by the Glorieta Pass (7535 ft.) and descend to (851 M.) Lamy Junction (6460 ft.), where the line to (18 M.) Santa Fé diverges to the right.

Santa Fé (7040 ft.; Palace Hotel, $3-3/2; Alamo, $212), the capital of New Mexico, is, perhaps, the most ancient town in the United States, having been founded by the Spaniards in 1605, while there seems good reason to believe that the site was occupied long before this by a city of the Pueblo Indians (p. lxv). It is in many ways a most quaint and interesting place, with its narrow streets, adobé houses, and curious mingling of American, Mexican, and Indian types. It lies in the centre of an important mining district and carries on a considerable trade. Pop. (1890) 6185. The focus of interest is the Plaza, or public square, with a Soldiers' Monument. On one side extends the Governor's Palace, a long low structure of adobé, which has been the abode of the Spanish, Mexican, and American govvernors for nearly 300 years. It harbours the Museum of the New Mexico Historical Society, containing old Spanish paintings, historical relics, and Indian curiosities. The Cathedral of San Francisco, a large stone building with two towers, incorporates parts of the old cathedral, dating from 1622. The Church of San Miguel, originally built about the middle of the 17th cent., was restored in 1710. Other points of interest are the new and the old Fort Marcy, San Miguel College, and the Ramona Industrial School for Indian Children. Among the chief modern buildings are the State Capitol, the Post Office, and the Court House. A visit should be paid to the makers of Mexican silver filigree-work, whose shops are mainly in or near the Plaza. Gen. Lew Wallace wrote 'Ben Hur' in the Palace, while Governor of New Mexico (1879-80). About 9 M. to the S.W. of Santa Fé is the interesting pueblo of the Tesuque Indians, who visit the city daily, bringing firewood on their 'burros' (donkeys). From Santa Fé to Española and Antonito, see p. 418.

Near (882 M.) Wallace (5245 ft.), on the Rio Grande, are the pueblos of Santo Domingo (grand festival on Aug. 4th) and San Felipe. We now follow the bank of the large and rapid Rio Grande.

918 M. Albuquerque (4930 ft.; San Felipe Hotel, $2-32; Armijo, $21/2-3, R. from $1; International, $3), a city of 5518 inhab., carrying on a brisk trade in wool and hides. This is the E. terminus of the Atlantic & Pacific R. R. and the connecting-point with the Atchison, Topeka, & Santa Fé line to El Paso and Mexico, though the actual point of divergence is 13 M. farther on (see below).

FROM ALBUQUERQUE TO EL PASO, 254 M., railway in 9-10 hrs. Throughsleepers run viâ this route from Kansas City to El Paso, connecting with the Mexican Central Railway (comp. p. 464). We diverge from the line to California at (13 M.) Isleta Junction (see below) and run towards the S. 30 M. Belen (4785 ft). The mezquite (Prosopis jutiflora) now begins to appear. 75 M. Socorro; 86 M. San Antonio; 102 M. San Marcial; 141 M. Engle. 177 M. Rincon (4015 ft.) is the junction of a line to Deming (p. 463). 210 M. Las Cruces. 254 M. El Paso, see p. 464.

We now follow the Atlantic & Pacific R. R., from which the line to El Paso diverges to the left at (1390 M.) Isleta (see above), leave the Rio Grande, and run towards the W. through a semi-arid and monotonous country, which, however, makes some response to irrigation. The curious-looking Yucca Palm is now seen, often the only tree in the desert. At (985 M.) Laguna (5765 ft.) the railway runs through an Indian pueblo, the houses of which are built in terraces two and three stories high.

A nearer visit to this pueblo demands (as the trains run now) the sacrifice of half-a-day, and the sleeping accommodation is not very good. The Indians, some of whom have been educated at Carlisle (p. 232) and speak

good English, welcome visitors and offer hand-made pottery for sale. Their houses are of stone, plastered with adobé, and are usually entered, with the aid of ladders, through the roofs. The Roman Catholic church is nearly two centuries old. About 16 M. to the S. of Laguna lies Acoma, another interesting pueblo.

