16 M. Salem (Essex House, $ 2), the mother-city of Massachusetts, is a quiet and ancient town with 30,800 inhab. and a good harbour flanked by two crumbling forts. Its former commerce with the East Indies has now given way to a small coasting-trade, and a few manufactures are also carried on.

Naumkeag, on the site of Salem, was first visited by Roger Conant, one of the Cape Ann immigrants, in 1626, and a permanent settlement was made here by Gov. Endicott two years later. Gov. Winthrop landed here in 1630, and for a time Salem was the capital of Massachusetts. In 1692 Salem was the scene of the extraordinary witchcraft delusion, of which mention is made below. The legislature of Massachusetts met at Salem in 1774 (the last time under the English Crown) and issued a call for a Continental Congress. Privateersmen from Salem were very active during the war. After the war Salem engaged in the East India trade, and many of its citizens attained great wealth and influence. Indeed it is said that about 1810 a Salem merchant was the largest ship-owner in the world. Among the famous natives of Salem are Nathaniel Hawthorne (1804-1864), who was Surveyor of the Port here from 1846 to 1850; W. H. Prescott (1796-1859), the historian; Maria S. Cummins (1827-66), author of "The Lamplighter'; Peirce (1809-80), the mathematician; Count Rumford (1753-1814); and W. W. Story, the sculptor (b. 1819). Comp. Osgood and Batchelder's 'Historical Sketch of Salem' and Hunt and Robinson's 'Visitors' Guide' (1893).

ESSEX INSTITUTE, 132 Essex St., contains interesting collections of historical paintings, portraits, and relics (open 9-5); and PLUMMER HALL, next door, on the site of Prescott's birthplace, contains the Salem Athenaeum Library. Behind Plummer Hall is the First Church, the oldest Protestant church in America (1634; apply to the Secretary, Essex Institute). The PEABODY ACADEMY OF SCIENCE, also in Essex St. (No. 161), contains ethnological and natural history collections and the East India Marine Museum.

At the head of Derby Wharf, at the S. end the city, is the old Custom House in which Hawthorne was employed for four years (see above) and the scene of the introduction to ‘The Scarlet Letter'. The quaint gambrel-roofed house in which he was born is No. 21 Union St., a narrow side-street extending from Essex St. to Derby St. The Turner House, 34 Turner St., is pointed out sa the 'House of the Seven Gables'.

The Roger Williams House, 310 Essex St., in which Roger Williams resided in 1635-6, is said to have been the scene of the preliminary examinations of some of the witches in 1692. The County Court House contains original records of these trials. Gallows or Witch Hill, on which the witches were put to death, is 1 M. to the W. of the city (near the tramway to Peabody; see p. 92).

Salem Village, the actual scene of the outbreak of the witchcraft delusion of 1692, lies 5 M. to the W. of Salem, on the old Andover high-road. Twenty innocent persons were put to death through the denunciations of eight girls (varying in age from 11 to 20), who met in the house of Samuel Parris, the too credulous minister of the parish. The house has been pulled down, and its site is marked only by a slight depression in the soil. Other spots that became memorable during this Reign of Terror are still pointed out; and a good account of it will be found in Dooks by Upham and Nevins (1893). They all lie in the township of banvers. The farm-house in which Gen. Putnam was born stands about 1 M.

beyond Salem Village, at the intersection of the Andover and Newburyport roads.

About 2 M. to the N. of Salem (railway) is Peabody, the birthplace of the philanthropist George Peabody (1795-1869). The Peabody Institute, which he founded and endowed, contains the jewelled portrait of Queen Victoria given by her to Mr. Peabody. He is buried in Harmony Grove Cemetery, a little to the W. A tramway-trip may also be taken to (20 min.) The Willows, a picnic resort overlooking the North Shore and the outer harbour.

A charming *DRIVE may be taken from Salem along the 'North Shore' to (2 M.) Beverly, (9 M.) Manchester, (12 M.) Magnolia, and (15 M.) Gloucester (comp. below), traversing beautiful woods, passing numerous fine countryhouses, and affording views of the sea. The drive in the opposite direction to (4 M.) Swampscott and (6 M.) Lynn is also attractive.

A short branch-line runs from Salem to (4 M.) Marblehead (p. 90), and it is also the junction of lines to Lawrence, Wakefield, Lowell, etc.

On leaving Salem the train passes through a tunnel, 200 yds. long, and crosses the North River.

18 M. Beverly (Trafton Ho., $2), another ci-devant seaport, now given over to the making of shoes, is the junction of a branchline to Gloucester and Rockport.

