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LETTER LXX.-Sketch of Monte Albano-Shores of the Alban LakeExcursion to Lake Nemi-Pompey's Prison-Museum of Antiquities-Grotto-Ferrata-Frascati-Ruins of Tusculum-Modern Palaces-Return to

Rome.

. 297

LETTER LXXI.-Sketch of Rome resumed-Description of St. Peter's Church.

LETTER LXXII.-Rome continued-Vatican-Sala Regia--Sistine Chapel-Last Judgment of Michael Angelo-Paoline Chapel-Galleries and Chambers of Raphael-Collection of Pictures.

.306

LETTER LXXIII.-Rome continued-Vatican Museum-Library-Garden-Sketch of the present Pope.

LETTER LXXIV.-Rome continued-Pope's Cathedral-Public Festival-Baptistery-Scala Santa-Church of Santa Maria Maggiore-St. Mary of the Angels-Monte Testaccio-Tomb of Caius Cestius-Protestant Cemetery-Excursion to St. Paul's of the Three Fountains.

LETTER LXXV.-Rome continued-Tomb of Tasso-Corsini PalaceMount Janiculum-Fourtain of Paul V.-Villa Doria Pamfili-Doria Palace -Scene upon the Corso-Palazzo Rospigliosi-Guido's Aurora-Gallery.

LETTER LXXVI.-Rome continued-Nero's Tower-Villa AlbaniStudio of Trentanove-Borghese Palace-Excursion to Mons Sacer-Canonization of a new Saint-Sunday in Rome-Spada and Farnese Palaces-Villa Borghese-Finale of the Pope's Saint.

LETTER LXXVII.-Rome continued-Barberini Palace-Studio of Canova-Thorwaldsen-Colonna Palace-Michael Angelo's Statue of Moses— Studio of Camuccini-Sciarra Palace-Anniversary of St. John-Palazzo Farnesina-Jews at Rome-Villa Mattei-Church of St. Stephen-Studio of Landi and Cavaliere.

318

327

338

347

. 354

LETTER LXXVIII.--Rome concluded--Festival of St. Peter--illumination of his Church-Fireworks of St. Angelo-Monte Cavallo-Temple of the Sun -Massimi Palace-A Summer Day in Rome-Mal'aria-Ceremony of taking the Veil-Theatres-Academy of St. Luke-Skull of Raphael-Celebration of the Fourth of July-American Consul.

. 364

LETTER LXXIX.-Departure from Rome-Falls of the Velino-Return to Florence-Climate-Manners of the People-Public AmusementsCharacter of the Government.

LETTER LXXX.-Florence continued-Productive Industry of Tuscany -Manufacture of Silks-Straw Hats-Public Institutions-Education-Ascendency of the Priesthood-Religious Processions-A Living Saint-Theatres-Opera―The Goldoni-Academy of Fine Arts-Reading-Room—Italian Newspapers.

LETTER LXXXI.-Excursion to the Baths of Lucca-Pistoia-Pescia -Vale of the Serchio-Arrival at the Baths-Scorpions-Sketch of Scenery Hot Springs-Buonvisi-Count Demidoff-Theatre-Balls-Casino-Corso-Ponte Serraglio.

373

383

392

400

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LETTER LXXXII.-Departure from Florence-Trespiano-Passage of the Apennines-Scenery-Pietra Mala—Arrival at Bologna-Sketch of the City—Fountain of John di Bologna-Church of St. Petronius-Palazzo Pubblico-Cathedral-Gallery-Shrine of St. Dominick-Monte Nola-University-Campo Santo-Chiesa del Servi-Theatre.

. . 410

LETTER LXXXIII.-Departure from Bologna-Ride to Ferrara-Environs-Sketch of the City-Library-Tomb of Ariosto-Manuscripts-Hospital of St. Anna-Prison of Tasso-Ducal Palace-House of Ariosto-Chapel of Benedictines-Certosa-Santa Maria in Vado-Cathedral-Departure from Ferrara-Passage of the Po-Scenery of its Banks-Austrian CustomHouses-Rovigo-The Adige-Monselice-Arrival at Padua.

LETTER LXXXIV.-Excursion to Arqua-Tomb and last Residence of Petrarch--Sketch of Padua-Church of St. Anthony-Santa Justizia-Hospital for Invalids-Observatory-Birth-place and Tomb of Livy-University— Tomb of Antenor-Ride down the Brenta-Arrival at Venice-First view of the City.

LETTER LXXXV.-Venice continued-Rialto-Santa Teresa-Square of St. Mark's Church-Bronze Horses-Campanile-View of the City and Islands-Ducal Palace-Ancient Halls-Bridge of Sighs-Dungeons-MintPublic Garden-Greeks at Venice.

LETTER LXXXVI.-Venice concluded-Old Arsenal-Navy YardBucentaur-Excursion to the Lido-Armenian School-Churches-Tomb of Titian-Palaces and Pictures-Academy of Fine Arts-Mausoleum of Canova -Amusements-Theatre.

