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places them in lat. 16° 28′ S., lon. 155° 30′ W.; but Admiral Krusenstern corrects this longitude to 156° 10′.

Some islands have been placed on the charts in this neighbourhood, stated to have been discovered by Roggewein in 1722. His journal is given in Burney's Chronological History, vol. iv. p. 569, et seq. These are Bauman Islands, Roggewein Islands, Tienhoven Island, and Groeningen Island. The situations, or supposed situations, of all these, have been carefully sought over by Capt. Kotzebue, and also by the United States' Exploring Expedition, but without any success. As it is very evident that the assigned positions may vary several degrees from the truth, it is more than probable but that they are identical with some known islands. Still their existence is open to question.*

GRAND DUKE ALEXANDER or Reirson's Island was discovered by Capt. Bellingshausen in 1820; and again, in 1822, by Capt. Patrickson, who calls it by the latter name. Bellingshausen places it in lat. 10° 2' S., and lon. 161° 9' W. It is 2 miles long North and South, and is inhabited.

HUMPHREY ISLAND was discovered October 13, 1822, by Capt. Patrickson, in the Good Hope; it was not seen, as the other island was, by Bellingshausen. It is also inhabited, and is in lat. 10° 30′ S., and lon. 161° 2′ W. (or by Capt. Patrickson, 160° 55'.)†

SOUWOROFF ISLES, a group of several small islands, were discovered in 1814 by Lieutenant Lazareff, commanding the Souworoff, a vessel belonging to the Russian American Company. Lat. 13° 20' S., lon. 163° 30' W.

GENTE HERMOSA (Handsome People Island), discovered by Quiros in 1606, is in this vicinity. Mendaña also, in 1595, discovered the Islands of San Bernardo. The last are described as four low islands, 12 leagues in circumference, surrounded on all sides by rocks and breakers. Of course, in these older observations there are very great discrepancies. Admirals Burney and Krusenstern are each inclined to the opinion that these two groups (and they also include Danger Isles) are identical with each other. Whether they are the same as either Swain's Island or Bowditch Island, discovered by the American Exploring Expedition, is undecided, but the probability is great in favour of such a supposition.

DANGER ISLES were discovered by Commodore Byron, and are stated by him to be three in number, surrounded by rocks and breakers, and having a dangerous reef 9 leagues E.S.E. from them. His position is lat. 10° 15', and lon. 169° 28', which Krusenstern corrects to 165° 58'. Exactly in this longitude a similar group of three islands was discovered by Bellingshausen in lat. 10° 54' S., lon. 165° 54′ E., but he did not see the reef to the eastward. Capt. Freycinet

The speculations as to their locality will be found in Burney, vol. iv., as above; Fleurieu, in Marchand's Voyage, vol. iii. pp. 337-351; and Krusenstern, vol. i. pp. 286-7. See also Kotzebue's New Voyage; and Wilkes, vol. iv. p. 277.

+ Krusenstern, vol. i. p. 296; and Supplement, p. 12.

Krusenstern, Mem. Hyd., vol. i. p. 15.

also saw them, and gives the lat. 10° 45′ S., lon. 161° 10′, which last Krusenstern supposes to be a typographical error.*

SWAIN'S ISLAND.-In lat. 11° 5' S., lon. 170° 55′ 15", the United States' Expedition discovered a coral island, January, 1840, to which the name of Swain's Island was given. It is of coral formation, but has no lagoon; it is nearly round, and 4 miles in circumference; it may be classed with the high coral islands, and is elevated from 15 to 25 feet above the level of the sea. The sea breaks constantly on all parts, and no safe landing exists. With the exception of some groves of cocoa-nut trees, there were no signs of its ever having been inhabited. Pigeons were observed on it. +

RANGER ISLAND (?).—Capt. Worth, of H.M.S. Calypso, states that a small island is reported to exist by the whale-ship Ranger, of London, in lat. 11° 35′ S., lon. 166° 45′ W., but no authentic account of it could be obtained (December, 1848).

NASSAU ISLAND was discovered in March, 1835, by an American whaler of that name, Capt. Sampson. It is a low island; no appearance of inhabitants; water and wood plentiful; lat. 11° 30′ S., lon. 165° 30′ W. It may be identical with Ranger Island.

SAMOA OR NAVIGATOR'S ISLANDS.

The Samoa or Navigator's Islands lie between the latitudes of 13° and 143° S., and the longitudes of 168° and 173° W., and consist of four principal islands and five smaller, reckoning Rose Island to the eastward among the number. Krusenstern considers them to be the same as the Bauman Islands, discovered by Roggewein in 1721. However, there are many doubts as to this, and it is not of much importance. They were first seen, as now known, by Bougainville, in 1768, and by La Pérouse in 1787. Since that period they have been visited and described by Capt. Freycinet; Capt. Edwards, in the Pandora; Kotzebue, in the Predpriatie; and more recently and completely by Capt. Wilkes, in the U.S. Exploring Expedition, in 1839. To this latter source, and to the remarks of Capt. Bethune, R.N., we are indebted for the principal portion of the subsequent descriptions.