FROM BEVERLY TO GLOUCESTER AND ROCKPORT, 17 M., railway in 3/4-1 hr. This line follows the so-called North Shore, with its fine series of beaches and the innumerable sea-side villas of well-to-do Bostonians, to the extremity of Cape Ann. Among the numerous authors and artists who have frequented this lovely bit of sea-coast are Longfellow, Holmes, Whittier, Bayard Taylor, W. M. Hunt, J. Freeman Clarke, Susan Hale, and James T. Fields. Passing Montserrat, Pride's Crossing, Beverly Farms, and West Manchester, all with handsome country-houses, we reach (7 M.) Manchester-by-the-Sea (Masconomo, $4-5; Manchester Ho., $21/2), described by William Black as 'a small, scattered, picturesque-looking wateringplace, overlooking Massachusetts Bay, the Swiss-looking cottages of wood dotted down everywhere on the high rocks above the strand'. One of its special features is the Singing Beach, the white sand of which emits a musical sound when stirred. The Coolidge Memorial Library is interesting. From (9 M.) Magnolia Station omnibuses run to (21/2 M.) Magnolia (Magnolia, $3-31/2; Ocean Side, Hesperus, $3; Oak Grove, $21/2), another pleasant little watering-place on a rocky bluff, adjoined by the fine Crescent Beach. The beautiful woods round Magnolia are among its special charms. A little to the E. is the wonderful Rafe's Chasm (60 ft. deep and 6-10 ft. wide), opposite which is the black reef of Norman's Woe, immortalized by Longfellow in 'The Wreck of the Hesperus'. A handful of Penobscot Indians generally camp near Magnolia in summer and sell baskets, etc. The plants which have given name to the place (in bloom in July) grow in a swamp near the station.

13 M. Gloucester (Pavilion, $3; Ocean, $2), a quaint and foreignlooking city with 24,651 inhab., is said to be the largest fishing-port in the world, employing 5-6000 men in its fleets. Among the foreign vessels which put into its safe and capacious harbour are several Sicilian barques, bringing salt for the fish-carers. Gloucester is a great resort of artists, owing partly to the picturesqueness of the town itself and partly to the fine scenery of Cape Ann (p. 93). The outer harbour is protected by Eastern Point, with a lighthouse at its extremity. Here lies (21/2 M.) East Gloucester (Beachcroft; The Hawthorns, $2; Harbor View, $11/2-2), reached by electric tramway from the station, a pleasant little sea-bathing resort, affording a striking View, across the harbour, of many-spired Gloucester. Elisabeth Stuart Phelps (Mrs. Ward) has her summer-home here (see her 'Old Maid's Paradise'). The Bass Rocks and Good Harbor Beach (Bass Rock Ho., $3), lie a little to the N.E., facing the twin lighthouses on Thatcher's Island. A favourite outing from Gloucester is that 'Round the Cape' (14 M.), and excursions may also be made to (3 M.) Rafe's Chasm (see above) and to Norman's Woe (see above; by boat).

The railway ends at (17 M.) Rockport, where a huge breakwater is being constructed by the U. S. Government. Stages run hence, passing large granite quarries, to (2 M.) Pigeon's Cove (Pigeon Cove Ho., $21/2), a bathing-resort near the end of Cape Ann. Omnibuses also run from Rockport to the (11/2 M.) Land's End (Turk's Head, $3-4). To complete the round of the Cape we go on to Lanesville, Bay View, Annisquam, and Riverdale, and so back to Gloucester.

Returning to the mainland, we soon reach (23 M.) Wenham, with its lake known almost all over the world for its supplies of ice. The ice-houses are seen to the left. 28 M. Ipswich (Agawam Ho.), a quaint little town, with 4439 inhab. We cross the Parker River. 37 M. Newburyport (Wolfe Tavern, $2-211⁄2), ‘an ancient seablown city at the mouth of the Merrimac', with 13,947 inhab., like other old New England coast-towns, has turned from maritime commerce to manufactures (boots, cotton, silver, etc.). The Public Library (State St.) occupies an old colonial mansion in which Washington and Lafayette were entertained. The Marine Museum, in the same street, contains oversea curiosities. In High St. is a good Statue of Washington, by J. Q. A. Ward. George Whitefield (1714-1770), the famous preacher, is buried in the Old South Church (Federal St.), behind which is the house in which William Lloyd Garrison (18051879) was born. The old mansion of the eccentric Lord Timothy Dexter (High St.) is another of the town's lions.

