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Chanal Island by Marchand; by Ingraham, Hancock Island; and by Roberts, Langdon Island. It is very much smaller than Hiau, being about 4 miles in length, and not more than one in breadth. It is very steep, its coast seeming to arise perpendicularly from the sea. It is covered with a vegetation which cannot be compared to that of Dominica; but it is incorrect to call it barren. At the North point of this island there is a large high islet, at a short distance from the shore; it lies W. 13° S. from the bank awash. The South point of Hiau is low; some detached and low rocks show themselves, which seemed to those on board La Venus to extend some distance beyond the visible rocks.

In the channel separating Hiau from Fattuuhu some thought they saw a breaker, but this fact was not absolutely established; in the consequent doubt it would not be prudent to attempt the passage.

These two islands have an abundance of fish and sea-fowl, which the natives of Nuka-Hiva and Roapoa come from time to time to enjoy. These islands are thus like what Teturoa is to Tahiti, a place of resort for the licentious tribes, who come hither to give themselves up to gluttony and debauchery.*

DETACHED ISLANDS AND SHOALS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LATITUDE 10° S.

Following the previous plan, in this belt of latitude we commence to the westward of the Marquesas Islands. The space comprised within these latitudes, and between the Galapagos Islands and those last named, has not a single point of land or shoal hitherto discovered.

NEW YORK and NEXSEN ISLANDS.-On May 31, 1798, Mr. Fanning relates that after quitting Nuka-Hivah, in the ship Betsy, land was made to the N.E. As it was neared it appeared to be two islands; one high and of considerable extent, and the other a low island. The first was named New York Island, and the second Nexsen Island, after his friend and owner, Mr. Elias Nexsen. Numerous smokes showed them to be inhabited, but as they were passed at 4 to 6 leagues' distance they were not examined. At seven hours after first seeing them, the lat. was 8° 13′ S., lon. 141° 31', New York Island bearing E. by N. 8 leagues.†

This would make the lat. about 8° 9′ S., lon. 141° 30'; but the vagueness of the account, and the remoteness of the period, render it very probable that they are identical with Hiau and Fattuuhu, last described.

TIBURONES.-Capt. D'Urville inquired concerning Tiburones at Uapoa, and was unhesitatingly assured of its existence, and that their inhabitants sometimes visited it. They stated that it was high land, and on all its coast there was but one small sandy beach, where their canoes could land in fine weather. At that time (August, 1838) there was a single native on it, deserted by his com

• Voyage of La Venus, vol. ii. pp. 368-9.

+ Fanning's Voyages, pp. 217, 218.

panions. It was about 50 leagues, or a day and a half's sail, from Uapoa. On the charts it is placed in lat. 11° S., lon. 143° W.

CAROLINE ISLAND, THORNTON ISLAND.-In 1795 Capt. Broughton saw an island in lat. 9° 57′ S., lon. 150° 25′ W. He passed it at the distance of 5 leagues; and as it is very low, he might readily be mistaken as to its actual size. He named this Caroline Island.

Capt. Thornton, commanding the English whaler Supply, in his passage from Peru to Australia, discovered, in lat. 10° 4' S., lon. 150° 16′, a very low island, which at first sight had the appearance of a small group of islands. He estimated their length to be 5 leagues, and breadth 5 miles.

The close proximity of these two positions renders it most probable that they are identical, notwithstanding that Thornton Island is stated to be nearly three times the size of that seen at the distance by Capt. Broughton.t

VOSTOCK ISLAND was discovered by Capt. Bellingshausen in 1820. It is not more than half a mile in diameter. His position, lat. 10° 5′ 50′′ S., lon. 152° 23', was confirmed by the United States' Exploring Expedition, who place it on their charts as Staver's Island, discovered by Capt. Cash. It is also identical with Anne Island. Wilkes describes it as a low sandy island, with a lagoon. It is well wooded, half a mile in diameter, of an oval shape, with heavy breakers surrounding it. Landing impossible.

MALDEN ISLAND, discovered by Lord Byron in H.M.S. Blonde, in 1825, is a low coral formation, about 12 or 14 miles in extent, and having on it several clumps of thick fresh-looking trees, so compact that at a distance they were taken for rocks; these clumps are useful in approaching the land, for in no place is it higher than 40 feet. Landing was easy, but shoals of bold sharks rendered it rather dangerous. No inhabitants were found on it by the Blonde, but traces of former people were seen-large square areas, raised 3 feet above the ordinary surface, supported by blocks of wrought coral, and each having in the centre. what may be taken for an altar or tomb, similar to Capt. Cook's description in other islands. It was named after the surveying officer of the Blonde, Lieutenant Malden. There is fresh water in it. Lat. 4° S., lon. 155° W.§

STARBUCK ISLAND was also discovered by Lord Byron, in 1825. It is placed by some in lat. 5° 58' 30" S., and lon. 155° 58′ W. Arrowsmith places it in lat. 5° 24′, and lon. 155° 50′. It is most likely identical with Volunteer Island, discovered, in 1823, by the Eagle, an English whaler, said to be in lat. 5° 9' S., lon. 155° 18'.

