QUIROS was the first to discover any portion of this fine but little-known archipelago. He saw the northern and largest island of the group, which he named Australia del Espirito Santo. The extent of this land, and of the bay in which they anchored, that of San Felipe and San Jago, which is 20 leagues in circuit, led them to the most exalted notions of its importance and magnitude. They concluded that it must be a portion of the long-talked-of and sought-for southern continent, but they made no explorations to satisfy themselves that their conjectures were well founded. In the different narratives which have been brought to light on this important voyage, there is no mention made of other islands. Quiros speaks only of one land; and in the memoir to King Philip III., on the colonization of this new continent, it is described as abounding with gold, silver, and pearls.

These visions as to the character of the land were dispelled by Bougainville, who saw that the northern part was composed of several islands, to which he gave the name of Cyclades. Cook discovered the greater portion of the southern chain, to which he applied the name of New Hebrides in 1773. Thus the group collectively possessed two appellations, and it was proposed to limit each to the North or South portions; but as there is no marked division in the chain, and as Cook discovered the greater number, his name of New Hebrides has superseded those previously applied to them.

It does not appear that any navigator visited the group after Cook until Capt. Golownin anchored in Port Resolution in 1809. He has given some interesting details as to the people in his second volume. Subsequent to this again we have but very few and scattered notices, so that our knowledge of this may be said to be as imperfect as of any collection of islands in the Pacific. It will be therefore rendering great service to hydrography if any addition to our stock of knowledge could be acquired, and the attention of the mariner is respectfully directed to this. We have but little to say on the islands except those details quoted in the succeeding descriptions, which comprise almost the entire published accounts. ANNATOM is the southernmost of the New Hebrides. D'Urville, who sailed around its southern side in June, 1827, says it is surmounted by high mountains, which leave only a very narrow belt of low land on the shore; on this belt some clumps of cocoa-nut trees are seen scattered here and there, and more particularly a great number of trees with scanty foliage and bare trunks, which at a distance look very much like whitened skeletons standing up. From their appearance he supposed them to be a species of the Melaleuca leucadendron, which furnishes the famous cajeput oil (kaïou-pouti). The mountains have but few large trees, although generally covered with verdure; in many parts large reddish patches,

showing an ochrey soil. The island appeared free from reefs, at least all its North It is 10 miles long, East and West, and 6 miles broad, from

and West parts.

North to South.

It has a harbour on the S.W. side, formed by a sand islet and reefs, but it is open to westerly winds.

It is, however, safe from April till October (the S.W. trade blowing steady during these months), and is resorted to by sandal-wood vessels occasionally.

Excellent fresh water can be obtained within a short distance of the anchorage, and firewood can be procured in abundance. The natives are similar in appear. ance to those of Tanna, and their manners and customs much the same. The immolation of widows is practised here. The island hardly produces food enough to supply the wants of the inhabitants, and consequently visitors can obtain no refreshments from the natives.

Mr. James Paddon formed an establishment at this island in 1843, and has remained there since. He has several houses built on the sand islet where he resides, and three or four small vessels engaged collecting sandal-wood from the other islands. Ships in want of supplies can generally obtain anything they require from Mr. Paddon, at a moderate price.†

Capt. D'Urville makes its West point in lat. 20° 11′ 25′′ S., lgn. 169° 35′ 44′′ E. ERRONAN is an isolated cone, considerably truncated, with steep sides. Its summit is N. 25° E., 45 miles distant from Annatom. It is an enormous mass, not more than 4 or 5 miles in circumference, and is sufficiently high to be seen 45 miles off. It is also called Footoona. Its summit, according to D'Urville, is in lat. 19° 31′ 20′′ S., lon. 170° 6′ 20′′ E.

IRRITOC, another island, is stated by the natives to lie perhaps 19 or 20 miles S.S.E. from the S.E. point of Tanna.

TANNA ISLAND.-Tanna was discovered by Capt. Cook in August, 1774. "At daybreak, August 5, we saw a low island (Immer) to the north-westward of us, having passed close to it during the night, and a high one nearly East of us (Erronun), at the distance of 8 or 9 leagues. The large island (Tanna), towards which we still directed our course, extended from N.W. to S.E., and consisted of a high range of mountains. Towards the south-eastern extremity, at the end of a secondary range of hills, we discovered a volcano, of which we had really seen the fire at night. It was a low hill, much lower than any in the same range, and of a conical shape, with a crater in the middle. Its colour was reddish brown, consisting of a heap of burnt stones, perfectly barren, but it offered a very striking sight to our eyes. A column of heavy smoke rose up from time to time, like a great tree, whose crown gradually spread as it ascended. Every time that a new column of smoke was thus thrown up, we heard a very deep rumbling sound, like thunder, and the columns followed each other at very short intervals. The colour of the smoke was not always the same; it was white and yellowish in general, but sometimes of a dirty reddish gray. The whole island, except the volcano, is well wooded, and contains abundance of fine cocoa-palms: its verdure,

• Voyage de L'Astrolabe, tome iv. p. 461.

