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as there may be some difficulty in obtaining change, even for English sovereigns, at the smaller places. Post-office, Piazzo Carlo Alberto. Telegraph, Via del Telegrafo.

British Chapel, near the old English Cemetery; service at 11 a.m., and in the afternoon.

Scotch Presbyterian Church, near the old English Cemetery; service at 11 a.m. and 6 p.m. English Consul.-A. P. Inglis, Esq. Resident American Consul.

Commission Agents and Bankers.-Macbean & Co. English and American Bankers.-Messrs. Maquay, Offices, 7 and 8, Via Borra.

Conveyances.-Railroad to Pisa, Pontedera, and Florence. Steamers almost daily, during the seasor, to Civita Vecchia, Naples, and Sicily, Genoa, Nice, and Marseilles.

Leghorn stands on a plain on or near the site of Portus Herculis, or Liburni, and was founded by the Florentines (to whom it was ceded by Genoa in 1421), upon the decay of Porto Pisano. Being comparatively modern, it is regularly built, with wide-paved streets. The west part, near the harbour, called Nuova Venezia, is traversed by canals into the Arno, leading up to the merchants' warehouses, and the old magazine, &c. A principal street, the Via Victor Emmanuel, runs from the harbour to the Pisa Gate, across the Piazza d'Armi, at the middle of the town, in which stands the Duomo and Palazzo del Governo. It is about two miles round. exclusive of Borgo Cappucini and other suburbs. It is lit with gas, and supplied with water by an aqueduct from Colognole, made 1792.

Leghorn is a porto franco, or free port, so called; where goods may be landed and exported without paying duty; it is a great nest of smuggling; and, as might be expected, the shops are numerous and well supplied. The English are liked, and their language is not unknown to the natives, who, as a class, are industrious, peaceable, and tolerant. Besides many English, French, American, and Greek residents, here are found the descendants of Jews and Moors expelled from Spain, and of refugees and traders from other na ions, invited to settle here by the liberal policy of Cosmo I., Ferdinand I., and their successors, who created it a free port, and steadily favoured its progress. From 1808 to 1814, it was almost annihilated by Napoleon's continental system; but since that period it has recovered.

There is an old or inner Harbour for smaller

vessels, protected by a Molc, half a mile long, to the lighthouse at the end; besides a new or outer harbour protected by a Breakwater begun by the Austrians and lately finished. Elephants tusks

were found in the soil near the Docks, in 1882. Large craft lie inside this or anchor outside in the Roads. Here Lord Keith's flagship, the Queen Charlotte, took fire in 1800, when 700 out of 850 men were burnt or drowned. Near the Darsena or basin, in the inner harbour, is Giovanni dell' Opera's large statue of Ferdinand I., surrounded

by a group of four Turkish slaves, by Tacca. There are also extensive lazarettos, and a prison.

Tre Piazza dei Due Principi is so called from the statues of Ferdinand I. and III. and Leopold II., which stand here. Royal Palace; Town Hall. The old Torre Rossa, or Red Tower, with its lion for a weathercock, is the only piece of antiquity here.

Leghorn is a bishop's see, and has a Duomo or Cathedral, built by Vasari, with a front designed by Inigo Jones, who travelled in Italy in the early part of his career, and imported the Italian style of Palladio into England. It has paintings by Ligozzi, Cigoli, and Empoli. There are several other Churches as Santa Maria Virgine, S. Domenico, S. Giovanni, &c., all adorned with marbles; an English chapel and cemetery; a Dutch church and cemetery, laid out with flowers; a handsome Synagogue, richly ornamented; two Greek churches, with some curious paintings: Arrhenian church; Maronite church; Theatre and Opera House.

The English Cemetery, on the ramparts, contains the graves of Smollett, with an epitaph by his friend, Dr. Armstrong, the poet, and of Francis Horner, with a likeness by Chantrey on his marble tomb. Smollett wrote his "Humphrey Clinker"

here.

Leghorn having a good mild climate, is frequented for bathing in summer, and also for its sulphur waters at Pozzolenti and Montenero, outside the walls. The Montenero Hills, near the springs, are covered with Villas of the merchants, who reside here; and command fine views of the sea and the islands of Gorgona, &c. At the monastery on the summit is a miraculous portrait of the Madonna, about six centuries old. Victor Emmanuel landed here in 1860, after the annexation of Central Italy, and his progress hence to Florence and Piacenza was one long triumph.

