like a lighthouse. The town of Classe was destroyed by Luitprand, King of the Lombards, in 728. Two miles outside Porto Sisi, close to the Ronco, is the

Colonna de' Francesi, or Frenchmen's Pillar; a square column covered with arabesques and inscriptions, erected in 1557 by President Cesi, in memory of the battle of Ravenna, gained on Easter Day, 11th April, 1512, by the French, under Gaston de Foix, over the troops of Julius II. and the Spanish King. The Chevalier Bayard, Ariosto, Cardinal de' Medici (Leo X.), and others were present, and 20,000 men were killed on both sides, including the French general, "the hero boy," who was only twenty-six.

The Pineta, or Pine Forest, to the east of the town, 25 miles long. It is full of green, picturesque walks, and is otherwise interesting from its antiquity and association with many celebrated names. The Vicole del Poeta marks a favourite resort of Dante, who speaks of it ("ramo in ramo si raccoglie") in his Divine Comedy. Here Boccaccio places the scene of his novel of Nastagio degli Onesti, in the Decameron, which Dryden has versified in his fable of the Proud Honoria pursued by the spectre horseman, Guido Cavalcanti, ancestor of Theodore, who comes to her rescue armed with a sapling pine. Byron was never tired of riding through its haunted ground. Several round towers line the coast.

Garibaldi's wife, Anita, is buried here, in a chapel in the middle of the forest, about a mile from Marquis Guiccioli's farm. In 1849, after the fall of Rome, Garibaldi was making for Venice, pursued by the Austrians, when the vessel was wrecked near Cervia. His wife, then near her confinement, walked through the forest, but at last fell exhausted and died in her husband's arms, as they reached the farm. In 1859, when Garibaldi gave up the command of the Central Italian League, upon his difference with General Fanti, before leaving Ravenna, he visited his wife's grave, with his two children, Teresa and Menotti, and afterwards retired to Caprera.

Ravenna, in the middle ages, was a republic under the influence of the Polenta family, one of whom, Guido de Polenta, was the father of Francisca Rimini, whose adultery with her husband's brother, Paolo, is the subject of the wellknown episode in Dante's Inferno, Cant. V. Her father, Guido, was Dante's protector, and gave him funeral honours. The Venetians held it from 1440 to 1509; it was taken by the French after the great battle of 1512; and was given up to the Pope in 1530. From Ravenna a line has been opened to Cervia and Cesenatico, which will be continued along the coast to Rimini. There is a direct line to Forli (below) in 1 hour.]

Returning to the main line towards Ancona the next station to Castel Bolognese is

Faenza (Stat.), the ancient Faventia, on the Via Emilia and the River Lamone; the first place Italy where coloured and glazed pottery, of the

kind which the Italians call majolica (because originally a Majorca production), and the French called faience, was made. Population, 14,000. It was taken and sacked in 1376 by the Papal troops under Hawkwood, an English leader. It is a wellbuilt, walled town, with an arcaded piazza in the middle, surrounded by the Cathedral, Clock Tower, Town Hall, Fountain, Theatre, Lyceum, Hospital, &c. The Cathedral contains some paintings; and the Town Hall was the palace of G. Manfredi, who was murdered here, by his wife, Francesca. His two sons were afterwards put to death at Rome, on the surrender of Faenza to Cæsar Borgia in 1501.

Torricelli, the pupil of Galileo, and inventor of the barometer, was born here; as well as Tamburini, the singer. There is a Monument to Mazzini. It is noted for its wine, silk, and paper, as well as for its pottery. The Zanelli Canal, cut 1782, communicates with the Adriatic.

About 4 miles distant are the hot Springs of St. Catherine. The road to it, which ascends the Lamone and crosses the Apennines down to Florence, was first made by the Romans. It was close to Faventia that Sylla defeated the Consul Carbo, and drove him out of Italy.

Rail, 11 miles, to Fognano.

Forli (Stat.), near the Mentone, is the Roman Forum Livii, founded by Livius Salinator, after his defeat of Asdrubal. Population, 16,016.

