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death was hastened by his intemperate habits. His memoirs were written by William Dunlap in 1812, and notes of his conversation and many incidents of his life and associates in New York are contained in Dunlap's novel of "Thirty Years Ago" (1836). He is buried in St. Paul's churchyard, New York, where a monument was erected to his memory by Edmund Kean in 1821.

erly point of America and its distance from Asia, reached the point still known by the name he gave it, Icy cape, Aug. 18, 1778, and did not turn back till the end of the month, when he found it impossible to proceed. Returning to the Sandwich islands to prepare for another attempt northward the next year, he discovered Hawaii, the largest of the group, and Maui. He cruised about Hawaii several weeks, and found the natives peaceably disposed, but addicted to stealing. One of his boats being stolen on the night of Feb. 13, 1779, he determined to seize the person of the king and hold him until the property was restored. Going ashore for the purpose on the 14th, with a lieutenant and nine men, he aroused the suspicions of the natives, and a fight ensued in which he was killed. The body, and those of several marines who were slain, were afterward cut up and probably devoured, only the bones of the great navigator being recovered by the expedition seven days later. These were deposited in a coffin, and buried in the sea. After another unsuccessful attempt in Behring strait, the expedition returned home by way of China. Cook's widow received a pension of £200 per annum, and each of his children £25. An account of his last voyage was prepared from his journal, and COOKE. I. John Rodgers, an American jurist, a continuation of it by Lieut. King. The charts born in Bermuda in 1788, died in Richmond, and plates illustrating it were executed at the Va., Dec. 10, 1854. During a professional caexpense of the government, and half the pro-reer of more than 40 years, he was concerned fits of the work were bestowed on the family in nearly all the great causes carried to the of the navigator. higher courts of Virginia. He served in the legislature in 1814, and in 1829 was a member of the convention which framed the constitution of Virginia, serving on the committee of seven, including Chief Justice Marshall, exPresident Madison, John Randolph, Watkins Leigh, and others, who made the draft of that instrument. II. Philip Pendleton, an American poet, son of the preceding, born at Martinsburg, Va., Oct. 26, 1816, died Jan. 20, 1850. He graduated at Princeton college in 1834, and returning to Virginia, studied law in the office of his father, was admittted to the bar, and married before he was 21. At college the greater portion of his time had been given to the study of poetry and belles-lettres, and he always took more pleasure in literary pursuits than in his profession. He published several poems in the "Knickerbocker" magazine, and on the establishment of the "Southern Literary Messenger" became one of its contributors. His only publication in book form was "Froissart Ballads and other Poems" (1847). At the time of his death he was publishing serially the "Chevalier Merlin," a historical prose poem. III. John Esten, an American author, brother of the preceding, born at Winchester, Va., Nov. 3, 1830. After the removal of his family to Richmond in 1839 he was sent to school, and finally prepared himself for the bar, to which he was admitted in 1851. Having contributed stories and sketches to various periodicals, he published a novel, "Leather

COOKE, George Wingrove, an English lawyer and author, born in Bristol about 1814, died at Chelsea, June 18, 1865. He studied at the London university, in Oxford, and at the Middle Temple, and was called to the bar in 1835. He was for a time the political editor of the "Atlas" newspaper, and in 1857-'8 was a special correspondent of the "Times" in China. In 1850 and 1851 he was an unsuccessful candidate for parliament. In 1863 he was appointed tithe, copyhold, and enclosure commissioner, in which department he had previously been long employed as a lawyer. Besides several legal works, he published "Memoirs of Lord Bolingbroke " (1835), “Life of the Earl of Shaftesbury" (1836), "History of Party" (1836), "Inside Sebastopol " (1856), "China in 1857-'8” (1858), and "Conquest and Colonization of North Africa" (1860).

