-a room of china and faïence, of which the king is an ardent collector. Amidst these wonders one table of early date, of polished oak, and ornaments in dark wood, rudely carved with the name of "Gustaff," surpasses everything in interest. This relic of the first Wasa's youthful mischief was preserved as an heirloom, known as "Kong Gosta's bord," for centuries in the Gyllenstjerna family. Ulriksdal, of course, belonged to De la Gardie. Christina taking a fancy to it, Ebba Brahe writes to her son, begging he will resign the palace to the queen, their benefactress. In early days this palace bore the name of Jacobsdal. Charles XI. in his Dagbok, 30th August, notes, "Drog jag till Jacobsdal;" then, "September 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, was I at Ulriksdal;" which may be thus explained: on the 27th, "as was a Wednesday," Prince Ulrik was born, and on his christening day, in commemoration of the event, the name of the palace was changed. "The Charmer," after his marriage, dwelt at Ulriksdal as crown prince. When on a visit to her son, the queen-mother pens a furious letter, complaining how, the escalier de service being closed at nine o'clock, her women had been refused ingress," and there was I left without a maid to undress me. Let it be changed at once-don't be alarmed-I shan't stay too long."

The dull consort, Sophia Madalena, here held her court, which, Charles writes to his brother, when in Italy, "will soon resemble that of Queen Bertha. The queen rides and drives to Carlberg and back again; neither holds receptions nor sees company." On Gustaf's re

*The letters of Sophia Madalena to Gustaf commence at the time of her betrothal "by authority of my late father." The writing is clear, VOL. I. 2 K

turn (1778) she flares up about a projected removal of her son, writing, "Vous souhaitez que nous vivions en amis; c'est à ce titre que je vous parle," followed by a regular row; then, calming down, tells how "my son has given me a collation and a carousal, which diverted me greatly and didn't cost much" (she was awfully stingy); continuing, "I should like to have the wind instruments to play during supper in the orangerie at Ulriksdal, and wait with impatience your answer;"-the sole piece of familiarity she ever took with her husband in pen and ink during her whole lifetime. The orangerie still stands. After parading the garden and lime-alleys we turned back to Stockholm.

We had the honour, during the ensuing spring, of being included in the invitations to a small bal costumé of 150 persons, given by the king at Ulriksdal. The court etiquette of Stockholm is very strict; but when the barrier is passed, in the summer palaces, according to old custom, all ceremony is laid aside— court sleeves, court dress, uniforms, cercles, are dispensed with. The king receives as Count of Ulriksdal, Seigneur des Lieux. Mounting the double staircase, decorated with trophies and armour, we passed into the great Riddarsal-a lofty hall, running the whole height

the style stiff and prudish till after marriage, when every line breathes affection-and nothing else; for duller, stupider letters were never posted. She expresses sorrow at his departure, joy at his return, triumph at his victories, "but not one word of news"--just the sort of missives a man throws into the fire without reading. When king, she commences "Sire;" once alone unbending, adds, "My pleasure and happiness is to have a long talk to my son of papa." So greatly they aped the court of France, when princess she is termed by her ladies Madame Royale. In one epistle she writes to her husband, "Vous ne venez auprès de moi que quand il y a question de danser."

of the palace, with hangings of rich embossed "gulskin," against which stands richly-carved furniture, the whole lighted with garlands of lamps and old massive lustres. From this ball-room diverge two long suites, filled with objects of art innumerable. The fête opened by a Hungarian quadrille, danced by his Majesty, the Queen, Prince Oscar, four charmingly selected court ladies, the wives of the Dutch and Danish ministers and of the Prussian secretary—a fancy ballet prettily conceived, the costume displaying to advantage the splendid person of the king-the cavaliers chosen from among the best-looking officers of the young nobility. When once en train, this mediæval hall, filled with gardes à cheval of Gustaf III.'s time, wearing the white handkerchief around the left arm,* Moors, burgomasters of Wisby, jeux de cartes, and marquises, carried imagination a century back. Old Swedish dances followed in succession: never was ball more gay or host more gracious. During the intervals H. M. did the honours of his collections, showing with the pride of an amateur carvings by Veit Stoss and Albert Dürer-articles once the property of Augustus of Saxony; the new room of china not yet completed, containing, amidst other rarities, a set of fine Mariberg custard-cups, bearing a new mark under the three crowns. When supper was served in the great dining-hall, a low chamber divided by columns, the oak cornice ranged round with "graybeards" and faïence, the scene was prettier than ever. As for the display of

* The badge worn by Gustaf III. and the officers of his guard on the day of the revolution (19th August, 1772).

old Sèvres candelabra, raised flower-pieces, Dresden and Berlin plates and dishes, it was a wicked tempting -not of Providence, but of humankind-to break them.

66

Like the vieille demoiselle in the French book. connue de 13,000 bals," I have seen in my lifetime many a pretty fête, but none so truly "chic" as this bal costume of Ulriksdal.

END OF VOL. I.

LONDON: PRINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET,

AND CHARING CROSS.