12 inches long and 6 inches thick). 355 M. Edgewood (2955 ft.) commands a good retrospect of Mt. Shasta. We now ascend the Shasta Valley, with the Shasta River at some distance to the right. From (377 M.) Montague (2540 ft.) the Siskiyou Mts. (7660 ft.) are visible to the left. Near (395 M.) Hornbrook (2155 ft.) we cross the Klamath River and begin to ascend the Siskiyou Mts. (gradient 4: 100). Beyond (404 M.) Coles (2905 ft.) we enter Oregon (Webfoot State'). The line passes through a long tunnel just before reaching the summit at (414 M.) Siskiyou (4130 ft.). To the right is Pilot Rock (6430 ft.), the S. outpost of the Cascade Mts. (p. 376). The train now descends rapidly, through tunnels and round curves, into Rogue River Valley.-431 M. Ashland (1900 ft.; 1784 inhab.). Mt. Pitt (9760 ft.) rises to the right. — 446 M. Medford (1400 ft.) is the nearest station to (85 M.) the curious Crater Lake.

Crater Lake (6800 ft.), not yet easily accessible to the ordinary tourist, lies in the heart of the Cascade Mts., occupying the crater of an extinct volcano. It is 7 M. long and 5 M. wide. Its most peculiar feature is the perpendicular enclosing wall of igneous rock, 1000-2000 ft. high, in which there is no opening. There is no visible affluent or outflow, but the water, though destitute of animal life, is fresh and sweet. The lake is over 2000 ft. deep. Wizard Island, in the centre of the lake, is a curious instance of a crater within a crater. The road to the lake is good, and the descent to the water's edge is easier than it looks. The district containing this. lake has been set apart as the Oregon National Park.

Beyond Medford, to the right, stands Table Rock. 476 M. Grant's Pass (960 ft.); 510 M. Glendale (965 ft.); 552 M. Myrtle Creek (635 ft.); 574 M. Roseburg (490 ft.; 1472 inhab.), on the Umpqua River. To the right is Mt. Scott (7125 ft.), and farther on, on the same side, are the Three Sisters (8500 ft.). Beyond (649 M.) Eugene (455 ft.) we descend the pretty and well-wooded valley of the Willámette (left). 667 M. Harrisburg (335 ft.). 692 M. Albany (240 ft.) is the junction of a line to (11 M.) Corvallis and (83 M.) Yaquina, on Yaquina Bay (p. 462). · 720 M. Salem (190 ft.; Willamette Hotel, $2), the capital of Oregon, a small city with 4515 inhab., the State Capitol, and various other State buildings and institutions. 757 M. Oregon City (95 ft.), with 3062 inhab., possesses a fine waterpower supplied by the Falls of the Willamette (40 ft.).—771 M. East Portland (55 ft.). The train then crosses the Willamette and reaches its destination.

772 M. Portland (*The Portland, from $3; St. Charles, Gilman, Perkins, on the European plan; Esmond, $2-21/2; Grand Central), the business capital of the Pacific North-West, is advantageously situated on the Willamette, 12 M. above its confluence with the Columbia (see p. 394). Pop. (1890) 46,385, or, including East Portland and Albina, now incorporated with the city, 62,046. These figures include about 3000 Chinese. Its position at the head of deepsea-navigation on the Columbia and Willamette and its extensive railway connections with the N., E., and S. have made Portland an important commercial centre, and it ranks among the wealthiest cities of

its size in the country. The streets are well laid out and have a more substantial look than those of many western towns.

Portland was first settled in 1843, and its growth since then has been rapid and uninterrupted. The annual value of its exports now amounts to about $15,000,000 (3,000,000 7.), the chief articles being wheat, flour, wool, fish (salmon, etc.), and timber. It manufactures pig iron, woollen goods, flour, furniture, beer, cordage, and other goods to the annual value of $25,000,000 (5,000,000 7.). It has steamship lines to San Francisco and other ports on the Pacific Coast, Puget Sound, British Columbia, Alaska, and Japan, while its sailing vessels ply to Great Britain, China, South America, and New York. The annual rainfall at Portland is 53 inches.