COOKE, George Frederick, an English actor, born in Westminster, April 17, 1755, died in New York, Sept. 26, 1812. His father, an Irish captain of dragoons, died soon after his birth, and his mother removed to Berwick-uponTweed, where he was placed at school, and afterward apprenticed to a printer. Conceiving a strong passion for the stage, he indulged it for some time in private, and first appeared as a professed actor at Brentford in 1776, as Dumont in the tragedy of "Jane Shore." He performed at the Haymarket in London in 1778, without attracting attention, and after being a member of several provincial companies first attained popularity at Manchester in 1784. In 1794 he joined the Dublin company, became the hero of the stage at Dublin, Cork, and Manchester, and in 1800 accepted an engagement at Covent Garden, London, where he appeared with decided success as Richard III. For ten years he was the rival of John Kemble, and played both in tragedy and comedy in the largest cities of Great Britain. His most popular characters were those of Richard III., Shylock, lago, Sir Giles Overreach, Kitely, and Sir Pertinax Macsycophant. In 1810 he sailed for America, and on Nov. 21 appeared as Richard III. in the Park theatre, New York. He subsequently acted in Philadelphia, Baltimore, and other cities, attracting large audiences, whom he annoyed by his capricious conduct and astonished by his wonderful acting. His

Stocking and Silk" (1854), which was almost immediately followed by "The Youth of Jefferson" and "Virginia Comedians." In 1855 appeared “Ellie, or the Human Comedy," in 1856 "The Last of the Foresters," and two years later "Henry St. John, Gentleman." This series of fiction presents many phases of life in Virginia. During the civil war he served on the staff of different confederate generals until the close of the contest, and wrote a "Life of Stonewall Jackson " (1866). He resides on a farm near Winchester, Va. His later works are: "Wearing of the Gray (1867); "Mohun, or the Last Days of Lee and his Paladins" (1868); "Hilt to Hilt, or Days and Nights in the Shenandoah" (1869); "Hammer and Rapier " (1870); "Out of the Foam" and "Life of Robert E. Lee" (1871); "Doctor Vandyke" (1872); and "Her Ma- | jesty the Queen" (1873).

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COOKERY, the preparation of food by dressing, compounding, and the application of heat. Posidonius was of opinion that the culinary art followed immediately the discovery of fire, and that it was at first an imitation of the natural process of mastication and digestion. There are frequent allusions to cooking in the Bible and in the oldest writings of all nations. In the East, the land of spices, the taste was first tempted by carefully wrought compositions and condiments, and the first great feasts were given. It was the custom of the ancient Egyptians, as at present in oriental and tropical climates, to cook the meat as soon as killed, with the view of having it tender. Beef and goose constituted the principal part of the animal food, though the kid, goat, gazelle, duck, teal, and quail were also well known. Mutton was excluded from a Theban table, and Plutarch says that no Egyptians except the Lycopolites would eat the flesh of sheep. The blood of animals was frequently received into a vase for purposes of cookery, and black puddings were popular in Egypt, as they afterward were in modern Europe, to the horror of the Moslems. Large supplies of fish were obtained from the Nile and Lake Moris, and were brought to the table whole, boiled or fried, the tail and fins being removed. Herodotus says no Egyptian would taste the head of any species of animal. The vegetables which abound in Egypt made a large part of the ordinary food; they were eaten raw, stewed, boiled, or roasted in ashes. Bread was made either of wheat or of barley, and the dough was sometimes kneaded with the feet in a wooden bowl on the ground. Pastry was made to represent any object, according to the fancy of the confectioner, and was sprinkled with seeds of caraway, cummin, or sesame. The Greeks raised every department of cookery to a high art. In the Homeric age royal personages prepared their own meats. Menelaus at the marriage feast of Hermione placed before the guests with his own hands the roasted side of an ox. Achilles, with the assistance of Patroclus, feasted the