Forli is a bishop's see, and head of a province. It contains an old castle, or rocca, the seat of the Lords of Forli; a Cathedral, Santa Croce, lately rebuilt, and several churches; the Palazzo del Governo, in the large piazza; the Albicini, Guarini, and other palaces; a Monte di Pietà; and a new Peschiera, or fish market, built 1830. At the cathedral is C. Cignani's fine Assumption, in the Cupola of the Chapel of the Madonna del Fuoco (or fire) which took him twenty years to paint. St. Filippo has paintings by Cignani, C. Maratti, and Guercino's Annunciation. At the Observatine Church of St. Girolamo is Guido's Conception, with frescoes by Palmezzano and Melazzo. At St. Mercuriale, works by Palmezzano and I. da Imola.

The Pinacoteca at the college contains paintings and drawings by Palmezzano, Cignani, Guercino, &c. Palmezzano was born at Forli, about 1456; his portrait is preserved by his family. Deposition is now in the National Gallery. Rail to Ravenna in 1 hour.

His

Cross the Ronco (ancient Bedesis) to Forlimpopoli (Stat.), so called after Forum Pompilii, of the Romans, which was destroyed by the Lombards, in 700. Population of the modern town, 4,996. It has a church and a castle, built by Cæsar Borgia, to whom it was given by his father, Alexander VI.

Cross the Savio to

Cesena (Stat.), the Roman Cesena, and a bishop's see; celebrated for its white wine. Popu

lation, 38,223. The Palazzo Pubblico has a painting by F. Francia; at the Capuchin Church is a Guercino. There is a statue of Pius VII. (Chiaramonte), who was born here, as was his predecessor, Pius VI., who died at Avignon, 1799. In the library of the college, collected by the Malatesta family, among other MSS., is the Etymologiæ of St. Isodorus, of the seventh century. Benedictine Church of Madonna del Monte, on a hill near the town, is the work of Bramante. Pius VII. was a monk in this convent.

The

Rimini is on the whole well built; it is a bishop's see, and, besides its remnants of Roman occupation, it contains a fine Cathedral, churches, college, lyceum, the palace of the Malatesta family (now a prison), Lords of Rimini, and remains of their fortress, with two open places. One isthe Pescheria, or Fish Market, surrounded by arcades, in which is a pedestal stating that Cæsar addressed his soldiers here after passing the Rubicon. Suetonius and Lucan make him out to have done so, but he says nothing of it himself. The other, or Piazza Grande, is ornamented with a bronze statue of Paolo V., and a fountain. The Fanal and Paradiso offer good points of view.

bourhood.

Between this and Savignano the line passes the Rivers Pisciatello, Fiumicino, and Rigossa, all of which, with the Uso, have at one time or another been identified with the famous

Rubicon, the boundary line between Cisalpine Gaul and Umbria in Italy proper. Cæsar, in B.C. 40, was at Ravenna when M. Antony came to him with news that the Senate had resolved that he should dismiss his army or be declared a public enemy. Sending on his cohorts before, he came to the Rubicon, the boundary of his province. "We may go back," he said, "but when we pass this little bridge everything must be done by arms." He made up his mind, waded the stream, saying, "Alea jacta est" (the die is cast), took Ariminium, and in two months was master of all Italy. Close to a Roman bridge on the Fiumicino is a pillar of modern date, with a pretended Senatus consultum, prohibiting any general from crossing, under the heaviest penalties. This stream, however, into which all the rest fall, may stand for the real boundary with more propriety than any other. The next place is

S. Arcangelo (Stat.), on the River Uso, which is the fourth stream claimed as the Rubicon. This little town is the birthplace of Clement XIV. (Ganganelli). The next station is

RIMINI (Stat.)

The ancient Ariminium, in Umbria, where the Via Emilia ended, or joined the Via Flaminia. The modern boundary of Umbria, or Urbino, is further

on.

Population, 10,840.

Hotels: Aquila d'Oro; Posta.

