CHAPTER XVI.

Arrival at Naples.-Threatened Quarantine.

"How poor are they that have not patience!"

"AND this is the Bay of Naples !" "Most truly so," responded my friend, Dr. S., who had preceded me to the deck of the steamer, "and a fine sheet of water it is; quite equal, if not superior, to the Bay of New York. Do not you think so?" "I am not prepared to commit myself without a little longer survey," was the reply. We moved gracefully onward, new objects of interest coming at each moment to view, eliciting exclamations of amazement at their grandeur and admiration of their beauty. Stretching far out to sea upon the south, was a neck ending in a cape (Miseno) disjoined from which is the Island of Capri opposite, while, in similar relation to the main land, are the Island of Ischia and Cape Massa-sentinels guarding the entrance to the basin, sixteen miles square, upon the eastern side of which stands Naples. This city, with Vesuvius sending up its ceaseless column of dull and heavy smokethe Castle St. Elmo and Cathedral, cultivated fields and gardens, villas following each other in rapid succession, united in forming a landscape of rare beauty. "What words can be used to analyze the parts and details of this matchless panorama, or unravel the magic web of beauty, into which palaces, villas, forests, gardens, vineyards, the mountain and the sea, are woven? What pen can paint the soft curves, the gentle undulations, the flowing outlines, the craggy steeps, and the far-seen heights, which, in their com

Difference of Opinion.

Unexpected Trials.

bination, are so full of grace, and at the same time, expression? Words here are imperfect instruments, and must yield their place to the pencil and the engraver."

Such was the view that encircled us, as we approached the locality, respecting which my friend asked whether I did not think it far superior to the Bay of New York? With apologies for presuming to differ from one of admitted taste, I was compelled to record my vote in the negative, an opinion justified by the view of the latter upon the evening of my return, than which I challenge all realms to offer one more worthy of admiration. But " comparisons are odious;" so we drop them, and yield to the scenery before us a heart overflowing with delight. And now we are about to anchor, thankful that we have reached the termination of our long journey, and joyful at thought of again setting foot upon reliable and human "terra firma!" But an incident occurred which for a time overshadowed our bright sky, enveloping our spirits in a cloud of very discomforting apprehensions. A government craft was at once alongside, with the announcement that a quarantine of ten days had been declared upon all vessels sailing from Marseilles, because of the cholera in the latter city! If our spirits did fall—our faces elongate-our lips utter words of indignation, the occasion must plead our justification. Think of it, kind reader; we had been four days upon the unstable Mediterranean, each hour bringing with it no little anxiety lest the next might be stormy, nauseous and harmful, the post of destination is reached, and we at anchor but a stone's cast from the shore,-no sickness on board and none at all unusual in the city we left, and yet obliged to remain cooped up in a little cabin six days, looking upon distant localities we came

Strife for Liberty.

to visit, and longed to see, and with nothing to do but walk the deck, talk over our troubles, and berate king F. and all his councillors. But as such measures were only as the beatings of a caged lion against his prison bars, we adopted another method, far wiser and more successful. Our captain took the lead in sending to the government officers a remonstrance against an outrage so great as this detention and threatening the malediction of "la grande nation" and a speedy visit from a man-of-war, if we were not at once let loose-the detention of a French steamer in this way being an insult not to be endured with impunity. Following this, was an address to the English Consul, penned by the British passengers, and signed by us; while last, but not least in probable effect, my friend Dr. S. enclosed a letter of introduction he held from Adjutant-General Cushing to Mr. Owen, the guardian of American interests, begging his interposition in our behalf. Thus the three great powers of Christendom were brought to bear upon the Neapolitan Sovereign, to induce an immediate opening of our prison doors. First returned was a letter from Mr. Owen, who regretted most sincerely our situation, but feared that he could not aid us in the matter, with rulers so lost to all reason and righteousness as those of Naples. The British resident replied that not an effort should be spared to secure our release; and the captain assured us that if they did not let him pass, they would "catch it!" But still, there we were. It was the Sabbath, and yet no rest to our troubled spirit. We tried to be resigned-but the exclamation, "too bad," would escape our lips. Noon came—one -two-three o'clock, and no hope. We paced the deck, and looked with deepest earnestness and faint hope toward

Happy Release.

Ashore.

the shore. A boat appeared in the distance. Is it coming to us? No; it passes quietly under our stern to another vessel. A second appears-a third-a score came—and went, and yet not one to us, except that now and then, a government officer would observe that we were there for six days at least, and were at liberty to remain on board, or go to the Lazzaretto. But what is that? Another boat-and it nears us. An officer at our side exclaims, "We are free; we are free!" making as low a salutation as the most polite Hindoo. An Englishman threw up his cap, and gave three cheers, to which if we did not respond, it was entirely out of respect to the day. A Hungarian gentleman at my side exclaimed in broken English, "You Americans can now understand something of the joy of escaping from prison !" The change that passed over that company, is left for the reader to imagine. A permit to land was at once given us, and we prepared to tread the Neapolitan soil. The next morning found the Gazette containing the notification that from henceforth, until farther orders, no vessel should, under any circumstances, be exempted from the quarantine regulation. But a few days since I met a lady who chanced, with her party, to visit Naples a few days later, and was obliged to remain a week in quarantine. Her description of its dolefulness, desolation and distress, justified the deep concern we felt at our imprisonment, and pleasure at release. Right well did we relish our last dinner. Sincere were our praises of the fine steamer and her skillful commander, and with our uttered thanks to Him who had brought us in safety to this far distance from our western home, we landed, and found very eligible rooms in the "Hotel Victoria!" a commodious and well-located establishment overlooking the Bay on one side, and the Villa Reall on the other.

CHAPTER XVII.

Neapolitan Beggars.-Efficient Weapon of Defence.-Fourfold

Classification of City Dwellers.

When beggars grow thus bold,

No marvel then though charity grow cold.

A MEMORABLE Morning was that passed in the bay of Naples, and hardly less so, the first half hour spent upon its shore. In the wake of the welcome officer who gave us a permit to leave the vessel, were a dozen boatmen offering their services to see us safe to land. We selected a craft which seemed commodious, and were speedily standing on "terra firma," when Did you ever, courteous reader, pass the Montezuma marshes during a still, warm summer evening, upon the deck of a canal boat? Did you ever attempt to make your way without shoe or stocking, through the bogs of Okefenokee Swamp? If so, then for mosquitoes and leeches, substitute BEGGARS, and you have the filling up of the sentence left incomplete above. Had we been an assailing army, instead of a few harmless travelers, a more determined resistance could hardly have been offered than that which met us as we disembarked upon the beach. Our money they would have or we should not proceed. But by dint of certain significant references to canes and like instruments of chastisement, we made our way to a public carriage, and stepped aboard. But we found that taking our seats and going ahead, were far from convertible terms, or rather that