it affords an excellent view (carriages to the top in 3 hrs., descent in 2 hrs.). The drive may include the Lagunitas Reservoir. San Rafael may be easily taken in in conjunction with Sausalito (see p. 433). 30 M. Petaluma (American Hotel, $2-3), with 3692 inhab., has a thriving trade in grain and fruit. 45 M. Santa Rosa; 50 M. Fulton, the junction of a branch-line to Guerneville; 512 M. Mark West, with sulphur springs; 60 M. Healdsburg. From (681/2 M.) Geyserville stages run to (8 M.) Skaggs' Springs, with a number of warm sulphur springs. From (78 M.) Cloverdale (United States Hotel, $2) a stage-coach runs to (16 M.) the Geyser Springs (2000 ft.; Hotel, $3), a number of boiling springs in the Devil's Cañon, near the Pluton River. These springs vary greatly in temperature, appearance, and character, but there are no true geysers among them (comp. p. 379). The accepted theory ascribes them to chemical action. A guide is procured at the hotel to point out and name the most interesting features. The Geyser Springs may also be reached from Calistoga (see below). Beyond Cloverdale the line continues to run towards the N., with Russian River at some distance to the right. 90 M. Fountain; 103 M. El Robles. It is proposed to extend the line from (107 M.) Ukiah, the present terminus, to Eureka, on Humboldt Bay.]

(3). The third ferry is that to Oakland, already mentioned at p. 399. This is the route for the chief railways to the N., S., and E.

(4). Another line runs to (3 M.) Alameda Mole, whence a railway runs to (6 M.) Alameda (Yosemite Hotel, $2), a pleasant suburban town (11,165 inbab.), adjoining Oakland on the S. This route connects with the narrow-gauge railway to San José and Santa Cruz (see p. 440).

FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO CALISTOGA, 73 M., railway in 31/4-31/2 hrs. · From San Francisco to (29 M.) Vallejo Junction, see p. 399. We then cross the strait by steamer to (31 M.) South Vallejo. 32 M. North Vallejo ('Vallayho'), a small town of 6343 inhab., opposite Mare Island (p. 433). The train now runs to the N. through the fertile *Napa Valley, which is especially rich in grapes and other fruits. From (38 M.) Napa Junction, a branch-line runs to (13 M.) Suisun (p. 398). From (46 M.) Napa, a busy little city of 4395 inhab., we may drive to the (6 M.) Napa Soda Springs. Beyond (55 M.) Yountville we traverse extensive vineyards. 64 M. St. Helena, with many fine vineyards, is the starting-point of stages to White Sulphur Springs, Etna Springs, and Howell Mountain. 73 M. Calistoga (Magnolia, $2-21/2), the terminus of the railway, is a pretty little town of 1200 inhab., with several warm mineral springs. About 5 M. to the W. is the curious Petrified Forest, a tract 4 M. long and 1 M. wide, over which are scattered the remains of about 100 petrified trees. About 12 M. to the N.W. of Calistoga rises Mt. St. Helena (4345 ft.), an extinct volcano, which may be ascended on horseback and affords an extensive view. From Calistoga stage-coaches run daily to (27 M.) the Geyser Springs (see above).

FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO MOUNT DIABLO. We proceed by ferry and train to (36 M.) Martinez, as described at p. 441, and go on thence by stage to (2 M.) Clayton (Clayton Hotel, $11/2), whence the summit (6 M.) is easily reached on horseback or on foot. Mt. Diablo (3855 ft.), a conspicuous object for many miles round and well seen from San Francisco (28 M. distant as the crow flies), commands a very extensive *View, including the valleys of the Sacramento to the N. and the San Joaquín to the S., the Sierra Nevada from Lassen's Peak on the N. to Mt. Whitney on the S. (325 M.), the Coast Range, and San Francisco.

Sonoma (Union Hotel, $2), a city of 1200 inhab., in the Sonoma Valley, to the N. of San Pablo Bay, is interesting as one of the chief seats of the Californian vine-culture. The wine is kept in tunnels excavated in the hills of volcanic sandstone. Sonoma is reached by railway (43 M.) from Tiburon (p. 433) or by stage (15 M.), from Napa (see above).

Californian Wine (communicated). Wine-making in California dates from an early period, the European vine having been brought here the early missionaries. No record has been found of the date of the nor can the species introduced be identified with any known sort.