--

About 30 M. farther on we pass the Continental Divide (7300 ft.), but there is nothing in the surroundings to suggest that we have reached so high an elevation or are passing from the Atlantic to the Pacific slope. 1055 M. Coolidge. 1065 M. Wingate (6715 ft.), 3 M. from Fort Wingate, is the most convenient point from which to visit the famous pueblo of Zuñi, which lies about 48 M. to the S. (stages). At (1077 M.) Gallup (6480 ft.) are large coal-mines. 1085 M. Navajo Springs (6350 ft.) is the supply station for Fort Defiance and the Agency of the great Navajo (‘Navaho') Indian Reservation. The last lies at some distance to the N. of the line and is adjoined on the W. by the smaller Moqui Indian Reservation. Indians may be seen at the railway-stations, selling fine Navajo blankets, silver-work, and other home-made articles. Beyond (1093 M.) Manuelito (6230 ft.) we enter the Territory of Arizona (the 'Sunset Land'). From (1157 M.) Carrizo or (1172 M.) Holbrook (5050 ft.) a visit may be paid to the extraordinary Petrified Forests of Arizona, which lie about 20 M. to the S. E. 1204 M. Winslow (4825 ft.). Farther on we cross a bridge, 540 ft. long and 222 ft. high, spanning a rift in the ground known as the (1230 M.) Cañon Diablo.

1263 M. Flagstaff (6935 ft.; Hotels) is of importance as the starting-point of the main stage-route to (65 M.) the Grand Cañon of the Colorado (see below). To the N. rises San Francisco Mt. (12,800 ft.), a fine extinct volcano, surrounded by a district of cinder cones and lava beds, like the Phlegræan Fields of Italy.

The stage-coaches from Flagstaff to the (65 M.) Grand Cañon (fair road) run tri-weekly (except in winter) in 12 hrs. (return-fare $20). Dinner ($1) is provided at a half-way house, and the road ends, near the cañon, at Hance's Camp, with comfortable, wooden floored tents (meals $1, lodging $1; hotel to be built). - The Grand Cañon of the Colorado, one of the most stupendous natural wonders of the world, is 250 M. long and 3000-6500 ft. deep. Its walls, which are terraced and carved into a myriad of pinnacles and towers, are tinted with various brilliant colours. Visitors from Flagstaff reach it at the deepest part of the whole and obtain a marvellous view into its depths, where the large and foaming river appears as a mere thread. The bottom of the cañon may be reached by a new and fatiguing trail (steady head necessary) beginning 1/2 M. from Hance's (fee for each pers. $1; pack-animal $2; guide and pack-animals for 1-6 pers. $10). The cañon was first made specifically known to the world by Major Powell, now Chief of the U. S. Geological Survey, who in 1869 descended it by boat from the Green River (p. 422) to the Virgen River, a distance of 1000 M. He believes that the river was running here before the mountains were formed, and that the cañon was formed by the erosion of the water acting simultaneously with the slow upheaval of the rocks. The geological student has unfolded to him in the sides of the cañon all the strata from the carboniferous formations down to the Archæan granite. Travellers should remain some days at the cañon to visit various points on the rim (cliff-dwellings, etc.). Comp. Major J. W. Powell's 'Canyons of the Colorado' (1893) and Capt. Dutton's 'Tertiary History of the Grand Cañon District'. A good description of the cañon is given in 'Our Italy'.

by Chas. Dudley Warner. — Visits may also be made from Flagstaff to the Cliff Dwellings in Walnut Cañon, 8 M. to the S. E., and to the Cave Dwellings, artificially excavated in the volcanic agglomerate of the Coconino Butte, 9 M. to the N.E.

From (1297 M.) Williams (6725 ft.; Rail. Restaurant) stages run to the Grand Cañon of the Colorado (see p. 413) in 24 hrs. (returnfare $24). To the left rises Bill Williams Mt. (9265 ft.), to the right (farther on) Mt. Floyd. Near (1320 M.) Ash Fork we thread the rocky Johnson's Cañon. From (1347 M.) Prescott Junction a branch-line runs to (74 M.) Prescott (5700 ft.). 1384 M. Peach Springs (4760 ft.; Rail. Restaurant) is only 23 M. from the Grand Cañon of the Colorado (stages), but the section reached hence is not so imposing as that reached from Flagstaff (see p. 413). 1407 M. Hackberry (3520 ft.), in a mining district. 1434 M. Kingman (3300 ft.); 1458 M. Yucca (1775 ft.); 1484 M. Powell (420 ft.).

We reach and cross the wide Colorado River, by a fine cantilever bridge, 1110 ft. long, at (1497 M.) the Needles (480 ft.), so named from the curious pinnacles of purple porphyry and trachytic granite rising to the left. The train here enters California (p. 397) and runs to the W. across the great Mojave Desert ('Mohave'), an elevated sandy plateau, interspersed with salt lakes and alkali tracts, with little vegetation except yucca-palms, small piñons (nut-pines, Pinus monophylla), junipers, and sage-brush. Mountains are seen to the N., in the distance. 1520 M. Homer (2120 ft.); 1528 M. Goff's (2580 ft.); 1538 M. Fenner (2080 ft.); 1545 M. Edson (1730 ft.); 1588 M. Bagdad (785 ft.; Rail. Restaurant); 1612 M. Ludlow (1780 ft.).

