for the road, is made especially strong to resist the mountain torrents from the Apennines. Old castles on the distant heights.

Sarzana (Stat.), population, 8,964, a bishop's see, is the birth-place of Pope Nicholas V., the founder of the Vatican Library; and was the original seat of the Bonaparte family, which igured here as a branch of the Counts Cadolonghi, before it settled in Corsica. Sarzana, when it came under the power of Genoa, in 1407 (by exchange for Leghorn), was granted to the banking corporation of S. Giorgio, in that city. Besides a heatre, hospital, &c., it contains a handsome narble Duomo, with some fretwork brought from the ruins of Luna-an old Etruscan city up the Magra, which has yielded many pavements, marbles, bronzes, inscriptions, &c., and was a bishop's see till 1204, when it was transferred to Sarzana.

"But hark! the cry is Astur,

And lo! the ranks divide, And the great Lord of Luna

Comes with his stately stride."- MACAULAY. The district, still called Lunigiana, was divided between Modena, Sardinia, and Tuscany.

Cross the River Parmignola, on the old frontier of Massa, or Modena, to

Avenza (Stat.), population, 3,254, which has a fine old castle and a port at the mouth of the Carrone, whence Carrara marble is shipped. Great blocks of this marble, which is the kind most preferred by sculptors, are brought down by immense oxen, noted for their grey and white coloured shining skins, and large, soft, patient eyes. Branch rail to Carrara.

[Carrara (Stat.) A town to the left (population, 11,870), under the purple and red hills, abounds with blocks of white marble, strewn on all sides, and with shops full of ornaments for sale.

In Piazza Alberica is a fountain with a statue of Duchess Beatrice of the Cibo family, who by her marriage in 1741 with the Duke of Modena, carried this little Duchy of 30 square miles of mountain, with that of Massa, into the Este family. It contains a fine Cathedral, marble of course, of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries; Madonna delle Grazie Church with some good marbles in it; S. Giacomo Hospital; and an Academy of Sculpture, founded by Princess Elisa, Napoleon's sister, and provided with casts and medals, placed in her Palace, which she gave up for the purpose.

The white Carrara marble, so called from the old Latin quarrariæ (whence our old English word quarry) is found in inexhaustible quantities in the lower ridges of Monte Sagro and Monte Crestola, near the Rivers Torano, Bedizzano, &c., which unite near Carrara, in the Carone. Within a few miles there are above 500 quarries; those of Cima, Crestola, Palvaccio, Zampone, &c., giving the finest for sculpture. Above 6,000 men are employed in the quarries and water mills by which the blocks are sawn. They are then carried in bullock carts to the water side at Avenza. Above 120,000 tons, in cargoes of 50 tons each, are shipped yearly,

much of it to the United States, where it is in great request. In Roman times this was called Luna marble, that being the nearest place; and many blocks and half-worked marbles prepared for removal to Rome are still lying about, under the name of fantiscritti, from some figures of Jupiter, Bacchus, and Hercules, carved near them, where some ancient Roman visitors have left their names. A variety called bardiglio, is streaked with blue and purple. The Caves and their spars of the purest water, deserve a visit.]

Massa (Stat.), or Massa Ducale (population, 9,000), in the Valley of the Frigido. The head of a Duchy, which with Carrara was incorporated with Modena in the last century. It carries on a trade in marble; and contains a fine old castle, with a Palace formerly inhabited by the Princess Elisa; the Church of S. Pietro, the Mercurio Pillar, and the site only of a cathedral, which the Princess razed to improve the prospect from her seat. Massa has a mild climate and is noted for its melons.

Pass the Castle of Montignoso on the Apennines. Pietra-Santa (Stat.) Population, 11,100. The Roman Lucus Feronia, with two churches and a campanile, and many marble quarries, particularly that of Saravezza, known for its fine grain. The Church of S. Martino has bronzes by Donatello. This town is within the bounds of the extinct Duchy of Lucca; and Lucca is about 15 miles distant by a road through Montramito, but its Baths are about 20 miles east. (See Route 24.)

Viareggio (Stat.), near the sea. A bathing place (population, 5,000), in a fine forest under the Apennines. Hotels: Corona; New York; Grande Bagni di Nerone are remains of Roman baths. Bretagne; and English Church Service. At the

Torre del Lago (Stat.), near the Serchio, which ascends past Lucca, to its baths. Pisa (Stat.) See Route 23.