It was probably brought from one of the Balearic Isles, the first missionaries having all been Catalans from Majorca, or it was, perhaps, a seedling raised on the spot. However this may be, it had attained a wide diffusion before the transfer of the country to the United States and was then found growing at almost all the Missions. Its fruit is abundant and quite palatable for the table, but makes a strong heady wine, not suited to the demands of commerce, though popular enough among a pastoral people, whose lives were spent out of doors and largely in the saddle. The first effort of the American emigration to improve the native wines did not meet with a distinguished success. They reasoned, justly enough, that California had within her borders every variety of soil and a climate decidedly superior to that of any part of Europe, because free from the unseasonable storms and inopportune frosts which so affect the viticulturists of the old world. They were, however, ignorant that besides soil and climate it was indispensable, in order to make a good wine, to have the proper sorts of grapes; for a fine wine can no more be made from a vulgar grape than the proverbial 'silk purse from a sow's ear'. In fact the most eminent French authority on the subject lays down the rule broadly that 'the brand of the wine is in the grape'. The distinctive character of the wine of Burgundy is derived from the Pinot. grape; and, in like manner, those of the Rhine, the Moselle, and the Medoc derive their essential characteristics from the particular sorts of grapes cultivated in those districts. But while the character of the wine depends on the grape from which it is made, its quality, within the range of that defined character, depends on soil, situation, exposure, and climate. All this is now recognized as elementary truth, but was little known even a decade ago.

The Germans were the first to improve the native wines. Finding the Mission grape did not make a wine suited to their national taste, they, at an early date, imported scions of the favorite stocks of their own country and propagated them. As a rule the Germans make white wine, and their choice of sorts was limited to those appropriate for such. Hence the white wines of California experienced a marked improvement twenty years ago, while her red wines continued to be still made of the mission grape. The late Col. Harasthy introduced many years since the Zinfandel and some other European vines for the production of red wine, but they were all what the French term 'cépages d'abondance'. i. e. sorts which produced large crops. With the grape, however, as with many other things, quantity and quality go in inverse proportion. The Zinfandel grape was extensively propagated and became popular, for it was a decided improvement on the mission sort, had the advantage of being an early and abundant bearer, and made a wine which matured in two years. To the immigrants from the South of Europe Frenchmen, Spaniards, Italians, Greeks, Dalmatians, etc., of whom such large numbers are to be found on the Pacific Coast - it was quite a boon, for it supplied them with their accustomed beverage, at a reasonable price, and it came just at the time when the devastations of the phyloxera in France rendered it almost impossible to obtain any ordinary claret of that country pure. Within the limits of the domestic demand, too, its production was profitable, by reason of its bountiful crops. But that limit was rigidly fixed. The product of the Zinfandel grape is essentially a peasant's wine; its consumption cannot be indefinitely extended by mere cheapness. No converts were ever made from whiskey or beer to wine by such a beverage, and those accustomed to the use of wine as a luxury consumers of the better sorts of French wines found it decidedly unpalatable. Hence production soon trod closely on the heels of consumption, and erelong outstripped it. For some years there has been no profit in the industry.

Meantime about 1880 and 1881 intelligent Americans had their attention directed to viticulture, and erelong learned, as the Germans had learned before them, with respect to white wines, that to make red wines, fit to compete with the products of the French vineyards, the first requirement was to have the proper sorts of grapes. They accordingly began about the date mentioned to import and propagate the sorts from which the

great wines of France are made, and from that period dates the marked improvement of California red wines. A characteristic of these grapes, however, is the largely enhanced expense of cultivating them, the smallness of their crops, and the length of time necessary to bring their wine to maturity and render it fairly potable; so that the cost of the wine to the producer is enhanced in a degree quite proportioned to its increased value. The wine dealers who have become accustomed to the cheap blends made on a Zinfandel base are averse to the burden of carrying stocks for four or five years without an assured return for enlarged rents, quadrupled stocks of cooperage, and quadrupled care in handling. From this cause those in quest of the best California wines - especially red wines have to seek them in the hands of the producers.