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Argive leaders upon the shoulders of lambs, a fat doe, and a succulent pig, which were broiled on live coals and garnished with the entrails of oxen; dishes, according to Athenæus, consecrated to the gods, and usual at all the feasts of the brave." They were contented in that age with plain roasts, seldom boiling their meat or dressing it with sauces. Professional cooks had come into existence before the of Pericles. They could serve up a whole pig dexterously boiled on one side, roasted on the other, and stuffed with flavored and spiced thrushes, eggs, and various delicacies, so that the guest could not discover where the animal had been divided. To invent a popular cake or a poignant sauce was a worthy object of ingenuity and erudition. Aristoxenus after many trials succeeded in a peculiar way of seasoning hams, which were hence called Aristoxenians; as afterward the Roman Apicius, one of the three gastronomers of that name, devised a sort of cakes which were termed Apicians. Nearly all the Athenian dishes were prepared with a mixture of asafoetida or rue, and one of the most popular was a composition of cheese, garlic, and eggs. The Greeks and Romans extracted delicacies from the tough membranous parts of the matrices of sows, the flesh of young asses and young hawks, and from a great variety of sea fish, as the dog fish, star fish, porpoises, seals, and especially from two species termed the echinus and the glociscus. The Syracusans were especially noted for their culinary successes, while the Spartans, despising luxury of all kinds, had the term of reproach "to live like a Syracusan." A certain Sybarite, after tasting the Lacedæmonian black broth, declared himself no longer astonished that the Spartans were so fearless of death in battle, since the pains of dissolution were preferable to those of existence on such execrable food. The poet Archestratus, a culinary philosopher of Syracuse, travelled through the most fertile lands known to the ancients, crossing many seas, and passing through many dangers and hardships, in order to add edibles and potables from every climate to the Greek table luxuries. His "Gastrology," a didactic poem in which he promulgated the results of his researches, became the authoritative creed of Greek epicures. It was a favorite exercise of accomplished cooks, when rare and choice fish were wanting, to imitate their flavor, taste, and form so closely from inferior varieties that the most experienced gourmand could not distinguish the fraud. The Greeks excelled in sweetmeats, fruits, and the artistic ornaments and order of an entertainment, but the Romans in the more solid dishes. Simplicity of tastes and severity of manners disappeared during the latter part of the Roman republic, and under the empire luxurious gluttonies were indulged in at almost fabulous cost.-The more common Roman delicacies were pheasants, beccaficos, quails, partridges, oysters, sea eels, and Cecubian and Falernian wines. Rare fishes and birds were

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objects of special luxury, and after Rome had enacted limiting its consumption. In the manlearned from every neighboring country their sions of the wealthier patricians, the kitchens best devices of cookery, native productions were magnificently furnished with marble were despised, while at a single festival there floors, pictures, and a profusion of ornaments. would be served up peacocks from Samos, The culinary utensils, as gridirons, colanders, chickens from Phrygia, kids from Melos, cranes and dripping pans, were of bronze plated with from Etolia, tunny fishes from Chalcedon, silver; and the saucepans were of brass or earthpikes from Pessinus, oysters from Tarentum enware, or sometimes of silver. Every article and Britain, mussel fishes from Chios, and dates of food was served in bronze chafing dishes, from Egypt, with various foreign condiments. "in order," says Seneca, "that no viand should Some fishes were so costly that Cato once de- be chilled." During the latter period of the clared that "a city cannot endure in which a empire there were not only schools of cookery, fish is sold for more than an ox." Curious in which accomplished cooks acted as profesartificial means were employed of raising deli- sors, but a profession was also instituted for cacies for the table. According to the elder the purpose of teaching the young patricians Pliny, snails were sometimes fattened till their "how to masticate." The most curious relic shells would contain several quarts. Geese, of ancient literature on the subject is the Deippeacocks, and fish were raised upon nourish- nosophista, or "Banquet of the Learned," of ment specially adapted to temper them as food, Athenæus, containing philosophical discussions and swine were fattened on whey and figs. on the history and quality of nearly every dish The supper, which was their principal meal, known to the Romans.-After the descent of consisted of three courses: the first, of soups, the barbarians southward in the 5th century, lettuce, eggs, and honeyed wines; the second, cookery, like learning, retired into convents. of solid meats, ragouts, broiled viands, and fish; The good cheer of the monks and the secular and the third, of crude fruits, preserves, tarts, clergy at that period, and in the centuries imand sweet dishes; the meals thus, according to mediately succeeding, is frequently alluded to a common saying, "beginning with eggs and in the early European poems and romances. ending with apples," whence the whole dura- In the 10th century refined cookery reappeared tion of anything was expressed by the phrase in Genoa, Venice, Florence, Milan, and other ab oro usque ad mala. Lucullus gave feasts on free cities of Italy, in which great fortunes had a scale of inordinate magnificence, expending been made by commerce. It became more upon each 50,000 denarii (about $8,000). Galba widely cultivated at the period of the renaisbreakfasted before daybreak at an expense suffi-sance, and flourished with eloquence, poetry, cient to enrich a hundred families. Vitellius composed a single dish which cost 1,000 sesterces (about $40,000), of the brains of pheasants and peacocks, the tongues of nightingales, and the livers of the most precious fish; he once entertained his brother on 7,000 birds and 2,000 choice fishes; and his culinary expenses for four months amounted to about $25,000,000. The favorite supper of Heliogabalus was the brains of 600 thrushes. The favorite meat of the later Romans was pork, which held the place of honor on every luxurious table. "Hog in Trojan style" was, according to Macrobius, the masterpiece of the greatest artists. It was inherited from the Greeks, and was named from the circumstance that its interior contained myriads of thrushes, ortolans, and beccaficos, an image of the armed hosts enclosed in the Trojan horse. The manner of preparing it, long known to few, at length became public. The animal, after being bled under the shoulder, was hung up, and its intestines were drawn out through the throat; these were thoroughly washed, filled with hashed meat and a thick gravy, and then forced back into the body, which was also stuffed with small game. Half of it was then baked, the other half being covered and protected by a thick paste of barley meal, mixed with wine and oil; and the latter half was afterward boiled in a shallow saucepan. Young pigs were in especial demand, and pork, cooked in numerous styles, was eaten to such an extent that sumptuary laws were

