common people being univerfally fober, and never inflamed with ftrong and fpirituous liquors, as they are in the northern countries. Iced water and lemonade are among the luxuries of the lowest vulgar; they are carried about in little barrels, and fold in half-penny's worth. The half naked lazzarone is often tempted to fpend the small pittance deftined for the maintenance of his family, on this bewitching beverage, as the moft diffolute of the low people in London spend their wages on gin and brandy; fo that the fame extravagance which cools the mob of the one city, tends to inflame that of the other to acts of excefs and brutality.

There is not, perhaps, a city in the world, with the fame number of inhabitants, in which fo few contribute to the wealth of the community by ufeful, or by productive labour, as Naples; but the numbers of priefts, monks, fiddlers, lawyers, nobility, footmen, and lazzaronis, VOL. II. furpafs

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furpass all reasonable proportion; the last alone are computed at thirty or forty thousand. If these poor fellows are idle, it is not their own fault; they are continually running about the ftreets, as we are told of the artificers of China; offering their fervice, and begging for employment; and are confidered, by many, as of more real utility than any of the claffes above mentioned.

LETTER LV.

Naples.

HERE is an affembly once a week at the house of the British minifter; no affembly in Naples is more numerous, or more brilliant, thar this. Exclufive

of that gentleman's good qualities, and thofe accomplishments which procure esteem in any fituation, he would meet with every mark of regard from the Neapolitan nobles, on account of the high favour in which he ftands with their Sovereign. Sir W-'s houfe is open to ftrangers of every country who come to Naples properly recommended, as well as to the English; he has a private concert almost every evening. L-y Hunderstands mufic perfectly, and performs in fuch a manner, as to command the admiration even of the Neapolitans. Sir W

who is the happieft tempered man in the world, and the eafieft amufed, performs alfo, and fucceeds perfectly in amusing himfelf, which is a more valuable attainment than the other.

The Neapolitan nobility are exceffively fond of fplendour and fhow. This appears in the brilliancy of their equipages, the number of their attendants, the richness of their dress, and the grandeur of their titles.

I am affured, that the King of Naples counts a hundred perfons with the title of Prince, and fill a greater number with that of Duke, among his fubjects. Six or feven of thefe have eftates, which produce from ten to twelve or thirteen thoufand pounds a year; a confiderable number have fortunes of about half that value; and the annual revenue of many is not above one or two thousand pounds. With refpect to the inferior orders of nobility, they are much poorer; many

Counts

Counts and Marquiffes have not above three or four hundred pounds a year of paternal eftate, many ftill lefs, and not a few enjoy the title without any estate

whatever.

When we confider the magnificence of their entertainments, the fplendour of their equipages, and the number of their fervants, we are furprised that the richest of them can fupport fuch expenfive eftablishments. I dined, foon after our arrival, at the Prince of Franca Villa's; there were about forty people at table; it was meagre day; the dinner confified entirely of fish and vegetables, and was the most magnificent entertainment I ever faw, comprehending an infinite variety of dishes, a vaft profufion of fruit, and the wines of every country in Europe. I dined fince at the Prince Iacci's. I fhall mention two circumftances, from which you may form an idea of the grandeur of an Italian palace, and the number of domestics which

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