"When first seen the island has the appearance of three rocks. (It was seen at daylight 15 miles off, bearing N.N.W.) Its direction is N.W. and S.E., and is something less than half a mile in length, and a fifth of a mile in width. Some sunken rocks lie off the N.E. and S.E. points; in other directions the island may be approached within a quarter of a mile. N. 50° W., three-quarters of a mile, there are soundings, in 46 fathoms, sand and coral; and N. 33° W. 1 miles, 140 fathoms, gray sand." The S.E. extreme is in lat. 26° 27′ 46′′, lon. 105° 20' 8"

variation, 81° E.

TEAPY, WAIHU,+ or EASTER ISLAND.-This island, which has been the subject of much observation, from the fact of a race of people having disappeared, perhaps in the interval elapsed since it was first described, was discovered by Roggewein, in 1721. Cook and La Pérouse both visited it, and gave great interest to it from their descriptions. Other and later navigators have since frequently touched here. Some island was discovered by an Englishman named Davis, who thence called it Davis's Land; and Krusenstern endeavoured to prove that it was not Easter Island; but the position he assigned, between lon. 90° and 95°, was sought over by Kotzebue without success. They must therefore be considered as identical. Capt. Beechey says that Easter Island, bearing W. by N., at first had the appearance of being divided into two, rather flat at the top, with rounded capes; the N.E. of which is distinguished by two hillocks. On a nearer approach, numerous small craters are observed rising above the low land, and, near the N.E. extremity, one of considerable extent, with a deep chasm in its eastern side. None of them had for a long time been in action.

The island is of triangular shape; its length is exactly 9 miles from N.W. to S.E., 9 miles from W.N.W. to E.S.E., and 13 miles from N.E. to S.W. The highest part is the N.E. peak, 1,323 feet high, and in clear weather it may be seen at 16 or 18 leagues' distance.||

This island is 2,030 miles from the coast of Chili, and 1,500 from the nearest inhabited island, except Pitcairn Island. This island has been but seldom visited, and it is feared that these few visits have not tended to improve the people, for Beechey and Kotzebue nearly or quite came to open rupture with them. La Pérouse planted many useful fruit trees and vegetables on the island, with what success is not known.

One very singular feature of the island is the gigantic busts or idols which Roggewein, Cook, and La Pérouse describe; but these, either from neglect or injury, have nearly or quite disappeared; a few heaps of rubbish only remain in

• Beechey, vol. i. pp. 28-9.

+ WAIHU, or WAIHOU. This name is applied to Easter Island by Kotzebue (vol. iii. p. 224, English translation); but on several charts, as on that by Admiral Duperry, there is a Waihou Island placed in lat. 22° 15′ S,, lon. 109° 1′ W.; that is, five degrees to the northward of Easter Island. This is probably an error. Capt. Worth, in H.M.S. Calypso, passed near the spot stated in February, 1848, but makes no mention of any island here which confirms the above remarks. -ED.

See Dalrymple's Collection, vol. ii.

§ Ephemerides Geographiques, tome xvii.; also Burney, in his Account of the Buccaneers; and Beechey, Voyage of the Blossom, vol. i. p. 29.

Beechey, vol. i. In the Narrative of La Pérouse's Voyage, tome iv. p. 21, et seq., there is a detailed account of the island, and its appearances on approaching it, by M. Bernizet, but it would not be intelligible without the plates.

many places. Whether this is the effect of native migration or volcanic con. vulsion cannot now be well known.

Off the South Point lie two rocky islets, one nearest the point high and peaked, the other low and flattish. Cook anchored (March 14, 1774) in a small open bay, off this West side of the island. His station was about a mile from the nearest shore, the South point of a small bay, in the bottom of which is a sandy beach, bearing E.S.E. 13 miles distant; the two rocky islets were here just shut behind a point to the North of them; they bore S. W. 4 miles distant, and the other extreme of the island bore N. 25° E., distant about 6 miles. But the best mark is the sandy beach, because it is the only one on this side of the island. Toward the East end of the island there were great numbers of the gigantic statues, and here they found a well of fresh water, but the water procured at the anchorage was salt and useless.-(Second Voyage, vol. i. p. 287, et seq.) Capt. Beechey made Pérouse Point in Cook's Bay to be in lat. 27° 8′ 46′′, lon. 109° 24' 36".

(The S. W. portion of the Low Archipelago, which may be considered as commencing at Ducies' Island next to the westward, is within our present limits of lat. 20° S., but will be described altogether in a succeeding chapter.)

