TOOGA. A VISIT TO CHATTANOOGA. 177 nooga similar structures were frequently seen. We passed by the fortifications of Tullahoma, dined at Decherd, and in the afternoon descended the Big Crow Creek hollow, in the Cumberland mountains, to Stevenson, where we remained long enough to visit Battery Harker, in front of it. It was a strong BLOCK-HOUSE AT NORMANDY, A Passing on from Stevenson, we observed many earth-works and blockhouses; and at each end of the temporary railway bridge at Bridgeport, where we crossed the Tennessee River, we noticed heavy redoubts. At Shellmound we entered the mountain region south of the Tennessee. The road gradually ascended, and in some places skirted the margin of the river, high above its bed. We soon reached one of the deep mountain gorges through which Hooker passed,' and crossed it upon delicate trestlework two hundred feet in air above the stream that passed through it, the whole trembling fearfully as our heavy train moved over it at a very slow pace. Then we were among the lofty hills of the Raccoon mountains, and in a little while descended by a gentle grade into Lookout Valley, crossed the Lookout Creek at Wauhatchie, swept along the margin of the Tennessee, at the foot of Lookout Mountain, and arrived at Chattanooga at sunset, where we took lodgings at the Crutchfield House. A letter of introduction to the Rev. Thomas B. Van Horn, post-chaplain at Chattanooga, gave us a valuable friend, and a competent guide to historical places during the two or three days we were in that town and its vicinity. He was then in charge of the National Cemetery near Chattanooga, laid out under his directions, into which he was collecting the bodies of Union soldiers from the battle-fields of Southeastern Tennessee and Northern Georgia and Alabama, and from posts and stations within a circle from eighty to one hundred miles radius. Mr. Van Horn was residing, with his family, in the house not far from Grant's head-quarters, which both Thomas and Sherman had occupied as such-a pleasant embowered dwelling, unscathed by the storm of war that swept over the town. He kindly offered to accompany us to all places of interest around Chattanooga; and on the morning after our arrival we were seated with him in his light covered wagon, drawn by his spirited horses, "Joseph Hooker" and "John Brown." We first rode to the summit of Cameron's Hill, an alluvial bluff between the town and the river, which rises to an altitude of about three hundred feet. From its top we had a comprehensive view of the country around, including almost the entire battle-field on Lookout Mountain and along the Mission 1 This shows the elevation of the block-house, with the entrance to its bomb-proof magazine in the mound beneath it. It was constructed of hewn logs from 16 to 20 inches in thickness, with which walls from three to four feet in thickness were constructed. The lower story was pierced for cannon, and the upper story, or tower, for musketry. * See page 152. VOL. III.-12 See page 151. 178 THE CEMETERY AT CHATTANOOGA. aries' Ridge. It received its name from its owner, Mr. Cameron, an artist from Philadelphia, who, in the pleasant wood that covered it, built a house, ruined walls of it may be seen in the foreground of the picture on page 163. From Cameron's Hill we rode to the Cemetery, in the direction of the Missionaries' Ridge, where Chaplain Van Horn officiated at the funeral of the child of a captain at the post. When the solemn service was over we carefully examined the Cemetery grounds and the holy work going on there under the direction of the chaplain. The Cemetery was beautifully laid out in the form of a shield, on an irregular knoll, whose summit is forty or fifty feet above the surrounding plain. It was arranged in sections, the graves close by the side of each other in rows, with graveled walks between. In the center, on the top of the knoll, was a space reserved for a monument, in commemoration of the martyrs whose remains would be around it. The receiving-vault, as we have already observed,' was a natural cave, in which we saw the coffins containing the remains of the Union raiders hung at Atlanta. On the summit just above it, was made the sketch of Orchard Knob and the Missionaries' Ridge, on page 161, at the time of this visit. Then several hundred bodies were already gathered into the Cemetery, and that number of the tenants has since increased to thousands." PLAN OF CEMETERY AT CHATTANOOGA. On Friday morning, Mr. Van Horne took us to the battle-ground of Chickamauga, with which he was well acquainted, having been a participant in the action there, and since then an explorer of it G May 11, 1866. 1 This house was on Walnut Street, near Fort Sherman. It belonged to an Englishman named Richardssa who had espoused the cause of the Confederates. 2 See page 302, volume II. According to the report of the Quartermaster-General, under the title of "Roll of Honor," No. XI. there were, a few months after our visit, 9,628 bodies buried in that cemetery, of whom 2,860 were unknown. Of the whole number, 778 were colored. LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN. 179 in search of the bodies of the dead.' We passed through Rossville Gap, and traveled the Lafayette road, visiting on the way the position of General Thomas, near Kelly's Farm,' and Lee and Gordon's Mill. We rode on to Crawfish Spring, and there, in the cool shadow of the trees, by the side of that wonderful fountain of sweet water, we lunched and rested. Then we returned by another road a part of the way, but again passed through Ross's Gap, when the sketch of the eminent chief's house on page 126 was made. We returned to Chattanooga in time to make a drawing of the superb BLOCK-HOUSE AT CHATTANOOGA. block-house there, near the railway station, the most extensive and beautiful of any built by the National troops. On Saturday we ascended Lookout Mountain by the zigzag road from Chattanooga Valley, a part of the way on foot, and a part in an ambulance kindly furnished us, with horses and a boy-driver, by Captain Wainright, the post quartermaster. It was a slow, tedious, and wearisome journey, and it was late in the afternoon when we reached good quarters at the hotel in Summertown, on the crest of the mountain, where we spent the night, and a greater portion of the next day. We had time before twilight to walk out 1 The bodies were buried here and there, all over the battle-field, where they fell. The method pursued by Mr Van Horne in searching for them, was to have one hundred men move in a line abreast, about three feet apart, through the woods and over the cleared ground where the battle was fought, first marking the graves found, and then disinterring the remains. Having thus swept in one direction, they wheeled, making the man next the space just gone over, the pivot, and in the same manner moving in the other direction. In this way the entire battle-field was traversed. 