the first woman ruler of civilized history, and from the amount of trouble she gave Tomes, one of her numerous husbands, the Colonel suggested that he must have been the first henpecked husband of whom any record exists.

The return to Luxor was made leisurely, and it was mid-afternoon when the tourists reached their hotel. They were enthusiastic over what they had seen, and though they did not discover the "one hundred gates," they cheerfully accepted the tradition as well as that of the "twenty thousand chariots of war" with which beautiful Thebes was once credited. Later in the day Roosevelt visited the German consulate, and there was shown a book bearing the signatures of his father and Ralph Waldo Emerson, which were written in 1873.

The railway ride from Luxor to Cairo, which was next undertaken, is 454 miles in length, and the modern capital of Egypt was reached in the early morning of the 24th. Long before daylight the city had been decked with American flags, from the old Arabian Cairo through Ezbeki Garden to the fashionable foreign quarter of Ismailia. For days the one topic of conversation had been the expected arrival of the American statesman and hunter, and in the restaurants, on the streets and in the corridors of the hotels his name was heard continually. Though the season at the hotels was nearly closed, hundreds of Americans and other tourists had remained to greet the travelers. An hour before train time an enormous crowd gathered at the railway station, and there was a good deal of jostling for points of vantage. At the hotel another crowd was waiting and another noisy demonstration was received. The guests at the hotel included many Americans, and from every flagstaff on or near the building the Stars and Stripes were flying.

During the afternoon the state coach called for Mr. Roosevelt and conveyed him to the Abdin Palace, where he was received by Abbas Hilmi, the Khedive of Egypt, this being the first of the royal receptions to the American ex-President.

The following day was devoted to sight-seeing. It was the last day to be spent among the Egyptian antiquities, and at an early hour the enthusiastic traveler was astir. After breakfast he was

called upon by a messenger, who brought the compliments of the Khedive and placed at his disposal a special camel corps. The animals were of the best Bisharin breed, and there was an accompanying guard of soldiers in sand-colored uniforms, with cartridge belts over their shoulders and rifles pendant from their saddles.

Colonel Roosevelt and Kermit mounted camels while Mrs. Roosevelt and her daughter were assisted into a sand cart with broad tires. Preceded by two soldiers on Arabian horses and followed by the camel corps, the party proceeded to the Necropolis, about twenty miles away.

The Sphinx, in its way the most remarkable of the Egyptian antiquities, had been visited the night before, when the soft light of the moon gave it its most fitting illumination. It was therefore quickly passed now, and only the great pyramids rose before them as they rode onward to the ancient Sakkara tombs, which date from 5,000 years in the past.

Descending through the narrow sloping passage cut in the sand Roosevelt entered the dark doorway, from which came hot, dank air, as from a furnace. Across the threshold he plunged into the darkness and silence of the tomb. Each member of the party was furnished with a sputtering candle and conducted through the narrow corridors over flagstones, around fallen debris, past a huge block of granite for an intended sepulchre which had evidently been dropped hastily for some cause now unknown.

Coming to the caverns and walls the guides lowered the candles to show the sarcophagi within which had been interred sacred bulls covered with armored plates of gold. Roosevelt entered one of these vaults. He ascended the ladder and peered into the black interior of one of these sarcophagi, which is twelve feet in length, ten in height and weighs between sixty and seventy tons.

On leaving the tombs, they proceeded to the nearby temple, one which presents probably the best record of Egypt's early art, about 3500 B. C., showing the various occupations and the dress of the inhabitants of that period. Colonel Roosevelt pointed out, depicted on the walls, certain animals which he had seen in Equatorial Africa, but which are now extinct in Egypt.

His attention was called to the figures of men stuffing geese and swan. "But that isn't all," said Egyptologist Watson. "The early Egyptians stuffed hyenas for food." Roosevelt immediately became interested.

"Ate hyenas?" he asked. He was taken to the wall where the proof was shown. "How astonishing," he commented.

While impressed by these antiquities, those which will remain especially in his memory are the tombs of the Kings at Luxor and Karnak and the Sphinx by moonlight. Yet it was easy to see that, while interested profoundly in the monuments of the past, he really was most deeply appealed to by present political and economic conditions. An instance of this was seen in the tomb. A beautifully engraved story on a wall showed a court of law with a native undergoing a beating by officers of justice to induce him to testify.

"The worst corruption of Tammany Hall," said Colonel Roosevelt, was nothing compared to the corruption and tyranny recorded as a matter of course in these hieroglyphics.'

