and gold at the further end. Inscriptions in Greek, &c., accompany the mosaics. A modern roof replaces the old one, which, with its mosaics, was destroyed in 1811. Among the monuments are tombs of the founder (who died 1189), and his successor, William the Bad.

From the cathedral or the convent terrace there is a splendid view over Palermo, the Conca d'Oro, and the sea. Captain Forbes says, "There is a fascination and grandeur in the beauties of the Bay of Palermo, which Naples does not possess. On the west side is the Conca d'Oro; and the cliffs of Monte Pellegrino are crowned by the shrine of Santa Rosalia. A vast amphitheatre of mountains backs the bay; their deep blue peaks blending with the lofty spine which traverses the northern shore of Sicily." This convent is richly endowed, and has a fine cloister resting on Gothic arches and 216 Corinthian pillars, coupled together; a library and paintings by Novelli (or Morrealese), a native artist, and Velasquez of Palermo. There is a sparkling fountain with a very Oriental look. Women are not admitted. About 2 miles farther is another Benedictine house, the

Convent of S. Martino, called Delle Scale, from the stairs-like ascent to it, up the hills, through gardens of figs, aloes, olives, &c. It was founded for persons of noble birth. Women are not admitted here. It contains a library, cabinets of antiquities, medals, &c., with some good paintings of Sicilian and other masters. The royal park of Boca di Falco is near this convent. At Piani dei Greci, 15 miles from Palermo, up the winding road to Corleone, is a Greek colony, with a church, &c. *Grotto of Santa Rosalia, to the north-west of the city, is one of the great sights of the quarter; standing on the face of Monte Pellegrino, which, under the name of Ercta, was defended by Hamilcar against the Romans for thirteen years, in the first Punic War. It is an abrupt precipitous mass, something like Gibraltar, 1,980 feet high. A series of steps, called Qa Scala, leads up to the convent and Church, which cover the cave in which William the Good's niece, Santa Rosalia, lived and died. Here her body was found and carried to Palermo during the plague of 1624. Her marble statue is adorned with a golden robe. To this sanctuary there is a procession at her festa, from 11th to 15th July.

The Favorita Villa, belonging to the king, and Villa Belmonte, are near Monte Pellegrino. The former stands in a park well stocked with game; and has a fine view of Palermo and the Lipari Islands. Procure at the hotel a card of admission.

On Monte Catalfano, above this, are the remains of the Phoenician town of Soluntum.

Garibaldi and the Events of 1860.-In the early part of this year an insurrection broke out in Palermo, prematurely, in the Convent of La Gancia, which was betrayed to Miniscalco, the minister of police, by a monk, and stifled: but 10,000 insurgents were called into existence, who spread the flame of revolt over the island. The garrison was increased to 28,000, and the city placed under siege. When Garibaldi heard of it, he determined to turn it to

account. "I never advised this Sicilian movement," he said, "but since our brethren are fighting, it is my duty to go to the rescue." His motto was, "Italy and Victor Emmanuel! After his landing at Marsala, and the victory of Calatafimi, he marched to Palermo with his handful of veterans, assisted by the inexperienced squadri or volunteers. He found the two roads on this side (the southwest), defended by 6,000 Neapolitans, posted at Monreale, and 4,000 at Parco. He feigned a retreat to Corleone, and by a flank movement of 27 miles through difficult passes in the hills, he entered Palermo on the east side; and taking the royal troops by surprise, he caried Porta di Termini and the lower parts of the city; the fleet firing on the town from the harbour. By night Garibaldi reached his head-quarters in Piazza del Pretorio, and had occupied all the town, except the Royal Palace and the Mole. He also took possession of the Bank, with 14 million in cash.