The new UNION RAILWAY STATION, at the corner of N. 5th and I Sts., will be a roomy and handsome building, with a tall clock-tower. A little to the S.W. of it, in the block enclosed by Jefferson, Madison, 4th, and 5th Sts., is the new CITY HALL, still uncompleted. Other important edifices in the business part of the city are the Chamber of Commerce (Stark St.), the Post Office and Custom House (5th St.), the Court House (4th St.), the Opera House (Morrison St.), the Daily Oregonian Office (cor. of 6th and Alder Sts.), and the Marquam Block (Morrison St.). The Public Library, 7th St., is a tasteful Romanesque building. The Portland Hotel (see p. 460), between 6th, 7th, Yamhill, and Morrison Sts., is a handsome structure. The Portland Industrial Fair Building, on the outskirts of the city, is used for annual exhibitions. Some of the Churches, Schools, and Charitable Institutions are worthy representatives of the city's wealth. Among other objects of interest are the huge Pacific Coast Elevator (capacity 1,000,000 bushels) and the fine Steel Bridge over the Willamette.

The visitor to Portland will, however, best use his leisure by ascending the Portland Heights on the W. side of the city (easily reached on foot or by tramway) for the sake of the magnificent *MOUNTAIN VIEW they command. Mt. Hood (see below), 60 M. to the S.E., is the most prominent peak, but the rounded dome of Mt. St. Helens (p. 377; 50 M. to the N.), Mt. Adams (p. 376), and Mt. Rainier (p. 377) are visible, and the view also includes the Coast Range and the valleys of the Columbia and Willamette. The best point for this view is Fairmount, 1000 ft. above the city and about 1 hr.'s walk or 3/4 hr.'s drive from its centre.

Excursions from Portland.

The favourite excursion from Portland is the voyage up the Columbia River to (60 M.) the Cascades and to the (110 M.) Dalles (fare $32; returnfare $5; comp. p. 394; Union Pacific Office, cor. of 3rd and Washington Sts.). The traveller may take the train to the Dalles, spend the night there, and return next morning by the steamer. If the trip is made only one way, the steamer should be preferred, as the scenery is not seen to the best advantage from the train. The boats leave early in the morning, but travellers can go on board the night before. On the way, 18 M. from Portland, we pass Vancouver, the military headquarters of the Department of the Columbia.

Steamers (office as above) also descend the Lower Columbia to (106 M.) Astoria (ca. 8 hrs.), affording a good view of the wide estuary of a great river. A visit to a Salmon Cannery may be combined with the trip. Astoria (Occidental Hotel, $21/2), a small seaport with 6184 inhab., formerly

famous for its fur-trade, has 3 M. of wharves on the Columbia. Excursions may be made hence to (16 M.) Clatsop Beach (Hotel) and North Beach (in Washington; return-ticket from Portland to either of the Beaches, $41/2).

The Willamette affords another pleasant trip, steamers plying regularly

to Oregon City (p. 460), Dayton, and Corvallis (p. 460).

*Mt. Hood is conveniently ascended from Portland by taking the train to (66 M.) Hood River (comp. p. 394).

Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Jefferson, and the Three Sisters may also be visited from Portland; but the trails are rough and camping out is necessary in each case.

Among other points of interest visited from Portland are the Multnomah Falls (p. 394), Crater Lake (p. 460), and Yaquina (p. 460), Newport (Ocean House), and other places on Yaquina Bay (8 hrs. by train; return-fare $6). From Portland to Tacoma (for Seattle, British Columbia, Alaska, etc.), see R. 103; to Omaha and the East, see R. 86.

101. From San Francisco to New Orleans.

2496 M. SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY ('Sunset Route') in about 4 days (fare $67.50; sleeper $13). Through-carriages.