Conveyances.-Railway to Ancona and Bologna. This ancient Roman town stands on a plain at the mouth of the Marecchia (ancient Ariminius), where the Clusa joins it near the sea, which has somewhat retired from the old port made by Augustus. Its marble stones were used in the construction of the cathedral. Further down is a harbour for small craft.

*Arco d'Augusto, at Porta Romana, is an arch across the road to Rome, erected in honour of

stone, like marble, supported by four Corinthian columns, 32 feet high, with medallions of Venus, Jupiter, Neptune, and Minerva. It is 60 feet high and 27 thick, and the archway is 31 feet wide, being wider than any other in Italy.

*Ponte d'Augusto, or bridge which carried the Emilian way over the Ariminius near the town, is of five arches, 320 feet long, made of blocks of Istrian marble. An inscription states that it was finished by Tiberius. There are some slight traces of an amphitheatre of Brutus, at the Capuchin Convent.

The Cattedrale, or Tempio dei Malatesta, was founded in the fourteenth century and rebuilt in the fifteenth, by L. B. Alberti, in the mixed Gothic and classical style, at the cost of Sigismund Malatesta, whose arms (the rose and elephant) and family monuments are visible all over the building. Under a series of arches down the outside are seven Sarcophagi dedicated to certain celebrities of this little court, one being Themistios, a Greek writer on Aristotle. Near the door is the tomb of Isotta, fourth wife of Sigismund Malatesta, two others having been poisoned. There are also monuments of Sigismund and his son-in-law; a portrait of the architect; a fresco by P. della Francesca, and bronze bas-reliefs by Ghiberti.

At S. Giuliano's Church, near Augustus's Bridge, is a Martyrdom of St. Julian, by P. Veronese; and at S. Girolamo is a St. Jerome, by Guercino. At the Capella S. Antonio, on the canal, St. Anthony preached to the fishes.

The Palazzo del Comune, or Town Hall, contains a Pietà by G, Bellini, and a painting by Ghirlandajo. The library of 30,000 volumes and MSS. was founded in 1617, by A. Gambalunja, a jurist. The Palazzo Ruffi is the site of the Cisterni Palace, in which Francesca da Rimini and her lover Paolo de Malatesta lived, whose guilty passion is celebrated by Dante. Here she was killed in the arms of her paramour. It is also celebrated for the Council between the Arians and Athanasians.

Rimini, a few years ago, was the scene of a Winking Madonna, which took greatly with the peasantry, who came to her in crowds, groaning and weeping, and offering their earnings and other

gifts. The more intelligent part endeavoured to expose the cheat, which was managed in a clumsy way by moving the eyes and making them drop tears; but the Franciscan monks who contrived the trick gave out that these miracles were intended as divine warnings to the people for neglecting the worship of the Virgin.

[About 12 miles south-west of Rimini, up the valley of the Ausa (diligence in 5 hours, return 3 hours) is the famous little

REPUBLIC OF SAN MARINO,

Which occupies a space of 22 square miles on the top and slopes of a conspicuous and craggy mountain (formerly called Monte Titano), about 2,600 feet high; and commands a striking prospect of the Adriatic Sea and the Apennines. It originated in a church, perched on the summit of the mountain, to the memory of St. Marino, a hermit, who had been a Sclavonian stonecutter and fled from Rimini in Diocletian's persecution. This church contains the ashes of the saint, and his statue holding a model of the mountain top and of three towers of its castle, which constitute the arms of the republic. They stand in La Città, the seat of government, where the best houses are found; and which was walled round in the tenth century as the "Plebs Santa Marini cum Castello." It can be reached only by zigzag paths cut in the almost perpendicular rock.

The suburb outside the city walls, 500 feet below, is called Il Borgo; and the population of both amounts to 600. That of the republic in its whole extent, including Serravelle and three or four other villages at the foot of the mountain, is about 7,820. Its greatest distance across is 8 miles, so that when the great bell is rung, on emergencies, it is easily heard all over the republic. It contains some good pasture, and produces fruit, silkworms, and wine; the last being kept in cool cellars excavated in the rocks. One branch of manufacture is powder, which is a government monopoly in the rest of Italy.

