After going through the halls of old Holyrood, we proceeded up High street, familiarly known as the place where John Knox, the great reformer, lived and preached. The building having fallen into a very dilapidated state, was ordered several years since to be taken down, but a subscription for its preservation was immediately raised by some of the more public-spirited of the citizens, and this interesting old relic permitted to remain as a memorial of its former occupant. It has recently been restored by the purchasers, who have taken great care to preserve every feature of the building, and placed a family within to exhibit it to strangers and protect it from spoliation. As we entered the old house, my attention was attracted by the following admonitory inscription over the door:

"Lufe. God. above. al. and, your, neebour, as, yourself.”

And close beneath the window from which Knox is said to have preached to the populace, I observed a rude effigy of the reformer stuck up on the corner in the attitude of addressing the passers by. The old arm-chair and several other interesting pieces of furniture used by John Knox are shown to visitors, and a beautiful steel engraving of the building is furnished at a very moderate price. Pursuing our way up High street, we came to the Castle, which occupies the most prominent site in Edinburgh, and may be said to form the nucleus around which the city has arisen. The period of its foundadation is involved in mystery. The earliest name by which it is known in history is Castrum Puellarum, or "The Camp of the Maidens," from the daughters of the Pictish kings being reared and tutored within its walls. Like most of the fortresses in Scotland, it has experienced vicissitudes peculiar to her early history, and was frequently taken and retaken by various conflicting parties. It is one of the four fortresses which, by the articles of Union, are to be kept constantly fortified, and contains at present accommodation for two thousand soldiers, and space sufficient in the armory to hold thirty thousand stand of arms. There is nothing very curious or interesting in the structure of the Castle. It consists of a series of irregular fortifications, which were at one time considered impregnable; but at the present age it is regarded as utterly useless. Many things. connected with great historical events are exhibited in the Castle by an order from the Lord Provost, which is never refused when prop

erly applied for. The Scottish regalia are to be seen in an apartment called the crown room every day from twelve to three o'clock. These insignia of royalty consist of a crown, a sceptre, and a sword of state; along with them is also shown the Lord Treasurer's rod of office, found deposited in the same old oak chest in which the regalia was discovered by Sir Walter Scott. Compared with the crown jewels of England, they are of small value; but taken in connection. with the many associations connected with them, they are inestimable. The room where Queen Mary gave birth to James VI., in whom the crowns of England and Scotland were united, the huge piece of artillery called Mons Meg and his wife Meg, are also exhibited to strangers, besides a number of other interesting things too numerous to mention.

Besides these old buildings which are interesting mainly on account of the associations connected with them, the city of Edinburgh can boast of many modern structures that are fit to adorn any place. Among them may be mentioned the High School, Parliament House, St. Giles' Cathedral, and the Royal Institution for the Encouragement of the Fine Arts in Scotland. The latter named building contains the paintings of the Scottish artists-comprehending specimens of Wilkie, Etty, Turner, Maclise, Stanfield, Roberts, and other artists of distinction.

The monuments of this city attract more attention probably than any other objects. They are very numerous, and some of them exceedingly beautiful and costly. On Calton Hill, which I have alluded to in the beginning of this letter, there are several monuments worthy of notice; but as I am pressed for space, and wish to notice others of more importance, will merely mention their names. The first that attracts the notice of the visitor is the graceful monument to Dugald Stewart; and close by one of equal beauty to Professor Playfair. Upon the summit of the hill stands Nelson's Monument, a structure more ponderous than elegant, but which, though wholly destitute of grandeur of design, becomes impressive from its great size and elevated position. Near it is the Old Observatory, and twelve columns of the National Monument, an unfinished structure intended to commemorate the heroes who fell at Waterloo. The splendor of the projected building (which was to be a literal reproduction of the Parthenon) was worthy of a better cause, where

Scottish valor achieved some glory, unaided by allied powers. In the centre of St. Andrew's Square, which is in the most beautiful part of the city, there is a monument erected to the memory of Lord Melville; it rises one hundred and thirty feet in height, besides the statue, which measures fourteen feet more. The design is that of a Trojan column, the shaft being fluted, instead of ornamented with sculpture as in the ancient model. Throughout the principal streets are to be seen a number of bronze statues representing the different sovereigns, and other distinguished characters in Scottish history; but the most important testimonial in the city is the monument to Sir Walter Scott, which was designed by George M. Kemp, and completed in the year 1844. It is situated in the most public part of Prince street, the great thoroughfare of Edinburgh, is constructed of a beautiful quality of sandstone, and is two hundred feet in height; a stair of two hundred and eighty-seven steps conducts to the gallery at the top. "In each part of the monument, above the principal arch, are six small niches, making a total of twenty-four in the main structure, besides thirty-two others in the piers and abutment towers. These niches are to be occupied by sculptural impersonations of the characters, historical and fanciful, portrayed in the writings of Sir Walter. The following statues now occupy the four principal niches which crown the four lowest arches, viz. the statue of Prince Charles, (from Waverley,) drawing his sword; Meg Merrilies, (from Guy Mannering,) breaking the sapling over the head of Lady Bertram; Lady of the Lake, stepping from a boat to shore; and the Last Minstrel, playing on his harp. Under the arches in the monument is a beautiful marble statue of Scott, by Steel; a fine work of art, and said to be a most faithful likeness. The inscription is appropriate, and the monument well worthy to commemorate the genius of the departed great.

