From Bentley's Miscellany.

AN OLD MAN'S RECOLLECTIONS OF THE PASTORAL CANTONS OF SWITZERLAND.

EDITED BY MRS. PERCY SINNETT.

It is now more than fifty years since,* on a dull rainy morning, and in a mood still duller and gloomier than the weather, I found myself on the shores of the lake of Constance. White vapors were rolling over the heads of the enormous masses of rock that rose like mighty walls round the horizon; the waters of the lake, lashed into fury by the gusts of wind, rushed along at their feet towards the valley of the Rhine, where they seemed to mingle with clouds as black as midnight, against which the clear green color of the waves in the foreground, with their crests of snowy foam, looked indescribably beautiful.

The whole aspect of nature was strange and new, and affected me with a power I had never before felt from external things: but I had scarcely time to wonder at the change, which with magic suddenness scemed to operate upon my mind, when my carriage rolled over the bridge that connects the island of Lindau with the main land, and the walls of the city soon hid the whole landscape from my sight.

stance, laid the foundations of their Valeria; there they built a number of galleys, with which to traverse these unknown waters, and soon the dark and silent woods that closed it in were echoing to the shouts of the first civilized men whose vessels had rippled its surface since its creation.

Tiberius landed on the island now called Lindau, built a fortress, and prepared here his warlike expeditions against the natives of Rhotia, in the neighborhood of the lake, who had often rushed down from their mountains upon the fertile and cultivated lands of their Italian neighbors. He conquered them after six years' struggle, and thence he opened a way through the forest into the heart of Suabia, where he established his extreme outpost to watch the fierce Allemanni. It was not, however, till the seventh century, that a few families began to settle on the shores of the lake, with a view to gain a subsistence by cultivating the yet virgin soil:-The people of Schwytz, Unterwalden, and the other pastoral cantons that constitute the very heart and The castle and the wall called the Heiden core of Switzerland, sprang originally from Mauer, whose strength and thickness bid de-a shoot thrown out by the grand old Scandifiance to time, carried me back in thought to navian tree. In a parchment preserved at those distant ages when the heavy tramp of Ober Hasle, in the Canton of Berne, there the iron men of Rome first broke the still- is a record of this remarkable immigration. ness of the woods in which the yet unnamed A body of six thousand warlike men had lake lay buried. But it was not solitude, been thrown off at a swarm, when there was nor the gloom of boundless forests, nor the a great famine, from an ancient kingdom bellowing of the auer-ox and other mighty brutes by which they were tenanted, nor the cries, scarcely less terrible, of their human inhabitants, nor rocks nor glaciers, nor the ice and snow of a climate that appeared so severe when compared with that of their own glowing land, that could turn back the legions from a settled purpose. Under the guidance of Drusus, they found their victorious way along the Rhine, leaving one fortress after another to mark their course, and on the spot which is now Con*The lapse of fifty, we might almost say of five hundred years, has made so little change in the mode of life in these pastoral cantons, that we apprehend the date of these recollections will detract little, if anything, from whatever interest may long to them.

be

far to the north, in the land of the Swedes. They divided themselves into three troops, each of which made a league among themselves to hold together on the land or on the sea, in good fortune or bad fortune, in joy or sorrow, in all things great or small which God should send them. One of those, under the guidance of one Schwitzerus, after many adventures, reached the upper Rhine, "and at length came to a country with high rocks and mountains full of valleys and lakes, which pleased them, for it was like the old country from which they had come."

