Supper, by G. Ferrari; St. Francis, by Procaccini; a Flagellation, by Salmeggia, &c.

Santa Maria presso di S. Saltiro, was built by Bramante, on a site of a temple of Jupiter, and modernised inside, ì817, with an altar, by Pizzigali.

S. Stefano-Maggiore or in Broglio, in that Piazza, was rebuilt in the fifteenth century, and has a tower, three aisles, and a painting of Procaccini in one of its handsome chapels. Here Galazzo Visconti was assassinated, 1476. The Calvary Chapel of S. Bernardino is close to it.

S. Nazaro Maggiore, in Corso di Porta Romana, is a narrow cross, with an ante-chapel, and other chapels all around it. It is full of monuments of the Trivulzi family, on one of whom, an active soldier and Marshal of France is the epitaph, "Qui nunquam quievit, quiescit, tace" (He who never rested, rests here; silence!).

* S. Lorenzo, near Corso di Porta Ticinese, is a large singular octagonal church, 142 feet diameter, with a dome, by Pellegrino, and flanked by two small octagons; one of them being an ancient chapel in which Ataulphus, the Goth, and his wife (sister to the Emperor Honorius) are buried under a curious tomb; behind is a third octagon or baptistery, 45 feet diameter; and in front, beyond where the atrium stood, in the Corso, are sixteen fluted columns in a line, each above 40 feet high, of the Temple or Baths of Hercules, built, as is supposed, by Maximilianus; almost the sole remnant of the Romans now left here. An architrave of brickwork with towers at the end, was added by Napoleon to assist in their preservation.

S. Fidele, in the Piazza behind the old Jesuits' College, was built by Pellegrini, and has fine basreliefs in the front, by G. Monti, of St. Ambrose Interceding in the Plague of Milan. S. Angelo, in that strada, has double rows of columns in front, and a campanile tower.

S. Babila, which stood at the corner where the Corsi di Porta Orientale and di S. Romana meet, was the Church of the Inquisition. It has been pulled down.

*S.Carlo Borromeo,near Porta Orientale, is a large round church, built 1838-47, by Amati, with a dome copied from the Pantheon, 105 feet diameter, and 120 feet high. "Notwithstanding that it possesses internally twenty-two monolithic columns of beautiful Baveno marble, and some good sculpture, the whole is thin, mean, and cold, to an extent seldom found anywhere else. Externally the design is as bad. A portico of thirty-six Corinthian columns is arranged pretty much as in the British Museum. Each of them is a monolith of marble, nine feet in circumference, and the capital and entablature are faultless, but the central portico is crushed into insignificance by the dome of the church, which rises, like a great dish cover, behind it. and the wings are destroyed by having houses built behind them, with three storeys of windows under the porticoes, and three more above them, so arranged as to compete with, and, as far as possible, destroy. any little dignity the dome itself might possess."

D

-Fergusson. The Helvetic College, founded by Borromeo, is suppressed.

Santa Eufemia, on the site of one founded in the fifth century, is nearly opposite S. Paolo, and a little out of the Corso di S. Celso.

S. Eustorgio, just outside Porta Ticinese, close to the old Dominican Friary, contains tombs of the Torre and Visconti families, and among other objects of notice, Balducci's excellent shrine of St. Peter-Martyr, with its beautiful figures of Prudence, Hope, and other virtues. The stone pulpit and statue of St. Peter-Martyr face the church.

S. Marco, in Strada del Pontaccio, near the canal, has a Gothic front of the thirteenth century.

S. Maurizio Maggiore, in Corso di Porta Vércillina, belonging to a convent, is on the site of Jupiter's Temple, and has some excellent frescoes by Luini and G. Ferrari.

S. Saltiro, near Contrada Speronari, has no choir, but a capital painted imitation of one, at the end of the nave.

S. Sebastiano, a round church, in Contrada della Palla.

S. Sepolero, in that piazza, behind the Ambrose Library, has an old tower of the eleventh century.

It

The English Chapel is part of an old disused church, granted by the King at the request of Sir James Hudson, and comfortably fitted up. stands near the site of S. Giovanni in Conca d'Oro, which, before it was pulled down, was one of the oldest churches in Milan, and so called from the Conca, or tub of boiling oil, into which St. John was put. There was a bas-relief of him in the façade.