* Voyage au Pole Sud, tome iv. p. 23; Capt. Du Petit Thouars sought for it without success. See Voyage of La Venus, vol. ii. pp. 372-3.

+ Voyage to the North Pacific, by Capts. Broughton and Krusenstern, vol. ii. p. 434. Krusenstern's Supplement, pp. 4, 78, 158; Wilkes, vol. iv. p. 277.

Voyage of the Blonde, pp. 205-6.

Mr. Purdy; Krusenstern, Supplement, p. 16; Voyage of the Blonde.

PENRHYN ISLANDS were discovered, in 1788, by the vessel Penrhyn, at the distance of 8 miles. Kotzebue was the next navigator who saw them, April 30, 1816. He describes the natives as greatly resembling those of the Washington (Marquesas) Islands. This comparison, however, is not confirmed. by the remarks of the United States' Exploring Expedition in 1840, which follow :

The Porpoise next passed over the supposed site of Tienhoven Island without seeing any signs of land, and thence N.W. across two positions assigned to Penrhyn's, examining particularly that given by Capt. Cash, in lat. 9° 58′ S., and lon. 158° 14′ W. No island, however, was seen. Proceeding farther to the N.W., they, on the 15th, discovered land, which proved to be Penrhyn Island, about 30 miles West of its place on Arrowsmith's chart. It was of the usual coral formation, low, and densely covered with trees, among which the cocoa-nut was the most conspicuous.

The natives came off to the ship, and were the wildest and most savage-looking beings that had been met with, vociferating in the loudest and most frightful manner as they clambered fearlessly up the sides; they were naked, except the maro. Their weapons were concealed. Their language could not be understood. The island was by estimate 50 feet high, and was found to be 9 miles long, N.E. and S.W., and about 5 miles wide, with an extensive lagoon, having in it many coral patches; there is a boat entrance into it. On the N.W. side there appears to be a continuous village, with cocoa-nut groves throughout its whole extent, and the island is evidently very thickly peopled. The ferocity of the savages precluded the possibility of attempting a landing.

The island is believed to afford some tortoise-shell and pearls, but the ferocious and savage disposition of the natives would require traders to be strongly armed.* Admiral Krusenstern considers that Bennett Islands, seen in 1832, in lat. 8° 35′ S., lon. 159° 55′ W., are identical with Penrhyn Islands.t

JARVIS ISLAND is a small coral island, triangular in shape, 13 miles East and West, and a mile North and South. It exhibits the appearance of a white sand-beach, 10 or 12 feet above the sea, without a tree or shrub, and but a few patches of grass. The sea breaks violently around it, but no reef extends to any distance from it, and it may therefore be closely approached. A few sea birds were seen about it, and it was considered very dangerous. Lat. 0° 22′ 33′′ S., lon. 159° 54' 11" W.‡

Several islands and reefs have been announced as existing in this neighbourhood, but none of them were seen by the American Exploring Expedition. The first of these, as regards position, must be the same as Jarvis Island. It was discovered by Capt. Brown, of the English ship Eliza Francis, August 21, 1821; it is a small island, 5 miles in circumference, covered with bushes, in lat. 0° 23' S., lon. 159° 46′ W.§

Narrative of the United States' Exploring Expedition, vol. iv. pp. 277-280.

+ Supplement, p. 159.

Wilkes's Narrative, vol. v. p. 4.

Letter from M. Blosseville to Admiral Krusenstern, Supplement, p. 22.

Bunker Island, an American discovery, is also most likely identical with these. It is small. In this case another island, called Brocke Island by the Americans, must exist a short distance from Bunker or Jarvis Island, in lat. 1° 13′ S., and lon. 159° 30′ W., or, corrected from Wilkes's position, 159° 40′ W.

BOWDITCH ISLAND, or FAKAAFO, was discovered by the U.S. discovery ship Peacock, on January 28, 1840. It is of coral formation, and its shape is that of a triangle, with the apex to the South. From North to South it is 8 miles long, and in width from its West point 4 miles. On its S.W. and North points it is of considerable elevation, and the more elevated parts are connected by a coral reef, which is awash. On the East side the land is more continuous, and on these parts there are extensive groves of cocoa-nut trees and a shrubbery. There is no entrance for a vessel to the lagoon, which, from the appearance of the water, has but little depth. The party landed on an islet in the S.W. part, which the natives called Fakaafo; it was covered with cocoa-nut trees, but had no houses on it. The town is opposite the islet, and here water was procured from a carefully kept well. The natives appeared unacquainted with Europeans and with the use of fire. Lat. 9° 20' S., lon. 171° 4′ W.*

DUKE OF CLARENCE ISLAND, or NUKUNONO, was discovered by Capt. Edwards, of the Pandora frigate, in 1791. It was surveyed by the American Expedition, and found to be 7 miles in length in a North and South direction, and 5 miles wide East and West. It is of a triangular form, with the apex to the North. It has a lagoon similar to that of the Duke of York Island, with islets in it; the N. W. side is a bare reef awash, on which the sea breaks heavily. Many cocoa-nut and other trees on it. It is said to be inhabited, but no communication could be effected. Its North point is in lat. 9° 5' S., lon. 171° 38′ W.