The principal districts of the state in which the vine has been extensively cultivated are: 1. The plain of which Los Angeles may be considered the centre and which was the centre of population in Spanish and Mexican days; 2. The San Joaquin Valley; 4. Napa and Sonoma Counties, to the N. of San Francisco Bay; 4. Santa Clara County, with the adjoining mountains of Santa Cruz to the S. of it. The Los Angeles and San Joaquin Valleys, from their great heat, are best able to produce wines of the Spanish and Portuguese types. From the proper sorts of grapes, grown in these districts, are made very fair ports and sherries, while brandy and very fine raisins are also produced there in considerable quantities. In Napa and Sonoma the vine is extensively cultivated, and excellent white wines of the Rhenish type are made. The prevailing use of the Zinfandel grape is, however, hostile to the production of red wines of any high quality, while the extensive diffusion of the phyloxera in both those counties threatens the extinction of the industry within a moderate time. The Santa Cruz mountains, and especially the adjoining foot-hills in Santa Clara County, are producing quite a considerable amount of excellent wine of the Bordeaux type, both red and white. Bordeaux stocks have been imported and extensively planted, and the local situation resembles so strikingly that of the Medoc as to suggest a natural correspondence in products. In fact Santa Clara and the S. part of San Mateo counties are thrust out between the waters of the Ocean and those of the Bay of San Francisco just as the Medoc is between the Bay of Biscay and the estuary of the Garonne, and the tempering effects of these large bodies of water on the climate and vegetation of the intermediate tongue of land must constitute an important factor in the quality of the viticultural products.

The production of wine in the State, according to the reports of the State Viticultural Commission. rose from about 4,000,000 gallons in 1877 to 22,000.000 gallons in 1890, declining again to 12,500,000 gallons in 1892.

94. From San Francisco to San José, Santa Cruz, and Monterey.

a. Via Standard-Gauge Railway.

SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY to (50 M.) San José in 2 hrs. (fare $1.25; parlor-car 25 c.); to (121 M.) Santa Cruz in 4-41/2 hrs. ($3); to (125 M.) Monterey in 4-41/2 hrs. ($3).

This excursion should not be omitted by any visitor to San Francisco. It is advisable to go one way and return the other; and in any case the section of the narrow-gauge railway between San José and Santa Cruz should be included. Perhaps the best plan is to go to Monterey (p. 439) by the standard-gauge railway, stopping off for visits to Palo Alto (p. 437), San José (p. 438), etc.; return viâ Pajaro (p. 439) to Santa Cruz (p. 441); drive thence to the Big Trees (p. 441); and thence take the narrowgauge line back to San Francisco. The drives across the Sierra Morena (see p. 437) are well worth taking.

San Francisco, see p. 428. The train starts from the station at the corner of 4th and Townsend Sts. (p.428), stops again at the corner

of 26th and Valencia Sts., and soon leaves the city behind. At (7 M.) Ocean View (290 ft.) we see the Pacific Ocean to the right. About 3 M. beyond (9 M.) Colma, a small wayside station, San Francisco Bay, which we skirt for 30 M., comes into view on the left. 12 M. Baden; 14 M. San Bruno; 17 M. Millbrae, with the large countryhouse of Mr. D. O. Mills (right). 21 M. San Mateo, a pleasant little town, embosomed in live-oaks, is the starting-point of a stageline to (32 M.) Pescadero (through-fare $3.10).

The road to Pescadero crosses the Sierra Morena (views), passing the interesting old village of Spanishtown. The Cliffs at Gordon's Landing tower 250 ft. above the sea, recalling the Shakespeare Cliff at Dover. Pescadero (Swanton Ho., $11/2-2), a small village on the Pacific coast, at the mouth of Pescadero Valley, is famous for its Pebble Beach, on which agates, opals, jaspers, and other similar stones are found.

25 M. Belmont. 28 M. Redwood (Price's Hotel), so named from the trees in the timber of which it does its principal trade. A fine road runs hence across the Sierra Morena to San Gregorio, traversing a splendid redwood forest (*Views). - 32 M. Menlo Park (Menlo Park Hotel, Oak Villa, from $2) is a favourite residence of the wealthy merchants of San Francisco and contains many fine houses, surrounded by beautifully laid out grounds and noble trees. Beyond Menlo Park the red roofs of the Stanford University (see below) may be seen to the right. 33 M. Palo Alto (Palo Alto taking its name ('tall tree') from a fine redwood to the left of Hotel), the railway, is the nearest station to the (1 M.) University.

*Leland Stanford Jr. University, founded by Mr. and Mrs. Leland Stanford in memory of their only son and endowed by them with upwards of $ 30,000,000 (6,000,0001.), was opened in Oct., 1891, with a staff of about 40 instructors and an attendance of 550 students, of whom 150 were women. It is finely situated on the Palo Alto stock-farm (a tract of 8400 acres, deeded to the University), on a plain near the foot of the coast mountains. The buildings were mainly designed by H. H. Richardson, who took the motif of their architecture from the cloisters of the San Antonio Mission. The material is buff, rough- faced sandstone, surmounted by red-tiled roofs, producing brilliant effects of colour in conjunction with the live oak, white oak, and eucalyptus trees outside, the tropical plants in the quadrangle, and the blue sky overhead. The main buildings at present form a low quadrangle, enclosing a court 586 ft. long and 246 ft. wide, the buildings of which are connected on the inner side by a beautiful colonnade; and there are besides two dormitories, an art museum, a mechanical department, and a little village of professors' houses. The completed scheme includes an outer, two-storied quadrangle, with cloisters on the outside, a memorial arch, and a chapel with a Richardsonesque tower. Near the University are the celebrated *Palo Alto Stables and Paddocks (Mr. Stanford's), where 1100 fine trotting horses and 500 running horses may be seen. Among the most famous horses bred at this stud are Sunol (who trotted a mile in 2 min. 71/2 sec.), Palo Alto (2.83/4), Arion, Electioneer, Electricity, and Advertiser. The success of the Palo Alto stud is without parallel in the history of trotting horses.