PALACES.-Near the Duomo is *Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace), rebuilt and enlarged on the site of the old palace of the Dukes of Milan. In the presence chamber are frescoes by Appiani (the apotheosis of Napoleon) and Hayez; with some by Sabatelli. A range of Caryatides, by Celano, supports the fine ball-room; and S. Gotardo's (Gothard's) Chapel which was part of the ancient palace, was restored and ornamented by the late Archduke Maximilian, when GovernorGeneral of Lombardy. The large halls adjoining the ball-room are hung with silk drapery, or old tapestry of the sixteenth century, from the Cartoons of Raphael, embroidered by the nuns of San Giorgio, near Mantua. Here the German Emperor was lodged at his visit, 1875. An elegant Lombard brick tower, of the fourteenth century, rises over the chapel, with a colossal angel in copper at the top. Near this palace is the

Palazzo Arcivescovile (Archbishop's), with simple, yet good front, rebuilt by S. Carlo Borromeo, in the sixteenth century. It has a gallery of Lombard and Venetian masters, including da Vinci, Titian, with landscapes by Vernet, Canaletto, &c. Formerly it made part of the royal palace adjoining.

Palace of the Government, in Borgo Monforte, a modern building, with a wide court, and a great hall painted by Appiani.

Palazzo della Città (or Mansion House), in Corso del Broletto, near the Cathedral, consists of two picturesque and Renaissance courts, built by F. Visconti.

Palazzo de Giustizia, in that street, a large pile, once the residence of the judge, now turned into prisons.

Palace of the Military Commandant, in Contrada di Brera, is rich in stuccoes and pictures.

Palazzo de la Contabilità, near Contrada di S. Andora, is composed of two noble courts, by F. Mangone, and is richly decorated inside.

Palazzo Marino or di Finanza, in Piazza S. Fidele, opposite the Scala, is usually called the *Casa Rotto (Red House). It is a rich pile, 200 feet long, 100 high, with three rows of pilasters in front, built by the Cavaliere Aretino, 1555, for Marino; its fine halls are now occupied by the Treasury and the Custom House (on the ground floor). "This is an original and beautiful building. Its peculiarity is that it looks like our Elizabethan, or as if erected in what may be called the Heidelberg style; it has so little affinity with the principal contemporary works in Italian cities."-Fergusson.

more

Piazza del Monte, in Contrada del Monte. The Police Office is near Contrada del Marino. In the Strada della Zecca is the Zecca, or Royal Mint, having a good collection of medals, ancient and modern. Behind it, near the Porta Nuova, is Casa di Corrazione, or House of Correction, a wellmanaged establishment. Further west, in Strada del Ponte di Santa Teresa, is the large Government Tobacco Factory.

Opposite Casa Castiglione is the house which was occupied by Bonaparte in 1797, when he told the Milanese he would "make them soldiers, and in six months lead them to the Tower of London."-LORD BROUGHTON'S Italy.

Among private palaces and villas belonging to the nobility, or built by them, are-Palazzo Annone, or Litta, a fine looking pile, built by D. Richini. Palazzo Visconti, with a bust on the top of the tower windows, which, with the skeleton of Hector Visconti, at Monza, are the only remains of that powerful family. Palazzo Belgiojosa, built by G. Piermarini. Palazzo Belloni, or Serbelloni, by the Marquis Cagnola. Palazzo Trivulzi, built by Marquis Trivulzi; it has a library of 30,000 volumes, and 2,000 MSS. The Palazzo Belgiojoso. Villa Bonaparte, in fine gardens.

The Royal Villa, formerly occupied by the late Archduke Maximilian, as Imperial Viceroy, is near the Public Gardens and Porta Orientale. The palace, once occupied by Queen Caroline, stands in the Public Gardens; and outside the gate on this side is the *Lazaretto mentioned in Manzoni's Promessi Sposi, an old quadrangle of one storey.