4 See 5. See map on page 168. 180 SCENERY ON LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN. to the extreme rocky point of the palisades overlooking Chattanooga, and sketch the remains of Stevenson's redoubt; visit the photographic establishment on the verge of the cliff, where we procured many views of the region, and to go to the strong fort of pentagonal form, with a citadel of logs, which was constructed by National troops on the top of the mountain after the Confederates were driven away. On the highest point of the crest, near the fort, was the Confederate signal station, which commanded the Missionaries' Ridge in the range of vision; and the remains of the "signal tower," composed of a tree and a platform, were yet there. On Sunday morning we rode out to the National barracks, on the top of the mountain, where an institution of learning for young men and women was about to be opened, through the liberality of Christopher R. Roberts, of New York, under the charge of the Rev. Edward F. Williams, who, with a corps of teachers, had arrived at Summertown the previous evening. Passing on, we visited the sites of the encampments of the Eighteenth and Nineteenth regular infantry, one of which occupied Rock City, already mentioned. Still farther on, at a distance of about five miles from Summertown, we came to Lula's Creek, and visited the famous Lula's Lake and Falls, and Lula's Bath, in the midst of the forest, and among scenery of the wildest grandeur. That stream, and its picturesque surroundings with Lula's Lake, and Falls, and Bath, were famous in the legends and romances of the Cherokees, which told of the strange events of the life of Lula, a charming Indian maiden. We cannot stop to rehearse them here, and will only record the prosaic fact that we returned to Summertown to dinner, and enjoyed for an hour or more the pleasure of the grand panorama from that point, embracing mountain-peaks, in North Carolina, more than a hundred miles distant; Buzzard's Roost, in the direction of Atlanta; the whole line of the Missionaries' Ridge; the Valley and town of Chattanooga; the winding Tennessee, and the near mountain ranges in every direction. We descended to the valley in time to reach Chattanooga before sunset. On the following morning we went southward by railway, in the track of Sherman's march from Chattanooga to Atlanta. That journey, and our visit to Knoxville and its vicinity, we will consider hereafter. Let us now turn again to the Atlantic coast, and consider events there after the departure of Burnside from North Carolina to join McClellan on the Peninsula, and the seizure of the coasts of South Carolina, Georgia, and Florida, from Edisto Island, a little below Charleston, to St. Augustine.' 2 1 See page 179. This battery commanded Chattanooga; also Moccasin Point, upon which it might throw plunging shot. It was one of the guns of this battery which was dismounted by the one on Moccasin Point, 1,500 feet below, and a mile distant in a straight line, mentioned on page 163. 2 See page 815, volume II. See page 323, volume IL CONFEDERATES ACTIVE IN NORTH CAROLINA. 181 General Burnside left General Foster in command of the troops in North Carolina, and for awhile he had his head-quarters at Morehead City. He soon established them at New Berne, where the bulk of the army was held, and where, in the course of a few weeks, re-enforcements began to arrive. The sea-coast of that State was in possession of the National 'troops, but until near the close of the year" 1862. these were barely suf ficient to hold the terri tory against attempts made by the Confed FOSTER'S HEAD-QUARTERS AT MOREHEAD CITY.1 erates, now and then, to repossess themselves of lost posts. One of these attempts was made at the village of Washington, on the Little Pamlico River, then held by a small land force under Colonel Potter,' and two gunboats (Pickett and Louisiana) lying in the stream near. The post was surprised by Confederate cavalry at early dawn on a foggy Septem8 Sept. 6 ber morning. These swept through the village almost unopposed at first. But the garrison was soon under arms, and, with some troops which had marched out to go to another point, and now returned, sustained a vigorous street-fight with the assailants for nearly three hours, the gun-boats at the same time giving assistance, until the Pickett exploded. The Confederates were finally repulsed, with a loss of thirty-three men killed and one hundred wounded. The Union loss was eight killed and thirty-six wounded. € 1862. Foster was soon satisfied that preparations were making for a vigorous effort to drive him from the posts in his possession, and as re-enforcements were now strengthening his little army, he resolved to strike some aggressive blows that might intimidate his adversaries. Early in November, he moved with the bulk of his army to Washington, and thence marched, by way of Williamson (near which he had a skirmish), for Hamilton, on the Roanoke River, where he expected to find some Confederate armored gun-boats a-building. He was disappointed; so he marched inland toward Tarboro', when, being informed that a force larger than his own was gathered there, he turned oceanward, and made his way to Plymouth, where his troops were embarked for New Berne. Little of importance was accomplished by this expedition, excepting the liberation of several hundred slaves. A little later Foster undertook a more important expedition with a larger force. He set out from New Berne" for the purpose of striking & Dec. 11. and breaking up at Goldsboro', the railway that connected 1 This is a view of the Macon House, where Foster had his head-quarters, on the corner of Arundell and Ninth Streets. Beyond it is seen Bogue Sound and Bogue Island. See page 311, volume II. 2 These were composed of a company of the Third New York Artillery, with 6 guns; six companies of cavalry, two companies of the First North Carolina, and two of the Massachusetts Twenty-fourth. By this explosion nearly twenty persons lost their lives. 4 His force consisted of the brigade of General Wessel, of Peck's division; the brigades of Colonels Amory, |