The whole of the group (excepting Rose Island) are of volcanic origin, and have remains of extinct craters, which are peculiarly visible at Apolima, Savaii, and the lake Lauto, on the ridge of Upolu, which is 2,570 feet above the sea. They are generally surrounded by coral reefs, which, in many instances, are much modified. The few harbours are generally situated within the reefs, but there are but two of primary importance in the group; that of Pago-Pago on the South side of Tutuila, which is a deep, land-locked basin, of easy approach and perfectly secure anchorage. This is the best port for the refitting of vessels, + Wilkes, vol. iv. p. 18.

See Krusenstern, part i. p. 14; and Supplement, p. 13.
Nautical Magazine, February, 1836, p. 66.

or for any purpose requiring more than a passing visit. But Apia, on the North side of Upolu, in lat. 13° 48′ 56.6" S., and lon. 171° 41′ 0-9" W., according to Wilkes (see Bethune), is more convenient for temporary purposes or refreshment, as it is nearer to the fertile districts, and is also the place where the principal missionaries reside. To Apia the remains of the unfortunate and respected Mr. Williams, and also those of Mr. Harris, were brought by H.M. sloop Favorite, in 1839, from Erromanga.

The great disadvantage which these islands lie under, especially Upolu and Savaii, is the want of any approach to government. A code of commercial regulations was drawn up Capt. Wilkes, of the U.S. navy, for the whole of the Samoa group, and signed by some of the chiefs of Upolu, but there is no authority to enforce it. A harbour duty of five dollars is paid by all merchant ships to Pea or Poneis, chief of Apia, but is rather a private present than a claim. The whole of the population of Manua, and nearly all of Tutuila, have embraced Christianity. Tutuila has the advantage of some form of government, there being seven ruling chiefs who decide upon measures for general adoption.

The only staple, at present, is cocoa-nut oil; about 100 tons annually are made, the produce of a few weeks' labour; but it might be increased tenfold from the present trees, without referring to what might be done by cultivation. The islands seem fit for every tropical production, and there is a great quantity of rich level land in all. There are a few cattle on the island, most of them the property of Mr. Pritchard and Mr. Williams the U.S. consul; beef, yams, and pumpkins may, therefore, be reckoned on from them at moderate rates.*

Since the French have taken possession of Tahiti, as naturally might be expected, the English interests have declined, or rather removed, and the endeavour is to bring the trade, as far as possible, to this group, of which Apia is the centre, replacing Papiete in the former islands. The French still endeavour to rival the English and Americans in the infant commerce now rising here. They have two missions on Savaii, and two on Upolu; these, with the other Roman Catholic missions on Mangaia, Rarotonga, and Rotumah, form part of the diocese of M. Bataillon.+

To vessels requiring refreshments these islands offer abundant supplies of wood, water, and provisions of the usual kinds. A small quantity of tortoiseshell, procured at Savaii at times, cocoa-nut oil, and arrow-root, comprise all the articles which can be procured in any quantity beyond the necessary articles required by visitors. Poultry of all descriptions is plentiful, and pigeons abound, but are considered sacred. Fish may be taken abundantly, and a great variety in their vicinity.

The CLIMATE of the islands may be termed variable; and there is much bad weather, particularly during the winter months, when long and heavy rains, attended at times with high winds and northerly gales, are frequent. Destructive hurricanes also occur, sometimes blowing down the trees and destroying the houses. Although these severe hurricanes do not happen very frequently at the Samoan Islands, yet Capt. Wilkes says, that from reports he received, he

* Nautical Magazine, June, 1850, pp. 324–326.

+ M. Dutaillis, Annales Hydrographiques, vol. i. 1850, pp. 149-50.

is disposed to believe that they occur very frequently between them and the Friendly Islands, where scarcely a season passes without some of the islands suffering from one of these awful catastrophes.

It would therefore be advisable for whaling ships to avoid cruising in the neighbourhood of these groups during the season of the year that these storms are liable to occur, viz., from the middle of December to the end of March. Some ships have been almost made complete wrecks of that were so unfortunate as to be overtaken by them!

Capt. Wilkes relates (vol. v. p. 9) the phenomena of one, December 12, 1840, from which it would appear that they take the character of the usual revolving storms, shifting from one point to another, accompanied by a great fall in the barometer. During its height an injured one, whose ordinary standing was 28 inches, fell as low as 24 inches. Another of these cyclones devastated the Island of Tutuila, April 4th-7th, 1850. It is described in the Nautical Magazine, December, 1850, pp. 677-8; it is said that the barometer fell to 27.80. In the centre of the island the wind shifted suddenly from N.W. to S.W., and left scarcely a tree or house standing. Therefore the now well-known cautions respecting these storms may serve to mitigate their effects, if attended to.