OMNIBUSES and STEAMBOATS (on the Merrimac) ply daily from Newburyport to (4 M.) Salisbury Beach (Seaside Ho.), which extends for 6 M. to the N. of the Merrimac. A tramway runs to (21/2 M.) Plum Island (Plum Island Ho., $21/2-3), a long sand-dune running S. from the mouth of the Merrimac for 9-10 M. A steamboat also ascends the Merrimac to (11 M.) Haverhill. Other points of interest in the neighbourhood are (32 M.) Indian Hill Farm, the home of Ben. Perley Poore (1820-87; relics); the Devil's Den, a cave 2 M. to the S.; the Chain Bridge and Hawkswood, on the Merrimac, 3 M. to the N.

A branch-railway from Newburyport runs to (5 M.) Amesbury, long the home of John G. Whittier (1807-92), who has celebrated this whole neighbourhood in his poems and ballads.

In leaving Newburyport we cross the Merrimac by a bridge 500 yds. long (view). Beyond Salisbury we traverse the Folly Hill Woods and enter New Hampshire ('Granite State'). Farther on we cross salt marshes. 47 M. Hampton (Whittier Ho., $2) is the station for Hampton Beach (*Boar's Head, $ 2-3; Hampton Beach Ho., $11/221/2), 3 M. to the S.E. (stages at the station), and from (49 M.) North Hampton stages run to (31/2 M.) Rye Beach (Farragut, $31/2-4; Sea View, $31⁄2, etc.), the most frequented of the New Hampshire beaches. A charming shore-road runs N. from Rye Beach to (4 M.) Straw's Point, a station of the sub-marine cable to England. -53 M. Greenland is the station for (21/2 M.) the N. end of Rye Beach.

57 M. Portsmouth (Rockingham, $4; Kearsarge, $2-3 Webster, $11/2), the only seaport of New Hampshire, is situated on a peninsula 3 M. from the mouth of the Piscataqua. It is a quaint and quiet old town, with 9827 inhab. and pleasant tree-shaded streets. Many of the old colonial houses are interesting. The Athenaeum contains a

library and museum. On Continental or Fernald's Island, in the river, is the Kittery U. S. Navy Yard (ferry from Daniel St.). where the 'Kearsarge' was built and the old 'Constitution' is now laid up. T. B. Aldrich (b. 1836), James T. Fields (1817-81), and B. P. Shillaber ('Mrs. Partington', b. 1814) were born at Portsmouth, In Vaughan St. (No. 32) is the house to which Daniel Webster brought his young bride in 1808.

Stages run daily to (21/2 M.) Newcastle (*Wentworth Ho., $41/2), a summer-resort on an island at the mouth of the harbour. Close by, at Little Harbor, is the interesting old mansion of the Wentworth family (1750).

FROM PORTSMOUTH TO THE ISLES OF SHOALS, 10 M., steamer several times daily in 1 hr. The *Isles of Shoals are nine rocky islands, 6-9 M. from shore, frequented as summer-resorts on account of their pure sea-air and immunity from mosquitoes. The chief are Appledore (Appledore Ho., $31/2, 700 beds) and Star Island (Oceanic Ho., $31/2, 700 beds). On White Island, to the S.W., is a powerful lighthouse. See Celia Thaxter's 'Among the Isles of Shoals' and Lowell's 'Appledore'.

York

FROM PORTSMOUTH TO YORK BEACH, 10 M., railway in 3/4 hr. Beach (Marshall, $3-31/2, York Harbor Ho., $2-4, and Harmon, $21/2-3, station York Harbor; Bartlett, Garrison, $2-21/2, at the Long Sands, Long Beach station; Ocean Ho., $2-3, Atlantic, $11/2-2, etc., York Beach station) is another long stretch of sand, with numerous hotels and summer-cottages. At its N. end is Cape Neddick, with the rocky 'Nubble' (lighthouse) off its extremity; and 41/2 M. farther to the N. is Bald Head Cliff (85 ft. high). To the N. of this is Ogonquit Beach (Maxwell Ho., $2). Inland from York Beach rises (6 M.) Mt. Agamenticus (680 ft.; *View).

On leaving Portsmouth we cross the Piscataqua and enter Maine. At (67 M.) Conway Junction diverges a line to North Conway (p. 123). At (74 M.) North Berwick the Eastern Division of the Boston and Maine R. R. crosses the Western Division, and becomes in reality the W. or inland route. [The stations on both routes are the same, but as most of them lie near the sea they are better described in R. 9b (see below). In fact one of the E. Division trains runs hence to Portland on the W. Division tracks.]