General Lanzi, the Neapolitan commander, continued to bombard the town for several days from the Castello, or Citadel, and at last only ceased firing by the intervention of Admiral Mundy, of H.M.S. Hannibal, when Garibaldi had not nine cartridges a man lert. This armistice led to nothing; but Garibaldi took the opportunity to construct barricades, and the bombardment was renewed. The squadri, or armed volunteers, were led to the attack by Garibaldi's chaplain, Father Pantaleo, with a sabre in one hand, and a crucifix in the other. Garibaldi was continually exposed to showers of balls and shells. At length he sent word to Lanzi that he had 200 prisoners, and that one should be shot for every shell fired by the garrison. On the 30th, Lanzi proposed to negotiate on the English Admiral's quarter-deck; and the day after a convention was signed, and followed by an indefinite prolongation of hostilities. On 7th June, Palermo was evacuated by the Royalists, twenty-six days after Garibaldi's arrival in Sicily.

About 1,300 shells and shot had been thrown into the town by the citadel and fleet; a whole district, 1,000 yards long by 100 wide, was in ashes; the Carini and Bordanaro Palaces were burnt; Santa Catarina, Martorana, Santa Maria Incoronata, and other convents were ruined; and the atrocities of the Neapolitans were reported by Admiral Mundy to be "frightful." After gutting the Royal Palace, and out of mere spite burning what they could not carry away, they embarked on the 19th for Messina. Garibaldi lost 400 of his veterans in the contest, but he was joined by 2,500 men under Colonel Medici and Major Corte.

Garibaldi was at Palermo again in 1862, in spite of the government, who disavowed his ill-advised projects against Rome. He gave a toast, "Rome or death, but Rome with Victor Emmanuel," and marched hence with 2,000 followers to Catania and Aspromonte, where he was captured.

About 15 miles north-north-west of Palermo is Ustica, a volcanic island, about 5 miles in circuit, with traces of lava, basalt, scoria, &c. Population, 1,200. It has a fort built for defence against the Turkish corsairs. Steamer once a week.

From

The line in construction from Termini along the coast to Messina has now reached Cefalù Porta Felice to

Ficarazzi (Stat.), 5 miles; and thence to Bagheria (Stat.), or Bagaria, where many of the wealthy inhabitants live. Population, 10,977. Here are Villa Butera, with its hermitages and wax figures; and Villa Palagonia, once noted for some eccentric statues in its grounds.

Trabia (Stat.), near Villa Trabia.

Termini (Stat.) or Termini Imerese, 22 miles or 37 chil. by rail from Palermo. Population, 22,733. In a pleasant spot, overlooking the sea, is some miles from the ancient Thermæ Himerenses, or Baths of Himerus, at the mouth of the River Termini, which flows down from Monte S. Calogero (or S. Caloiru), a mountain in the interior range, 2,670 feet high. The Baths of mineral waters, from which it took its origin, are still used.

The ancient Greek city was destroyed by Hannibal, to revenge the death of Hamilcar; and the modern town suffered from the French in 1337. The churches and convents contain mosaics and pillars from the old Roman city (which succeeded the Greek one), and several inscriptions, medals, terra cottas, &c., are in the Museum of the Casa Communale, or Town Hall. There are remains also of a Roman amphitheatre, of the Aqua Cornelia Aqueduct, 4 miles long, and some tombs. Tunny fish, anchovies, sardines, and the best wheat in the island, are among its productions. Here the Rail to Girgenti strikes inland as follows, the distances being from Palermo:

Miles. Acquaviva Platani 62 Sutera 65 Campofranco......... 67 Comitini Inferiore 74 Aragona-Caldare 78 [Line to Canicatti, &c., page 288]. Girgenti 84 Porto Empedocle... 90

...

Cefalù (Stat.)-pop., 11,183-the ancient Cephallis; of which several fragments, such as columns,

mosaics, &c., are to be seen in the Matrice Cathedral, a Gothic structure, built by Roger of Sicily, in gratitude for his deliverance from shipwreck, 1131. It is 230 feet by 90 feet, and has two conspicuous west towers. Good oil is produced. Some miles inland is Monte Madonia, nearly 6,000 feet high.

S. STEFANO. Hence to Santa Agata the road passes through forests of oak.

BROLO (population, 1,079), on a cliff over the sea, surmounted by an old castle. About 7 miles to the left is Cape d'Orlando. The Volcano and the other Lipari Islands are visible.