ROUTE 11. Milan to Gallarate and Lake Maggiore. MILAN (Stat.),

Milano of the Italians, Mailand of the Germans. It gave name to the Milainers or Milliners, and Mail armour, for both of which it was famous.

Hotels:-

Grand Hotel de Milan, the largest first-class hotel of Milan. Great comfort. Highly recommended.

Hotel Cavour, Place Cavour, opposite the public gardens, good accommodation.

Hotel de la Ville, J. Braer, proprietor, well situated, on the Corso Victor Emmanuel.

Hotel de Grande Bretagne. The Guide attached to this hotel is recommended. Grand Hotel Continental.

Grand Hotel Manin, opposite the park.
Hotel de France, 19, Cours Victor Emmanuel.
Hotel Biscone, hotel and pension.

Hotel de l'Europe; Hotel du Lion; Hotel Central. Buffet at the handsome Railway Station.

Cafés. Biffi, Cova, and Gnocchi, in the handsome new Galleria Victor Emmanuel, near the best shops.

It is noted for Milanese cutlets, Milan rice (risotto), and other rice dishes; also mushrooms, &c. The pastry, chocolate, and milk preparations are also noted. Figs, grapes, melons, and other fruits.

Broughams: per course, 1 lira; per hour, 1 lira 50 cents. There is a better kind, numbered red, slightly dearer. Omnibuses: 10 cents. per course; from the railway stations, 25 cents.

Resident English Vice-Consul.

English Church Service.-10, Via Malazzo. English and American Church Service.-8, Via Andegari.

English Bankers.--Ulrich and Co.; Finck and Scherbius, 8, Via Andegari.

Post Office, 20, Via Rastrelli; 36 hours from London. Telegraph, Piazza de' Mercanti.

Railway Stations, near Porta Nuova for Monza Junction; near Porta Tose, or for Treviglio, Padua, Verona, Mantua, and Venice.

Omnibuses from the Duomo meet every train. Private carriages, for Milan and the environs, 16 lire a day.

Valets de Place, 5 to 6 lire.

To

Tram Lines.-Milan to Cagnola, Saronno, and Tradate; and to Fino and Como. To Rho, Legnano, and Gallarate. To Sedriano and Castano. Gorgonzola (noted for its cheese) and Vaprio. Monza and Barzano. To Treviglio and Bergamo. To Melegnano and Lodi. To Binasco and Pavia.

To

The goldsmiths' shops are in the Calle Orefici, and the booksellers' in Contrada di Santa Margherita, and near the Duomo. Houses are shaded from sun and heat by green blinds; and it is desirable when taking a house for a term, to look out one on which the sun shines; otherwise it may be unhealthy.

*Chief Objects of Notice.-The Duomo; St. Ambrogio; St. Carlo; Da Vinci's Last Supper, at the Dominican Priory; Royal Palace; Ambrosian Library; Brera Gallery, and the Sposalizio; La Scala; Arch of Peace; Great Hospital; Old Lazaretto; Viale dei Colli, a fine promenade. The new Victor Emmanuel Gallery, by Mengoni.

Population (1881), 321,839, including the suburbs. Milan is the seat of an archbishop, law-courts, &c., and is a gay and luxurious city, with fine hotels, caffés, theatres, and various institutions for literature, art, and science. It stands at the centre of several roads, tramways, and railways, in the wide, fertile, and well irrigated plain of Lombardy, between the Olona and Lambro, 15 miles from the Po, to which they run. The Consuls M. Marcellus and C. Scipio took it in 221 B.C. from the Insubres in Cisalpine Gaul, and called it Mediolanum, from which comes its present name. Here Constantine, in 313, issued his decree declaring all religions equal before the law.

It was given to Austria 1713; taken by the French 1796; became the head of the Cisalpine Republic, then of Napoleon's kingdom of Italy,

1805, under the Viceroy Eugene Beauharnois, but was restored in 1814 to Austria, after an attempt at independence, which resulted in the massacre of Prina, Napoleon's minister, 20th April, 1813.

The Austrians made it the capital of their Lombardo-Venetian kingdom. Two risings occurred in 1821 and 1848; in the latter case they were driven out after four days' fighting. They came back in 1849, on the 10th of August, the Emperor's birthday. Victor Emmanuel made his entry here August 10th, 1859, after the treaty of Villafranca. Its governor at the annexation was the able and distinguished Massimo d'Azeglio, uncle to the late Italian Ambassador at London. Very few ancient remains have survived these changes; but it is still one of the richest cities in Europe. The snowy Alps are in view.