The Tribunale di Prima Instanza, near the Porta Romana, has good bas-reliefs.

The Ambrosian Library (daily, 10 to 3; festivals, 1 to 3), in Contrada della Biblioteca, was founded by Cardinal Borromeo, nephew of San Carlo, and contains and 140,000 volumes, above 15,000 MSS. and palimpsests (parchments written over by the monks), ainong which Mai, the great linguist, when librarian here, discovered Cicero's De Republica, parts of his lost Orations, the letters of M. Aurelius, &c. One of the most ancient MSS. is a Latin translation of Josephus, by Rufinus, on papyrus, supposed to be eleven centuries old: another, of the Gospels in Irish, is of the seventh century. There are also a fragment of St. Cyril in Sclavonic; ten letters of Lucretia Borgia, and a lock of her bright yellow hair; a MS. volume of Leonardo da Vinci, called Codice Atlantico, containing his first letter to his patron; Viconti's papers on Mechanics, &c., his designs and his will (all written from right to left); San Carlo's Missal and MSS., and other curiosities, with several bronzes and marbles.

The Paintings and drawings include Raphael's large cartoons of the School of Athens and the Battle of Constantine and Maxentius; portraits by Da Vinci, and a copy of his Last Supper; eleven Titians; Correggio's Christ and the Mater Dolorosa; Raphael's Washing the Disciples' feet; and others by Guercino, Del Sarto, C. Dolci, S. Rosa, Schidone, A. Dürer, Cranach, Holbein, and by Breughel (his Elements of Fire).

Another great collection is at the *Brera, or Palazzo delle Scienze e delle Arti; a vast building, formerly the Jesuits' College; built by Richini, and enlarged by Piermarini. It comprises the Institute of Sciences, Letters, and Art, founded 1802; the academy of fine arts; the public library of over 200,000 volumes, and 1,000 MSS., and an observatory (Specola) established 1769. One room having a flat roof and no pillars is remarkable for its size. Some of the best pictures are frescoes by B. Luini, Lazzari, and Ferrari; Guido's St. Peter and St. Paul; A. Carracci's St. Sebastian; Palma Vecchio's Woman taken in Adultery; Dance of Loves, by Albano,-and his Madonna; Domenichino's Virgin and Child; Bordone's Assumption; G. Romano's Nativity; Guercino's *Agar and Abraham (deserving particular

attention), also his Peter and Paul; Borgognone's Assumption; Garofalo's Crucifixion; Tintoretto's Saints before the Cross; P. Veronese's Christ in the Pharisee's House and Marriage of Cana; Conegliano's Martyrdom of St Peter; G. Bellini's St. Mark preaching at Alexandria, full of costumes; S. Rosa's Purgatory and his Jerome; Crespi's Christ bearing the Cross; L. Da Vinci's copy of his portrait of Cecilia Gallerani (mistress of Ludovico Il Moro); Raphael's *Sposalizio, or Espousals of Joseph and Mary; Giorgione's Moses in the Bullrushes and his St. Sebastian; Titian's St. Francis; Bonifacio's Christ at Emmaus, &c. Borgognone, with Bramantino, B. Lanini, &c., are

fifteenth and sixteenth century. Free on Sundays.

Among the places of education are the military college and artillery school, a veterinary school, a seminary for the priests, two royal colleges or lyceums, &c.

Near the Lazzaretto, celebrated by Manzoni, is a Foppone, or Cemetery; another, called Campo Santo, is inside the Porta Tosa; and outside this, is the Polveria, or Powder Magazine. Many barracks are dispersed about the city; the largest of which, after the Castello, is that of 8. Francis in Strada Aquese.

In Piazza di Mercanti is the ancient Town Hall, or Palazzo della Città, and the seat of the Podesta, or Governors. A bit of antiquity, called the Uomo The Mercuto, di Pietra, is in the Corsi de Servi. or Old Market, is near the Foro.