and painting, under the protection of the houses
of Este and Medici, of Leo X. and the car-
dinals. The discovery of America and of the
passage to the East Indies around the Cape of
Good Hope contributed much to its develop-
ment by enlarging the number of gastronomic
productions, and especially by furnishing bet-
ter seasoning than had before been known..
The ancients had made use chiefly of cummin,
mint, saffron, garlic, and oxymel; to these were
now added cinnamon from Ceylon, vanilla from
Mexico, cloves and nutmegs from the Molucca
islands, pepper from Java, and allspice from
the Caribbees. In the reign of Henry II. the
elegant delicacies of Italian cookery were in-
troduced into France by the train of cooks
which followed Catharine de' Medici. About
the same time several northern cities distin-
guished themselves by their gastronomic spe-
cialties: Mentz and Hamburg, by their hams;
Strasburg, by lard and smoked sausages; Am-
sterdam, by herrings; Hamburg, by smoked
beef; Ostend, by oysters; Périgueux, by truf-
fles; and Chartres and Ruffec, by pies.
Britons were generally simple in their diet,
with no higher culinary attainment than that
of bruising their grain in a mortar; the Saxons
were likewise savages in gastronomy, rejoicing
in distilled barley and half-cooked game; the
Danes were more hospitable, voracious, and
bibacious, carousals being almost a part of their
religion; but the Normans were the first to in-

The

troduce in Britain the delicate refinements of

the art. The chief cook and his subordinates were officers of high consequence in the train of William the Conqueror. The monasteries of England were soon after famous for their luxuries, and in the reign of Henry II. the friars of St. Swithin complained to the king that the abbot had withdrawn three of the thirteen courses usually accorded them. Chaucer in his "Canterbury Tales" often mentions the good fare and skilful tastes of the clergy. In 1541 Archbishop Cranmer determined to regulate the culinary expenses of the clergy by an edict, and limited the archbishops to six dishes of meat (or of fish on fish days), the bishops to five, and the lower orders to four or three. The number of fowls and fish to be served in a dish was also detailed. The English nobility began to rival the Romans in expensive entertainments soon after the return of the crusaders, who during their travels had been made acquainted with oriental luxuries. Among the choicest dishes of that era was the peacock, generally served with the feathers of the tail unplucked and spread out to their fullest extent. In the reign of Elizabeth the medieval style of cookery attained its zenith. Cooks were then classical scholars, and the heathen divinities were represented at every festival. Shortly after the Elizabethan period, a considerable alteration took place in the domestic economy of the nobility. Early hours and stricter habits were enjoined.-In France, the Gauls when first discovered subsisted chiefly on acorns and roots. Conquered by Cæsar, they speedily acquired the habits of their victors; and the Normans early attained great proficiency in the arts of luxury. In the latter part of the 14th century flourished the celebrated Taillevant, chef de cuisine for Charles V. and VI., from whom we have the recipe for a famous dish of that epoch called galimafrée: "Dismember a chicken, and cook it with wine, butter, verjuice, salt, pepper, nutmeg, thyme, laurel, and onions. When sufficiently cooked, add to the gravy some cameline" (a sauce composed of butter, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, grains of paradise, bread crumbs, and aromatic vinegar). Spices being very expensive at that period, a great consumption was made of them through vanity. In the reign of Louis XII. a company of sauciers obtained a monopoly for making sauces; and a company of rôtisseurs, for cooking meats on the spit. French cookery was of a sumptuous character in the reign of Louis XIV., and the table of the king rivalled in delicacy that of the great Condé, over which presided Vatel, who in despair at the tardiness of a dish committed suicide, and whose eulogy was written by Mme. de Sévigné. In the reign of Louis XV., especially under the regency, flourished Sabatier, Robert, Laguipierre, and other masters of the art, who introduced salutary improvements. Small supper entertainments, models of delicacy, savor, and elegance, and without superfluous show, came into fashion,