PATTI (population, 6,930), has a Cathedral, which holds the tombs of Roger's two wives. Here Garibaldi landed 18th July, 1860, in his march to Milazzo. From this place three active volcanoes are seen-Etna, Volcano, and Stromboli.

OLIVERI, a small village noted for its olives. Here are an old castle of Prince Oliveri, and the Hermitage of Madonna del Tonnaro, on a high rock; so called from the ancient city of Tyndaris, founded 394 B.C., and destroyed by the Saracens. Parts of its walls, &c., are left; and part fell with the cliffs, on which it was perched, into the sea.

BARCELLONA (population, 13,948), near the River Cantone. Six miles from here is

Milazzo, or MELAZZO (population, 12,044), on the neck of a granite peninsula, which stretches out north, 4 miles long and to 1 mile broad, and 600 to 700 feet high. It terminates in Cape Milazzo or Blanco, near which Duilius obtained a naval victory over the Carthaginians; which gives name to the Duilio in the Italian navy. The town is well built on the strip below the Norman Castle, which commands it and the Isthmus.

Here Garibaldi fought a successful battle with the Neapolitans, in 1860, which secured the possession of Sicily. The Royalist General, Bosco, a Sicilian by birth, who held the town, had 6,500 picked men and twelve guns, opposed to 4,400 and three guns, on Garibaldi's side. Colonel Peard (,'Garibaldi's Englishman"), Colonel Dunne, and Major Wyndham took part in the fight.

Colonel Peard commanded the picciotti, or undisciplined riff-raff of the native volunteers, who had never been under fire, and were unwilling to face the enemy. Peard brought them up with his sword, hitting away right and left; and when this was not enough, he laid hold of them and tumbled them over the walls, heels over head, right in on the Neapolitans, who were so scared at the sight that they took to their heels crying "Volano, volano,"They fly, they fly. Bosco fought well, and Garibaldi bought his victory with the loss of 800 of his small force. He himself was nearly cut down by a sudden dash of cavalry, but was saved by Missiri's revolver. Being asked to write a bulletin of the battle he said, "The best thing you can say is, that the fight began in the morning, and by the evening we had the town." Bosco was driven into the fort, which being shelled by the war steamer Tuskori or Veloce (which had come over to Garibaldi), gave in the next day.

Captain Forbes relates that Garibaldi while waiting for the assault, finding his shirt soiled from fighting, washed it in a brook, hung it on a bush, and remained sitting barebacked while he eat his meal of fruit and bread, and smoked his cigar. When his shirt was dried he went on board the Tuskori, to direct the fire on the fortress. quantity of ammunition, thirty guns, and other arms in the castle, proved a most valuable prize.

A

Here Count Litta met Garibaldi, with a letter from Victor Emmanuel, urging him not to land in Calabria, but to be content with Sicily; advice which Garibaldi respectfully declined to follow.

The road from Milazzo follows the coast to Spadafora (population, 3,146) and Gesso; and then winds over the Pelorus hills to Messina. From the top of the road, 1,610 feet high, there is a very fine prospect of land and sea. These hills, which are shelly limestone on a base of granite, terminate in Faro Point or Cape Peloro, where there was formerly a Temple of Neptune, now replaced by a tower and lighthouse.

MESSINA (Stat.)

Population (1881), 126,497, with suburbs.
Hotels: La Vittoria; Trinacria; Venezia; di
Parigi; l'Europa.

Resident British Vice-Consul.
English Church Service, on Sunday.
Bankers.-Messrs. Cailler and Co.

Steamers to Catania, Palermo, &c., and to Reggio, Naples, Marseilles, and Malta. Rail to Catania and Syracuse. (See Bradshaw's Continental Guide.)

Messina, at first called Zanklé (a sickle) by the Greeks, from the shape of its harbour, afterwards changed to Messene, when a colony of Messinians from the Peloponnesus settled here. The Romans made it their capital of the island. Etna is 50 miles distant.