+ Nautical Magazine, November, 1848, pp. 575-6.

even at this season, which is the winter of these regions, was very rich and beautiful.-(Forster, vol. ii. p. 261.) The island is highly cultivated. The produce of Tanna is bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, a fruit like a nectarine, yams, taro, a sort of potatoe, sugar-cane, wild figs, a fruit like an orange, but not eatable. The sugar-canes and yams are of a superior quality. Hogs were not scarce, but the inhabitants would not part with them, even for hatchets; a few fowls were also seen."

The flames of the volcano before alluded to were seen by D'Entrecasteaux at the distance of 20 miles.

PORT RESOLUTION is to the eastward of the volcano, and was named by Cook after his vessel :-"We stood on into the harbour, which has a narrow entrance; and, as we kept a man constantly sounding in the chains, we were greatly alarmed when our soundings suddenly decreased from 6 fathoms to 3 fathoms; however, an instant afterwards, we had 4, 5, and more fathoms. It appeared that we had providentially passed over a rock before the entrance, on which we had run the greatest risk of striking. The harbour was a small snug basin, where we let go our anchor in 4 fathoms, surrounded by a number of natives in their canoes.

"This was the only anchorage where we made any stay in all the extensive cluster of islands, which we had now discovered. We provided our ship with wood and water, but did not obtain any refreshments worth mentioning. The principal advantage which we derived from putting in here consisted in a few remarks on a race of people in a great measure distinct from all the tribes known to us before. But while we were entertained with various new and striking objects, it was very disagreeable to be tantalized with the sight of wholesome. vegetable and animal food, with which the natives did not choose to supply us.

"The Resolution was afterwards brought farther into the bay, but in warping her in, she struck aground several times, being drawn out of the deep channel. The water was very smooth, and the bottom covered with mud, so that she could receive no material damage. Capt. Cook remained here until the 20th of August, during which time the friendship of the natives was acquired, and small parties frequently went ashore; but they were not admitted to every part of the island." Sir Edward Belcher says:-"Port Resolution may readily be found by a very remarkable yellow sandstone bluff at its N.W. angle, and which is situated to the northward of the entrance; also by the smoke of the volcano a little inland from it. Approaching from the southward the entrance of the port might be overshot, by reason of the overlapping breakers; but by bearing in mind that it is formed by the low peninsular S.E. angle, and that the entrance is situated about one mile southerly of the yellow bluff, it will easily be found." When Sir Edward Belcher approached it the wind was dead out; but by edging close to the breakers on the left, and then hauling sharp up, the entrance was made, and in four boards a berth was reached inside in 6 fathoms. It is too narrow for a long vessel to work in, and it is preferable to shoot into 15 fathoms, and be prepared to warp. Sir Edward Belcher gives a not very inviting picture of the natives, who evidently would not be the last to show much mercy.*

• Voyage of the Sulphur, vol. ii. p. 57.

Point Resolution, within the bay on the East side, is in lat. 19° 31′ 17′′ S., lon. 169° 29′ 0′′ E.; var. 12° E. (1840).

The Island of Tanna is very fertile, and well inhabited by a stout race of men, similar in complexion to those of the Loyalty Islands. Like their neighbours they are all cannibals, and by no means should be trusted, The entrance of Port Resolution bears East from the volcano; therefore a ship bound in may always find the harbour by steering towards the volcano, after getting it to bear West. Tanna produces an abundance of excellent yams, and ships may obtain a large supply at a moderate price.*

A correspondent in the Nautical Magazine, 1839, gives the following account of the island:

"Approaching Tanna from the N.W. a beautiful prospect strikes the view: the country appears divided into farms, where meadows, orchards, arable patches, intersected by race-courses, avenues, and footpaths, seem to ape civilization; and, even in the transition state between barbarism and refinement, reminds the British voyager of his native country.

"The volcano, in constant action, during each of our visits to Tanna, and always sublime and awful, is seen on a promontory on the West side of the harbour of Port Resolution, so named by Capt. Cook.