and the great houses established what was termed the petite cuisine, which is still flourishing. The era of the revolution threatened to abolish with the privileges of the nobles the refinements of cookery, and famed culinary artists found themselves suddenly turned into the street. They instituted restaurants, which were received with favor by the citizens, and in which the art made progress under the directory and the consulate, till it was revived with new splendor in wealthy houses under the empire. Among the most illustrious recent French cooks are Boucher, Lasnes, Leiter, Delauny, Borel, Véry, Soyer, and Carême. The last converted the art into a science, made taste yield to chemistry, and the kitchen became instead of a workshop a laboratory. His works on the art of cookery are unrivalled.— The natural elements of food are found throughout the vegetable and animal kingdoms. The principal processes are boiling, roasting, frying, broiling, and baking. The great object in cooking meats is to retain as much as possible of their natural juice. Hence, when boiled they should be plunged at first into boiling water, that their outer part may contract and become impenetrable. On the other hand. the meat for soup should be put into cold water and gradually heated. It has been observed that hard water is better for boiling mutton, and soft water for vegetables. By boiling mutton loses one fifth of its weight, and beef one fourth; by roasting they each lose one third. Frying is the least healthful of all the operations. Broiling, by which the surface is suddenly browned and hardened and the juices retained, is the most eligible style for those who wish to invigorate themselves. Baking renders meat very savory and tender, not only by retaining the juices, but also by not permitting the escape of the fumes; but it causes greater retention of the oils, and therefore renders meats less easily digestible. The size and other conditions of a joint, or rather piece, are to be skilfully considered in cooking it. There are four principal French sauces, l'Espagnole, la veloutée, l'Allemande, and la Bechamel, two of them brown and two white, forming the bases of almost every other sauce. Among national dishes are the roast beef, beef steak, and plum pudding of England, the salt beef of Holland, the Sauerkraut of Germany, the caviare of Russia, the pilau of Turkey, the polenta and macaroni of Italy, and the garban808 and olla podrida of Spain.-An acquaintance with the arts of cookery may be obtained from the cookery books, which abound throughout the civilized world. The oldest of these in modern times that has been preserved dates from the second half of the 14th century; it is entitled Le ménagier de Paris, and was written by a citizen of that city named Le Sage. Moral counsels are mingled in it with very full and curious culinary details. Another book by Taillevant, royal cook of France, dates from about 1392, and passed through eight editions

between 1480 and 1602. An excellent Italian treatise on cookery by Bartolommeo Scappi, chief cook of Pope Pius V., was published in 1570. Among the numerous cookery books which are in use and authority at the present time are Rumohr's edition of König's Geist der Kochkunst (Stuttgart, 1832); Otto's Praktiche Anleitung zur Kochkunst (Leipsic, 1842); Carême's Art de la cuisine française au XIX. siècle, also his Pâtissier pittoresque and Cuisinier parisien (Paris, 1854); Plumerey's Entrées chaudes (Paris, 1854); the Dictionnaire général de la cuisine française; "The Cook, or Ladies' Kitchen Directory" (London); Kitchiner's "Cook's Oracle;" "Encyclopædia of Domestic Economy," by Webster and Parkes (London, 1814; with additions, New York, 1845); the "Housekeeper's Receipt Book," by Miss Catharine E. Beecher (New York, 1845); Miss Leslie's "New Cookery Book" (Philadelphia, 1857); "The Modern Cook, a Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in all its Branches," by C. E. Francatelli, pupil of Carême, and late maître d'hôtel to the queen of England (with additions, Philadelphia, 1858); "The Modern Housewife," translated from the French of Alexis Soyer (New York, 1859); "What to Eat and How to Cook it," by Pierre Blot (New York, 1863); "Handbook of Critical Cookery," by Pierre Blot (New York, 1868); "Common Sense in the Kitchen," by Marian Harland (New York, 1871); and Alexandre Dumas's Grand dictionnaire de cuisine (Paris, 1873). Other works in illustration of the subject are De Honesta Voluptate et Valetudine, by the Italian ecclesiastic Platina (1473); the Almanach des gourmands, by Grimod de la Reynière (8 vols., Paris, 1803-'12); and the brilliant and amusing Physiologie du goût, by Brillat-Savarin (Paris, 1825).