After viewing the monuments in the city, we made an excursion to "fair Melrose," which is situated in the vale of the Tweed, near the foot of Eildon Hill. The village at present is utterly devoid of interest; but the country round about is every where fertile and picturesque; while the famous Abbey yet stands in beauteous ruins, presenting to the eye the finest specimen of Gothic sculpture and Gothic architecture ever reared in this country. A few miles beyond Melrose is Abbotsford, the home of Sir Walter, situated on a bank

overhanging the south side of the Tweed, which here makes a beautiful sweep around the declivity on which the mansion stands. Though irregular in its proportions, the building as a whole produces a very striking effect. The visitor is ushered in by a porchway, adorned with petrified stag-horns, into a hall which is richly panelled with carved oak, from the palace of Dunfernshire; behind the cornice there is a line of coats-armorial richly blazoned, belonging to the families who kept the borders. The floor is of black and white marble from the Hebrides, and the walls are hung with ancient armor, and various specimens of military implements. We were then conducted into the armory, a narrow, low arched room, which runs quite across the house, having a blazoned window at either extremity, and filled with smaller pieces of armor and weapons. This apartment communicates with the drawing-room on one side, and the dining-room on the other. The former is a lofty saloon, with wood of cedar, and furnished with antique ebony furniture, carved cabinets, all of beautiful workmanship. The latter is a very handsome apartment, richly carved with black oak, and contains a fine collection of pictures, the most interesting of which are the family portraits, and the head of Queen Mary in a charger the day after she was beheaded. The library, which is the largest of all the apartments, is a magnificent room, fifty feet by sixty. The collection of books in this room amounts to about twenty thousand volumes, many of them extremely rare and valuable. Adjoining the library is the study in which Sir Walter wrote all of his works. His writing table, old arm-chair, and clothes worn at the time of his decease, are here shown to visitors by a cicerone employed by Mr. Lockhart, Sir Walter Scott's son-in-law, who now occupies the mansion, and allows it to be visited at all times by strangers, who are conducted through all the apartments and out-grounds.

Not far from Abbotsford and near Melrose is the Abbey of Dryburgh, which is the most melancholy-looking spot that could have been selected for the last resting place of Sir Walter. The building is almost entirely demolished by the work of time, and the only portions that are now standing are the gable of the nave of the church, the ends of the transept, part of the choir, and St. Mary's aisle. In the latter, which is by far the most beautiful part of the Abbey, are to be seen, side by side, the plain granite tombs of Sir Walter, his

wife and only son, the late Col. Scott. There is no inscription on the tomb but his name, which speaks more than any epitaph that could be written. His name will live when the stone slab that now covers his mortal remains will have crumbled away; and his writings, which embrace all the beauties of the English language, will be as familiar for centuries to come as household words.

LETTER TWENTY-ONE.

PARIS.

The French Fêtes-Dinner-Theatricals and Concerts at the Hôtel de Ville-Visit to Versailles-The President's Festival at St. Cloud-Reception at the English Embassy-Ball at the Hôtel de Ville-Grand Review and Sham Fight in the Champ de Mars-Dramatic Representation at the Opera, etc

BEFORE this letter reaches you, the telegraph will have conveyed the news of the recent festivities in Paris-a succession of brilliant scenes that will long be remembered throughout the world. The Prefect of the Seine, in the name of the great city of Paris, and I may say, in that of the French nation, invited the Chief Magistrate and civic dignitaries of London, the Mayors of the different towns in England that were represented at the Exhibition, the Royal Commissioners, the Executive Committee, and all those who were in any way associated with that great work, together with a host of other distinguished foreigners, to accept the hospitalities of la belle France, upon her own soil. The generous invitation was cordially accepted; and for five days this gay metropolis and her magistrature, with a profuse expense, with the most excellent judgment, with the most perfect taste, with the most kindly feeling, and with most untiring zeal, have endeavored to show their guests that they did not underrate the importance of the occasion, or the effect it was calculated to produce, not only at home, but over public opinion throughout the civilized world. The year 1851 will hereafter constitute an important era in the history of Europe. The Exhibition of the Industry of all Nations at London first gave it an impulse, and all the events that from time to time have sprung out of it, together with those likely to ensue, are calculated to confirm and strengthen the