through the building the officers were most obliging and polite. The volumes in the library were generally bound in bright covers, with much gilding, being presentation copies. This gave the alcoves a bright look, which was exactly what was needed. The whole building was pleasantly heated, and kept in excellent order. The Supreme Court-where Chief Justice Chase with seven of his brethren were sitting—is a semicircular room, not in any way remarkable. The judges, however, with the exception of the chief, were very remarkable for fat. Seven uglier fat men I never saw on any Bench, nevertheless they had very powerful faces, not expressive of refinement, but rather of shrewdness and determined will, little of grandeur or dignity. They wore silken gowns, but not wigs, as in our courts.

The old Hall of Representatives is, to my idea, handsomer than the new one. It is a lofty, domed structure, the dome supported upon pillars of the red Tennessee marble, and the floor of red and white marble. It was there that Washington, Clay, and Webster spoke. The Senate Chamber and Hall of Representatives were handsomely fitted up and decorated, but more in the style of a private room than a public hall. They were lighted from the top, the ceiling being entirely of painted glass.

VOL. II.

The effect

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was rather dull and gloomy than impressive. The desks, or small bureaux, of the representatives were exceedingly tasteful, being made of light-coloured marble, richly carved. The two chambers resembled more some of the rooms of the Tuileries or Louvre, than those of our House of Lords, which, in its great magnificence, surpasses every other structure of the kind. It must be confessed, however, that the Capitol, from its dazzling whiteness, is more showily effective. Like the cathedral at Milan, it is much indebted to the climate for its cleanness and colouring. The Capitol, placed in London, would look as dismal as St. Paul's, which, however, is a far more perfect building, although the first coup d'œil is not so imposing. At a short distance, and before the eye detects that the centre is a sham, the Capitol is almost startlingly beautiful.

CHAPTER XV.

FROM PHILADELPHIA TO CHICAGO.-THE ALLE

GHANIES.

EAVING Philadelphia on a bright sunny day we were able to see to advantage the beautiful pastoral scenery of Pennsylvania, through which we had to pass on our way to Chicago. Our train ran for many miles along the side of a lovely valley, a perfect panorama of peaceful plenty. What a contrast the ruined South presents to the flourishing North! There desolated plantations, here trim white farm-houses and crowded barns; there frowning earthworks and charred towns, here round hills and thriving villages; there haggard and hopeless-eyed men, here bustling, well-to-do farmers.

As we approached the Alleghany Mountains, the scenery became wilder; the eminences were more abrupt, the outlines more bold, and the silent-flowing, tree-shadowed brooks alternated

with broad, rocky, brawling mountain streams, their wide bosoms bared to the winds, which blew colder and colder as we rushed nearer and nearer to their mountain homes. Beautiful vistas of stream, and tree, and rock opened, every now and then, as the train flew onward; but they closed too soon for us to do more than give an eager glance, and wish we had had time to stand and admire them to our heart's content.

We had started from Philadelphia at noon. At five o'clock the day was beginning to close, and we were only then at the foot of the Alleghanies. To have passed that beautiful range in the night, when it was possible to make our journey by daylight, would have been sacrilege. The railway ascent began at Altoona, and there we stayed for the night, leaving those who had seen the mountains before to traverse them in the dark.

At Harrisburg we had crossed the Susquehanna, a noble river flowing between lofty hills, covered with dark pines to their 'very summits. The twinkling lights in the houses, the yellow sheen on the water, and the great black coneshaped hills towering up across the fading light of the sunset sky formed a picture interesting in the extreme.

When the train stopped at Altoona, the noise of gongs and the display of white-aproned

negroes gave notice that supper must be taken there, if taken at all. The conductor announced a twenty minutes' halt a short one for hungry passengers to turn out of the cars, order their suppers, get them, eat them, and, finally, pay for them with a ten-dollar bill-as no change was to be had-and get back to their seats again. As we were going to stay for the night, it seemed to us-oblivious, for the moment, of hotel discipline-that we might wash our hands and change our travel-stained attire before taking our supper. But the appeals of three waiters in rapid succession to come down ere it was too late soon convinced us of our error; so down we went, and to be agreeably surprised, as it happened.

The Logan House, Altoona, had certainly one of the best restaurants in the United States. Guests were allowed to order what they chanced to fancy, instead of being hemmed in with a crowd of small dishes filled, for the most part, with things they perhaps disliked very much. What was ordered at the Logan House was also brought to table well cooked and of good quality. The dining and drawing-rooms were very fine. apartments. In the latter there was one of the best pianos (a Steinway) that I had touched in America, where good pianos are by no means rare. Some of the best built engine and carriage