(1340-80), viz., his Conversion, Pilgrimage, Temptation, Embarkation, Death, and Miracles.

8. Three of the Life of St. Ephesus, by S. Aretino (three others are destroyed).

The Campo Santo "exhibits the art growing through several ages, from the simplicity of indigence to the simplicity of strength. As you follow the chronology of the wall (1330-1670) you catch perspective entering into the pictures, deepening the back-ground and then adjusting the groups to the plans; you see the human figure first straight, or rather stretched, then fore-shortened, and then enlarged. rounded, salient, free, various, expressive."-Forsyth. The artists have given us the dress, furniture, and the humours of their own day, and introduced portraits of illustrious Tuscans, according to a common practice.

Churches. Some of the most noticeable churches, after the Duomo, are the following:

Santa Caterina, in the north-east of the city, was the church of the Dominican Convent, in which St. Thomas of Aquinas lived, and was built in 1258 by G. Aquelli. It contains F. Traini's Christ and St. Thomas, with Popes, Bishops, &c.; St. Thomas's Pulpit; N. da Pisa's statues of Faith and Charity, and his tomb of Archbishop Saltarelli (1342); Vanni's Santa Caterina receiving the Stigmata.

Santa Chiara is the church of the hospital, near the Duomo.

S. Francesco, near Santa Caterina, has old frescoes by T. Gaddi, Bartoli, &c. (about 1390).

*Santa Maria della Spina, on the south quay, is a beautiful little gem of white marble, begun 1230, and so called from a thorn of Christ's Crown, brought from Palestine by a Pisa merchant. It is chiefly in the Gothic style, but has some round arches. Two good statues by G. da Pisa, over the front, in richly canopied niches; and within are N. de Pisa's statues of the Madonna del Fiore, St. Peter, and St. John the Baptist.

S. Martino, in the south-east, has Palma Giovane's St. Benedict among the Thorns. Near this is a small statue, let into the wall, of a certain Chenzica, a heroine who once saved Pisa from a night attack of the Saracens.

S. Michele in Bosco, of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, has a ceiling cracked by an earthquake in 1846, an ancient crypt, and a monument of G. Grandi, a mathematician.

S. Niccolò, or Nicola, near the theatre, has N. de Pisa's campanile, a little out of the perpendicular, and a spiral staircase within.

S. Paolo, or Duomo Vecchio, near Ponte al Mare, a fine old church of the twelfth century, lately restored, with a sarcophagus of J. Borgondio, a scholar of the twelfth century, and granite pillars in the aisles.

S. Pietro in Vincoli, built in 1100 over an earlier church, which has been disused.

S. Sepolcro, near Ponte Vecchio, a round church of the twelfth century, built for the Knights Templars by D. Salvi. Galileo's House (born here is near it.

S. Stefano, near Via del Borgo, and the Piazza de Cavaliere, belongs to the Knights of the Order of St. Stephen, instituted in 1561 by Cosmo I. to fight against pirates; and was built 1565-96 by Vasari, with the palazzo adjoining it. Besides a fine organ, it contains several trophies taken from the Turks; also Cigoli's Institution of the Order; Ligozzi's Battles of Prevesa and Lepanto; C. Allori's Embarkation of Catherine de' Medici; J. da Empoli's Attack on Bona; and Bronzino's Nativity.

Palaces.-Palazzo Carovana, formerly the seat of the order, is now a normal school. The front is decorated with Tacca's bust of Cosmo II., busts of five other members, and with arabesques in sgraffitto, i.e., scratched in the white plaster to the black ground below. Fountain, and statue of Cosmo II., by Francavilla.

Palazzo Scotto was built by one of the richest men in Tuscany, who began life as a lazzarone and postboy.

Palazzo Toscanelli, on the north quay, was called Lanfranchi, when the residence of Byron in 1822, after he left Ravenna. It was built by M. Angelo.

Palazzo Lanfreducchi, or Upezzinghi, on the north quay, has a chain over the front with the motto "alla giornata" (daily), and Guido's Earthly and Heavenly Love in its picture gallery.