The following day was devoted to Cairo and was a very busy day, receptions, sight-seeing and a lunch with royalty being the order of ceremonies. The morning was given to a reception to the Americans in Cairo, with abundant hand-shaking, cheers, and the singing of the appropriate national song," My Country, 'tis of thee." Colonel Roosevelt, while not making a speech, said that he was glad to see America in the East, and jokingly recalled his remark before leaving America, that "Wall Street expected every lion to do its duty.' "Not a lion did his duty," he now declared, amid the laughter of the throng.

He subsequently visited the antique Elazhar mosque, completed in 973, and later turned into a university. At the "Gate of the Barbers" the visitors were detained until yellow-colored shoes could be tied over their boots, as the feet of infidels are not permitted to desecrate the floors of Mohammedan places of worship or religious study.

Through doorways came the droning of the voices of the students reciting verses from the Koran. He was conducted through various large courts where were professors surrounded by students, to whom

they were lecturing on Mohammedan literature, history, jurisprudence and science.

Everything was based upon the teachings of the Koran in exactly the same way instruction was given almost a thousand years ago, and he was informed that some of the students never leave the university. Many frequently remain forty years. He heard whitebearded Sheiks join with shrill-voiced boys of eight years in reciting the Koran.

The visitor was taken to the library and shown rare old parchment manuscripts in Arabic, many beautifully illuminated, the librarian bringing numerous treasures from hidden recesses.

Colonel Roosevelt asked for the address of a book store, where he could purchase an old copy of the Koran, and then he returned to his hotel. Shortly after his arrival Wally Bey, a Mohammedan, appeared and gave him twelve books of the Koran in Arabic, illuminated in gold. He explained that they were presented because of the colonel's interest in the literature of Mohammedanism. Roosevelt cordially thanked the Bey, and asked the age of the books, which he was told was at least two centuries.

The next event of the day was a visit to the Abdin Palace and luncheon with the Khedive; Mrs. Roosevelt, Kermit and Ethel being present, and also Ambassador Straus and his wife. The ministry of the government was presented, and the Khedive displayed more interest in talking with Roosevelt than he had ever shown in any foreigner. He asked numerous questions on various subjects of local and international importance, and explained at great length the Egyptian situation. The busy day ended with a dinner at the American agency and a reception.

March 27th was the critical day of Roosevelt's visit to Egypt. He succeeded in exploding a rhetorical bombshell which stirred up a mint of trouble and proved that the American ex-President had lost none of his old vim. The event took place during his address before the Cairo University. Its occasion was the Nationalist movement in Egypt to displace British rule and the tragedy to which this had recently led, the assassination of the Premier Butros Pasha, who was hated by the Nationalists for his support of the British administration.

The tragic act was a sore point in Egypt, one avoided by Egyptian and Englishman alike. Though a month had passed since the assassination, the murderer had not been tried, the English, for some reason, hesitating to act promptly. There was no hesitation in Theodore Roosevelt. Murder was murder, and could not be glossed over. Though there were forebodings of trouble if he should refer to this event, they failed to affect him. The pith of his address was in these words:

"All good men, all men of every nation whose respect is worth having, were inexpressibly shocked by the assassination of Boutros Pasha Ghali. It was a greater calamity to Egypt than a wrong to the individual himself.

"The type of man that turns assassin is the type possessing all the qualities which alienate him from good citizenship, the type producing poor soldiers in time of war and worse citizens in time of peace. Such a man stands on the pinnacle of evil and infamy. Those apologizing for or condoning his act by word or deed, directly or indirectly encouraging such an act in advance or defending it afterward, occupy the same bad eminence.

"It is of no consequence whether the assassin is Moslem or Christian, or with no creed, or whether the crime was committed in political strife or industrial warfare. The rich man's hired act, performed by a poor man, whether committed with the pretense of preserving order or of obtaining liberty, is equally abhorrent in the eyes of all decent men and in the long run equally damaging to every cause the assassin professes."

What more he said is of minor consequence. It was these words that stirred up Egypt and England to the bottom. From the Nationalists came hot protests against his words and a mob of students howled denunciations before his hotel. In England there was as great a stir, with varied opinions in the governmental and opposition parties. But the true sentiment of the world at large was that thus expressed by Le Progres, a French journal:

"While violating Oriental rules of politeness in disregarding platitudes, this man has spoken to them, not with words in an empty sense, but calling a cat a cat, calling Wardani an assassin, calling