422

. 431

442

451

LETTER LXXXVII.--Return to Padua-Ride to Vicenza-Sketch of the Town-Arrival at Verona-Opera-Excursion to Lago di Garda-Peschiera -The Mincio-View of the Lake-Sermione-Religious Festival-Description of the Peninsula-Catullus-Banditti-Sketch of Verona-Amphitheatre -Public Palace-Philharmonic Academy-Holy Alliance-Arch of Vitruvius-Sarcophagus of Juliet-Tombs of the Scaligers-Churches-Great Men. 461 LETTER LXXXVIII.-Ride to Mantua-Dangers of the Road-Austrian Code-Villafranca-Banks of the Mincio-First view of Mantua-Excursion to Andes-Reminiscences of Virgil-Corso of the City-Amusements-Piazza Virgiliana-Tomb and last Residence of Julio Romano-Ducal PalaceTorre Della Gabbia-Route to Cremona-Cathedral-Campanile—Sketch of the City.

LETTER LXXXIX.-Route to Lodi-Banks of the Adda-Description of the Bridge-Arrival at Milan-Aspect of the City-Sketch of the Cathedral-Architecture-View from the Cupola-Interior-Tradition of St. Ambrose-Tomb of San Carlo Borromeo-Celebration of the Jubilee-Palace of the Viceroy-Reminiscences of Napoleon.

470

• 480

LETTER XC.-Milan continued-Forum of Napoleon-Castle-Campus Martius-Amphitheatre-Arch of the Simplon-Gate of Marengo-Corso-Public Garden-Military Academy-Hospitals-Ambrosian Library— Gallery Fresco of the Last Supper-Lita Palace-The Brera-Academy of Fine Arts.

491

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LETTER XCI.-Milan concluded-Churches-Chapel of the DeadFestival of St. Thomas-Jesuits-Opera-Minor Theatres-Environs—Villa of Napoleon-Excursion to Monza-Imperial Gardens-Palace-Cathedral -Iron Crown of Lombardy.

LETTER XCII.-Departure from Milan-Arrival at Como-First view of the Lake-Sketch of the Scenery-Excursion to the Villa d'Este-The late Queen of England-Description of Pliniana-Route to Lake MaggioreVerese-Banks of the Ticin-Arona-Colossus of San Carlo-Sketch of Maggiore-Borromean Isles-Excursion to Isola Bella-Ride to Domo d'Ossola.

. 500

LETTER XCIII.-Departure from Domo d'Ossola-Passage of the Simplon-Description of the Road-Bridge of Crevola—Alpine Scenery-Old Path-Monks-Refuges-Hamlets-Avalanches-Village of Simplon-View from the Summit of the Mountain-Glaciers of Switzerland-Torrents of the Ganter and Saltine-Arrival at Brigue.

507

. 519

LETTER XCIV.-Departure from Brigue-Vale of the Rhone-Sketch of its Scenery-Alps and Glaciers-Fertility-Population—Buildings-Villages and Hamlets-Viege-Tourtemagne-Cascade-Sion-Martigny-St. Maurice-First view of the Lake of Geneva-St. Gingoux-Rocks of Meillerie-Southern Shore of the Lake-Evian-Thonon-Distant view of Mont Blanc-Arrival at Geneva.

LETTER XCV.-Excursion to Ferney-Egress of the Rhone-Environs of Geneva-Village of Voltaire-Description of his Chateau-Shore of the Lake-Copet-Tombs of Necker and Madame de Stael-Nyon-Excursion to Vevay--Sketch of the Town-Clarens-Chillon-Ride to LausanneReminiscences of Gibbon-Description of the Town.

LETTER XCVI.-Return to Geneva--Sketch of the City-View from the Water-Aspect of the Streets and Buildings-Hotel de Ville--Legislative Halls-Political State of Switzerland--Cathedral--Reminiscences of Calvin -Museum-Botanic Garden-Defences of the City-College--Library--Hospital-Athenæum--Panorama of Switzerland-Birth-place of Rousseau -Excursion to the Junction of the Rhone and Arve-Departure from Geneva―Jura Alps—Last view from their Summits.

CONCLUSION.

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557

LETTERS FROM EUROPE.

LETTER XLV.

ROUTE TO TOULON-SKETCH OF THE TOWN AND HARBOUR-NAVYYARD ARSENAL.

March, 1826.

veau.

Ar 6 o'clock on the morning of the 13th, we took seats in the Diligence at Marseilles for Toulon, a distance of about forty miles, in a south-easterly direction. Our own party consisted of five Americans, who had the same objects in view as ourselves. Among the other passengers was a German Countess, whom we had met in a circle of agreeable ladies and gentlemen at the table d'hote of the Hotel BeauShe was going to Toulon, there to embark on board of a French ship of war, which was to land her at Civita Vecchia, on her way to Rome an odd expedition for a lady to undertake alone. Her conversation respecting the country, whither we were hastening and in which she had long resided, was highly instructive; while her hospitality led her to impart a share of the provisions she had taken for her journey, consisting among other things of a kind of portable chocolate, made into little wafers and eaten with bread.

The tract of country between Marseilles and Toulon is extremely picturesque. For the whole distance an excellent road winds among calcareous hills, the white, craggy tops of which appear at a distance as if snow-clad. Their steep sides are covered with vineyards and olives, hanging upon terraces, and rising stage above stage; while between the ranges on either hand, fertile and sunny vales of moderate breadth, and cultivated with the utmost neatness, open successively to relieve the eye of the traveller. Villages, hamlets, and chateaux, sometimes occupying the bosom of the valleys and at others seated far up the acclivities of the mountains, are scattered along the way and con

VOL. II.