red natives of the United States and Great Britain. The streets are generally wide but badly paved and ill-kept. Most of the buildings are of stone, and several of the public edifices are very handsome. The public squares and gardens and the residential suburbs are very attractive. The climate is equable (50-70° Fahr.), but is rendered unhealthy by the exhalations from the lakes and the defective drainage. The Spanish city of Mexico was founded in 1522 on the site of the ancient Aztec Tenochtitlan, the population of which is placed by tradition at from 300,000 to 500,000. Its growth has been steady and rapid. In 1600 it contained 15,000 inhab., in 1746 it had 90,000, and in 1800 it had about 120,000. Numerous ineffectual attempts have been made to drain the valley of Mexico (comp. p. 488), and large new works for that purpose were begun with English capital in 1890. The commerce of the city is mainly in transit. Its manufactures include cigars, gold and silver work, pottery, feather work, saddlery, paper, religious pictures, and hats. The *Cathedral (Church of the Asuncion de Maria Santisima), stands on the N. side of the PLAZA DE LA CONSTITUCION or PLAZA MAYOR, 5-10 min. walk from the Iturbide and other chief hotels. This edifice, which occupies the site of the chief Aztec temple (Teocalli), was begun in 1573 and finally dedicated in 1667. The towers, 218 ft. high, were not completed till 1791. It is 425 ft. long (from N. to S.), 200 ft. wide, and 180 ft. high. In style it is similar to the Spanish Renaissance edifices of the same period. The Interior, which is in the Doric style with traces of Gothic, has an imposing effect in spite of its huge and incongruous modern altars and the wooden flooring. The fine Dome is adorned with paintings. The Choir occupies the centre of the church and has richly carved stalls. The aisles are adjoined by rows of chapels, the most interesting of which are the Capilla San Felipe de Jesus, with the tomb of the Emp. Iturbide, the Cap. de las Reliquias, with paintings of martyrs by Juan de Herrera, and the Cap. San Pedro. The Sacristy and the Chapter House also contain interesting paintings. The heads of Hidalgo, Allende, Jimenez, and Aldama (comp. p. 485) are interred below the Altar de los Reyes, in the apse. The visitor should not fail to ascend one of the towers for the sake of the *View of the city (fee 121/2 c.). On the E. the Cathedral is adjoined by the *Sagrario Metropolitano, the first parish-church of the city, dating in its present form from 1749-69 and restored in 1858. It is in the florid style named after the Spanish architect Churrigera (close of 17th cent.). front of the Sagrario is the Martinez Monument, showing the geographical position of the city, the varying levels of Lake Texcoco, etc. In The centre of the Plaza Mayor is occupied by the pretty ZOCALO GARDEN, where a band generally plays in the evening. Many of the tramway-lines start in this square. On the E. side of the Plaza Mayor stands the huge Palacio Nacional, 675 ft. long, containing many of the governmental offices (interior open to visitors on Sun. and Thurs.). The chief points of interest are the large Hall of the Ambassadors (with portraits of Mexican celebrities) and the Senate Room. On the S. side of the Plaza are the Disputacion or Palacio del Ayuntamiento (City Hall) and the Portales Flores (shops). On the W. side are the Portales Mercaderes. To the S.E. of the Plaza is the chief Market of the city. Behind the Palacio Nacional and entered from the Calle de Moneda is the *National Museum (open daily, 10-12). The most valuable and interesting collections are the **Mexican Antiquities (from Yucatan, etc.), including the famous Aztec Sacrificial Stone and the Aztec Calendar. The Historical Collections are also of interest. See Catalogue (Engl. trans. by W. W. Blake). A little farther to the E., in the Calle Amor de Dios, is the *Academy of San Carlos (Museum of Fine Arts; 10-12), with good Italian and Flemish paintings and interesting collections of old and modern Mexican works (*Las Casas protecting the Indians, by Felix Parra, etc.). To the W. of the Cathedral, in the Calle del Empedradillo, is the Monte de Piedad, or National Pawn Office, founded in 1775 Valuable objects may often be procured here at low prices. The CALLE DE PLATEROS (now Avenida Oriente 4), forming with its prolongation