Here they settled, calling the country Schwitz, from their leader Schwitzerus, and felled the forest, and built huts, and kept

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flocks, and tilled the ground, and main-castles in endless variety; and on the optained themselves honorably by the sweat posite bank, the bolder forms of the mounof their brow, and kept faithfully to one tains and the distant snowy peaks proanother; and their children learned handi- claimed the wonderful land of the Swiss, crafts, and grew up to be men great and to which I was bound. strong like giants." Our old friend WilI arrived at Morsburg in due time, but liam Tell and his compeers came then, it not a man could be found who would put appears, of a good family. me across the lake, as it would be scarcely The weather cleared up in the afternoon, on possible, they said, to reach Constance in the day of my arrival at Lindau, and I cross-safety with this wind, so that I was fain to ed the bridge to the Bavarian shore, which amuse myself for the remainder of the day looked very attractive with its fruitful hills with looking at the Bishop's cabinet of and gardens and vineyards. My guide led shells; the Bishop of Constance I mean, me to the country-seat of a Lindauer patri- who has his residence here. It is situated cian, whence, through a telescope, I saw upon a high rocky shore which falls preciplainly, across the lake, the towers of the pitously to the lake,-here many hundred ancient abbey of St. Gall, and several pretty feet deep,-which, while I was engaged little towns set, like gems in the opposite with the shells, was dashing furiously shore. The clouds were now floating in a against the precipice, and tossing its white higher region of the atmosphere, and hid foam many fathoms high, while the bosom none but the loftiest peaks; and at last the of the water was of a deep blue black. sun broke through and I had the pleasure of From what you know of the enthusiasm beholding the mountains of Appenzell, the with which, at that time of my life, I rechief object of my pilgrimage. A tremen-garded the form of government and the dous storm appeared however to be raging character of the free pastoral people of in that elevated district. Sometimes high Switzerland, you will easily believe I did ragged peaks would seem to thrust them- not pass without emotion the simple wooden selves suddenly out from amidst the clouds, bar that marked the frontier of the Canton and the thick veil would sweep off and of Appenzell. Hitherto my road had lain, show them covered with glittering ice as I have said, through corn-fields, orchards, and snow; and then, again, it would close, and vineyards; now there was a striking leaving the imagination perhaps more ex- change in the character of the landscape. cited by these stolen glimpses than if the whole of these mighty masses had been visible.

There was no longer the same variety of tint, but hill rose behind hill, in ever bolder outline, but clothed in a uniform green coAfter a long battle between sun and lor, varied occasionally by the dark hues of storm, the sun at length obtained the mas- the fir thickets. Single houses built of tery, and, pouring out a flood of light, took wood, but with the utmost care and neatpossession of the whole vast landscape, ness, lay scattered about upon the hills, and turning, as he set, the surface of the lake could be reached by pretty winding paths; into a sea of crimson fire. Never had I they had an air of tranquil comfort as they seen so magnificent a spectacle.

lay there in that still evening, with the I left Lindau on the following morning beams of the setting sun yet lingering upon but the storm and wind from the west was them, that corresponded well with my antistill raging with such violence over the lake, cipations, and my satisfaction was increased that it was impossible to go by water to Con- when, on my arrival in the evening twilight stance, as I had intended. The beauty of at Herisau, the largest and handsomest vilthe shore, however, along which the road lage in the Canton, I learned that in a few lay, made me ample amends for this change days, would take place the general assemin my plan. I was going along the German bly of one of these little states, with which, side to Morsburg, now I believe in Baden, as you are aware, resides the sovereign from which I could easily cross over to Con- power of the country.

stance. The road ran sometimes close The Canton of Appenzell, though realong the margin, sometimes a little further garded as one in the confederacy, does, in off, but through corn fields, meadows, gen- fact, consist in two separate and indepentle hills clothed with vines, avenues of dent republics, called the Outer and Inner fruit trees, round whose trunks the ivy Rhodes; this word rhode being, it is said, twined its picturesque garlands; groves of a corruption of the old German rotte, meanfir, pretty villages, and little towns and ing troop or tribe. The manner in which