1666 M. Barstow (2110 ft.) is the junction of the Southern California R. R. to San Bernardino, Colton, Pasadena, Los Angeles, and San Diego (see pp. 446-48). We change here from 'Mountain' to 'Pacific' time (1 hr. slower: comp. p. xviii). - 1676 M. Hinckley (2160 ft.); 1699 M. Kramer (2480 ft.).

At (1737 M.) Mojave (2750 ft.) we join the Southern Pacific Railway. Hence to

2118 M. San Francisco, see pp. 442, 441.

92. From Denver to Salt Lake City and Ogden.

a. Viâ Denver and Rio Grande Railroad.

771 M. RAILWAY in 29 hrs. (fare $25; sleeper $5). Through-cars run on this line to San Francisco via Leadville (see p. 420), but lovers of the picturesque should choose the narrow-gauge route over Marshall Pass, uniting with the other line at Grand Junction (comp. pp. 421, 422).

The somewhat ambitious title of 'Scenic Line of the World', adopted by this railway, is much more justified by facts than is usually the case with such assumptions, as the railway actually passes through part of the finest scenery in the United States (comp. also p. 409) and presents some features probably unequalled on any other railway.

Denver, see p. 406.

The line runs towards the S., parallel with the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé R. R. (p. 409). To the right flows

the Platte River, while in the distance are the fine snowy peaks of the Rocky Mts. (comp. p. 406). 25 M. Sedalia (5835 ft.); 33 M. Castle Rock (6220 ft.), so named from a rock that rises from the plain to the left. Pike's Peak (p. 417) may now be seen in front, to the right. 43 M. Larkspur is the station for Perry Park, with its fantastic rockformations. To the right, about 8 M. farther on, rises the Casa Blanca, a huge white rock 1000 ft. long and 200 ft. high. 52 M. Palmer Lake (7240 ft.; Rail. Restaurant), on the watershed between the Platte, flowing N. to the Missouri, and the Arkansas, flowing S. to the Mississippi. Glen Park (Hotel), 'Colorado's Chautauqua', lies 1/2 M. to the S. A new road leads to the S.W. from Palmer Lake to (35 M.) Manitou Park (Hotel, $3), another favourite resort (comp. p. 423). The line traverses cattle and sheep ranches. The snowy mountains re-appear from their temporary concealment behind the foot-hills. -62 M. Husted (6595 ft.). Several fantastic rocks are seen to the left. 67 M. Edgerton (6420 ft.) is the nearest station to Monument Park (p. 417). As we approach Colorado Springs we have a splendid view, to the right, of Pike's Peak (p. 417) and the Gateway of the Garden of the Gods (p. 416).

75 M. Colorado Springs (6090 ft.; *The Antlers, pleasantly situated, $3-5; The Thanet, especially planned for health-seekers; Alta Vista, $3-4; Alamo, $21/2-31/2; St. James, $2-3), a city of 11,140 inhab., on an elevated plateau, near the E. base of Pike's Peak, is pleasantly laid out, with wide tree-shaded streets, and resembles a well-kept and well-to-do New England country-town. It is the principal health-resort of Colorado, and has become the permanent residence of many who are unable to stand the changeable climate of England or the E. coast.

Colorado Springs was founded in 1871, though a settlement had been made somewhat earlier at Colorado City (Old Town'), a small industrial colony, 2 M. to the N.W. (comp. p. 423). No manufacturing is carried on at Colorado Springs, which has been carefully kept as a residential and educational centre, and no 'saloons' are permitted. The name is somewhat of a misnomer, as the nearest springs are those at Manitou (p. 417); but this is decidedly the pleasantest headquarters for exploring the surrounding district (Manitou and Pike's Peak included).

The View of the mountains from Colorado Springs, well seen from Cascade Avenue, near Colorado College, is very fine. Pike's Peak (p. 417) dominates the scene, while to the S. of it (named from right to left) rise Cameron's Cone (10,500 ft.), Mt. Garfield, Bald Mt. (ca. 12,500 ft.), Mte. Rosa (11,570 ft), and Cheyenne M. (9950 ft.; p 416). To the right of Pike's Peak opens the Ute Pass (p. 423), and still farther to the right lies the Garden of the Gods (p. 416). The Cheyenne Cañons (p. 416) lie between Cheyenne Mt. and Monte Rosa. In the foreground is the high-lying plateau known as the Mesa (Span, 'table-land'). To the E. and S. of the town spreads the illimitable prairie, which in certain states of the atmosphere looks startlingly like the ocean an illusion intensified by the moving shadows, the smoke of distant locomotives, and the outcrop of lines of rocks resembling breakers.