There is a great trade carried on in silk, oil, straw hats, iron (from Elba), alabaster, wine, spirits, anchovies, coral, &c., besides general commodities. Government tobacco factory here.

Routes. By rail to Pisa, Lucca, Empoli, Siena, Florence, Cecina, Saline, Follonica, &c.; by steamer to Genoa, 12 hours; Marseilles, 26 hours; Civita Vecchia, 12 hours. (See Bradshaw's Continenta! Guide).

From Leghorn the railway bends to the north, and then turns south to

Colle Salvetti (Stat.) Population, 7,448. Junction of the line from Pisa. Followed by Fauglia and Orciano (Stat.)

Acquabona (Stat.), near the River Fine.

Cecina (Stat.), on the River Cecina. Here are smelting works for iron from Elba, and a branch railway turns inland up the river to Saline and Volterra.

[It is 18 miles long; three trains daily. stations are-

San Martino, 5 miles.
Casino di Ferra, 5 miles.

The

Ponte Ginori, 44 miles; and

Saline (Stat.) (3 miles), close to the Moje salt works and brine springs. These are a government monopoly, and produce a revenue of nearly £100,000. About four miles north-west is

VOLTERRA, on the site of Volaterræ,

One of the most ancient and interesting cities of Etruria, on a hill about 1,800 feet high, composed of soft marl and tufa, in which the ancient sepulchres were excavated, and whence so many Etruscan urns have been obtained. The hill commands an extensive view over the Maremma (or marsh land of the coast) of Monte Catini and its copper mines, and of a volcano in that direction. Population, 13,090.

Volterra is made up of narrow streets and many tower-looking houses, and is inclosed by walls, which are contained within the circuit of the first

Etruscan walls. Of these there are some remains in the shape of massive uncemented blocks at Porta de Diana, and an arched gateway at Porta dell' Arco, having three heads on it, in good preservation. On the north side is a fort, or

Citadel, built 1343 by the Duke of Athens. It contains the Mastio, or Maschio Tower, an old state prison of the Dukes of Tuscany, in which Lorenzini, who was confined here (1682-93) by Cosmo III., wrote his work on geometry.

The Palazzo Pubblico, the old seat of the Podestà, when Volterra was a republic, is of the thirteenth century, and has a high tower, in which P. Inghiarami, the Capitano, and his party, were suffocated (1472) in an insurrection.

Here are the public Library and a Museum of Antiquities, including the Guarnacci collection of coins, bronzes, urns, MSS. The antiquities are chiefly Etruscan; as gold ornaments, gems, bronzes, coins, candelabra, vases, &c., in terra cotta, but especially Urns, or sarcophagi, to the number of 550, in which the other relics were placed, along with the ashes of the dead body after burning. These urns are of tufa and alabaster-rarely of terra cotta, and have been found in the sepulchres, or Ippogei, cut in the rock on which the city stands.

The entrance to each vault is down steps, to a doorway closed by a large stone, and having an upright stone or cippus placed before it, bearing an inscription. The urns were ranged on steps rising one above another along the sides of the vault, or piled up in the middle round a column. As many as forty to fifty urns have been found in one cave. The urns have a lid, which sometimes rises like the roof of house; they are carved with bas-reliefs of mythological subjects, occasionally gilt and coloured, and have the names of ancient Etruscan or Roman families inscribed on them.

Alabaster carving is the chief business here. The Cathedral was founded 1120, enlarged by Niccolò da Pisa, 1254, and restored 1574. Among its paintings are Domenichino's Conversion of St. Paul; S. di Tito's Resurrection of Lazarus; F. Lippi's Virgin and Child; Volterrano's Virgin,

and his St. Joseph; and B. Gozzolio's frescoes of the Virgin. In St. Octavian's Chapel is Settignano's statue of the saint (1525).

The Baptistery of S. Giovanni is an octagon, built 1283, on the site of a Roman temple. The fonts are by Sansovino (1502).

S. Lino's Conventual Church, founded 1480, by Massei, a theologian, contains his tomb and statue, by Mino da Fiesole, with some other statues by Staggi.

Casa Ricciarelli was the birthplace of Daniele da Volterra, a native of this town. and a painter, who assisted M. Angelo at the Vatican.

