from what prevails in any other part of Italy; and nice obfervers imagine they perceive in Milanefe manners the politenefs, formality, and honefty imputed to thofe three nations, blended with the ingenuity natural to Italians. Whatever uneasiness the inhabitants of Milan may feel, from the idea of their being under German government, they feem univerfally pleased with the perfonal character of Count Fermian, who has refided here many years as Minifter from Vienna, equally to the fatisfaction of the Emprefs Queen, the inhabitants of Milan, and the ftrangers who occafionally travel this way.

The Great Theatre having been burnt to the ground last year, there are no dramatic entertainments, except at a small temporary playhouse, which is little frequented; but the company affemble every evening in their carriages on the ramparts, and drive about, in the fame manner as at Naples, till it is pretty late. In Italy, the ladies

have no notion of quitting their carriages at the public walks, and ufing their own legs, as in England and France. On feeing the number of fervants, and the fplendour of the equipages which appear every evening at the Corfo on the ramparts, one would not fufpect that degree of depopulation, and diminution of wealth, which we are affured has taken place within these few years all over the Milanefe; and which, according to my information, proceeds from the burthenfome nature of fome late taxes, and the infolent and oppreffive manner in which they are gathered.

The natural productions of this fertile country muft occafion a confiderable commerce, by the exportation of grain, particularly rice; cattle, cheese, and by the various manufactures of filken and velvet fluffs, ftockings, handkerchiefs, ribands, gold and filver laces and embroideries, woollen and linen cloths, as well as by fome large manufactures of glass, and earthen

earthen ware in imitation of china, which are established here. But I am told monopolies are too much protected here, and that prejudices against the profeffion of a merchant ftill exift in the minds of the only people who have money. These cannot fail to check industry, and deprefs the foul of commerce; and perhaps there is little probability that the inhabitants of Milan will overcome this unfortunate turn of mind while they remain under German dominion, and adopt German ideas. The peafants, though more at their ease than in many other places, yet are not so much fo as might be expected in fo very fertile a country. Why are the inhabitants of the rich plains of Lombardy, where Nature pours forth her gifts in fuch profufion, less opulent than those of the mountains of Switzerland? Because Freedom, whofe influence is more benign than funshine and zephyrs, who covers the rugged rock with foil, drains the fickly fwamp, and clothes the brown heath in verdure; who dreffes

VOL. II.

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the

the labourer's face with fmiles, and makes him behold his increasing family with delight and exultation; Freedom has abandoned the fertile fields of Lombardy, and dwells among the mountains of Switzerland.

LETTER LXXIX.

WE

Chamberry.

E made fo fhort a ftay at Turin that I did not think of writing from thence. I shall now give you a

sketch of our progress since my laft.

We left Milan at midnight, and arrived the next evening at Turin before the fhutting of the gates. All the approaches to that city are magnificent. It is fituated at the bottom of the Alps, in a fine plain watered by the Po. Most of the streets are well built, uniform, clean, ftraight, and terminating on fome agreeable object. The Strada di Po, leading to the palace, the finest and largest in the city, is adorned with porticoes equally beautiful and convenient. The four gates are alfo highly ornamental. There can be no more agreeable walk than that around the ramparts.

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