this topographical and political separation gemeine, as it is called, I left Herisau, on a was effected is, I believe, unique in history, fine spring morning to take my way to the and therefore deserves mention. In the appointed place of meeting, the little town year 1522, Walter Glarer, a parish priest of Appenzell, in Inner Rhodes. Light of Appenzell, had begun to preach openly clouds covered the sky, but a soft warm air the doctrines of Zuinglius, the Swiss re- was blowing, under whose influence all naformer, and had found many zealous sup- ture seemed bursting into bud and blossom. porters; from others, however, he met with Far as the eye could reach, hill and valley, a no less decided opposition, and soon, in and even mountain, were covered with a every little village in this hitherto peaceful robe of liveliest green, and, from the peculand, were kindled the flames of the great liar conformation of the country, every step spiritual conflagration of the sixteenth cen- presented the landscape in a new point of tury. Instead, however, of cutting each view. The hills, sometimes flowing into other's throats in the name of the God of each other, sometimes suddenly parting, love and mercy, as other more civilized na- created an incessant change of outline, tions did, these rude shepherds bethought mass, and surface, which kept the attention them of another expedient. As soon as it constantly occupied. To the south rose nabecame evident that their differences of opi- ked rocks of a greyish black color, contrastnion could not be reconciled, and that no- ing forcibly with the snowy horns of the thing remained now but civil war, they said, Santis. To the east, through breaks in the "let us divide the land," and the proposal mountains, occasional enchanting peeps was at once received. The Catholic com- could be obtained, across the bright mirror munes or parishes, chose the Cantons of of the Lake of Constance to the distant ferLucerne, Schwytz, and Unterwalden, for tile fields of Suabia, floating in an atmoarbitrators; the Reformers, Zurich, Glarus, sphere of tender blue, and on all sides the and Schaffhausen. Deputies from these six view was framed in by the sharp bold outcantons were sent to Appenzell, and within line of mountains of every variety of shape. a month after, the Catholics had taken The road along which I was journeying peaceable possession of the interior districts could only be traversed by passengers on called Inner Rhodes, their reforming bre-foot or on horseback, but showed on thren of those which lay nearer to the frontier, and each little republic had held its general assembly, in which the people not only gave their consent to the arrangement, but had even the forethought to introduce a clause, stating that the agreement should not necessarily be binding for ever on their posterity, but should continue only as long as it should be desired by both parties.

The calm rationality and wisdom of this proceeding, at a time when men's minds all over Europe were a prey to the transports of fanaticism, gives these little states, in my opinion, a claim to attention and respect not to me measured by their geographical extent. It may afford also a fact in reply to the often repeated assertion that a pure democracy is uniformly swayed by passion rather than by reason. It was in that same century when the shepherds of Switzerland gave this example of reason and moderation that the English nation had been blown repeatedly backwards and forwards between Catholicism and Protestantism, by the gusts of passion in the mind of a brutal despot.

Rejoicing at the good fortune which had led me to Appenzell at the period of the general assembly of the people, the Lands

either side manifold traces of the cleanliness, order, industry, and prosperity of the people. From time to time, when I was stopping to admire a pretty wooden house, or a bright crystal spring that came dancing across a green slope, groups of men would pass with hasty steps, some of whom wore a most singular costume, the color of the right half of every garment being white, and of the left black. The composed demeanor of these men seemed, however, to indicate that this strange attire was no masquerade habit, but had some peculiar significance, and on making enquiry, I learned that they were official personages belonging to Outer Rhodes, who were going to Appenzell to be present at the Inner Rhodes parliament. These are the state colors, the Appenzell arms being a black bear in a white field.

All at once the road, or rather path, made a steep descent into a ravine, at the bottom of which flowed the clear rapid stream of the Urnasch, which rises in the mountains on the Toggenburgh, and rushing along between very high banks, pours itself into the Sitter. Like most mountain streams, it sometimes swells to a torrent, and is continually wearing itself a deeper

and deeper bed, which in this part was overhung, when I saw it, with broken masses of sand-stone, fringed with dark pines; and I could not help lingering for some time on the bridge thrown across the narrow valleys to gaze upon its picturesque beauty. On reaching the right bank, I came in sight of the village of Hundwyl, and, from the small number of whose houses, one could little imagine to be the largest parish of Outer Rhodes; but throughout the Swiss cantons, with very few exceptions, the vil-ance.—' -The road as I approached the scene lages are all small, from its being the custom for families of this pastoral people to live on their own property; and to have their house in the midst of their land, so that the inhabitants of a single parish are sometimes found scattered all over a circle of from ten to twenty miles.