There is no shop or inn in the city, but there is an inn in the Borgo. Its streets are difficult and only used by mules, donkeys, and oxen.

At the Capuchin Church is a Descent from the Cross. There are three other churches and four convents in the republic. In the Council Chamber is a bust of Onofri, a distinguished citizen, and a Holy Family, by G. Romano.

It is governed nominally by an Arringo, or Assembly of the citizens at large, but really by an elective Generale Consiglio, called Il Principe (the Prince), of sixty members, nobles, small proprietors, and traders, one-third of each; and by two Capitanei for town and country, who change every six months. A judge and doctor, who must be foreigners, are elected for three years. Though it boasts an army of 950 men, all volunteers, it has a model budget of £4,800, with an expenditure of only £4,380, and no public Debt.

The laws are printed in folio, entitled "Statuta Illustrissimæ Reipublicæ Sancti Marini," which Addison speaks of in his travels, and which among other things provide that an ambassador sent to any foreign state shall be allowed one shilling per day for his expenses. In the French invasion of 1797, Bonaparte behaved with civility to the ancient republic, offered to enlarge its territory, which was declined, and gave it four pieces of

cannon.

His

A treaty has been concluded in due form for regulating and settling the relations between the new kingdom of Italy and the republic; and it still figures among the independent states of Europe. It has been a convenient asylum for political refugees and debtors, who have always been treated with impartial hospitality. One of the most distinguished was Delfico, a Neapolitan, who wrote a history of the republic, 1804, and always signed himself "Citadino di S. Marino," home is pointed out, as well as that of the Cavalier Borghesi, whose collection of medals is to be seen here. From the summit of the mountain, the coast of Dalmatia, across the Adriatic, can be seen at sunrise. "Few such sunrises are, I think, to be witnessed from any spot in Europe. First, came the gradually kindling path of fire athwart the cold deep blue of the Adriatic. Then one after another the mountain tops were waked up to the new day. The Ancona Promontory was the first to catch the ray; then the higher of the tops further inland; and lastly the lowlands and the distant city of Rimini, which seemed close beneath our gaze. Let no one whose love of sight-seeing has induced him to climb the hill of San Marino leave it without having stood on the castle battlements at sunrise."-TROLLOPE's Lenten Journey.

About 5 miles south-west of S. Marino is the Castel di S. Leo, in which the famous impostor, Count Cagliostro, who pretended to make old women young, and was mixed up with the affair of Cardinal Rohan and the diamond necklace, was shut up by the Pope, and died 1795.]

Leaving Rimini, by rail, which now follows the Flaminian way, close to the coast, the next place

is

La Cattolica (Stat.) Population, 1,300. In the Duchy of Urbino, so called when the orthodox bishops at the Council of Rimini separated from their Arian brethren and found an asylum here.

Cross the Foglia (or ancient Isaurus), near the remains of a Roman bridge, to

Pesaro (Stat.) The Roman Pisaurum, at the mouth of the Foglia, which forms a small port. Population, 12,547.

It is walled round, with good wide streets, and is head of a province, and a bishop's see. It contains the old palace of the Duke of Urbino, of the sixteenth century, in the Piazza, where there is a statue of Urbino VIII.; Cathedral, and seven or eight Churches, one of which, S. Francesco, has G. Bellini's Coronation of the Virgin. Biblioteca,

with 15,000 volumes and MSS. of Tasso. College and Priests' Seminary. Museum of medals, bequeathed by Olivieri, the antiquary and a native. Collection of majolica at the Ospizio degl' Incurabili; a class of pottery which came to great perfection at Pesaro.

Collenuccio, a chronicler of the fifteenth century, and Rossini, were natives. Its Albanella and S. Giovese wines are sent to Egypt.