"This harbour, situated on the South point of the island, is considered safe and convenient. Still farther to the westward is a bay, often resorted to by whale-ships.

"The natives of Tanna evince a treacherous disposition; their habits are grovelling, and their persons filthy; their faces are besmeared with turmeric and a sort of charcoal of their beautifying applications cocoa-nut oil forms an essential ingredient. The use of the betel-nut and chunam is common at this island as well as the rest of the group; the effect of which is visible in the usual black teeth and red lips of a betel-chewer. The language of the natives seems to possess a similarity of sound with that of the Malays.

"The island produces yams, taro, shaddocks, bananas, limes, cucumbers, cocoa-nuts, and a species of sweet potato. Sandal-wood is abundant at Tanna, and several valuable sorts of timber are to be found there: the clubs of the natives are made of ebony; many of them are neatly inlaid with pearl, shell, and stones, and some are beautifully carved. A peculiar sort of hog is found here; we have observed many of them, which, when full grown, are not above the size of a rabbit: rats also are abundant.

"Ships visiting Tanna are under the necessity of establishing a communication with the shore by means of their own boats; the natives have no canoes, using only a sort of raft, with which they dare venture only one or two hundred yards from the beach.

"When the natives come off with these rafts they are always armed, and vigilant to guard against treacherous attacks."+

IMMER is a small, low island on the East side of Tanna, and is covered with cocoa-nut trees. It bears N. by E. E. 4 leagues from Port Resolution.

Naut. Mag., Nov., 1848, p. 576.

t Ibid., Sept., 1839, pp. 603.4.

ERROMANGA is high and rocky, and presents an iron-bound shore nearly all round, with deep water close to the breakers, and no hidden dangers. It has no harbours, but anchorage may be found in Cook's Bay on the East side, and Dillon's Bay on the West. In Dillon's Bay the bank is steep-to; the soundings extend a very short distance from the shore, and the best anchorage is in 12 fathoms off the mouth of the river. No stranger should anchor here unless in a case of necessity, as the natives are hostile and treacherous; and should the wind set in from the westward a large vessel would have little chance of getting under way or beating out. The sandal-wood vessels are always ready for slipping in case of a westerly wind setting in. This island produces nothing beyond the immediate want of the inhabitants, and consequently holds out no inducement for vessels to visit it, except for sandal-wood. Its natives are cannibals, and are darker in complexion than those of Tanna, with woolly hair like negroes.*

On the N.E. and eastern side of this island there are two bays, in the northernmost of which the Resolution anchored in 1774. In the latter Capt. Cook had a skirmish with the natives, who attempted to draw his boat on shore, and discharged some stones and arrows at him and his crew; a circumstance which prevented a particular examination of the island. The western coast of the northern bay was covered with thousands of palms, which had a beautiful effect; the second bay extended very far inland, and seemed to contain several snug creeks or harbours. The lands on both sides were covered with the thickest woods, which had a most fertile and enchanting appearance. To the South the land sloped very gently, offering a fine exposure of vast extent, almost wholly cultivated, and in all likelihood rich in vegetable productions. A saddle-peak, dividing the two bays, was named Traitor's Head.

Erromanga has acquired a sad notoriety from the massacre of the indefatigable missionary, Mr. Williams, the well-known author of the "Missionary Enterprise." He had quitted the Samoan group on a tour in October, 1839; and having visited Tanna, they found the natives hospitable, and left Samoan missionaries on it, as the natives of Tanna understood the language. On arriving at Erromanga, they found a barren country, and a different race of men, black, with woolly hair, who did not understand anything of the languages known to the missionaries. They were apparently suspicious, but offered no hostility. Mr. Williams, Mr. Harris, Mr. Cunningham, and the master of the vessel, landed, and were strolling about, amusing themselves with picking up shells, and became separated from each other, Messrs. Harris and Williams being in advance. The natives suddenly raised the war-shout, and Mr. Harris was seen running, pursued by a crowd of them; he was soon overtaken and killed. Mr. Williams then turned and tried to reach the boat, but was killed in the water in approaching it. Mr. Cunningham and the captain got off, but without obtaining the bodies. It was the opinion that the attack was not premeditated, but the desire of obtaining the clothes, &c., of those on shore led to an event, which a single loaded musket in the boat would have prevented. It was a sad occurrence, and excited much commiseration in Europe.

Naut. Mag., Nov., 1848, p. 576.

+ Forster, vol. ii. p. 259.