The Climate of Colorado Springs resembles that of Davos and like it is especially good for consumption or as a preventive for those predisposed to that disease. It is also well suited for persons suffering from nervous exhaustion, malarial poisoning, and other debilitating affections,

but is usually harmful to the aged and to those with organic affections of the heart or nerves. It has more wind and dust than Davos, but also more sunshine and dryness; and as the ground is bare most of the winter, there is no period of melting snow to prevent the invalid staying all the year round. Riding, driving, and the usual winter sports can be freely indulged in. There is no rain from Sept. till April. In the winter (Nov.Mar.) of 1883-9 the average temperature at Davos was 26° Fahr., of Colorado Springs 30°; the latter had 300 hrs. more sunshine than the former. The prevailing winds at Colorado Springs are S.E. and N.; the average percentage of humidity is 47. The town is sheltered by the foot-hills, except to the S. E., where it lies open to the great plains; and, being situated where they meet the mountains, it enjoys the openness and free supply of fresh air of the sea-shore, without its dampness. The soil is dry sand and gravel, with a shallow top-layer of garden soil. There are no springs beneath the town-site. Good water is brought from the mountains, and the sewerage system is excellent. The accommodation for invalids is comfortable and there are several good physicians, one of whom is English (Dr. Solly). No invalid should come or remain without medical advice.

Colorado Springs itself contains comparatively little to arrest the tourist's attention, but it is a splendid centre for innumerable pleasant drives and excursions (see below). Among the most prominent buildings are Colorado College and its preparatory school, Cutler Academy; the State Asylum for the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind; the Opera House; and the Hotels and Sanitaria. Helen Hunt Jackson ('H. H.'; 1831-85) is buried in Evergreen Cemetery. Two small Parks have been laid out. The principal clubs are the El Paso Club, the Colorado Springs Club, the University Club, and the Country Club, the last with pleasant quarters near the foot of Cheyenne Mt. (see below).

Excursions from Colorado Springs.

(1). Austin Bluffs, about 31/2 M. to the N.E. of the city (reached by carriage, tramway, or on foot), commands a magnificent *View of the Rocky Mts., the city, and the plains. The Spanish Peaks, 100 M. to the S., are clearly discernible. To the W. are the peaks mentioned at p. 415. To the N. is the Divide, or watershed between Colorado Springs and Denver.

(2). CHEYENNE MT. AND THE CHEYENNE CAÑONS. The foot of Cheyenne Mt. (9950 ft.), which rises 5 M. to the S.W. of Colorado Springs, is easily reached by electric tramway (10 c.), passing near the pleasant quarters of the Country Club (see above) and the Broadmoor Casino. The latter is a very pleasant resort, with a boating lake, a good restaurant (table-d'hôte from 6 to 8, $1.25), ball-rooms, and orchestral concerts (afternoon and evening). The Cheyenne Mt. Road leads across the flank of the mountain, commanding exquisite views, in which the brilliant red rocks, the blue sky, the green trees, and the dazzling white snow offer wonderful combinations of colour. The road is steep, narrow, and badly kept, so that steady horses, driver, and head are desirable. It goes on to (22 M.) Seven Lakes (10,350 ft.; Inn, sometimes closed), but most visitors turn back at the (21/2 M.) Horseshoe Curve. The summit of the mountain may be reached by a path (1 M.) diverging to the left near the saw-mill. The Cheyenne Cañons are on the N. side of the mountain, and the terminus of the electric tramway is near their entrance. The S. Cañon (adm. 25 c.) may be followed on foot to (1 M.) the *Falls, which descend 500 ft. in seven leaps. From the top of the flights of steps we may ascend to the left to the brink of the cañon (*View) and go on thence to the above-mentioned road, where our carriage may be ordered to meet us. The N. Cañon also contains fine falls, pools, and cliffs. It may be followed for 3-4 M.

(3). GARDEN OF THE GODS (5M.). The road leads to the W. across the Mesa (p. 415), passing (4 M.) the entrance to Glen Eyrie, a private estate (visitors admitted) containing some fantastic rocky scenery (Cathedral