Good olives and figs are grown here and coal has been found. In the neighbourhood is the Villa Bergami, which belonged to Queen Caroline, when Princess of Wales. The grounds contain two monuments to her daughter, the Princess Charlotte, and her brother, the Duke of Brunswick, who fell at Waterloo.

Villa Imperiale was a seat of the Dukes of Urbino. At Casino del Barchetto (now a farm) Bernardo Tasso, the father of Torquato, resided, and composed his Amadis. S. Angelo, about 8 miles off (where the best figs come from), is the birthplace of Giovanni Branca, who is claimed as the author of a work on steam, printed as early as 1629.

Pesaro to Urbino and Arezzo. (See Route 28.) The next place is

Fano (Stat.) Called by the Romans Fanum Fortunæ, from a temple erected to commemorate the defeat of Asdrubal on the Metaurus, near the mouth of which it stands, in a charming situation. Its fort, restored by Paul V., is now useless. Population, 9,484.

It is walled like the other towns in Italy, and one of its gates was a triumphal arch over the Via Flaminia, dedicated to Augustus, and restored by Constantine. It is a bishop's see. In the marketplace is a fountain, with a statue of Fortune, allusive to the old name of the town, which is also perpetuated in the

Duomo, dedicated to S. Fortunato. It has four lions in the Gothic front, and Domenichino's St. Mary and L. Carracci's Madonna.

S. Agostino has Guercino's Guardian Angel, and S. Francesco, some fine Gothic tombs of the Malatesta family.

At Santa Maria Nuova are Perugino's Madonna, a Visitation, by G. Santi (Raphael's father), and a Pietà, attributed to Raphael himself.

S. Paterniano has Guercino's Sposalisio (Marriage), and others by C. Bonone, d'Arpino, &c. S. Pietro has an Annunciation by Guido. Collegio Folsi contains Domenichino's fine David

with Goliath's Head, and the Hospital (or S. Croce Church), a Madonna by G. Santi.

Fano has a good theatre and public library. Small fish, of the sort called cavallo marino, from the likeness to a horse's head, are taken along the coast. There is a road to Fossombrone and Urbino, and over the Apennines to Arezzo. (See Route 28.)

From Fano, on the line, cross the Metauro, or Metaurus, on whose banks the Consuls Livy and Nero defeated Asdrubal, 207 B. C., and so turned the tide against Hannibal and Carthage. Then reach

Marotta (Stat.), near Cape Marotta. Cross the Rivers Casano and Misa, to

Sinigaglia (Stat.) The Sena Gallica of the Romans, plundered by Pompey; also a bishop's see, and the birthplace of Madame Catalani and of the late Pope, Pio Nono. Pius IX., whose name was Giovanni Maria, was born 1792, of the house of Mastai-Ferretti, a noble family long resident here; became bishop of Imola, 1832, and was elected Pope, 1846. A cottage outside the town, in which his foster-nurse lived, records that Pio Nono was suckled there. It is noted for a free mart, or Fair, of three weeks' length, called the Fair of St. M. Magdalene, beginning 20th July, and chartered as far back as 1200. Traders come to it from many parts; the whole town and neighbourhood are for the time alive with business, and its small port is full of shipping. Population, 9,602.

It has a fortress; Cathedral of S. Pietro; several churches, that of Delle Grazie, outside the walls, having a painting said to be by P. Perugino; and

a new theatre.

In 1502, Sinigaglia was taken by treachery, by the infamous Cæsar Borgia, and its defenders massacred in cold blood, with their leaders, Oliveretto, Vitelii, and the brothers Orsini. They were mercenaries who had formerly served under him. Machiavelli, the envoy for the Florentine Republic, gives an account of the tragedy.

After Sinigaglia, the line passes

Montemarciano (Stat.), not far from the mouth of the Esino, the ancient Esio, with the bold promontory of Ancona in view. Here the junction rail to Foligno and Rome falls in. (See Route 29.) Then comes

Falconara (Stat.), the next to

Ancona (Stat.), which is by the water side. (See Route 28.)