lowers to appear en grande toilette, they would, I doubt not, find their number increase rapidly. Philadelphia, however, was less subject to these vagaries of dress than most cities. The Quaker simplicity still prevailed with a good many, and propriety and consistency seemed to pervade alike their persons and their establishments. ✓ To return to the public buildings. The Walnut Street Theatre-the fashionable one of Philadelphia-is small, but pretty. At the time we were in the city, Edwin Booth, the tragedian, was drawing crowded houses. He is the son of the Booth formerly famous on the English stage, and the brother of Wilkes Booth, who played the principal character in the tragedy of President Lincoln's death. The family is remarkable for genius, which may contain the seeds which produce either the patriotic assassin, or the great tragedian. A man to thoroughly personate great master-passions, must possess a soul capable of them, and according as they are well or ill controlled, so do they affect his life and There is something so exceedingly benignant in the expression of Edwin Booth's countenance, that it tends very much to dissipate the previously conceived idea of his brother as an assassin, in the full meaning of that word. It is said that Wilkes was even handsomer than his brother Edwin. But although as regards

career.

physique this may be correct, it would be difficult to find more intellectual and soul-like beauty than that which ennobles the countenance of Edwin Booth. There is in it a combination of power and sweetness rarely met with. His head is of the most wonderful symmetry, a beauty as rare as it is commanding. It resembles much that of the first Napoleon. Indeed, altogether, the likeness was most striking, when, in the character of Hamlet, he sat with arms folded in deep contemplation. The whole figure might have been that of Napoleon at St. Helena. His conception and rendering of the character of Hamlet was the most refined and intellectual I ever witnessed on the stage. His Othello was perfectly grand. He had nothing of the rant and pompous display so much admired in America; but the wonderful simplicity of his acting was its greatest charm. Hamlet—although I have seen it played more than once-will henceforth appear to me under Edwin Booth's face and form as long as the character lives in my mind, just as the face of the great Kemble is said to have lived ever after in the memories of those who had once seen him. In his every movement and attitude he was a study for a sculptor -he was grace personified.

Having seen so little of perfection in any form on the American stage, I feel bound to pay my

tribute to this American-born masterpiece of dramatic genius. If not thoroughly appreciated in his own country, as he scarcely is-the audience actually rising to leave in the most thrilling portion of the last scene in Othello, and evincing a stronger relish for a stray joke or two than for any other part—still he drew large audiences. I was informed by a mutual friend that his private character was as charming as his public personation, and that, charitable and kindly to all, he was an universal favourite from the manager to the call-boy. There is a larger theatre in the city, in Chestnut Street; but, as I have said, the Walnut Street theatre was the most fashionable. But this must not be taken in the English sense, as implying greater elegance, or wealth in its frequenters. ✓ In America ladies do not dress for the theatres, consequently the general appearance of an audience clothed in rough garments suitable for the cold and mire of streets and street cars is not brilliant nor enlivening,as in Europe, where all the best circles have come daintily attired and in carriages. Moreover, in Philadelphia the remains of Quaker sentiment still frown on theatres, and many of the wealthiest and best portion of the inhabitants are never even seen there. Theatres are much frequented by young men and their belles, for it is quite comme il faut

for a gentleman to walk out with his belle and adjourn to the theatre, and thence to an oyster or ice saloon.

The environs of Philadelphia are both interesting and beautiful. German Town is seven miles from the centre of the city, a suburb connecting them. About three miles out is Laurel Hill cemetery, most picturesquely situated on the banks of the Schuylkill. It has an area of about sixty acres, and contains many beautiful monuments. It is entered by a very handsome gate of Gothic design, and the first monument which arrests the attention of the visitor, is a group of Old Mortality, his pony, and Sir Walter Scott. There are several other cemeteries along this road, all endeavouring to make death look, if not inviting, at any rate as little repulsive as possible; and if mortal flesh could have its choice, I suppose it would be to lie in peace under one of those weeping willows that grow so luxuriantly in this country. The number of dollars standing to the name of said mortal flesh at the bankers, would, however, have something influential to say in the matter, no doubt-there as everywhere else.

VOL. II.

10

CHAPTER XI.

FROM PHILADELPHIA TO BALTIMORE-" ON TO

RICHMOND."

E left Philadelphia early in November, on one of those days whose balmy

air and bright skies have gained for them the title of "Indian summer "—cool enough to render exertion pleasant, without being cold enough to render inaction unpleasant, they are highly appreciated by the people of the Northern States, worn out by the heat of a long summer, and conscious of the severe winter coming upon them. The Indian summer is beautiful also in the South, but the steady fading of the summer into winter renders it less. noticeable there. The railroad runs for some distance along the bank of the Schuylkill river, which, on both sides, is dotted with handsome country houses. The earth was thickly covered with rich brown leaves; the late corn was stand