DOUGHERTY ISLAND.-This island, which must be one of the most isolated spots in the ocean, being in the most open space of the great world of waters, was discovered by a whale ship, the James Stewart, Capt. Dougherty, on May 29th, 1841. It ought to have taken its place on a former page, but is unconnected with any other known system. It appeared to be an island 5 or 6 miles in length, running N.E. and S.W., with a high round bluff on the N.E. end, with low land to the S.W.; between the N.E. and S.W. ends there appeared a valley covered with ice and snow. He passed it within a quarter of a mile, going at least 10 knots. The position was only gained approximatively on account of not having proper observations for several preceding and following days. Lat. 59° 20′ S., lon. 120° 20′ W.*

OPARO or RAPA ISLAND.-Oparo was discovered by Vancouver, December 22, 1791. At first it bore N.E. & N., and then appeared as three small islands, the easternmost much resembling a vessel under sail. They did not land, but saw nearly round it; they considered that anchorage might probably be found on both sides of its N.W. point. To the southward of that point is a small bay with a stony beach, through which there was the appearance of a considerable stream of water falling into the sea. The shores in most parts were so perfectly smooth, that landing might have been effected without the least difficulty. Round to the North of that point is another small bay, in which are a small islet and some rocks; behind these, the shore may be approached with great ease at any time. Indeed, there was not any part of the island which appeared to have been acted upon by heavy violent surfs, as the verdure in many places reached to the water's edge. The South extremity of the island appeared in some points of view to

* See Courier, St. John's, New Brunswick, August 21, 1841.

form a right angle without the least interruption in the sides; about half a mile to the S.E. is a small detached islet; the shores are interspersed with sandy beaches; its greatest extent, which is in a N. 18° W. and S. 18° E. direction, is about 6 miles, and it may possibly be about 18 miles in circuit.

Its principal character is a cluster of high craggy mountains, forming, in several places, most remarkable pinnacles, with perpendicular cliffs nearly from their summits to the sea. The valleys, or rather chasms, between the mountains, were chiefly clothed with shrubs and dwarf trees. Neither plantains nor other tropical plants appeared; neither fertility nor cultivation were evident.

The natives, who appeared not to have seen Europeans before, resembled other of the great Polynesian nations. They were estimated to amount to above 1,500 at least. On the tops of six of the highest hills some native fortifications were observed.*

Capt. Bellingshausen places it in lat. 27° 37′ 40′′, and lon. 144° 15′ W.

NIELSON REEF.-On January 19, 1827, the ship Sir George Osborne passed between two portions of this reef, on which the sea broke in places, being nearly level with the water. White coral was observed under the ship, from 4 to 6 fathoms; the reef extended a considerable distance, curving S.E. in the form of a crescent, as far as the eye could reach from the mast-head. The sea being perfectly smooth, showed itself by breakers, only occasionally breaking. Its situation was lat. 27° 0' S., lon. 146° 16′ 45" W. by chronometer. This information was given to the world by Mr. S. Stutchbury, the naturalist, on board the Sir George Osborne.

In 1831 the ship Lancaster struck on it; the weather was also fine, and the sea did not break. The least depth found was 12 feet.†

Besides the name of Nielson Reef, given to it after the captain, it is also called Osborne Reef, after his ship, and Lancaster Reef, after the second occurrence.

BASS ISLES.-To the E.S.E. of Oparo are four small islands, discovered by Mr. Bass, well known as the gentleman who first passed through the strait separating Van Diemen's Land and Australia. They have been marked as the Coronados, or Four Crowns, discovered by Quiros, but there is nothing but their number to support this supposition. Krusenstern argues that these last are identical with the Gloucester Isles, 7° farther North. M. Vincendon-Dumoulin places them in lat. 28° 5' S., lon. 142° 45′ W.

TOUBOUAI OR AUSTRAL ISLANDS.

This is a dispersed group, lying to the southward of the Society Islands. and the Low Archipelago. The first of these appellations is given to them in the charts by M. Vincendon-Dumoulin. The second is applied by Mr. Williams in his Missionary Enterprises. The islands composing the group have not been much frequented or visited, as they are small, and do not offer many inducements for the calls of passing navigators.

* Vancouver, vol. i. pp. 75-6.

+ Nautical Magazine, 1833, p. 693. Krusenstern, Mem. Hydr., vol. i. pp. 28-9.

VAVITAO is a small high island, discovered, October 23, 1791, by Capt. Broughton, who places it in lat. 23° 42′ S., and lon. 147° 11' E. He did not apply any name to it, believing it to be the same as Toubouai, but Mr. Bass states that its name is Vavitao.

M. Mauruc gives the particulars of an island which he calls Hig (High?) Island, in lat. 23° 40′, lon. 148° 0′ W., the native name for it being Ravaïvaï, which must be the same. He says it is high and surrounded by reefs. There is a well-sheltered harbour in its N.W. part to the West. The people are very mild in their disposition. No provisions can be got. The current here is always so strong that it cannot be outrun in light breezes.*

A REEF lies in lat. 24° 45′ S., and lon. 148° 20′ W. to the S. W. of Vavitao, according to Commander Hamond, H.M.S. Salamander.+