stop and wait till I could find room enough to ride by. I noticed this as a little trait, marking the difference of character between these mountaineers, and any country people I had ever seen, who were always ready to take off their hats and stand respectfully aside to make room for a carriage or a gentleman on horseback. In the entire deportment and bearing of these Appenzellers, in their firm step and free erect carriage, there was an expression of manly self-reli

After passing Hundwyl, the way led along the side of mountans covered with forests, thickets, and meadows, and very soon, without being acquainted with the precise limit between Outer and Inner Rhodes, it was easy for me to perceive that I had passed it. The country, the people, and their occupations remained the same, yet it was impossible to overlook the difference between Protestant and Catholic Appenzell. The fields of the latter were not so neat, the crops were less abundant, the meadows no longer showed that fresh delicious green which enchanted me in the Outer Rhodes; the houses were smaller, poorer, and I missed everywhere those evidences of industry, order, and prosperity so beautifully conspicuous in the little twin republic, and I should sometimes almost have felt the way tedious but for the views which were continually opening to the east, where the mountains were sprinkled over with an incredible number of habitations, giving to the landscape a quite peculiar

of action, was of course more and more thronged, and as I gazed with interest at the groups of athletic figures which surrounded me, I seemed to see revived their valiant forefathers, when they rose up and burst the chains that had been laid on them, and drove the oppressor from their land.

The open village of Appenzell was swarming with people, and everywhere was a movement, a thronging busy life, a hum like that of a great fair; and one of the busiest parts of the whole scene was in the street opposite to the inn where I was to stop.

Old and young, men and women, boys and girls, were all evidently in their Sunday clothes; but the costume of the men was so peculiar, as to deserve a more exact description. They wore a short jacket and waistcoat, and trowsers reaching to the ankle, but so short above, that a large portion of their linen hung out, and indeed had it not been for their broad braces, there would have been imminent danger of their appearing as true sans culottes. Some people, I am told, consider this practice of allowing the shirt to hang out as a mere piece of dandyism, but I have seen it in men so old and steady, that this can hardly be the case. -When I entered the public room of the inn, and saw, sitting with their backs to me, a whole row of figures, apparently in As I came nearer to the capital of Inner so strange a dishabille, I could hardly preRhodes, I met a great number of the peo- serve my gravity. The room was full ple going to the general assembly, and on of women and girls, but of course no one all sides I could distinguish them coming but myself appeared to regard it as either down the slopes of the mountains towards peculiar or comic; nay, on the contrary, to the same point; here a man alone, there my surprise and mortification, I found that a father with his sons; from another point the indecorum, or, at all events the absura whole troop of old and young, all hasten- dity, was thought to be on my side. I had ing to Appenzell. Every one carried a often noticed as I rode along that a head sword, for, curiously enough, it is the law had been popped out of a window to look that the men shall come armed. Some at me, and that immediately there had folcarried the weapon in the right hand, grasp-lowed a burst of laughter. Here, as I sat ing it by the middle like a stick, and not in the apartment of the inn, I perceived one made a single step to move out of the several of the women and girls glancing at way of my horse, so that I had often to me and tittering, so that at last I was

character.

RECOLLECTIONS OF THE PASTORAL CANTONS OF SWITZERLAND.

[March, piqued to enquire the cause of their mirth, | poreal 'exercise. The candle which I looked at to which one of the damsels replied with seemed as if it were encircled by a rainbow. Not long after, the sight in the left part of the left eye great naïveté, that it was "because I look-(which I lost some years before the other) became ed so funny."

PROGRESS OF MILTON'S BLINDNESS.-It is now, I think, about ten years [1654] since I perceived my vision to grow weak and dull: and at the same time I was troubled with pain in my kidneys and bowels, accompanied with flatulency. In the morning, if I began to read, as was my custom, my eyes instantly ached intensely, but were refreshed after a little cor-wood's Magazine.