos, dedicated to his generous patron, Cardinal Ippolito d'Este. The Cardinal, however, was a soldier, with little taste for poetry, and after reading it, asked where he

had "picked up so many absurd stories." Duke Alfonso made up for this, treating the poet so bountifully that he was able to build himself a house opposite St. Benedetto's Church. The garden is gone, but the house is still shown, as well as his father's house, called Casa degli Ariosti.

The Cathedral, in Piazza del Mercata, is a Greek cross, marked by a campanile of red marble. It was begun in 1135, and is a mixture of the GothicByzantine, or Romanesque and Italian. The façade is plain below, but the upper part is filled in with round Gothic arches, and other ornaments of an harmonious and pleasing character, and includes reliefs of the same and later dates; such as the Passion; Last Judgment, with Hell and Heaven (i.e., Abraham's Bosom); the Seven Capital Sins, &c. Notice also an antique bust by N. da Pisa, which is reverenced as a Madonna, above the side door on the left; and a statue of Albert d'Este on a pilgrimage to Rome. In the interior, which is modernised, are Garofalo's Madonna on a Throne, SS. Peter and Paul, and the Assumption; Bastianino's Last Judgment, with portraits of many of his acquaintances in it, including a woman who refused to marry him, and who is put in hell for a punishment; C. Tura's Annunciation, and St. George; Dossi's tomb of Urban III.; tomb of Clement XI; and C. Tura's curious series of miniatures in the twenty-three missals of the choirs. ancient altar, near Francia's Coronation of the Virgin, is adorned with bronze statues by Biondelli and Marescotti. Some parts of the choir are of the last century. An echo repeats 20 times.

An

S. Francesco Church, near the Giovecca, founded by Ercole I., 1498, contains Garofalo's Betrayal of Christ, a Madonna and Saints, the Holy Family, Resurrection of Lazarus, and his Massacre of the Innocents; Ortolano's Holy Family; with others by Monio and Scarsellino; also various tombs of the Este family, and that of Pigna who was Tasso's rival. Here also is a good echo which repeats seventeen (or sixteen) times.

The Church of S. Benedetto was attached to the Benedictine Convent, now used as a military hospital. It is a fine building, deserving attention; rebuilt 1593, in place of the old one in which Ariosto was buried, 1533. For the new church, a handsome monument of the poet was prepared by his pupil, A. Morti, and placed on the right of the altar, over his remains. In 1612, these were moved to a more magnificent tomb, raised by his grandnephew, on the left side of the altar. This has since been taken to the Lyceum. There are pictures in the church, by D.Dossi (the Crucifixion), Garofalo, Scarsellino (Martyrdom of St. Catherine), P. Veronese, &c., with G. Cremonesi's St. Mark. In the porch is Garofalo's Paradise (brought here from the convent refectory), in which a portrait of the poet is introduced above the choir of angels.

S. Paolo. Paintings by E. Grandi, Bonone, Scarsellino (the Holy Ghost), and others; with monuments of G. B. Dossi, Bastamolo, and A. Montecatino; the last being the work of A. Vicentino,

S. Domenico, near the Castello. Here are carved effigies in the front; good paintings, by Garofalo (St. Peter-Martyr), Bononi, and other native masters; and the monument of C. Calcagnini, a learned man of the sixteenth century.

Santa Maria del Vado, built as far back as 1171, is the oldest church here, and has some quaint carvings on its front. It is full of paintings, among which are Bononi's Miracle of the Host, Crowning of the Virgin, &c.; and a copy of D. Dossi's John the Divine, and the Whore of Babylon. The latter was painted naked, but has been decently dressed by the care of some scrupulous Bolognese artist. Also, D. Panetti's Visitation; P. Vecchio's Christ and the Tribute Money; Carpi's Miracles of St. Anthony; and N. Caffaccio's Death of St. Mary. On the picture of Justice and Force, is the enigma of Alex. Guarini, in latin, which no person has hitherto made out. The sacristy contains Panetti's Annunciation, and a Flight into Egypt by Sea. There are tombs of the painters, Garofalo, Ortolano, Bonone, Bastianino, and Dielai; and of the poets, T. V. Strozzi, and his son Ercole, a branch of the great Florentine house of that name, which settled here in the fifteenth century. Ercole, the best poet of the two, and a friend of Ariosto, was killed one night by twenty-two stabs. His widow, a poetess, wrote a sonnet to his memory.

S. Spirito. Garofalo's fresco of the Last Supper, in the refectory of the convent adjoining.

S. Andrea, near the Montegnone Promenade. In the choir is Garofalo's Madonna and Saints; painted, some say, under the direction of Raphael.