From San Francisco to (482 M.) Los Angeles, see R.95. On leaving Los Angeles the train runs to the E. through the fruitful San Gabriel Valley (p. 446). - 492 M. San Gabriel (410 ft.; Hotel San Gabriel, $21/2-31/2) is the site of the interesting Mission de San Gabriel Arcangel, founded in 1771. The Mission Church, erected in 1804 with material imported from Spain, is seen to the left, just before we enter the station. The old Mission gardens and vineyards deserve a visit. Pasadena (see p. 446) lies about 3 M. to the N.W. To the N. and E. is the Sierra Madre Range (p. 446). 515 M. Pomona (860 ft.; The Palomares, $21/2), with 3634 inhab., is one of the prettiest and most prosperous of the fruit-growing towns in the San Bernardino Valley (p. 447). 521 M. Ontario (980 ft.; Ontario, $2; South Pacific), a brisk little fruit-growing town with 1064 inhab., lies in the midst of a striking landscape, with the four highest mountains of S. California in sight (Mt. St. Bernardino and Grayback to the E., San Jacinto to the S.E., and Mt. San Antonio or Old Baldy to the N.). It is connected with (7 M.) N. Ontario (p. 447) by the beautiful Euclid Avenue, planted with eucalyptus and pepper trees and traversed by a gravity tramway.

540 M. Colton (965 ft.; Trans-Continental Hotel, $21/2-3; Marlborough Ho., $2), a town of 1315 inhab., is of importance as the junction of lines to San Bernardino (p. 447), on the N., and San Diego (p. 449), on the S. It grows large quantities of fruits of various kind and is widely known for its excellent black and white marble (comp. p. 430). — The train now begins to ascend rapidly towards the ridge of the San Bernardino Mts., which we cross, at (563 M.) Beaumont, by the San Gorgonio Pass (2560 ft.). On the other side we descend as rapidly towards the Colorado Desert (see below). To the right are the striking San Jacinto Mts. (highest summit 10,990 ft.), to the left the San Bernardino Range. The Colorado Desert, which we now traverse for about 150 M., is a

barren sandy wilderness, a great part of which actually lies below sea-level (see below). Almost nothing grows on it except cactus and yucca-palms. The Gulf of California would seem to have extended to the vicinity of the San Gorgonio Pass and when it receded left a large inland sea of salt-water, which finally dried up, leaving large deposits of salt near Salton (see below). - 569 M. Banning (2320 ft.); 575 M. Cabazon (1780 ft.); 583 M. White Water (1125 ft.). About 7 M. to the S.W. of (589 M.) Palm Springs (585 ft.) lies Palm Valley (Inn), at the E. base of the San Jacinto Mts., with the only natural grove of date palms in California and a curious hot sandspring. It is now frequented to some extent as a health-resort, and fruit-growing is also carried on. - - At (612 M.) Indio (Rail. Restaurant) we are about 20 ft. below the level of the sea, and at (637 M.) Salton we reach the lowest point, 263 ft. below sea-level. In 1891 a lake, 30 M. long, 10M. wide, and 4ft. deep, was created near Salton by the Colorado River, the country thus partly reverting for a time to the physical conditions mentioned above. 661 M. Volcano Springs (225 ft. below sea-level). At (671 M.) Flowing Well we are again 5 ft. above sea-level. 703 M. Cactus (395 ft.) — Farther on we cross the Colorado River, and enter Arizona (p. 413).

The

731 M. Yuma (140ft.; Southern Pacific Hotel, with Rail. Restaurant, $21/2), one of the hottest places in the country, which was established by the Spanish missionaries in 1700 and lies on the Colorado just below its confluence with the Gila ('Heela'). The Mexican frontier is only 7 M. to the S. The Yuma Indians, specimens of whom sell bows and arrows, etc., at the railway-station, have a reservation adjoining the Colorado. The Territorial Prison is situated at Yuma. train now follows the course of the Gila (left) through an arid and unattractive district. Cacti are abundant, including many specimens of the giant cactus (Cereus giganteus; Mex. sahuaro), often 40 ft. high and 'looking like a Corinthian column surmounted by candelabra'. Mirages are often seen in crossing Arizona by this route. To the left rise the Castle Dome Mts., to the right the Gila Range. Farther on other mountains are seen on both sides. 791 M. Mohawk Summit (540 ft.); 854 M. Gila Bend (735 ft.; Rail. Restaurant); 873 M. Estrella (1520 ft.). From (896 M.) Maricopa (1175 ft.) a branch-line runs to the N. to (35 M.) Phoenix (Commercial Hotel, Lemon Ho., $21/2), the capital of Arizona, a city of 3152 inhab., in the Salt River Valley. The remains of several prehistoric towns have been found in the vicinity. About 16 M. to the N. (2 hrs. by stage) of (917 M.) Casa Grande (1395 ft.; Fryer Hotel, $2) are the highly interesting remains of the pueblo of Casa Grande or Chichitilaca, with enormous adobe walls. The line continues to ascend steadily.