About 7 miles west of Volterra are the Monte Catini and La Cava Copper Mines, producing 3,000 tons yearly, most of which is sent to England; and Monte Massi, 1,900 feet high.

From Moje, on the road to Marsa, about 10 miles south, is RIPOMERANCIO, or Pomerance, near the Lagoni, or borax lakes of Monte Cerboli and Larderello, which takes name from its founder. an enterprising Frenchman, the late Count Larderel, who established works here in 1818. The hot vapour itself which issues from the soil is turned to account in the manufacture of boracic acid, which is exported to England for glass-making, &c. About 300 men are employed at the works.]

Leaving Cecina Station, on the main line, the rail comes to

Bambolo (Stat.), the nearest to the borax works above mentioned, about 15 miles east.

S. Vincenzo (Stat.) Here a road parts off close along the coast, towards Elba, passing

[POPULONIA (6 miles), close to an old castle and the remains of the Etruscan town and port of Pupluna. Further on is PIOMBINO (6 miles), a small town (population, 2,178), once the head of a principality, at the corner of a peninsula, which is 6 miles from the nearest point of the

ISLAND OF ELBA,

And 14 miles from Porto Ferrajo, its chief town, sometime the residence of Napoleon I., upon his abdication, from the end of May, 1814, to 26th February, 1815, when he left for Cannes. It is now a convict settlement.

It is the Roman Ilva, about 18 miles long, and 3 to 10 broad, with several small bays, the best of which is that of Porto Ferrajo, which Napoleon compared to Tor Bay, when he saw it in 1815 from the deck of the Northumberland. The surface is hilly and bare, the highest point being Monte dell' Campana, 3,600 feet above the sea. Its rich iron mines at Rio Marino (Scotch Church here), which were worked by the Romans, are contained in a hill about 2 miles round, and 500 feet high, and yield 50 to 75 per cent. of metal, the ore being smelted at Cecina, Follonica, &c., on the mainland. Here ancient bronze and stone implements, arrow heads, knives, and adzes were found, 1865.

Population, 21,877; of whom 5,064 are at Porto Ferrajo, the capital, guarded by forts Falcone and Stella, which Napoleon amused himself by strength

ening. He also made a road across the island to Porte Longone (population, 1,200), which faces Tuscany. Napoleon was allowed to keep his title of Emperor; and Marie Louise that of Empress and Duchess of Parma; while the members of his family were styled Princes. But the island was so placed as to be favourable for intrigue, as subsequent events proved.

Elba is 3 miles from Bastia, in Corsica. The small islands around it are

Capraja (16 miles north-west); Pianosa, 10 miles south, to which Agrippa was banished by Augustus; Formica, 10 miles south of this; and Monte Cristo, 12 miles south-east of it, the scene of Alexander Dumas's novel of the same name.]

From S. Vincenzo, on the railway, to Campiglia Marittima (Stat.), near the river Cornia, which descends from Monté Rotondo. To the left is CAMPIGLIA and its old castle.

Follonica (Stat.), where the high road from Marsa and Volterra falls in, and from which the line is carried on to Grosseto, Montalto, and Civita Vecchia. Iron from Elba, about 18 miles distant, is smelted here, but only from December to May, on account of the malaria.

MASSA, called Massa Maritima to distinguish it from Massa Ducale, is about 12 miles north-east, and has a population of 2,200, and a cathedral of the thirteenth century.

There are two roads from Follonica to Grosseto, one following the coast, the other striking inland. The distances along the coach route, are: Grilli, 13 miles; Grosseto, 13 miles; Fontebranda, 15 miles; Nunziatelli, 15 miles; Montalto, 14 miles; Corneto, 12 miles; Civita Vecchia, 12 miles. Taking the rail, the next place is

Potassa (Stat.) Pass the ancient Lacus Prelius, and cross the Bruna, and reach

Grosseto (Stat.), on the Ombrone, and the road to Siena (50 miles by coach). Here the rail from Siena comes in via Asciano and Torrenieri (Route 26). Grosseto (population, 3,983), the capital of the Maremma, is 8 miles from the sca. The site of Russellæ, one of the twelve Etruscan cities, on the Via Claudia, is near this place.