39 M. Mountain View is the nearest station to (6 M.) Cupertino, the vineyard of Mr. John T. Doyle, where one of the finest red wines in California is produced (Las Palmas). The railway now follows the "Santa Clara Valley, one of the fairest and most fertile valleys in California, sheltered on either hand by mountains. Large quan

tities of fruit (esp. grapes, prunes, and peaches) and wheat are grown here. At Agnews, as we approach Santa Clara, a large Insane Asylum is seen to the left.

47 M. Santa Clara (70 ft.; Arguello Ho., $11/2), a pretty little town with 2891 inhab., is the seat of Santa Clara College, a large institution founded by the Jesuits in 1851 and including a church belonging to an old mission of 1777 (150-200 students). Santa Clara is connected with (3 M.) San José (see below) by the *Alameda, a fine avenue of willows, planted by the Mission Fathers in 1799 and now traversed by an electric tramway (fare 10 c.). It is well worth while, especially in the rose season, to leave the train at Santa Clara and drive (carr. or tramway) through the Alameda to San José.

50 M. San José ('Hosay'; 90 ft.; *Hotel Vendome, with pleasant grounds and sun-parlour, $3-4; St. James, $2-21/2; Lick Ho., $2; Auzerais, E. P.), a beautiful little city of 18,060 inhab., is of importance as the chief place in the fruitful Santa Clara valley (see p. 437) and is also frequented on account of its delightful climate. The most conspicuous building is the Court House, the dome of which affords an extensive *View, including the Calaveras Mts. (with Mt. Hamilton) to the E., the Santa Cruz Mts. to the S., the Contra Costa Mts. to the W., and San Francisco Bay to the N. The City Hall and Post Office are large buildings. San José also contains several good schools and colleges.

San José is the starting-point for (26 M.) Lick Observatory, on Mt. Hammilton. Stages start every morning (except Sun.) and reach the Observatory about 1.30 p.m., halting 1 hr. and regaining San José at 6 p.m. (returnfare $3). On Sat., when visitors are allowed to look through the great telescope between 7 and 10 p.m., the stage starts at about 1 p.m. and returns about 9 or 10 p.m. (return-fare $5). Parties of four or more should hire a private carriage. The road, though uphill nearly all the way, is so well made and easily graded that a fair rate of speed is maintained, while the beautiful and ever-varying views prevent weariness. Innumerable wild-flowers line the way, while the manzanita, live oaks, and other trees are also interesting. The Observatory is in sight most of the time. We cross two intervening ridges. About 7 M. from San José we pass near the mouth of the Penitencia Cañon (so called because the monks of the San José Mission kept their retreats here), which has been reserved as a city park and contains Alum Rock and several mineral springs (Hotel). On crossing the second of the intervening ridges, we descend into Smith's Creek (2145 ft.), where a halt is generally made for dinner (75 c.) at the small hotel. The hotel lies at the base of Mt. Hamilton, 11/2 M. from the Observatory in a direct line (footpath), but 7 M. by the road, which is said to make 365 bends. Visitors sometimes spend Sat. night here and return to San José on Sun. morning. The Lick Observatory (director, Prof. Edward S. Holden), founded with a legacy of $700,000 (140,000.) left by the late Mr. James Lick (1798-1876) of San Francisco, stands on the summit of Mt. Hamilton (4210 ft.), and is in point of situation, equipment, and achievement one of the leading observatories of the world. The Great Telescope is the largest and most powerful refracting telescope in existence; its object-glass, 36 inches in diameter, was made by Alvan Clark of Cambridge (p. 85). Mr. Lick is buried in the foundation-pier of the telescope. Visitors are received courteously at the Observatory and shown all he objects of interest (10-4, Sat. 7-10 in the evening; no admission on Sun.), there is no inn or restaurant nearer than Smith Creek. The View The Observatory is very extensive, sometimes including wonderful