The University, founded in the year 1339 by B. della Gherardesca, was afterwards settled in the present building or Sapienza, near S. Frediano's Church, begun in 1493, and enlarged by Cosmo III. It was so well endowed that the average salary of its professors was 2,000 crowns, when Machiavelli, secretary to the Florentine Republic, received only 180. Galileo, born at Pisa in 1564, and the founder of experimental philosophy, was mathematical lecturer at this university, which claims to have first introduced (through Leonardo Bonacci) Algebra into Europe from the East, under the name of "regola della cosa," the cosa or thing being the unknown quantity. The Biblioteca has 30,000 volumes, chiefly law and polemics, and MSS. by Grandi, the mathematician; also a statue of Galileo, by E. Demi. In 1848, in consequence of the part taken by the students, the government moved certain university chairs to Siena, which was a great blow to Pisa.

In Via Santa Maria is the Museum of Natural History, with a Cabinet of Physic, an Observatory, or Torre della Specola, and a Botanic Garden, established as far back as 1544, containing many exotics. Cesalpina was a director.

Theatre, near Via Santa Maria, and the University. Accademia di Belle Arti, in Via di S. Frediano, has a collection of old Pisa and Florence mastersGiotto, Lippi, Cimabue, Gozzoli, Giunta da Pisa, Memmi, &c.

Near the Porta di Lucca are some remains of baths, called Bagni di Nerone, almost the only vestige of Roman occupation.

About 3 miles west of Pisa, towards the coast, is the Royal Acclimatisation Farm of

Il Gombo (formerly Le Cascine), so called from a fort of that name on the shores of the Mediterranean, and belonging to the King of Italy; near which Shelley was drowned, 1822. It has a fine avenue (3 miles long) of elms and poplars; and numbers 2,000 wild cows, 1,500 horses, and 200 camels employed in the work of the farm. The sea has retired here, and left a sandy soil, which is suited to the work of the camels kept here. They were first imported from the Levant by a Grand Prior of the Order of St. John. To the south is the mouth of the Arno, and the ancient Porto Pisano.

La Certosa della Valle Grazina a Carthusian Convent, is under Monte Verucca, a fine range of hills, 1,760 feet high, 5 miles east of Pisa.

Pisa, in the twelfth century, was distinguished for its commerce and maritime enterprise, and the number of its galleys, by which it made many successful attempts against the Turks and Moors. Along with Genoa it conquered Sardinia, Corsica, and the Balearic Islands, and even attempted to reduce Sicily. After frequent wars with its rival, Genoa finally obtained the supremacy in 1284, at the naval battle of Meloria; 13,000 prisoners were taken to Genoa, and its harbour at Port Pisano, or Calambrone, was filled up. Having sided with the Ghibeline or Imperial party, it was in 1445 seized by the Florentines, and thenceforth became subject to the Medici.

From Pisa there are two railway routes to Florence; 1st: by way of Empoli, 494 miles; 2nd: by way of Lucca, 63 miles. (See Route 24.)

1st. By way of Empoli, up the richly-cultivated valley of the yellow Arno, which winds among vineyards and fields of corn and flax.

The stations arc

razing Florence to the ground was successfully opposed by Farinata degli Uberti, as described in Dante's Inferno.

It has an ancient collegiate Church, of theeleventh century, with frescoes by Giotto. Jacopo da Em poli, &c.; and an equally ancient Baptistery, with an altar-piece by Ghirlandajo.

Montelupo (Stat.) Population, 5,227. So called from a castle of that name (meaning Wolf's Hill), built on the Arno, by the Florentines, 1203, to watch another one opposite it. called Capraja (the goat), which belonged to their rivals of Pistoja. Terra cotta vases are made. Near this is Ambrogiana, a villa of the late Grand Duke. Cross by an iron bridge to the north bank of the Arno, which here enters the narrow defile of Gonfolina, between rocks of sandstone. Then cross the Ombrone, which comes down from Pistoja and the Apennines to the north. (See Route 21.) Signa (Stat.) A fortified town (population, 6,569), on the Arno. Cross the Bisenzinio to S. Donnino (Stat.); the next one to Florence, which is entered near the Cascina. (See Route 26.)

ROUTE 24.

Pisa to Lucca, Pistoja, and Florence. Pisa to Florence, by way of Lucca and Pistoja, 63 miles, by rail in four hours. (See Bradshaw's Continental Guide).