Leaving Maglione on the left, the rail passes Talamone (Stat.), near Telamone Point, then Albenga (Stat.) on the Albenga, and reaches

Orbetello (Stat.) A small fortified town (population, 3,607), strikingly placed in the middle of a salt lake, near Monte Argentaro, a hilly peninsula, the ancient Mons Argentarius, which separates it from the sea. Its highest point, Tre Croci, or Three Crosses, is 1,750 feet above sea level, and Porto Ercole is on the south side. About 8 miles west of it is the Island of Giglio (population, 1,900), the Igilium of the Romans; and 8 miles south of it is Gianutri, which they called Dianum.

Leaving Orbetello, the rail and road pass the site of Cossa and the remains of walls, and follow the borders of the salt lake of Buano, 8 miles long, close to the sea. Cross the old Tuscan border,

and enter the former Patrimony of St. Peter, now annexed to the kingdom of Italy.

Montalto (Stat.) On the River Fiore, the ancient Forum Aurelii, which had a Papal Custom House.

Up the river is Volci or Vulci, a famous Etruscan town, which defied Rome, after the defeat of its allies, but was finally subdued 280 B.C., by the Consul Coruncanius. In 1828, upwards of 2,000 urns were discovered by the Prince of Canino, in its necropolis. In one tomb was the skeleton of a warrior, with a casque on his head and a child between his knees Musignano and Canino, where these treasures were collected, are a little further inland, not far from Toscanella, or Tuscania, another Etruscan city.

From Montalto the line passes

Corneto (Stat.), close to Tarquinii, the seat of the proud Tarquins, of which there were tracés down to the fourteenth century. Above 2,000 tombs have been opened in this neighbourhood, the contents of which are dispersed throughout Europe. Hence (12 miles) to

CIVITA VECCHIA (Stat.)

Chief port of the Roman province, from which the rail to Rome is continued. Population 12,000. Hotels: Orlandi; Europa; both indifferent.

A refreshment room has been established at the railway station, where breakfast, &c., can be had at moderate charges. Travellers are advised to take advantage of this accommodation on the score of economy and comfort. An omnibus attends the station, outside the ramparts, to convey passengers to the town, Ir. to 1 lr. Boat hire, embarking or disembarking in the Harbour, Ir., besides 1 Ir. for baggage. All the steamers enter the harbour. Landing by sea, luggage for Rome should be plombé to save re-examination.

Resident English Consul and American Consular Agent.

Conveyances. To Rome, by rail, 1 hour; by coach, to Viterbo, 36 miles. By steamer, to Naples, 12 hours; Leghorn, 12 hours; Genoa, 24 hours; Marseilles, 36 hours.

Civita Vecchia is on the site of Centum Cellæ, on the Via Aurelia, which having been ruined by the Saracens, was restored under its present name, signifying Old Town. Its harbour, the ancient Portus Trajani, founded by Trajan, was created a free port by Clement XII. An armed schooner, which represented the whole Papal navy, was formerly stationed here. The Inner harbour covers 5 acres. An Outer basin is made by two molesthe Becchiere mole 900 feet long, and the Quarantine mole 480 feet, with a Breakwater of 1,050 feet across the mouth, carrying a Lighthouse. Fort Angelo is near the Arsenal. Sulphur and alum works at Tolfa.

The French army of occupation landed here in 1819, and fought its way to Rome. It was the seat of a cardinal-bishop, and a delegation; and has a Cathedral Church, an old castle near the police

office, a Museum of Etruscan and other antiquities, a fort designed by M. Angelo, and a large convict prison. The former Roman States, after the annexation of Umbria, the Marches, and Romagna, to the new kingdom of Italy, came to be restricted to the Patrimony of St. Peter, and the provinces of Viterbo, Sabina, and the Campagna; a space about 100 miles long, 40 broad, having Rome in the middle, and a population of 400,000 (instead of three millions). All this space, including Orvieto, Terni, and Rieti, with the City, is annexed to the kingdom of Italy.

From Civita Vecchia, by rail, to Rome, 453 miles, in 1 to 2 hours; three times daily. The stations are as follows:-

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Hotels:

Hotel d'Italie.

Grand Hotel de la Ville, comfortable and w situated, lift.

Grand Hotel New York, Lung' Arno, a firs

rate house.

Grand Hotel de Milan, 12, Rue de Cerretan
close to Cathedral, and near the Station.
Hotel Royal de la Grande Bretagne,
Hotel de l'Arno.