The noble Duomo and its spires, the grand mark from all sides, stands in the midst of the narrow winding streets of the old city; which is surrounded by the Naviglio Grande Canal, and is an oval space, 1 mile by 1 mile. This canal communicates by the Naviglio di Martesuna with the streams on each side. Beyond it the suburbs, in some parts, stretch to the bastione or ramparts, built 1555, which makes an irregular hexagon between 6 and 7 miles and about 2 miles across. They are well planted with trees, as are the Piazza d'Armi, and the Foro on the N.E., where the line of circumvallation is most broken. The streets, called in the old town contrade (contrada, a street) and calle (calla, a lane), improve in the suburbs, where the best houses are found, and as they widen take the names of corsie and corsi (corsia and corso, a course) not wide but lofty; and at length, in the broadest part, near the gates, that of borgi (borgo, a suburb).

The best streets are Corso Victor Emmanuel, Corso di Porta Venezia, and Via Charles Albert. The Victor Emmanuel Arcade is a cross 640 feet by 345, with shops and statuary. Several streets are paved with pebbles or flagstones, and lighted with gas. Milan is the cleanest city in Italy. The chimneys of many of the houses are disguised under the form of small turrets, castles, and Chinese temples.

The best promenades are on the ramparts, the Borgo di Porta Orientale, and the other Borgi, the Foro, &c. Several caffés and shops are in the Galleria di Cristoferis, a passage or arcade like those at Paris. Most of the open spaces, or Piazze, are irregular; the largest is Piazza del Duomo, from which a new street, called Vittorio Emanuele, is open to the Leonardo da Vinci Piazza; a Loggia Reale, by Menzoni, faces it. That of Piazza Fortuna, near it, has a fountain of red granite with two marble syrens; the Piazza de Mercante fronts the Old Exchange; Piazza St. Fedele, opposite that church, is regular. Piazza Borromeo has a bronze of S. Carlo Borromeo.

The CHURCHES are usually shut from twelve to three. Of all the buildings, the most striking is the marble, cross-shaped

*Duomo or Cathedral, reckoned by some to be the

most remarkable church in Italy, after St. Peter's, at Rome, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is for the most part in the florid Gothic style, with a profusion of spires and niched statues. There are 100 of the former, and 7,000 of the latter, of which 2,400 have been put up in the last twelve years, one of the latest being the statue of Victor Emmanuel. Visitors are recommended to see it first by moonlight, if possible. Though begun by G. G. Visconti, Duke of Milan, as far back as 1386, it is still unfinished, after various additions and alterations from the original design, which seems to be due to H. Ahrler, a German. In fact, it is in a continual state of repair; in terms of a deed under which a certain sum is spent annually upon the edifice. Length, 371 feet; width, 226 feet; height of the aisles, 92 feet; of the nave, 122 feet (about 150 to the vaulting); of the cupola, 197 feet (or 360 feet to the top of the spire). The front is an elaborate piece of work, much broken up by small doors, and many windows, in a Gothicised Roman style, little harmonising with the scale of splendour of the interior. This part was restored in Napoleon's time, and decorated with statues and bas-reliefs. On each side of the middle door are two columns, each of an enormous granite block, from Baveno, 35 feet high, carrying statues of S. Carlo Borromeo (by Monti) and Marchesi. A stained window above contains the Assumption, by Bertini, a modern window painter, who died 1849. The interior, though ill lighted, is vast and imposing, being a clear space from end to end, only interrupted by the great clustered pillars which support the vault. There are fifty-two of them, 69 feet high, 20 feet round the base, and covered with niched figures, foliage, tracery, &c. They divide the body into two aisles, on each side of the nave, and one on each side of the transepts.