In the neighbourhood are Casellago and its gardens; Casa Simonetta and its Echo, 1 mile; and Montebello, which was Bonaparte's headquarters, 1797. Viareggio is an autumn retreat, in a fine spot.

Among its eminent natives are Cæcilius Stotius, Valerius Maximus, Cardan, Beccaria, Parini, &c. The late well-known Dr. Granville was born here, 1778, of the Bozzi (Bos) family; he was a Granville on his mother's side.

Manufactures.-Silk goods of all kinds, embroidery, cotton prints, goldsmiths' work, and jewellery, artificial flowers, glass, soap, leather, &c., while there is trade in the produce of the country about, as rice, cheese, raw silk, &c. It is noted for its furniture. The plain silks of Lombardy are still the best in Europe. Many resident families have an income of £40,000 or more. Count Annoni derives an income of £2,800, only from Parmesan cheese. Families with more than £5,000 reckon by hundreds. The commerce of Milan has doubled since 1852.

Formerly the aspirations of its inhabitants were embodied in the ignoble rhyme

"Viva Francia, viva Spagna

Basta che se magna."

open to every gentleman of character, whether native or foreign: and if he has a letter of introduction to some one in the city, he need be at no loss how to spend his evenings. Once introduced, he may drop in at a party where every one may be strangers to him, and will meet with a simple and kind reception.

The women of Milan possess the true Lombard style of beauty, fair and gentle, as seen in the Madonnas of Raphael and Leonardo da Vinci; and they have also the secret of dressing well. The middle and lower classes wear black lace veils. Many of the men are stunted and weak.

When the news of Magenta reached Milan, in June, 1859, the people began to barricade the streets leading to the camp of the Austrian general, Kelhemer, in the Piazza Castello; who, however, gave them no trouble, but evacuated the city on the 6th. They then met to demand the restoration of the Fusione, or Act of 1848, by which Lombardy was united to Piedmont. This was done by the Assessori Municipali (their mayor, Count Sebregondi, having run away), from the balcony of the palace, and a deputation was sent to announce the fact to their newly elected sovereign, Victor Emmanuel, on the field of Magenta.

On the 7th June, MacMahon, at the head of the 2nd corps and a magnificent staff, entered Milan, by the Porta Vercellina. He then marched to the field of Melagnano. The two Sovereigns made their entry the day after so early that most of the people were in bed. Louis Napoleon occupied Villa Bonaparte, which had been inhabited by him when a boy, with his mother, Queen Hortense, and by Napoleon I. himself. The Royal Palace was placed at the disposal of Victor Emmanuel, but finding it had not been cleared of property belonging to the late Archduke Maximilian, he rode to the palace of Marquis Busca, one of the richest of the Milanese nobles.

A little while after his entry, Louis Napoleon quietly rode to Porta Romana, with an aide-decamp, unknown to the excited crowd, who, however, recognised him, on his return, and overwhelmed him with such demonstrations of gratitude as quite touched him. From the Villa Bonaparte he issued his famous proclamation. The rough draught of this, in his hand writing, with many corrections, is in the possession of the curate San Martino, at whose house he passed the night after Magenta.

After this, the Emperor and Victor Emmanuel made a triumphal procession through the streets together; and during their stay there was a continual succession of feasts and illuminations. Cavour, who had followed the sovereigns to Milan, became, of course, one of the lions of the day, and his portrait was seen everywhere. Such was the frenzy of public excitement that many persons went mad.

1. From Milan to Lago Maggiore.

Somma... Sesto Calende 364 .25} | Arona .......................... 41

Legnano ..........16 Gallarate

[Branch to Varese] Gallarate (Stat.), the junction for Varese, 37 miles from Milan, for which see Route 12. From Gallarate a line, opened April, 1884, runs to Laveno (page 19) and Luino.

Somma (Stat.)-population, 4,715-near the Ticino, which has an old seat of the Visconti family, in which is a cypress, 24 feet in girth. Here Scipio, the father of Scipio Africanus, was defeated by Hannibal, at the battle of the Ticino, B.C. 218, and was obliged to retreat towards the Po.