the CALLE DE SAN FRANCISco (or Av. Poniente 4) the principal business-street of the city, leads to the W. from the Plaza Mayor to (1/2 M.) the *Alameda, a beautiful public garden, with fine beeches and a great variety of flowering trees and shrubs (band frequently; fashionable promenade on Sun. forenoon). — The CALLE DE CINCO DE MAYO (or Av. Poniente 1) running parallel with the Calle de San Francisco on the N., is also a fine street. It ends on the W. at the National Theatre (p. 489). Near the Buena Vista stations (p. 489) and adjoining the Guerrero Garden is the Church of San Fernando, the interesting cemetery attached to which contains the graves of Juarez (fine monument), Miramon (p. 488), Mejia (p. 488), Zaragossa, Guerrero, Comonfort, and other eminent Mexicans. Among the numerous other interesting buildings in the city, of which but a scanty selection can be named here, are the Biblioteca Nacional (nearly 200,000 vols.), in the Calle St. Augustin, a little to the S.W. of the Plaza Mayor, the Casa de Moneda (Mint), in the Calle de Apartardo; the *Mineria (School of Mines), in the Calle de San Andres (29-51), near the Alameda; the House of Congress, in the former Teatro Iturbide, at the corner of the Calle Primera del Factor and the Calle de la Canoa; the Church of Santo Domingo, in the plaza of the same name, a little to the N. of the Cathedral; the School of Medicine, opposite the last, occupied by the Inquisition for 250 years; the Church of La Santisima, with its finely carved façade, 114 M. to the E. of the Cathedral; and numerous other churches and charitable institutions. The fashionable drive of the Mexicans is the beautiful *PASEO DE LA REFORMA, which begins near the Alameda and runs to the S.W. to (2 M.) Chapultepec (see below). At the entrance is an equestrian statue of Charles IV., and the 'Glorietas', or circles (400 ft. in diameter), which occur at frequent intervals further on, are adorned with monuments to Columbus, Guatemotzin (the last Indian Emperor), Juarez, etc. The Paseo commands fine views of Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl (p. 492). Environs of Mexico. The chief point of interest in the immediate neighbourhood of the City of Mexico is the Palace of Chapultepec, finely situated on a rocky hill at the end of the Paseo de la Reforma (see above; also reached by the Tacubaya tramway from the Plaza Mayor, 121/2 c.). The present building, which occupies the site of Montezuma's Palace, dates from 1783-5, with later additions. It is occupied by President Diaz and by the National Military School (320 cadets). The fine old cypresses in the grove surrounding the palace (Cupressus disticha) reach a height of 120 ft. and a girth of 3040 ft. A monument commemorates the cadets who fell in the defence of the palace against the Americans in 1847. Beyond the hill is the battlefield of Molino del Rey (Sept. 8th, 1847). The View from the ramparts includes the city and valley of Mexico, with Popocatapetl and Ixtaccihuatl in the background. From Chapultepec the excursion may be extended (tramway 14 M.) to Tacubaya, with the National Observatory, two churches, a secularised convent, and beautiful private Gardens. About 24 M. to the N. of the city (tramway from the Plaza Mayor; 122 c.) is Guadalupe Hidalgo, with the sanctuary of the Virgin of Guadalupe, the patron-saint of Mexico and more especially of the Indians. The Virgin is believed to have appeared to an Indian, Juan Diego, in 1531, on the adjoining bill of Tepeyacac. At the foot of the hill is the large church of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, completed in 1709, containing a miraculous picture of the Virgin, imprinted on Diego's tilma (blanket). At the top of the hill is the Capilla del Cerrito, and close by is another chapel, covering a holy (chalybeate) spring. The singular monument on the hill was erected by a grateful seaman. * The curious Chinampas or Floating Gardens, near the villages of (2 M.) Santa Anita and (3 M.) Ixtacalco, are reached by the Viga Canal, leading to the S. from the city (tramway from the Plaza to the Canal 6 c.; boat to Santa Anita and back about $3/4-1, to Ixtacalco $2). This is a highly interesting trip and should be made at least as far as Santa Anita (most varied life seen on Sun.). The boats are a kind of rude parody of the Venetian gondola. A visit may be paid on the