The pavement is of chequered marble. There are tombs of archbishops, the Visconti, &c., and two popes, Martin V. and Pius IV. Round the pulpits are bronzes of the four evangelists, and four fathers, by Brambilla. In Pelegrini's choir are seventeen bas-reliefs of great excellence. The bronze tabernacle of the high altar is another work by Brambilla. Here they keep a nail of the true cross, which is carried in procession on the 3rd of May, the anniversary of the great plague of Milan, in which its excellent archbishop, San Carlo Borromeo, figured so worthily. He died in 1584, and his body is preserved here. His rich gold and silver shrine is in a shrine below, where he is seen dressed up in pontifical robes, sparkling with diamonds, and his head resting on a gilded cushion. He was the nephew of Pius IV., and was canonised by his successor; which cost his family so large a sum, that they declined to ask for a similar honour for his cousin, Cardinal Fred. Borromeo, the one celebrated by Manzoni, in the Promessi Sposi.

An inscription at the east end of the cathedral gives a list of the relics belonging to it, among which are Christ's cradle and swaddling clothes; part of the towel with which he wiped his disci

ples' feet: four thorns of his crown; parts of the reed, the cross, the sponge, and the spear; and one of the nails; a piece of Moses' rod; two of Elisha's teeth; and so on.

One of the most popular religious books is the Filotea, published by one of the confessors to the cathedral. It is full of legendary fables and sells by thousands. Every disorder of every part of the human body has a saint, to whom the patient may pray for a cure.-Dr. Wordsworth.

Here also are St. Carlo's statue, and that of St. Ambrose, besides eight pictures, &c., of the events of St. Carlo's life. Behind the choir is a curious anatomical statue of St. Bartholomew, by Agrati, in the act of being flayed.

In the Medici Chapel is a tomb, designed by M. Angelo; built by Pope Paul IV., to his brother. Some of the pictures are worth notice from being on glass. High up is the portrait of the principal architect, with the inscription, "I. O. Antonius Homodeus Venere Fabrice, ML. I., Architectus," in a circle. About 520 marble steps bring us at length (past Brambilla's statues of Adam and Eve) to the gallery round the spire, whence there is a noble view over the whole plain of the Po, as far as Mont Blanc, Mont Rosa, the Stelvio Pass, &c. Charge, to 1 lira. The cathedral is open all day.

"It wants chiaro-scuro, and some of its details, especially in the façade, and the Roman erection on the roof of the nave, greatly impair the effect. But who can describe the interior? After the light and somewhat tawdry decorations of many other Continental churches, this magnificent cathedral, especially when entered from the subterranean passage which leads from the archbishop's palace, produces a powerful impression on the mind, by its vast size, its lofty proportions, its solemn gloom and sublime grandeur, and the rich hues of its stained glass windows. It seems as if the ancient spirit of religion, such as dwelt in Milan in the days of St. Ambrose, loved to linger here. The inscription, which is conspicuous on the rood loft, 'Attendite ad Petram unde excisi estes' (Look unto the Rock whence ye were hewn), is very significant. There are side altars, but not prominent as in many churches."-Dr. Wordsworth.

The large windows at the east end are modern, stained with subjects from the Bible, especially the Revelation, some by Bertini; and replace those which were shattered by the cannonading of 1805, when Napoleon was crowned King of Italy.

The choir has no screen. At the intersection of the nave and transepts are the large ambos or pulpits, from which the gospel and epistle are read. The Ambrosian liturgy, which the Pope has never been able to abolish, is a standing proof of the independence of the Milanese Church. Priests who use the Roman ritual are not allowed to officiate except on very urgent occasions. Catechetical

teaching is carried on every Sunday, and children are taught to read and write in the aisles, a practice enforced by the excellent S. Carlo Borromeo.

In 1859, the day of the Battle of Magenta, Archbishop Ballerini was nominated to the see by the Emperor of Austria; the appointment did not take effect, and Caccia was chosen by the chapter as Vicar General; he afterwards retired to Monza. At the end of 1862 there were thirty-four vacant sees out of the 257 in the new Italian kingdom.

On the 1st June, the national anniversary, or Festa dello Statuto, is celebrated with great splendour.

A Società Ecclesiastica was founded here in 1859, and consists of 200 members, the object of which is to cultivate religious studies, especially those which have a practical influence on the social welfare of the people; but, laudable as it seems, it was denounced by the Ultramontane journals as schismatical and revolutionary.

Santa Maria delle Grazie, in Borgo delle Grazie, attached to the old Dominican Friary (now a barrack), was built 1463-93, by Leonardo da Vinci's patron, Duke Ludovico Il Moro, and has a Gothic nave, with a picturesque cupola added by Bramante, 65 feet diameter, supported by semicircular tribunes, "and which externally and internally is one of the most pleasing specimens of its class to be found anywhere."-Fergusson.

