now runs the northern length of the Cape to Cairo Railway, a dream of Cecil Rhodes, which is now in process of being realized. The Great Victoria Lake is lifted high in the air, almost on a mountain top, for it is higher than the highest mountain in England. From this lofty elevation of nearly four thousand feet the Nile flows ever downward, now descending slowly, now rapidly, the steepest part of its course being that with which we are now concerned. The Albert Nyanza lies at a height of two thousand three hundred feet above sea level, so that in its first two hundred miles the Nile makes more than one-third of its whole descent. This is done in its fall and in two long stretches of rapids, one about thirty miles long below the Ripon Falls, and another of the same length above the Murchison Falls. Between and below these rapids it flows level and smooth, midway in its course running through another large body of water, Lake Chioga, which, like the other two lakes, forms one of the feeders of the Nile. With this necessary explanation, we can go on in our path down the Victoria Nile, the first part of which must be made in a march through the forest to Kakindu, the head of navigation on the Nile; the second part by canoes or motorboats down the stream and across Lake Chioga; the third part again through the forest past the Murchison rapids, and then by boat or through the woods along the lower stream to the Albert Lake. The forest travel of our first stage, from camp to camp, is a customary incident in the life of a Central African traveler. He goes "on safari" as the Boer goes "on trek." "on trek." The British officer, on an official expedition, comes to think of a ten or twenty days "safari" as we would of a journey to Alaska or Hawaii. Instead of making the wearisome journey ourselves, let us follow in the footsteps of a traveler who gives us a graphic and picturesque description of the route. Here is the experience of Winston Churchill, in his forest trip down the stream. After taking a long and lingering look at Ripon Falls he committed himself to the forest depths. The porters had already been long on the road with their burdens and he thus describes the route by which he followed them: "The native path struck northeast from the Nile, and led into a 230 BEAUTIFUL UGANDA AND THE NILE exaggerated forms of greeting similar to those prevailing in China and Japan. And they do not end with verbal signs of good-will, but are kindly in nature and extremely hospitable. Sir Harry Johnstone tells us that when he traversed their kingdom, he would be met by hundreds of people, sent by the local chiefs, and each bearing a bunch of bananas. In some instances cows, goats or sheep would be sent. They would go so far as to send spies into his camp to find out his tastes. In this way they learned that he was very fond of tea between five and six o'clock in the afternoon. Then, judging from his time of starting what point he would reach at this hour, a resting place would be prepared near the road, a table set, and a clean cloth spread on it. At the proper time the kettle would be set boiling, and when he appeared near by the tea would be poured out and handed to him in a shady arbor. In his opinion the Bahima-the aristocracy of Western Uganda -may be descended from the people of ancient Egypt or bear some affinity to them. Though black in complexion and with negro hair, their profile is of the Caucasian type, and the indication is that a people of Hamitic race gradually made their way southward, infused their blood into that of the native tribes, and built up a political system far in advance of that native to the land. From this infusion the people on the west and northwest of the lake gained a refinement of manners and a culture far in advance of those on the opposite side of the lake. Yet the mingling of races has been so complete, and the negro element in it so much in excess, that the modern people of Uganda differ from ordinary negroes in appearance only by having larger and clearer eyes and slightly paler skins. Kampala, the capital of the present king, or Mengo, to use the native name of the king's quarter, is a city of seven hills, each suburb of the straggling town being a separate hill, the sides being often so steep that they cannot be ascended on horseback. Between these hills are marshy bottoms, with streams slowly percolating through them. The inhabited parts of the town, which has a population of about 70,000, are clean and picturesque, from the king's palace to the dwellings of the common people. BEAUTIFUL UGANDA AND THE NILE 229 trolling authority of the British officials, is a system of missionary labor on an unequaled scale. The workers are of different nations and different churches, yet are united in their charitable labors, working together with none of the discord which has at times attended the endeavors of different sects in a single field. At Kampala, the native capital, may be seen on different elevations a Protestant cathedral, a Catholic mission, and a White Father's monastery, each engaged in the same good work in harmony. Dressed in their long white robes, the Baganda people carry their native politeness to an extreme. Sir Harry Johnstone has well called them "the Japanese of Africa. Their system of friendly salutations approaches the ludicrous in its elaborate expressions of regard. Two Bagandas meeting begin to salute each other while still yards asunder. first. "How are you?" cries one. "Who am I that you should care to know?" asks the second. "Humble though I be, yet I have dared to ask," rejoins the "But tell me first how are you?" requests the second. "The better for the honor you have done me," is the ceremonious reply. "The honor is mine and I shall treasure it. By this time they have passed each other, and their expressions of polite good-will die away as they go on. Of course the dialogue may be greatly varied, but the above will suffice for an example. Happiness is easily conferred on a Baganda. Simply say to a native, "Way wally" ("splendidly well done"), likely enough he will fall upon his knees, clasp his hands together and sway them from side to side, while his face beams with the gladdest of smiles, and he purrs forth his delight as if to say, "You have filled to overflowing my cup of joy.' Yet we must not take this as indicating servility. It is simply the Baganda idea of good manners. The people are not wanting in self-respect, and while yielding to the constituted authorities, do so without loss of dignity. Yet it adds an idea of a new type to our conceptions of the native African to find a nation of blacks with |