982 M. Tucson (pron. "Toosahn'; St. Xavier, $21/2-3; Palace; Rail. Restaurant, $2-3), a quaint old Spanish-looking place with 5150 inhab., is the largest city of Arizona and carries on a considerable trade with Mexico. It contains the Territorial University and

an Indian School. About 9 M. to the S. is the old mission-church of St. Xavier, founded at the close of the 17th century. Beyond Tucson the Santa Rita Mts. are seen to the right, culminating in Mt. Wrightson (10,315 ft.); to the left are the Santa Catalina Mts. 1029 M. Benson (3580 ft.) is the junction of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé line to Guaymas, on the W. coast of Mexico (Gulf of California). At (1050 M.) Dragoon Summit (4615 ft.) we reach the highest point of this part of the line and begin to descend slightly. 1071 M. Wilcox (4165 ft.); 1079 M. Railroad Pass (4395 ft.); 1095 M. Bowie (3760 ft.). At (1125 M.) Stein's Pass (4350 ft.), in the Peloncillo Range, we enter New Mexico (p. 419). 1145 M. Lordsburg (4245 ft.), the junction of a branch-line to Clifton; 1175 M. Wilna (4555 ft.) 1204 M. Deming (4335 ft.; Depot Hotel, $3), a place of 1136 inhab., is the junction of the A., T., & S. F. line to Rincon (for La Junta, Denver, etc.; see p. 409) and also of a short line to (48 M.) Silver City. 1215 M. Zuñi (4185 ft.; not to be confused with the pueblo mentioned at p. 413). Beyond (1288 M.) Rogers we cross the Rio Grande and enter Texas ('Lone Star State'), the largest state in the Union (265,780 sq. M., or larger than France).

1293 M. El Paso (3715 ft.; Vendome, $21/2-31/2; Pierson; Rail. Restaurant), a city of 10,338 inhab., is situated on the left bank of the Rio Grande and has become a place of some industrial importance, with silver-smelting works and cattle-yards. It is the chief gateway of the trade between the United States and Mexico. Just across the river is the Mexican town of Juarez or El Paso del Norte (see p. 485), connected with El Paso by an 'international' tramway. El Paso is the S. terminus of the A. T. & S. F. line (R. 91 b), the W. terminus of the Texas & Pacific Railway (R. 102), and the N. terminus of the Mexican Central Railway (R. 106). Railway time changes here from the 'Pacific' to the 'Central' standard (2 hrs. faster); local time accords with the 'Mountain' standard (comp. p. xviii).

At

Beyond El Paso the line follows the general course of the Rio Grande, here forming the boundary between Texas and Mexico. Antelopes are occasionally seen from the train. 1298 M. Ysleta (3665 M.); 1340 M. Fort Hancock (3520 ft.); 1377 M. Sierra Blanca (4510 ft.; Rail. Restaurant); 1446 M. Valentine (4425 ft.); 1481 M. Marfa (4690 ft.), the main depot for Fort Davis, a little to the N. (1495 M.) Paisano (5080 ft.) we reach the highest point on the Southern Pacific Railway between San Francisco and New Orleans (1055 ft. higher than the Tehachapi Pass, p. 442). Fine mountain scenery. 1556 M. Haymond (3885 ft.); 1601 M. Sanderson (2780 ft.; Rail. Restaurant); 1674 M. Langtry (1320 ft.), a military post. The Rio Grande is again in sight. Beyond (1685 M.) Shumla (1420 ft.) we cross the Pecos River by a fine cantilever bridge, 2180 ft. long and 328 ft. high (one of the highest railway-bridges in the world). Near (1695 M.) Painted Cave (1005 ft.), in the cañon of the Rio Grande, is a large cavern with some curious and undeci