church in 1820.

COOKMAN, George G., an American clergyman, born in Hull, England, Oct. 21, 1800, died at sea in March, 1841. He received a careful education, and joined the Methodist Three years later he visited the United States on business connected with his father's firm, and while here resolved to enter the ministry. In 1825 he joined the Philadelphia conference, and in 1833 was transferred to the Baltimore conference, and afterward labored in various portions of Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Maryland, and the District of Columbia. In 1838-'9 he was elected chaplain to congress. On March 11, 1841, he embarked in the steamship President to visit his native land, and perished with that vessel. Of his numerous sermons and addresses only one small volume has been published, "Speeches" (New York, 1841).

COOK'S ISLANDS, or Harvey Archipelago, a group of islands in the Pacific, lying S. of Polynesia, between the archipelago of Tonga on the west and Tahiti on the east, in lat. 20° S., lon. 157° W. The largest are Mangeia, Atiou, Harvey, and Raratonga. They are inhabited by people of the Malay race, most of whom

have been converted to Christianity by English missionaries. Raratonga is a centre of Protestant missions in the Pacific islands. The population is estimated at 11,500, of whom 5,000 belong to Mangeia, 3,500 to Raratonga, and 1,000 to Atiou.

COOK'S STRAIT, a passage separating the northern and middle islands of the New Zealand group. Its discovery by Capt. Cook dissipated the belief then prevalent that New Zealand was part of a great southern continent. It varies from 20 to 80 m. in width. Wellington and Nelson, two of the largest towns of the English colony, are on this strait, the shores of which are subject to occasional earthquakes.

COOKSTOWN, a town of Ireland, county Tyrone, situated on the Belfast and Northern Counties railway, 10 m. N. of Dungannon; pop. in 1871, 3,653. It contains a Protestant church, a Roman Catholic church, two Methodist and three Presbyterian chapels; and in the vicinity is the union workhouse. The flax market is among the largest in Ulster.

COOLEY, Thomas McIntyre, an American jurist, born at Attica, N. Y., Jan. 6, 1824. He began the study of law in 1842 at Palmyra, N. Y., but removed the next year to Adrian, Mich., where he was admitted to the bar in 1845. For a time he edited a newspaper, "The Watch Tower." In 1857 he was appointed by the legislature to compile and publish the laws of the state, and in 1858 he was chosen reporter of the decisions of the supreme court. He held this office seven years, during which he published eight volumes of reports, which were followed by a digest of all the reports of the state. In 1859 the law department of the Michigan university was organized, and he was chosen one of the board of professors. He removed to Ann Arbor, where he resides, holding the office of dean in the law faculty. In 1864 he was elected to fill a vacancy on the bench of the supreme court of the state, and in 1869 was elected to that office for the full term of eight years. In 1868-'9 he held the position of chief justice. He has published a treatise on "The Constitutional Limitations which rest upon the Legislative Power of the States of the American Union" (1868; 2d ed., enlarged, 1871), and editions, with copious notes, of Blackstone's "Commentaries" (1870), and of Story's "Commentaries on the Constitution of the United States," with additional chapters on the new amendments (1873). He has during his judicial career given many important opinions, some of them upon great constitutional questions. Among these is one in 1870 against the right of cities and towns to raise money by public tax in aid of railways and private corporations.

COOLY (Hindostanee, kúli, day laborer), a term applied by Europeans to laborers in the East Indies, China, and Japan. It has become familiar chiefly in a restricted sense, denoting those eastern laborers imported for work upon tropical plantations, either under contract for

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