TOUBOUAI is the next island to the westward, and is much smaller than Vavitao, being not more than 5 miles in extent. Krusenstern places it in lat. 23° 25' S., lon. 149° 23' E. On making it from the northward it appears like two islands, but the two hills join at the base; steer for the ridge between the two hills, and it leads to the passage through the reefs to the anchorage inside. The harbour inside the reefs is unsafe, fit only for small vessels, and the anchorage outside is insecure and rocky, with bad holding ground. A reef extends a full mile off the S.W. point. The French protectorate flag was flying on it in January, 1848. OHETEROAH, discovered by Capt. Cook in his first voyage, August 14, 1769, is about 13 miles in circuit, and rather high than low, but neither populous nor fertile in proportion to the other islands he had seen. It is not surrounded, like the neighbouring islands, with a reef. Cook's boat landed on the West side of the island, in a bay the bottom of which was foul and rocky, but the water exceedingly clear. His position of it is lat. 22° 27′ S., lon. 150° 47′ W. (150° 13′ corrected). M. Mauruc calls it Rouroutoua, and says there are some harbours for small ships, the population numerous and inoffensive; the same productions as the preceding.

A GROUP OF ISLANDS is placed by M. Vincendon-Dumoulin in lat. 21° 50′, lon. 150° 0′ W., apparently of coral; and on Mr. Purdy's chart there is another island, in lat. 21° 20′, lon. 149° 20′ W.

RIMITERA was discovered by Capt. Henry, and is in about lat. 22° 40′ S., and lon. 152° 20' W. It is highest in the centre, which is about 300 feet, being, according to M. Mauruc, rather lower than its neighbours. It has no harbour, but has the same provisions, which he procured at a very easy rate.§

SANDS ISLANDS, a group of four small islands, contained in a circumference of about 10 miles, with very high breakers clear round them; the height of the land. (trees?) is not more than 30 feet. They bear from Rimitera about W.N.W. W.

* Nautical Magazine, July, 1847, p. 379.

+ Bulletin de la Societé de Geographie, 1848, p. 95.

Voyages made by order of George III. (Hawkesworth's Collection), vol. ii. p. 276. When Cook was here he was informed of the existence of Manuo and Mouton. The longitudes of Cook in the Low Archipelago differing from Beechey by 34', this would be in 150° 13′.

Bulletin de la Societé de Geographie, 1848, p. 96.

They were discovered by Mr. J. R. Sands, master of the Benjamin Tucker whaler, October 19th, 1845. They lie in lat. 21° 50' S., lon. 154° 0′ W.

A small island is marked on Arrowsmith's chart, about a degree to the West. Capt. D. Bethune also mentions that an island exists about 150 miles East of Mangaia. This must be the island in question, but it may be the same as Sands Island.t

COOK'S ISLANDS.

This group of islands, which lie scattered over a considerable space, without any intimate connexion between each other, were so collectively designated by Admiral Krusenstern, in the first volume of his invaluable Memoires Hydrographiques. It consists of nine or ten separate islands, the greater part of which were discovered by Cook; hence the appropriateness of their collective appellation. The progress of Christianity in them occupies a considerable portion of the interesting Missionary Enterprises, by the late Rev. John Williams, who, with some other authors, called them the HERVEY ISLES, the name of one of the groups.

MANGAIA (or Mangea) is the south-easternmost of the group. It was discovered by Capt. Cook, March 30th, 1777, in his third voyage. He places it in lat. 21° 57'S., lon. 158° 7' W. The following recent account of it, by M. Dutaillis, will also give an idea of the rest of the group.

This island is high enough to be distinguished at 25 or 30 miles' distance. It is very irregular. Its shores are abrupt, and do not present, like those of It is Tahiti, the smiling valleys winding in planes inclined towards the sea. of volcanic origin, and is about 30 miles in circumference. The coast is not defended, as usual, by a reef; the sea beats nearly direct upon its flanks; and a mass of coral attached to it, but not extending more than 15 or 20 yards out, serves as a breakwater and shelter to it.

There is not any opening; it consequently has neither port nor road. The sea around it is of great depth, and without any danger.

The only communication with the land is made by means of canoes, which alone are capable of clearing the narrow line of heavy surf separating the shore from the ocean, which is done at high water, and seizing the most favourable

instant.

With the

The principal village, Oneroha, lies on the North side of the island; and it is to this part that ships desiring to trade with the natives ought to come. usual winds it is preferable to make it to the South, for the currents bear to the North.

It contains about 2,000 inhabitants, being about one-half the entire population. It was entirely destroyed in March, 1846, by a storm, which devastated the whole island. Nearly all the native houses were blown down, and the church, which

Whalemen's Shipping List, New Bedford, United States, March 10th, 1846; and Shipping Gazette, March 18th, 1847. They are placed by M. Vincendon-Dumoulin in lat. 21° 50′ S., and lon. 115° 4′ W., as was given in the newspapers above; but the bearing from Rimetara, &c., shows that lon. 154° is meant.-ED.

↑ Nautical Magazine, October, 1840, p. 685.

They are so called in the Asiatic Journal, February, 1827.