The stations are-

S. Giuliano......

Rigoli ....
Ripafratta
Lucca

Porcari

S. Salvatore

Pescia

49

From the terminus at Porta Florentina, to Navacchio (Stat.) Across the Arno is Monte Vernecca, 1,760 feet high.

Pontedera (Stat.), population, 9,633, where the Era falls into the Arno. There is a road to Volterra, and the copper and borax works in its neighbourhood.

S. Miniato (Stat.) An old cathedral town (population, 15,599) on the hills, with a conspicuous church and tower. Here, in 1799, Napoleon paid a visit to a Canon Bonaparte, a connection of his family.

Empoli (Stat.), on the Arno, where the railway to Siena and Rome branches off. (See Route 26). Population, 15,534. Hats and pottery are made. It stands in a fertile plain, and is memorable for a meeting of the Ghibelines, in 1260, after the battle of Monte Aperto, on the Arbia, and the defeat of the Florentines, when a proposal for

I

29 Castello

Borgo-a-Buggiano.. 314 Rifredi.................. 611

Montecatini

Pieve-Mons.

33 Florence ...............

.....

34

63

Leaving Pisa, near the Porta Nuova terminus, the first place is

S. Giuliano (Stat.), population, 16,777, near I Bagni, or the warin baths of St. Julian, known to the Romans as the Aquæ Pisanæ, and revived by the Countess Matilda, in the twelfth century. Temperature, 84° to 109°. They are useful in complaints of the stomach, rheumatism, gout, &c., Two Bath Houses, and private Baths named after Jupiter, Mars, &c.

Ripafratta (Stat.), on the Serchio, near some old towers, and the Monte Diero Castle, on the Pisan Hills, to the right. After this comes

LUCCA (Stat.),

The ancient Luca, on the Auser, now the Serchio. Over the principal gate is the word "Libertas." Population, 20,421.

Hotels: Croce di Malta; Universo (close to the railway station); Della Corona; Vilia Pieri.

top has bronze wings, which shake in the wind. It contains a Madonna Enthroned, by F. Lippi.

S. Pietro Somaldi, near Porta S. Pietro, in the south wall. The front with a bas-relief of St. Peter and the Keys, was built 1205. Palma Vecchio'sSt.Anthony the Abbot, with St. Francis, &c. S. Romano, behind the Ducal Palace; an old church, rebuilt seventeenth century, by Buonamici. S. Salvatore has above the doors two bas-reliefs of the twelfth century, by Biduino, an old master. S. Trinita contains M. Civitali's Madonna on the Throne.

The palaces include:-

Palazzo Ducale (now P. Provinziale), a large edifice, begun 1578, by Ammanati, and finished by Giubara, 1729. It has a good marble staircase, a public Library of 40,000 volumes, and a small Picture Gallery, including two good pictures by Fra Bartolommeo-the Madonna della Misericordia Praying for Lucca; and God the Father, with St. Mary Magdalene and St. Catherine of Siena. Among the MSS. are Gospels of the tenth century, and Latin poems by Tasso. The statue of Maria Louisa by Bartolini faces the palace.

Palazzo Pretorio, now the Post Office, facing S. Michele, is a large solid building of the fifteenth century, formerly used as law courts.

Palazzo Borghi, built 1413, by P. Guinigi, is now the Deposito di Mendicità, founded 1413.

Palazzo Guidizione, where the archives are kept. There are several hospitals for the poor and helpless, for foundlings (esposti), and orphans; with a College and high school, the latter having a library of 20,000 volumes.

Theatre del Giglio, built 1817, faces the Piazza Grande. Another, called Teatro Diurno, is near Porta S. Donato, in the west wall.

BATHS OF LUCCA,

15 miles up the Serchio; by diligence, 3 lire. Hotels: De la Croix de Malta; de l'Europe; New York.

Church Service--in the season.

Resident English Physician -Dr. Gason.