Though an old town Messina has suffered so much from earthquakes, that it has few signs of antiquity, most part of it having been rebuilt since the earthquake of 1783, which swallowed up 40,000 persons in the city and its environs. The latter comprise the Ringo, Boccetta, S. Leo, Zaera, and Porta di Legni. It is an archbishop's see and the head of a province, and forms an amphitheatre resting on the shore and half way up the hill behind it. From this it looks on the harbour and the beautiful Faro, or Strait of Messina which is here 4 miles wide to the opposite main iana of Calabria. It is traversed by five small fumare, or water courses, and two main streets-the Corso and Strada Vittorio Emanuele, with the sea at one end and Monte Pelorus at the other

A Quay of handsome-looking nouses, c.ose to the water is the chief promenade, whence a fine panoramic view is obtained of the Aspromonte Mountains and the sea, terminated on the north by Faro Point, at the north-east corner of Sicily, 6 miles distant. The Flora Gardens is another favourite resort. Near this quay stood the Palazzata, built by Emanuele Filiberto, of Savoy, and razed in 1783. The Harbour, 2 miles in circuit, is

bounded on the south-east by the semicircular strip of sand (called Terra Nova), which gave the town its first Greek name. Here are the Citadel, Lighthouse, and Castle of S. Salvatore.

The Charybdis, or whirlpool of the old poets, is near this point, according to some writers, being about 12 miles from Scylla on the Italian shore (p.272); opposite, where the Faro is narrowest. Two other but some place it at Cape Peloro, immediately forts-Gonzaga and Castellaccio-overlook the town. A Pier, 800 paces long, protects the basin within the harbour. Large quantities of pescespada, or swordfish, are caught here in May and June with the harpoon, the water being of the most transparent clearness." It is also noted for its morena or eels, its fields of white clover, its beautiful walks, and prospects. Living is cheap; the houses are large and good; and it has greatly improved since the annexation; robbers have been put down, and schools, gas, &c., established.

On the quay is a Fountain of Neptune, supported by two monsters, for Scylla and Charybdis, by Montorsoli. In the Piazza della Annunziata is a bronze of John of Austria, by Calamech, a native artist. A statue of Ferdinand II., in a square then named after him, was pulled down in 1860. The Cathedral Square has Serpotta's bronze statue of Charles II. on horseback, and a Fountain by Montorsoli (1547), surrounded by mythological sculptures.

The Cathedral, built by Roger and his son Ferdinand, was originally Gothic, but has been spoiled by frequent restorations. It has a detached campanile; and is cased in black and white marble, and ornamented with mosaics, bas-reliefs, and paintings. Some good carvings surround the middle one of its three doors. It contains twenty pillars from a more ancient building; a high altar adorned with precious stones; and a pulpit carved by Gagini. They boast here of a sagra littera, or autograph Letter of the Virgin, translated into Greek, by St. Paul, from the original Hebrew in which it was written, in answer to a communication from the Messinians. It is dated "ex Hierosolymis anno filii nostri XLII," and is believed to be the invention of C. Lascaris, the founder of the library here; but its authenticity has been stoutly defended by the Jesuit, Melchior Inchofer, in a solemn folio, 1629. A festival in its honour is celebrated 5th June.

The Crocifero, S. Giovanni Decollato, and S. Giuseppe Churches, contain paintings by M. A. Caravaggio. That of S. Stefano has paintings by P. de Caravaggio, and the graves of the Frenchmen who were massacred at the Sicilian Vespers. The Church of

S. Francesco d'Assisi, rebuilt 1721, has a basrelief by Gagini; a St. Francis receiving the Stigmata, by the father of Antonello da Messina; and the remains of Frederic III. of Aragon, buried under an ancient sarcophagus.

S. Domenico has a marble Virgin, by Calamech; a bas-relief by Gagini; and a Nativity, by A.

Riccio (about 1570)—an artist who disposed of a freespoken critic on this work, by shooting him.

Madonna della Scala, rebuilt in the fourteenth century, is a mixture of the Saracen and Norman. Nunziata de Catalani is an ancient mosque converted into a church, long before the twelfth century.