Grand Hotel Continental de la Paix, Lung
Arno Nuovo, excellent first-class hotel.

Hotel Porta Rossa, very good. The proprietor Mr. Bassetti, speaks English.

Hotel de l'Univers, full south, great comfort beautiful gardens.

Grand Hotel de Russie, well situated on Piazza

Rio Fiume (Stat.), near an old Roman bridge Manin and Lung' Arno. on the Aurelian Road.

Santa Severa (Stat.), near an old castle, on the site of Pyrgi, a town pillaged by Dionysius, the tyrant. The Sasso Hills are on the left.

Furbara (Stat.) To the left is Cervetri, under a hill, the site of Agilla or Cære, an Etruscan city, where remains exist. It stands on a stream which runs down to Ad Turres, now Torre Flavia, on the coast.

Palo (Stat.) A fishing village, near Alsium, on the sea, which existed down to the tenth century.

Palidoro (Stat.), the centre of many Etruscan ruins. Here the Aurelian Way strikes off direct to Rome.

Maccarese (Stat.), on the Aro, or Arrone, near a seat of the Rospigliosi family.

Ponte Galera (Stat.), on a branch of the Tiber, where the Via Campana and the branch rail go off to Fiumicino, about 6 miles distant, near the site of Portus Trajani. The line here runs near the Tiber to

Magliana (Stat.) After this, the new Church of St. Paul and the Alban Hills appear, and the line terminates at Porta Portese, near the tomb of Caius Cestius and the English Cemetery; whence omnibuses run to the city of

Rome (Route 32.)

Grand Hotel Royal de la Paix; Washington; Pension Suisse; d'Italia.

Hotel et Pension des Iles Britanniques, Rue de la Scala.

Hotel de Rome, 8, Piazza Marie Novella; kept by Mr. Henkel.

Pension Girard, 5, Via Montebello, Palazzo Levi.
Hotel Monte-Bello, Via Curtatone.

Hotel Minerva; Hotel Victoria; Hotel Cavour.
Hotel Royal de l'Arno; Hotel de Londres.
Hotel de l'Arno, in Lung' Arno; Hotel Monaco.
Hotel and Pension Couronne d'Angleterre.
Grand Hotel et Pension Anglo-Americain.
Restaurants: Des Etrangers and Brasseric, Place
Manin, close to the Hotels de Russie, de la Ville,
and de la Paix; Della Patria Stella, D'Italia, Della
Fenice, &c.; Della Luna or Rossini, near Palazzo
Vecchio.

Caffés: Doney; d'Italia; Elvetico, &c.

Apartments: chiefly on Lung' Arno Acciajoli, opposite Palace Pitti; between Borgognisanti and the Cascine; and Piazzas d'Azeglio and del' Independenza.

Pension. at Mad. Brunetti's, 20, Via Nationale. Bankers: Messrs. Haskard and Son, 3, Piazza S. Gaetano (Palazzo Antinori).

Post Office, at the Uffizi. Telegraph: 12, Via

del Proconsolo.

Resident English and American Consuls. English Church Service in the new English Church, in Via del Maglio, behind San Marco.

Presbyterian Service, Lung Arno Guicciardini. Ang Catholic Church; Vaudois Church: American

From the time the city was temporarily chosen to be the new capital, it has become fuller than ever; lodgings have risen, new hotels have been opened, and the traffic has greatly increased. New houses have sprung up in the Maglio quarter, and

on the embankment in Lung' Arno Guicciardini. The Colli Promenade runs along the hills outside

me, the Senate was in ice of Archives in the Chamber of Deputies the Palazzo Vecchio. 1 the Riccardi Palace. copal Seminary. These Inicipal and other uses. rno in the midst of a uty and fertility, and he fourteenth century, quare, and are pierced n six principal roads. ide the walls. On the retches to the foot of it 15 miles, and rising ight of 3,000 feet at east is Fiesole, on a hill, ll round, with gardens The Boboli Gardens and >pe of another hill, to lent points of view for the plan of the city è distance are the blue 'ested with old cities,

the times of the early than Rome. Beneath h its noble buildings. a of Santa Croce, the ence; more to the left s of Florence, with its mpanile, and the roof more to the left, the that of Santa Maria Arno flowing towards ordsworth. The Boboli indays, other days by are obtained from S. ry, Villa Mozzi, and

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