The air is more moist than that of the Society Islands, and the vegetation in consequence more luxuriant. Thunder and lightning are often experienced; but during the summer light winds and calms are the prevailing characters of the climate.

The flood tide among the islands sets to the westward; beyond its influence, on the southern side of the islands, a current generally prevails to the eastward; while it runs westward on the northern side. Vessels, therefore, when beating to windward, would find it to their advantage to keep on the southern side of the group, where there is not only a favourable current, but the winds would be found more regular, and calms less frequent.

The Samoans have been somewhat misrepresented, as being ferocious and treacherous. Though this may not be entirely without foundation, yet they possess many good qualities, and are very desirous of pleasing and exercising hospitality. The beneficial effects of the missionaries are more evident here than at Tahiti. The white visitor will, therefore, find his way in a great measure prepared for him, and it is sincerely to be hoped that he will not abuse the privilege.

The islands collectively contain an area, according to the American estimate, of 2,650 square miles, and a population of 56,600; of whom 14,850 have embraced Christianity, and 12,300 attend the schools; besides this, two-thirds of the population belong to the Christian party.

ROSE ISLAND is the easternmost island of the Samoan group. It was discovered by Freycinet, and so named after his wife, who accompanied him. Afterwards (in 1824) it was seen by Kotzebue, who gave the name of his first lieutenant, Kordiukoff, to it, being unaware of Freycinet's discovery. He describes it as exceedingly dangerous, from its low elevation; but Wilkes, October, 1839, says that at first it resembles a round knoll of land, but which is in reality a clump of trees. It is a low, small, annular coral island, inundated at high water, with the exception of two small banks, one of which is covered with

trees. There is an entrance (4 fathoms) into its lagoon on the S.E. side. The tide rises 4 feet, the flood setting eastward. In stormy weather the sea must make a complete breach over the reef.*

Sir Edward Belcher says:-" Rose or Middleton Island does not exceed 30 feet in height, is of a very soft spongy soil, on a slaty micaceous shale, intersected by quartz dykes. A few fuci, land shells adhering to ferns, and three small alca, comprised our collection. The ripples I had observed were found to arise from ledges of rock, on which as little as 2 fathoms were found. The tide was ascertained to set-flood, N.E.; ebb, S.W. Some fine halibut were hooked.”+

Capt. Mignon, of the French ship Jupiter, says that the sand-banks extend more than 2 miles to the W.S.W., and that it looks very dangerous to approach too near. It is in lat. 14° 32′ S., lon. 168° 9′ W.

MANUA (Wilkes), Omanooau (Arrowsmith), is the easternmost of the principal range of islands, and was called Opoun by La Pérouse. It has the form of a regular dome, rising precipitously from the water to the height of 300 or 400 feet, and then more gently to 2,500 feet. It is 16 miles in circumference, is covered with a luxuriant vegetation, and has many cocoa-nut groves on its N.W. side. Its area is about 100 square miles. The principal settlement (Tau, Capt. Bethune) is on the N.W. side, and there is anchorage for a vessel near the shore, with a cove to land in. The natives are very willing to trade, "bacca" and fish-hooks being in great request by them. These islands furnish pigs, fowls, sweet potatoes, fruit, and some taro. Many running streams were seen coursing down the sides of the island

OROSENGA, OLOOSINGA, or ORISEGA, which is the Leoné of La Pérouse, is a narrow ledge of rocks, rising nearly perpendicular on both sides, and is 3 miles in length. It is the residence of the chief of the islands, in consequence of its being easily defended. He lives on the N.W. side. The coral reef around it differs from most others, and has been apparently upheaved 15 or 20 feet, for it consists of two regular shelves, one beyond the other.

OFU lies to the westward of Orosenga, and is the Fanfoué of La Pérouse. There is a passage for boats of a quarter of a mile wide between, and anchorage on the western side. Ofu resembles Orosenga, and has but few inhabitants. There is a small and comparatively low islet off its western end, near which is an anchorage. TUTUILA is the Maouna of Bougainville, and has acquired an undesirable, and it is now believed an undeserved, reputation from the massacre of the Comte de Langle, M. de Lamanon, the naturalist, and the rest of a boat's crew belonging to La Pérouse's expedition. This occurred from one of the natives having been shot on board the Astrolabe, when the indignant natives retaliated in this way on the watering party. Subsequent experience has proved that the bad character given to these people in consequence does not really belong to them.

The Island of Tutuila, or, as it is called by Capt. Edwards, of the Pandora, Tootooellah and Tutyella, is high, broken, and of volcanic appearance. It is 17 miles long, and its greatest width is 5 miles. The Harbour of Pago-Pago

• Krusenstern, vol. i. p. 251; Supplement, p. 81.; Wilkes, vol. ii. p. 64. + Voyage of the Sulphur, vol. i.

Annales Hydrographiques, 1850, vol. i. p. 396.

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