Sesto Calende (population, 2,817), at the outlet, at Ticino, from Lago Maggiore. The line ends at Arona (Stat.) Steamers for Baveno, the Borromean Island, Magadino, and other points on the lake. (See Route 8.)

2. Milan to Casale and Asti (page 13).

Miles.

Miles.

Gaggiano............................... 12 Candia Lomelina....414 Casale............ ..50 Moncalvo..............65

Abbiategrasso...... 18

Vigevano............... 24

Asti

Mortara ............... [Branch to Valenza

and Alessandria.]

32

.78

This line effects a junction at Asti with the main line from Turin to Alessandria.

3. Milan to Pavia and Voghera (Route 14).

Locate

Miles. 94

......

22

Miles. [Branch to Cremona.] Voghera

38

Certosa................. 173 Pavia.......... 4. Line up the Brianza, towards Como, &c., to Bovisa, Bruzzano, Paderno, Bovisio, Seveso, Mariano, Lambrugo, Incino (ancient Forum Incini), and Erba (Inn), 1,020 feet high, overlooking the fertile Brianza, and Lake Fusiano,

5. To Saronno and Como, 28 miles, by the Riva Lago line. From Saronno to Varese (page 38) and Laveno, on Lake Como.

6. Milan to San Pietro, Camnago, AlbateCamerlata, and Como, 26 miles.

Inns: Hotel Castello; Il Falcone; Angelo; Hotel Monticello (1 hour from station), in the old Nara Palace, at a fine point of view. (See page 38.)

On the Lambro: population 17,077. Here are a Palace, or royal hunting-seat, built by Piermarini in 1799. in a park; Broletto or Town Hall; a college, hospital, theatre, and an old Cathedral, enlarged in the fourteenth century, which has a front of various coloured marble, much ornamented. On the door is a bas-relief of the founder (595), Q. Theodolinda and her husband. It contains paintings by Guercino, B. Luini, Procaccini, and others; with the celebrated Iron Crown of Lombardy, which was Napoleon placed on his own head, with the warnused at the coronation of Charles V., and which ing, Quai a chi la tocca (Woe to him that touches it). It was again used at the crowning of the Emperor of Austria, in 1838, and was carried off to Vienna, 1859. It rests on a circular rim of iron, said to have been made from a nail of the Saviour's cross, and is covered with gold and precious stones. In the same church is the mummified body of Estore Visconti. Frescoes by Luini at the Madonna Church.

At Monza, the line for Lecco turns off. It passes the Stats. at Arcore (pop., 2,060); Usmate; Cernusco (pop., 5,086), a pretty spot on the Martesana Canal; Olgiate (pop., 2,085); Calolzio and Lecco, as in Route 13.

Before the line reaches Como, it passes Baradello Tower, on a lofty hill, in which Napoleone della Torre, of the Torriani family, Lords of Milan, was imprisoned in an iron cage, by his victorious rival, Visconti. He at last killed himself by dashing his head against the hars. From AlbateCamerlata (Stat.) to

COMO (Stat.),

On the beautiful Lago di Como. Population, 25,560. Hotels: Volta; La Corona; Hotel de Florence; Regina d'Ingilterra; L'Angelo; L'Italia.

An ancient city, formerly of considerable importance, two miles from Camerlata. It now enjoys a considerable trade in silks, woollens, cotton, yarn, and soap. Here are the beautiful Cathedral of 14th-16th centuries, with paintings by Guido and B. Luini; the Broletto or Town Hall, the Theatre, the Piazza Volta and his statue, and the gateways of the city. The Villa' d'Este, once the residence of Queen Caroline, wife of George IV., at Cernobbio, about 3 miles from the town, it is now the Queen of England Hotel. Razegone or the Saw Mountain is in view.

The exquisite Lake of Como, 30 miles by 3 miles, is surrounded, except at the southern extremity, by lofty mountains that run down from the Alps. Bellaggio, a promontory at lua junction of the two arms of the lake and