It has frescoes by G. Ferrari, &c., and (in the refectory) the traces of the famous Cenacolo, or *Last Supper of Da Vinci, painted in fresco on the wall, 1497-1500 (some say sixteen years altogether), but now so decayed, partly from subsequent illtreatment, as to be hardly noticeable. The faces of the Saviour and St. Thomas are visible, the latter with a face worse than Judas's. Twelve

copies, however, are extant, the best of which is by Oggioni (1510), at the Royal Academy, London; while the engravings have made the design of it universally known. The great painter established a School of Arts here, and lived on an estate near the Porta Vercellina, close by, given him by the Duke.

*St. Ambrogio (Ambrose), in Piazza di St. Ambrogio, surrounded by a barrack or hospital, built as a convent by Bramante in the fifteenth century. It was built by Archbishop Anspertus in the ninth century, of brick, in a very early Romanesque or Byzantine style (on the site of one founded 387 by St. Ambrose, in honour of two martyrs), and consists of two naves of equal size; one forming a court or Atrium to the other or principal nave, in which is a brass serpent on a granite pillar (said to be the very one put up by Moses in the Wilderness), and a very ancient tomb with curious bas-reliefs. This Atrium, in which the people asked alms and performed penance, is bordered by an arcade, and has many tablets and inscriptions, some of them being Greek mixed with Latin. Here St. Ambrose baptised St. Angelbert, and burst out with the grand Te Deum Laudamus, ascribed to him. Among

the remarkable things to be found in this church are the ancient pulpit; the splendid Shrine (shown for 5 lr.) of gold and silver, a remarkable specimen of metal work (done 835), adorned with inscriptions and coloured reliefs of Augustine's life, &c., and covered with a beautiful canopy; the very old chapel behind his choir, and its twelve curious Byzantine mosaics on a gold ground.

The Ambrosian service book is of vellum, very ancient, in six folio volumes, richly illuminated, with the musical notes. The large marble ambo or pulpit is adorned with a bas-relief of an agape or love feast. Opposite this is a portrait of St. Ambrose on a pilaster. Over the altar is a mosaic of the Saviour, with a Greek inscription, signifying "Jesus Christ, the King of Glory." By his side are the martyrs, Gervasius and Protasius, whose bodies were discovered in 386. Some mosaic illustrations of the life of St. Ambrose are seen in the choir; and the archbishop's chair and canons' stalls are in the apse behind the altar, near a mosaic of the Baptism of St. Augustine, in 387.

One of the chapels is dedicated to St. Ambrose's sister, Marcellina, who is buried with her brother (who died Easter day, 397) under the high altar. He was Metropolitan over eighteen Lombardy bishops. Another chapel is called St. Satyrus, after Ambrose's brother, who was buried here close to St. Victor, in a sarcophagus, which was found in 1861.

The paintings, &c., contained in the side chapels are G. Ferrari's Virgin; Lanciani's St. Ambrose on his death-bed; Pacetti's statue of Santa Marcellina; Borgognone's fresco of Christ and the two Angels, &c.

The Latin hymns of St. Ambrose have been lately edited by Biraghi, one of the prefetti of the di Sant' Ambrogio."-Dr. Wordsworth. Ambrosian library, under the title of "Inni Sinceri

S. Alessandro, in Corso degli Amadei (1602), has two large statues in the front, and a richly ornamented interior, with paintings on the cupola, by Campi, Procaccini, and other artists.

Santa Maria presso S. Celso (near S. Celso), in that Borgo, opposite the Military College, founded by the Viscontis, 1491, shows a very beautiful front, in which are two sibyls, by Fontana; and an excellent Adam and Eve at the entrance, by Laurenzi. Inside, among other work, are Appiqui's frescoes, and Fontana's statue of the Virgin; with a rich altar, &c.

S. Vittore al Corpo, in that stradone, behind a barrack, was rebuilt 1560, by Alessi, on the site of one from which St. Ambrose shut out the Emperor Theodosius; with pictures by Procaccini, Bellon,

&c.

Santa Maria della Passione, in that street, near Porta Tosa, is rather a fine church, 320 feet long, with a triple portal, three naves, and a dome 106 feet high. Note, the tomb of the founders (Archbishop Birago and his brother), by A. Fusina, 1498; paintings of the Crucifixion, by Campi; the Lord's