S. Gregorio, attached to a nunnery which com mands a fine view, has five pictures, by Antonello da Messina.

Santa Maria de Graffeo, is the church or cathedral of the Greek Archpriest of Sicily. Here is a bas-relief by Della Robbia, with a Library of Greek MSS., &c., founded by C. Lascaris.

At the Capuchin Church, on Monte de' Capucini, outside the town, is a Nativity, by M. A. Caravaggio. This is also a fine point of view.

The University has a Library of 20,000 volumes, and includes a Museum and Picture Gallery, the latter unimportant. Other buildings are the Dogana, the Archbishop's Palace, Palace of the Senate, College for Clerical Students, two Theatres, Hospital, Loggia or Exchange, Arsenal, &c. Giuvara, the Turin architect, was a native of Messina.

The Vara festival, when the Assumption and the victory of Count Roger over the Saracens are observed, takes place 15th August.

The Fata Morgana (i.e., Sea Fairy), otherwise the mirage, is observed here occasionally, when a particular state of the atmosphere over the sea brings distant objects into view, or places them in a distorted and inverted position.

At Faro Point, the Strait is only 3,300 yards wide, but very deep; and the current runs strong, especially with a southerly wind. The old kingdom of the Two Sicilies was called "Dominij di quà dal Faro," and "Dominij di là dal Faro," i.e., the dominions on this side of the Faro (Naples) and that side of the Faro (Sicily).

In 1860, Garibaldi, after the convention with Naples, made Messina the base of his operations against the mainland. Fathers Gavazzi and Pantaleo helped the cause by preaching in the open air. Two of the General's attendants were ecclesiastics-Gusmaroli, who had served as chaplain to the Mantua Volunteers, and afterwards fought against the French at Rome, in 1849; and Froscianti, a Capuchin friar. Faro Point was the head-quarters of his flotilla of fishing boats for crossing over to Calabria.

Here Captain Forbes, who joined as an amateur, found Garibaldi in a little room like a cabin, with a trestle bed, two stools and a box, no table, a sword on one nail, and a spare shirt and trousers on another. The visitor sat on a stool, while his host took a corner of the bed. On the 8th August he sent Missiri to surprise Altafiumara, a strong well-built fort, opposite Faro, with 200 picked men. They failed to take it, but got on to Aspromonte which overhangs Reggio, spreading the revolution; and were joined by 2,000 Calabrians. The King of Naples was so alarmed that he sent a mission to Turin; and a proposal was also made secretly to Garibaldi offering him the use of

town destroyed by Nicias, and the birth-place of the beautiful courtezan Lais, who became one of his captives.

Following the road, a prospect is obtained over the Bay of Castellammare (Stat.), and of the hills beyond it, extending to Capo S. Vito, which is marked by a castle-looking church on the top.

Alcamo (Stat.), which the Sicilians call Arcamu, is a Saracen town (population of the Commune, 37,700), as its name indicates, founded in the ninth century. It is a long street, of churches, convents, and red brick houses, having a gloomy Moorish look, and stands under Monte Bonifacio. Calatafimi (population, 10,000) was the only town on the island, except Sperlinga, which spared the French inhabitants in the massacre of the Sicilian Vespers. Ruins of Saracen, Norman, and Spanish buildings. Here Garibaldi obtained his first victory over the Royal troops on 15th May, 1860, on his advance from Marsala.

To the north of this are remains of the Greek city of Segeste or Egeste, which, for its fidelity to the Romans in the Punic wars, was presented by Scipio with a celebrated colossal statue of Ceres. The pro-consul Verres took it away, and this was one of the charges brought against him by Cicero, In Verrem. Segeste was destroyed by the Saracens in the ninth century. It has some good sulphur springs. There are remains of the walls, and of a Theatre (with twenty rows of steps) of the ancient city, in a perfectly solitary spot among the hills; but the most remarkable relic is a Temple of Ceres, or Diana, which stands facing them across the valley. It is in the Doric style, 175 feet by 73, and each of its thirty-six columns is 28 feet high, and still in good preservation.

