with Omar and our mekhasni to the gate of the city, defiling between the low mud-walls which bounded the little palm-gardens, and which often formed raised causeways; and at the Bab el Soultaun (king's gate) we awaited our envoys. Several of the natives greeted us as they passed, and here for the only time in all our travels we were saluted by the friendly "Salem aleikoum," "Peace be with you," almost invariably reserved for followers of the Prophet alone. The people were a different race from any we had yet seen,-very dark, often with a strong dash of negro features; the women with frizzled hair curled into corkscrews and plaited at the back, and ornamented like Nubians with red beads and gold coins.

At length a horseman rode up and bid us follow him to the camp of the Agha. He was a relation of the kaliph, who had been sent on the errand. We retraced our steps and entered the Arab encampment, where we saw several sheiks' tents larger than the others, and adorned with tall plumes of black ostrich-feathers. About 500 yards from the Agha's tent another horseman came to meet us. He had a voluminous white-striped burnous, and handsomely furnished saddle and housings. This was the Agha's brother. At last we were led to Sidi Zobeir himself, a fine-looking Arab, more than six feet high, about thirty years of age, with dark complexion, oval face, prominent hooked nose, dilated but delicately formed nostrils, long taper fingers, dark pointed beard, and pensive expression, simply habited in a white burnous. In all he was a fine type of the highbred Ishmaelite chieftain; and his brother had the same impress of high extraction.

He received us with quiet courtesy, and led us into a low, flat-roofed, and scarcely finished building.

Two windowless rooms, opening at right angles to each other into a little courtyard, formed our dwelling. We selected the one whose doorway was in the centre, and presently the Agha sent us a long-pile Turkey carpet to furnish it. Our spare tent formed a curtain door. The camels, which had followed us, were quickly unloaded, their burdens stored in the other room, and we took formal possession. The Agha with some of his attendants sat outside on a mat. He smoked his pipe while we were served with coffee on a silver tray.

It was interesting to note the patriarchal familiarity with which he was addressed, and at the same time. the deferential character of the salute. Each passer-by stooped before him and touched his hand, kissing the hand with which he touched his chief, or simply kissing the hem of his burnous if he were one of very inferior rank.

We re-entered and were served inside our abode with dates and sour camel's milk in a bowl as large as a wash-tub. About sunset two Arabs entered with a long greasy pole on which was spitted the carcase of a sheep roasted in its skin or rather baked in ashes. This was held between us, while an attendant sliced it with his knife and tore off the morsels with his nails. Any particularly savoury bits he put with his own fingers to our mouths. Whatever may be said of the manner of dishing up for the table, no Welsh mutton that ever was roasted can compare with a desert sheep baked in its own skin. The gravy ran in streams, and the flesh was as tender as though it had hung a fortnight. All the wool had been singed off in the process of cooking and the skin formed at once a protection for the juices of the meat and a good "crackling." After the sheep, followed savoury sticks of kabobs of liver

and kidney, but without any bread or vegetables. But this was only the first course. Kouskousou followed in due order after an interval of an hour, relieved by a state visit from the kadi of the town, who apologised intensely for not having arrived sooner, and sat an interminable time. It was long since we had been so feasted, the only fault in the dishes being that they were so engrained with sand as to require a gizzard for their digestion.

Coffee was sent us from the Agha's tent, and soon afterwards he, his brother, and the kadi paid us another visit, were delighted with our fire-arms, and persuaded us to make ball practice with our revolvers by candlelight. There was a fire lighted in the centre of the courtyard, which was thronged with Arabs of every degree laughing and chattering incessantly. Our horses varied the lullaby by an occasional uproar, for the six unruly brutes were all picketed within the enclosure, too close together for peace's sake.

The next morning no sooner was our curtain lifted than we had a bevy of visitors. The Agha, his brother, and the kadi presented themselves, attended by coffee and pipe bearers, whilst a crowd of inferiors choked the doorway. They seemed all curiosity to watch the toilet of the Christian dogs; but our modesty had by this time become indurated, and we submitted with good grace to what we could not help. The courtyard being so open, we were always like beasts in a show, subject to the gaze of the natives, especially at meal-times. Doubtless, had our entertainers been as shrewd as John Chinaman, a pretty fortune might have been amassed by a charge per head for the sight. But we were never molested nor treated with the least incivility.

It was proposed that we should go on horseback after