The road passes Marlia, 3 miles, an ex-ducal country-seat, with a convent and gardens, copied from those at Marli near Paris; Ponte della Maddalena, or del Diavolo, with its high pitched middle arch, 12 miles; then the Lima to

PONTE A SERRAGLIO, 15 miles, in the midst of the warm sulphur springs, and the villages which have grown up around them. The veal, trout, olives, and oil are all excellent. Under the names of Bagni alla Villa (old palace), and Bagni Caldi, Doccebassi, Bernabo &c., the *Baths occupy a pleasant and healthy part of the valley of the Serchio, and are much frequented from May to October. The temperature ranges from 93° to 130°, they are clear and contain sulphates of lime and magnesia, with iron; and are useful in skin diseases, fevers, nervous complaints, and diseases of the glands.

There is a good supply of hotels, lodging-houses, shops, reading rooms, ponies, donkeys, &c., with an

English church, book club, and a hospital for the poor, founded by Count Demidoff. The Casino is a fine building, 140 feet long.

Excursions to the pretty village of Lugliaro and its ash trees, and San Marcello, up the Lima; to Prato Fiorito, and Montagna di Celle; to the Bargello Tower; and to the more distant height of Tre Potenze and Rondinajo, 3,200 feet, in the Appenines, commanding extensive prospects of land and sea, even as far as Corsica.

Following the rail, the next place to Lucca is Pescia (Stat.) Population, 12,339. Among mulberry grounds and paper works. Redi praises its buriano wine.

Montecatini (Stat.), population, 6,276, under a hill about 500 feet high. Here are some old waters fortifications, and drunk in cases of dysentery and liver complaints; temperature, 70° to 80°. Hotel: Locanda Maggiore. To the right is Monsummano (mineral springs here at the Bath House), the birthplace of Giusti, the famous patriotic poet, who died 1849. He was the friend of Azeglio and Ridolfi. At

Serravalle (Stat.) Population, 5,467. Here an old fort guards a pass in the hills, a tunnel through Monte Albano. Cross the Ombrone to

Pistoja (Stat.), where the Bologna railway joins. (See Route 21.) This is the Italian Birmingham, styled "La Ferrigna," from the arms and other iron goods made here, among which are pistols, first invented here by Camillo Vitelli, about 1520. Machinery, nails, pins, cutlery, pistols, ploughs, organs, &c., still figure among its productions; as well as good mutton and melons. Population, 12,225.

Hotels: La Posta; di Londra; la Stella.

It is the ancient Pistoria, at the foot of the Apennines, of a square shape, with bastions and gates at each corner, and good wide streets. It is the seat of a diocese, one of whose prelates was Scipione di Ricci, a reforming bishop of the last century; and in mediæval history it is celebrated for the invention of the Bianchi and Neri, or black and white Guelphs. These originated in a quarrel, in 1296, between the Cancellieri and Panciatechi families, whose old palaces are here. In 1306, its first walls were razed by the Florentines, which proved a fatal blow to its prosperity.

In the Piazza dol Duomo at the centre of the town, near the cathedral, is the

Palazzo Pretorio, now the Law Court, an ItalianGothic building of the fourteenth century, the seat of the Podestà in the time of the republic. Facing this is the picturesque

Palazzo Comunale, or degli Anziani, built 1295-1385. Over the middle window is a black marble bust of Tedici, who betrayed Pistoja to his father-in-law, Castruccio Castracani, of Pisa, in 1325. In the advocates' room is a gigantic sketch of a Captain Grandenio, 15 feet high.

The Duomo, or Cathedral of S. Jacopo, covered with black and white marble, was founded by the Countess Matilda, and restored by Niccolò da Pi

in the thirteenth century; it has an outer pulpit; the interior has been modernised. The Campanile fronting Terre del Podestà, is by Ciovanni da Pisa. Above the principal doorway is a terra cotta bas-relief, by A. della Robbia, which was gilded in 1503. It contains a monument of the jurist and poet Cino, the friend of Dante and Petrarch, sitting in his chair, surrounded by his pupils, with a figure of Selveggia, his mistress, to whom his poems were addressed. Portrait of Petrarch. Verrocchio's Monument of Cardinal Fortiguerra, a patron and founder of the Sapienza, 1473, and whose old family palace remains here. C. Allori's Resurrection.

In S. Jacopo Chapel is the *Silver Altar, having a niched figure of St. James, with apostles, angels, &c., and ornaments in silver and enamel, being a joint contribution of sculptors and artists (Brunelleschi, &c.) of the fourteenth century, resident at Pistoja. Facing the cathedral is the Baptistery, or S. Giovanni Rotondo, a marble octagon, by Andrea da Pisa, 1357.