To visit Segeste and Selinunto (page 282), leave Palermo by early morning train, have a carriage to meet you at Alcamo-Calatafimi Station (innkeeper will telegraph); the drive takes two hours, and then walk, or ride, one hour. Return to station for afternoon train to Castelvetrano. Next day drive to Selinunto, allowing several hours for the temple, and return to Palermo by afternoon train. If ladies in the party, telegraph also for horses for the final ascent to Segeste.

To the right of the road, near Trapani, is MONTE S. GIULIANO (pop., 3,085), the ancient Eryx, on which is the Madonna di Trapani, a much venerated marble statue, brought from Cyprus.

Trapani (Stat.), pop., 32,020, under Mons Eryx, is the ancient Drepanum (a scythe), a fortified and comparatively well-built town. Hotels: Cinque Torri; Leon d'Oro. It has several churches; a Capuchin Convent, containing the mummies of deceased brethren; a Public Library or Biblioteca Fardeliana, in the Town Hall, which is a handsome building, faced by statues of Philip V. and Victor Amadeus; a College; several Palaces, and a Fort. It stands on a peninsula facing Farignana and other islands of the gates group, and behind it rises the mountain, 2,200 feet high, once crowned by the

famous Temple of Venus Erycina, which rivalled in splendour that of Paphos, and was imitated by Another at Rome. The Convent and Village of S. Giuliano occupy the site of Eryx, which Hamilcar destroyed, and then moved its inhabitants to Drepanum, on the sea-shore below, where Anchises died, according to Virgil, who styles the coast "illætabilis." There are no remains of it, but Venus's pigeons still haunt the neighbourhood. Near the prison and the pits, called Pozzo di Venere, there is a magnificent prospect. The Harbour of Trapani is a good one, and is guarded by the Columbara Tower to the west. Good sumach, salt, tunny, anchovies, and coral are among the products; and it has a reputation for making good cameos.

FAVIGNANO (ancient Egusa), the largest of the Ægades or Egates, now Egadi Islands, a group belonging to the Pallavicini family of Genoa, is 6 miles long, and about 10 miles from the coast. The prison of Santa Caterina crowns the top of its highest hill, 1,200 feet above sea. Tunny fish are caught here, and the fata morgana is sometimes seen. Here the Romans defeated Hannibal in a sea

fight, and ended the second Punic war 201 B.C. LEVANZO (ancient Buccina) is about 3 miles long, and 8 miles from the land. It is hilly, and produces corn, wine, and oil. MARETTIMO (or Hiera), about 25 miles distant, is another state prison, with a hilly surface.

MARSALA (Stat.)

Hotels: Leone; Trinacria.

Pop., 40,255, with suburbs. A bishop's see, near Capo Boëo, and a small river on the site of Lilybæum; now the depôt for Marsala wine. The old port, from which Scipio embarked for the second Punic war, was destroyed by Don John of Austria, in the sixteenth century, to keep the pirates out of it; and a new harbour was made in 1806 for the wine trade. It is sandy, but sheltered by the island of S. Panteleo or Longa, on which was the Carthaginian city of Motya, which was besieged and destroyed by Dionysius of Syracuse 397 B.C., when the catapult was used for the first time. Here Dr. Schliemann discovered remains of a

wall and two gates, with pottery-some Phœnician, rough and unpainted; some Greek, and beautifully painted. Traces of aqueducts and tombs remain at Marsala, and the Town Hall has a Punic inscription from Motya. It is 90 miles to Cape Bon, in Africa.

Resident British Vice-Consul.

Marsala wines came into notice in 1802, when Nelson introduced them into the fleet. There are six wine stores here, four of which are English houses. Woodhouse's, the largest, looks like a long, low castle, and as many as 20,000 pipes are kept in stock. "The vineyards extend along the coast for about 24 miles, and 12 miles inland. The soil is very similar to that of Xerez, an absorbent spongy substance, loose, always fresh and open, not caking. An impression prevails that Marsala is grown on a volcanic soil, and has a sulphureous flavour, but there is no sulphur within 50 miles of the places