DUKE OF YORK ISLAND, or ОATAFU, was discovered by Commodore Byron, in 1765, who, however, does not give the position in his narrative. He said it was uninhabited. Wilkes surveyed it in 1840. It is a lagoon island of coral formation, 3 miles long East and West, and 2 wide North and South. There is no passage into the lagoon; the sea breaks on the reef with violence, but at high water a boat may pass over without difficulty, if proper care is taken. The islets that have been formed on the reef are 8 or 10 feet above the water, and are covered with cocoa-nut and pandanus trees. It is now inhabited; the village, which was visited, was on the inner or lagoon side of the island; the population was vaguely estimated at 120. They have no water; the supply is wholly obtained from excavations made in the body of the cocoa-nut trees 2 feet from the ground. These trees are all dug out on the lee side, towards which all are more or less inclined. The natives acknowledge subjection to the chief of Fakaafo or Bowditch Island.†

These last three islands are collectively called the Union Group on the American charts.

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996

PHOENIX GROUP.

This appellation is applied to a scattered number of islands, from the name of one of its members, by the United States' Exploring Expedition. It is somewhat singular, however, that the Phoenix Island is one of which the existence is supposed to be disproved by their examination. The six or seven islands composing it are as follow.

ENDERBURY'S ISLAND is placed by Wilkes in lat. 3° 8'S., lon. 171°8′30′′ W. It is of peculiar appearance for a coral island. It is 3 miles long by 2 wide. Its South end is the widest, and on it are two clumps of stunted shrubs and plants; the southern end is almost bare of vegetation, and here its dry lagoon is most apparent. The bottom of this lagoon is composed of coral slabs, now broken up in all manner of ways, and is in places below the level of high water. The greatest height of the island above the shore reef is 18 feet. On the West side of the island was found a quantity of large drift-wood, in such a way as to indicate a great rise of water at times.*

BIRNEY'S ISLAND was discovered by Capt. Enment, who also discovered Sydney Island. According to Capt. Wilkes, it is in lat. 3° 34' 15" S., and lon. 171° 33′ W. It is only a coral island, 6 feet above the sea, about one mile long, N.W. and S.E., and a quarter of a mile wide. It is but a strip of coral, apparently uplifted, and is exceedingly dangerous for vessels.†

ARTHUR ISLAND, placed by Arrowsmith in lat. 3° 30′ S., lon. 176° 0′ W., requires confirmation as to its existence and position.

From the information received by Wilkes, at Hull's Island, there exists only two islands to the northward. These would be therefore Enderbury's and Birney's Islands. Phoenix Island, Farmer Island, and Favourite Island, are with Enderbury's and Mary Bulcot Islands. Mary or Roberts' Islands are the same as Birney's Island.

GARDNER or KEMIN'S ISLAND is placed by Krusenstern among the doubtful islands, but has been fixed by Wilkes's Expedition, lat. 4° 37′ 42′′ S., lon. 174° 40′ 18′′ W. It is a low coral island, with a shallow lagoon. Birds were numerous and very tame. A large rat was found (perhaps indicative of water). Trees 40 feet high, but no underwood; visible 15 miles. The flood sets strong to the northward; rise and fall of tide, 4 feet; var. 7° 26′ E. (1840.)§

M'KEAN'S ISLAND was discovered by Wilkes, in lat. 3° 35' 10" S., and lon. 174° 17′ 26" W. It is of coral and sand blocks, 25 feet high, no trees or bushes. Three-fourths of a mile long, by half a mile broad.||

HULL'S ISLAND, the N.W. point of which is in lat. 4° 29' 48" S., lon. 172° 20′ 52" W., was discovered by Wilkes, August 26, 1840. It is a lagoon island, and has a little fresh water, and a few cocoa-nut trees upon it. They were surprised at finding eleven Tahitians with a Frenchman on it, catching

Wilkes, vol. iii. p. 370.

+ Wilkes, vol. v. p. 4; see also Mr. Purdy to Admiral Krusenstern, Supplement, p. 22.
See also Krusenstern, Supp. pp. 22, 159.

Krusenstern, Supp. pp. 19, 157; Wilkes, vol. iii. p. 368.
Wilkes, vol. iii. p. 369.

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