way to the Hacienda of Don Juan Corona, containing a collection of relics and a Charity school. The 'floating gardens' are now small pieces of ground separated by narrow canals and used for growing vegetables. The canal ends at (8 M.) the Lago de Xochimilico. At Popotla, 2/2 M. to the W. of the city (tramway from the Plaza; 12 c.), is the famous Arbol de la Noche Triste, or Tree of the Dismal Night, under which Cortes is said to have wept on the night of the expulsion of the Spaniards from Mexico (July 1st, 1520). It is a kind of cypress (see above). The road to it passes the Tlaxpana Aqueduct. The tramway goes on to Tacuba and (21/2 M. farther) Atzcapotzalco (18 c.). Tramway excursions may also be made to Dolores, Mixcoac and the Castañeda, La Piedad, San Angel, Tlalpam, and other points. The two magnificent snow-capped volcanoes of Popocatepetl (17,780 ft.) and Ixtaccihuatl (‘Ixtaciwatl'; 16,060 ft.) are conspicuous features in the environment of Mexico. The former is sometimes ascended from Amecameca, on the Interoceanic Railway; but the ascent is arduous and should not be attempted except by experienced mountaineers in good condition. Guides and horses may be obtained in Amecameca, but the bulk of the provisions should be brought from Mexico. The trip takes 2-3 days and costs about $40 for a single traveller and $25 for each member of a party. Other excursions by railway may be made to Texcoco (25 M.; Interoceanic Railway) on the site of the ancient city of the Chicimecs, with Aztec remains; to Toluca (see p. 483); to Orizaba, Cordoba, or Paso del Macho (see p. 494); to San Juan Teotihuacan (p. 493); to Puebla (p. 493), etc. From Mexico to El Paso, see R. 106; to Laredo, see R. 104; to Eagle Pass, see R. 105; to Vera Cruz, see R. 108. 108. From the City of Mexico to Vera Cruz. 263 M. MEXICAN RAILWAY (Ferrocarril Mexicano) in 11/2 hrs. (fare about $12-14). Only 33 lbs. of luggage are allowed free on this railway. Visitors to Mexico should at least make a trip over this railway a far as Orizaba or Paso del Macho for the sake of the magnificent scenery in the descent from the Mexican Plateau to the coast-level. Views to the right. City of Mexico, see p. 489. The train ascends to the N. and N.E., passing Guadalupe (p. 491; left) and Lake Texcoco (right), and farther on crosses immense plantations of ‘maguey' (see p. 488). Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl are seen to the S. 27 M. San Juan Teotihuacan, with two interesting 'Teocallis', or pyramids, dedicated to the Sun and Moon and believed to antedate the Toltecs (seen to the left, about 2 M. from the railway). The former is 216 ft. high, with a base measuring 760 ft. by 720 ft.; the other is smaller. 34 M. Otumba was the scene of a crucial battle between the Spaniards and Aztecs (July 8th, 1520). 48 M. Irolo (8045 ft.) and (57 M.) Apam are two of the chief centres of the trade in 'pulque' (p. 488). Beyond Apam we pass from the State of Hidalgo to that of Tlaxcala. Near (77 M.) Guadalupe (8330 ft.), Mt. Orizaba and the Malintzi are visible to the S.E. 86 M. Apizaco is the junction of a branch line to Puebla (see below). FROM APIZACO TO PUEBLA, 29 M., railway in 1/2 hr. Good views are obtained of the Malintzi (13,460 ft., left) and, in clear weather, of Popocatepetl, Ixtaccihuatl and Orizaba. From (10 M.) Santa Ana we may make an excursion by tramway to (5 M.) the ancient city of Tlaxcala, with interesting churches, relics of Cortes and other early Spaniards (in the Casa Municipal), etc. Beyond (22 M.) Panzacola the pyramid of Cholula (see below) is seen to the right. 29 M. Puebla (7200 ft.; Diligencias, Universal, $2), the capital of the state of the same name, with about 80,000 inhab., was founded in 1531 and is one of the most attractive cities in the country. The use of glazed and coloured tiles in external and internal decoration is a characteristic feature. Its most interesting products. for tourists are the articles made of Mexican onyx, baskets and mats of coloured straw, and pottery. The *CATHEDRAL, dating from the middle of the 17th cent., with later additions, is scarcely inferior to that of Mexico in size and importance, while its interior is more richly decorated. It is in the Spanish Renaissance style, with a central dome, barrel vaulting, and two lofty towers (view). Among the points of interest in the interior are the