The Bishop's Palace, a handsome building, erected by Scipio di Ricci. In 1786 he held a synod of his clergy. He opposed indulgences, and favoured a liturgy in the common tongue, and the independence of the bishops, besides other reforms, the advocacy of which brought upon him a decree of suspension from Pius VI., who issued against the synod the Bull (1795) "Auctorem fidei." Ricci submitted, and was reconciled at Florence 1805, under Pius VII. He was born at Florence in 1741, his mother being a member of the Ricasoli family. Opposite the palace is the Theological College, with a beautiful corridor and gardens. Cardinal Fortiguerra's Library and Statue.

S. Bartolommeo and S. Paolo are both of the twelfth century. S. Bartolommeo, S. Andrea, S. Michele, and S. Giovanni, have each an outer carved Pulpit.

S. Domenico, built 1250. It contains Fra Bartolommeo's Madonna; Empoli's Miracle of St. Carlo Borromeo, with portraits of the Rospiglioso family; C. Allori's St. Dominic receiving the Rosary, with the painter's portrait; R. Ghirlandajo's St. Sebastian; and tomb of Lazzari the jurist.

S. Giovanni Evangelista, or Forcivita, so called from having been outside the city walls, which now enclose it. Built in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. The font is by Giovanni da Pisa.

Santa Maria dell' Umiltà, an octagon church, in the Corinthian style, and one of the best in Pistoja; begun 1509, by Vitoni, and finished by Vasari, who built the cupola. At one of the altars is the gold laurel crown of Corilla Olimpica, a poetess, which she consecrated to the Virgin.

S. Salvatore, rebuilt 1270. Here Catiline is said to have been buried, after his fight trom Rome, upon Cicero's exposure of his conspiracy, and his defeat by the Consuls, in this neighbourhood. The street is calle i Tomba di Catilina.

S. Sprito, built by Ramignani, with a high altar,

by Bernini, supported by four columns of verdeantico, from the Villa Papa Giulio at Rome.

The Ospedale Grande del Ceppo, founded in 1218-77, and since restored, has some bas-reliefs, by the Della Robbias, and others, and a good cornice. Among the natives of Pistoja are Pope Clement IX., Bracciolini, Ventura, the architect, and Cipriani, the painter. Near here are

Abetone, a mountain resort near Monte Cimone, and Cutigliano, another health resort lower down. Prato (Stat.), on the Eisenzino, under the Apennines. Population, 13,410. An old walled town, with a Cathedral of the twelfth and fifteenth centuries, containing the Virgin's Girdle, and paintings by F. Lippi, A. Gaddi, &c.; a Gothic campanile; and a Palazzo del Popolo, now the prison. Within a short distance is the Monteferrato range, and its serpentine quarries.

Sesto (Stat.), population, 10,754, near the Doccia Porcelain Factory, and Monte Morello (2,700 feet high).

Florence (Stat.) (See Route 26).

ROUTE 25.

Pisa, to Leghorn, Cecina, Saline, Volterra, Elba, Grosseto, Civita Vecchia, and Rome.

This is the western coast line, following the Via Aurelia, in ancient Etruria. It is the least interesting route of any towards Rome, and is therefore seldom taken, especially as it passes through the Maremma districts, where fever prevails from June to October. (See Bradshaw's Continental Guide. The stations are—

Livorno in Italian; Livourne in French. Population (1831), 97,616, with suburbs. Hotels: Grand Hotel, M. J. Spatz, proprietor; Aquila Nera; du Nord; Grand Hotel and Pension Americaine, outside the Porta a Mare; Grande Bretagne.

Omnibuses attend the arrival of the trains at the railway stations; fares, 50 cents.; carriage fare, 1 lira 50 cents.; cittadine, 80 cents the course; to the mola, 1 lira 50 cents.; per hour, 1 lira 70 cents. Boat hire depends on the distance the vessel is lying off in the bay, from 2s. to 3s. and 5s. cach person; bargain beforehand if possible.

Travellers will do well to provide themselves here with whateverspecic they are likely to require,