108 M. Portland, see p. 96.

b. By the Western Division of the Boston and Maine Railroad. 115 M. RAILWAY in 3-8 hrs. (fares as above).

The train starts from the Haymarket Station (p. 72) and follows practically the same course as the E. Division till beyond the Mystic (comp. p. 90). It then keeps due N., while the E. Division turns to the N.E. 97 M. Melrose, with a winter-resort named the Langwood Hotel; 10 M. Wakefield, the junction of a line to (30 M.) Newburyport (p. 93).

23 M. Andover (Mansion Ho., Elm Ho., 212-3), an academic town with 6142 inhab., is best known through the Andover Theological Seminary, the chief educational institution in America of the Congregationalists (about 50 students). The Phillips Academy, the Punchard High School, and the Abbott Female Seminary also enjoy a considerable reputation. Mrs. Beecher Stowe moved to Andover while publishing 'Uncle Tom's Cabin' (comp. p. 97); and Mrs. Ward

(Eliz. Stuart Phelps) was born here and wrote "The Gates Ajar' in the still-standing Phelps House. At North Andover (on the Peabody & Lawrence branch) are the large Stevens Cotton Mills. 26 M. South Lawrence lies on the right bank of the Merrimac, opposite Lawrence (Franklin Ho., $2-3; Central Ho. $2), one of the largest industrial cities of New England, with 44,654 inhabitants. Its numerous large and substantial Cotton and Woollen Mills, employing 13,000 hands and producing annually 160 million yds. of cloth, line both sides of the Merrimac and are driven by water-power supplied by the construction of a huge dam in 1845 (fall of 28 ft.; 10,000 horsepower; value of manufactures in 1890, $26,400,000).

Beyond South Lawrence we descend along the right bank of the Merrimac to (323/4 M.) Bradford (with an old and famous academy for girls) and (3314 M.) Haverhill (Webster, $21/2), a shoemanufacturing town with 27,412 inhab. (manufactures in 1890, $25,340,000). The poet Whittier was born in 1807 near Lake Kenoza (the scene of 'Snowbound'), 1 M. to the N.E. of Haverhill. A branch-line runs from Haverhill to (16 M.) Newburyport (p. 93). We now enter New Hampshire (p. 92) and leave the Merrimac. 41 M. Newton Junction, for Amesbury (p.93). 51 M. Exeter (Rail. Restaurant; pop. 4284), with another Phillips Academy, which has numbered among its pupils Daniel Webster, George Bancroft, and Edw. Everett. 68 M. Dover (American Ho., $21/2), a cotton and woollen manufacturing city, with 12,790 inhab., settled in 1623. Dover is the junction of lines to (28 M.) Alton Bay, on Lake Winnepesaukee (p. 118), and to Portsmouth (p. 93).

Entering Maine, we cross the Salmon Falls River at (72 M.) Salmon Falls, with cotton-mills; and at (78 M.) North Berwick the W. Division intersects the E. Division (see p. 94). 85 M. Wells Beach (Bay View Ho., $1-2). To the right we have a view of the sea. From (90 M.) Kennebunk a line runs to (5 M.) Kennebunkport (*Ocean Bluffs Ho., $3-5; Parker Ho., $2-3; Glen Ho., $2-4), an old maritime village at the mouth of the Kennebunk, now in repute among summer visitors, who congregate chiefly on Cape Arundel.

99 M. Biddeford (Biddeford Ho., $2-21/2) and (100 M.) Saco (Saco Ho., $2), two busy little towns (14,443 and 6075 inhab.), on opposite sides of the Saco River, which here falls 55 ft. and furnishes water-power for cotton-mills, saw-mills, and machine-shops.

Steamers descend the Saco to (8 M.) Biddeford Pool (Sea View Ho.) at its mouth, connecting at Camp Ellis with Orchard Beach Railway (see below).

104 M. Old Orchard Beach (Old Orchard Ho., $4; Ocean Ho., Fiske, Seashore, etc., $2-3; Belmont, $11/2-3), one of the best and most popular bathing-beaches in New England. The train runs close to the beach, with the large hotels to the left. The beach extends from the Saco to (10 M.) Scarborough; the beach-railway runs from Camp Ellis (see above) to Old Orchard Beach Junction, on the E. Division.

Some trains cross the Merrimac and enter Lawrence proper.