onyx decorations, the marquetry work, the paintings, the tapestry, the altars, and the organ-cases. — Other interesting churches are those of San Francisco, La Compania, and Nuestra Señora del Carmen. - Near the railway station is a large new Penitentiary. The Paseo along the Rio Atoyac affords a pleasant walk. A visit should be paid to Fort Guadalupe, on the hill where took place the famous battle of the Cinco de Mayo (1862). The fort commands a splendid **View, including Mts. Popocatepetl, Ixtaccihuatl, Orizaba, and Malintzi. About 8 M. to the W. of Puebla (railway) is Cholula (6910 ft., 5000 inhab.), with some interesting churches and the famous "Pyramid of Cholula, an artificial mound of sun-dried brick and clay, 204 ft. high, with a base about 1000 ft. square (approximately). It is built in terraces, three of which are distinctly recognizable. The top, consisting of a platform 165 ft. square, crowned by the Church of the Virgin de los Remedios, is reached by a winding stone-paved road, ending in a flight of steps. The View is very fine. The construction of the pyramid is ascribed to the Olmecs or Toltecs, but its date and purpose are obscure. 137 M. San Andres is the starting-point for the difficult ascent of *Mt. Orizaba or Citlatepetl (18,245 ft.), now ascertained to be the highest mountain in Mexico and in N. America. The mountain is seen to the left. At (152 M.) Esperanza (7980 ft. ; Rail. Restau rant) begins a very rapid descent, to surmount which trains coming in the reverse direction require the aid of double-headed Fairlie locomotives. The scenery on this portion of the line is very grand, and its engineering is very remarkable. The vegetation becomes of tropical richness as we near the tierra caliente, or hot lands of the coast, including orange, lime, citron, banana, and pomegranate trees, sugar cane, palms, coffee plants, and a great variety of brilliant flowering trees and shrubs. Beyond (156 M.) Boca del Monte (7925 ft.), where we look down into the valley 3000 ft. below us (right), the train runs along a terrace on the mountain-side, threading several tunnels and crossing several bridges. 166 M. La Bota. At (169 M.) Maltrata (5550 ft.) we reach the smiling valley of La Joya ('The Jewel'). A little farther on we pass the wild gorge named the *Barranca del Infiernillo ('Little Hell'), with the Rio Blanco 600 ft. below us. Near Orizaba we round the Cerro del Borrego, where a small French force repulsed a large number of Mexicans in 1862. 181 M. Orizaba (4090 ft.; La Borda, Diligencias, $2), a quaint little town of 15,000 inhab., the capital of the State of Vera Cruz, lies in a valley surrounded by mountains and contains some interesting churches, with numerous examples of the work of the local painter Barranco. Excellent fruit may be bought here very cheaply. The reed-thatched huts of this region are thoroughly tropicallooking. Beyond Orizaba we cross the fine *Ravine of the Metlac by a bridge, 92 ft. high, and other bridges and tunnels are passed (good engineering). 192 M. Fortin; 197 M. Córdoba (2710 ft.; fine fruit); 210 M. Atoyac (1510 ft.). A little farther on are the *Falls of the Atoyac. 216 M. Paso del Macho (1500 ft.). Beyond this point the scenery is uninteresting, and this may be made the turning-point for those who do not intend to take ship at Vera Cruz. Near (237 M.) Soledad we cross the Jamapa by a long bridge. 254 M. Tejeria. 263 M. Vera Cruz (Diligencias, $21/2; Hotel de Mexico, $2), a seaport on the Gulf of Mexico, with 24,000 inhab., lies in a dreary sandy plain and contains comparatively little of interest to the tourist. Its commerce has declined since the opening of railway communication with the United States. The climate is hot and very unhealthy n summer. Steamers ply regularly from Vera Cruz to New York, New Orleans, Galveston, and other American ports; and good sailors may prefer one of these routes in entering or leaving Mexico. - * FROM VERA CRUZ TO JALAPA, 82 M., Interoceanic Railway of Mexico in 6 hrs. Jalapa (4335 ft.; Veracruzano, Mexicano, $2), a quaint old city with 18,000 inhab., beautifully situated among the mountains, is, perhaps, the most charming summer-resort in Mexico, with a cool and refreshing climate. Many delightful excursions can be made from it. Jalapa derives its name from this city. The women of Jalapa are distinguished for their beauty. |