of Arts' gown is worn under this dress, the sleeves appearing through the arm-holes of the habit. This is the dress of business; it is used in Convocation, Congregation, at Morning Sermons at St. Mary's during Term, and at Afternoon Sermons at St. Peter's during Lent, with the exception of the Morning Sermon on Quinquagesima Sunday, and the Morning Sermons in Lent. The third, which is the usual dress in which a Doctor of Divinity appears, is a Master of Arts' gown, with cassock, sash, and scarf. The Vice-Chancellor and Heads of Colleges and Halls have no distinguishing dress, but appear, on all occasions, as Doctors in the faculty to which they belong.

The dresses worn by Graduates in Law and Physic are nearly the same. The Doctor has three; the first is a gown of scarlet cloth, with sleeves and facings of pink silk, and a round black velvet cap. This is the dress of state. The second consists of a habit and hood of scarlet cloth, the habit faced and the hood lined with pink silk. This habit, which is perfectly analogous to the second dress of the Doctor in Divinity, has lately grown into disuse; it is, however, retained by the Professors, and is always used in presenting to Degrees. The third, or common dress of a Doctor in Law or Physic, nearly resembles that of the Bachelor in these faculties; it is a black silk gown, richly ornamented with black lace: the hood of the Bachelor of Law (worn as a dress) is of purple silk lined with white fur.

The dress worn by the Doctor of Music on public occasions, is a rich white damask silk gown, with sleeves and facings of crimson satin, a hood of the same materials, and a round black velvet сар. The

usual dresses of the Doctor and of the Bachelor in Music, are nearly the same as those of Law and Physic.

The Master of Arts wears a black gown, usually made of Prince's stuff or crape, with long sleeves, which are remarkable for the circular cut at the bottom. The arm comes through an aperture in the sleeve which hangs down. The hood of a Master of Arts is black silk lined with crimson.

The gown of a Bachelor of Arts is also usually made of Prince's stuff or crape. It has a full sleeve, looped up at the elbow, and terminating in a point; the dress hood is black, trimmed with white fur. Noblemen and Gentlemen Commoners, who take the Degrees of Bachelor and Master of Arts, wear their gowns of silk.

UNDER-GRADUATES.

The Nobleman has two dresses; the first, which is worn in the Theatre, in processions and on all public occasions, is a gown of purple damask silk, richly ornamented with gold lace. The second is a black silk gown, with full sleeves; it has a tippet attached to the shoulders. With both these dresses is worn a square cap of black velvet, with a gold tassel.

The Gentleman Commoner has two gowns, both of black silk; the first, which is considered as a dress-gown, although worn on all occasions, at pleasure, is richly ornamented with tassels. The second, or undress gown, is ornamented with plaits at the sleeves. A square black velvet cap, with a silk tassel, is worn with both.

The dress of Commoners is a gown of black Prince's stuff, without sleeves; from each shoulder

is appended a broad strip, which reaches to the bottom of the dress, and towards the top is gathered into plaits. Square cap of black cloth and silk tassel.

The Student in Civil Law, or Civilian, wears a plain black silk gown, and square cloth сар, with

silk tassel.

Scholars, and Demies of Magdalene and Students of Christ Church who have not taken a degree, wear a plain black gown of Prince's stuff, with round full sleeves, half the length of the gown, and a square black cap, with silk tassel.

The dress of the Servitor is the same as that of the Commoner, but it has no plaits at the shoulder, and the cap is without a tassel.

UNIVERSITY OFFICERS,

WHO ARE DISTINGUISHED BY THEIR DRESS.

1

The dress of the Chancellor is of black damask silk, richly ornamented with gold embroidery, a rich lace band, and square velvet cap, with a large gold tassel.

The Proctors wear gowns of Prince's stuff, the sleeves and facings of black velvet; to the left shoulder is affixed a small tippet. To this is added, as a dress, a large ermine hood.

The Pro-Proctor wears a Master of Arts' gown, faced with velvet, with a tippet attached to the left shoulder.

The Collectors, who are two Bachelors of Arts, appointed to collect the names of Determining Bachelors, during Lent, and whose office begins and

*

The exercise called Determining is suspended.

ends with that season, wear the same dress as the Proctors, with the exception of the hood and tippet.

The Bedels are those who walk before the ViceChancellor in processions. There are three called Esquire Bedels, and three Yeomen Bedels. The Esquire Bedels, who carry the gold staves, wear silk gowns, similar to those of Bachelors of Law, and round velvet caps. The Yeomen Bedels, who bear silver staves, have black stuff gowns, and round silk caps.

The dress of the Verger, who walks first in processions, is nearly the same as that of the Yeoman Bedel. He carries a silver rod.

The Vice-Chancellor never walks out without being preceded by a Yeoman Bedel, with his staff.

Bands at the neck are considered as necessary appendages to the academic dress, particularly on all public occasions.

MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.

The Head of every College and Hall has his House, or, as it is usually called, his Lodgings, in or attached to the College or Hall which he governs. These Lodgings are suitable to the high rank of those who inhabit them, and are capable of contain, ing a handsome establishment. Formerly a few Governors of Colleges were not permitted to marry; this prohibition no longer exists. The Governors dine with their Society in their Hall, or general dining room, only on particular days, called Gaudies, or Feast Days. The Fellows cannot marry, nor succeed to a College Living; or indeed to any other, beyond a certain value, without relinquishing their Fellowships. Students of Christ Church, as has

been before observed, are similar to Fellows of other Colleges. Every member who resides in his College or Hall, has a bed room, and at least one sitting room. The apartments in some of the Colleges are very elegant; almost all the rooms are neat and comfortable. Those who have taken the degree of Bachelor of Arts, or who are nearly of the standing for that degree, are, if the College overflows, permitted to have lodgings in the City. After dinner the Fellows retire to their Common Rooms, which are in general very handsome In some apartments. of the Colleges there are Common Rooms for the junior members also, In all Colleges the Noblemen are entitled to be members of the senior Common Room, and in some, the Gentlemen Commoners have this privilege. Whatever might have been the case formerly, drinking to excess has long been unfashionable in Oxford. Those who wish to shine in their examinations, or who would avoid being plucked, must closely apply themselves to their studies; and this close application is incompatible with dissipation of any kind. This will account to strangers for the great order and decorum which prevail in Oxford, even in full Term, when so many young men are assembled together.

**

The only public amusements tolerated in the University are Concerts at the Music Room, and occasional Exhibitions, by permission of the Vice-Chancellor and the Mayor. Plays are never permitted to be performed during Term. In the long Vacation they have sometimes been allowed for the amuse

* Plucked is a term used for those who cannot pass their examinations, and are therefore refused a testimonial, without which they cannot take a degree.