S. Giorgio, in the south-west corner of Ferrara. Here Eugenius IV. called a Council to effect a union between the Eastern and Western Churches, in 1438. Cosmo, or Cosimo Tura, the painter, is buried at the entrance of the campanile.

Santa Maria della Consolazione, with an epitaph composed by E. Bentivoglio, for his daughter Julia, a child of four years.

The Campo Santo Church was founded by Borso d'Este, first Duke of Ferrara, and was designed by Sansovino. There are twelve chapels, containing the Mysteries, by N. Roselli, besides paintings by Bastianino (a St. Christopher), Dielai, &c. Several old tombs, worth notice, are in the graveyard (Campo Santo) of the old Certosa Convent, including that of Garofalo, with Canova's bust of Count Cicognaro.

In that of Il Gesu, is the tomb of Alfonso's second Duchess, Barbara. Other churches are those of

S. Maurelio, or the Cappucini Church, and De' Teatini, which has Guercino's Presentation.

*Palazzo Ducale, or Palace of the old Dukes of Ferrara, in the Giovecca, sometime the seat of the Papal Delegate, is a large, brick, moated castle, with angular turrets, in the feudal style. There are here, though in a partly decayed condition, works in oil and fresco of the brothers Dossi; such as the Aurora and the Bacchanals, of D. Dossi; besides other paintings. At the foot of the Lion's Tower, in the dungeons under this chamber, Parisina and

Ugo, or Hugh, were executed on the night of 21st March, 1405, and buried in St. Francesco's Cemetery. "Ferrara," says Byron, "is much decayed and depopulated, but the castle still exists entire, and I saw the court where they were beheaded." Parisina's room is shown. Some of the oldest buildings surround this palace.

The Town Hall, or Palazzo del Magistrato, near the Castello, has a fortified look, and is the place where the Accademia Ariostea holds its sittings.

Ateneo Pubblico, containing the *Pinacoteca, or Picture Gallery, is in the old Palazzo ErcoleVilla (1403), or House of the Diamond (Diamante) as it is called, from the diamond-shaped stones in its front. The paintings have been collected from the churches, and are in eight rooms. Among them are specimens of the Ferrara school of artists, including their chief, *Garofalo, viz., his Old and New Testament; Mount of Olives; Descent of the Holy Spirit; Resurrection; Adoration of the Magi; and Christ in the Garden. His Madonna and Child, painted as an altar-piece for the suppressed Convent of S. Guglielmo, is in the National Gallery. His real name was Tisio, but he is called Garofalo from the gillyflower or mark by which his pictures are known. C. Bononi's Marriage of Cana; P. Vecchio's Tribute Money; Tintoretto's Virgin of the Rosary; D. Dossi's Resurrection; Guercino's St. Bruno; Mazzolino's Adoration; A. Carracci's Manna in the Desert; E. Grandi's Adoration of the Magi; D. Dossi's Madonna and Child Enthroned, with Saints, a large picture, said to be his master-piece; C. Tura's portrait of a Cardinal.

*Palazzo Schifanoja, or Scandiana, near S. Andrea's Church, rebuilt on the site of one burnt in 1469 by Duke Ercole, was decorated with C. Tura's frescoes, illustrative of the achievements of Borso, the duke's brother, which were recovered from the whitewash in 1840. It is now a Deaf and Dumb School.

Palazzo Costabili.-Here is C. Tura's St. George and the Annunciation, painted in 1169 for the organ dome of the Cathedral, and reputed to be his master-piece. His portrait of T. Strozzi the poet, is at the Palazzo Strozzi. Palazzo Roverella, near the Hospital of Santa Anna, was built in the sixteenth century. Palazzo Bevilaqua has a good collection of paintings, &c. Palazzo Mazza, paintings by Garofalo and D. Dossi. Palazzo dei Lconi (Count Prosperi) has a fine portal by B. Peruzzi. One marble palace was Lucretia Borgia's.

The Chamber of Commerce is at Palazzo della Ragione, a Gothic brick pile, in Piazza del Mercata, near the Duomo.

A *Studio Pubblico, or Lyceum, which replaces the old university, comprises faculties of medicine and jurisprudence, and about 100 students. In the portico are several classical inscriptions and basreliefs, a cypher or grave-stone of one P. Publius, and a large sarcophagus dedicated by Aurelia Eutychia to her husband, a Syrian by birth. The large and valuable library, open from 8 to 12, was formed chiefly in the last century, and includes