p. 324), while the Texas line runs nearly due S. About 6 M. farther on the famous Iron Mt. (1075 ft.) is seen to the left.

This is an irregular hill, consisting mainly of porphyry, intersected by numerous mineral veins and capped with a deposit of specular iron ore, 6-30 ft. thick and yielding nearly 70 per cent of pure iron. The amount of mineral already taken from this hill exceeds five million tons.

Pilot Knob (1015 ft.), seen on the same side, 6 M. farther on, also contains a wonderful bed of iron ore, 12-30 ft. thick. 88 M. Ironton (910 ft.) uses the fine magnetic ore of Shepherd Mt., which is free from phosphorus and sulphur. 166 M. Poplar Bluff is the junction of a line to (71 M.) Bird's Point, opposite Cairo (p. 320). Beyond (181 M.) Neelyville (305 ft.) we enter Arkansas ('Bear State'; pron. 'Arkansaw'). At (198 M.) Knobel (270 ft.) the through-carriages to Memphis (p. 320) diverge to the left. 226 M. Hoxie. At (262 M.) Newport (230 ft.) we cross the White River (p. 325). 288 M. Bald Knob, the junction of a line to (91 M.) Memphis (p. 320).

345 M. Little Rock (260 ft.; Capitol, $21/2-5; Richelieu, $3-4; Deming, $2), the capital and largest city of Arkansas, with (1890) 25,874 inhab., is well situated on the wide Arkansas River and carries on a large trade in cotton and other goods both by railway and steamer. It is regularly laid out, and many of its streets are pleasantly shaded by magnolias. The principal buildings include the State House, the U. S. Court House, the County Court House, the State Insane Asylum, the Deaf-Mute Institute, the School for the Blind, the Post Office, the Board of Trade Building, Little Rock University, and the Medical Department of Arkansas Industrial University. Railways radiate hence in all directions.

388 M. Malvern (280 ft.; Hot Springs, Commercial, $2) is the junction of a branch-line to (25 M.) the famous Arkansas Hot Springs.

The town of Hot Springs, Arkansas (425 ft.; *Eastman, about $3-5; Park; Arlington; Plateau, $3/2; Avenue; New Sumpter Ho., $2-3/2; New Waverley, $3; Argyle, Windsor, Josephine, $2-3; Southern Ho., $2-21/2; and many others), with (1890) 8086' inhab., is situated in a narrow gorge between Hot Springs Mt. and West Mt., in the heart of the Ozark Mts., and has become one of the most frequented health and pleasure resorts in America. The wide main street is flanked on one side with hotels and shops and on the other with a row of handsome bath-houses. The Springs, of which there are upwards of 70, rise on the W. slope of Hot Springs Mt., above the town, vary in temperature from 76° to 158° Fahr., and discharge daily about 500,000 gallons of clear, tasteless, and odourless water. They are used both internally and externally, and are beneficial in rheumatism, syphilis, nervous ailments, and affections of the skin and blood. They contain a little silica and carbonate of lime; but the efficacy of the water is ascribed mainly to its heat and purity. The price for a single bath is 15-40 c., for 21 baths $31/2-8. The ground on which the springs rise is the property of the U. S. Government, and a large Army and Navy Hospital has been erected here for the use of officers, soldiers, and sailors. Among the numerous pleasant points for walks, rides, and drives in the vicinity of the Hot Springs are the Valley of the Ouichita, Gulpha Gorge, Hell's Half Acre, Happy Hollow, Ball Bayou, Crystal Mt., and Whittington's Peak. There are several other mineral springs within easy reach, the chief of which are Gillen's White Sulphur Springs, Potash Sulphur Springs, and Mountain Valley Springs, each with a hotel. Good shooting and fishing are also obtainable.

409 M. Daleville; 426 M. Gurdon; 457 M. Hope (360 ft.).

490 M. Texarkana (300 ft.; Benefield, Collins, Cosmopolitan, $2), a town with 6380 inħab., on the border of Texas and Arkansas, is an important railway-junction, from which connection can easily be made for all important points in Texas, viâ the Texas and Pacific and other railways (comp. p. 468).

91. From Kansas City to San Francisco.

a. Via Union Pacific Railway System.

2094 M. UNION PACIFIC SYSTEM in 82-84 hrs. (fare $60; sleeper $13). Through-carriages. Dining-cars on the through-trains.

Kansas City, see p. 400. The train at first follows the Kansas River towards the W. (views to the left). - 39 M. Lawrence (760 ft.; Eldridge Ho., $2-21/2), a pleasant little commercial city of 9997 inhab., situated on both banks of the Kansas River, is the seat of the State University (3-500 students) and also contains the Haskell Institute, a government training-school for Indians (400 boys and 150 girls). We are here joined by the line from (34 M.) Leavenworth (see below).

Leavenworth (750 ft.; Delmonico, National, $2-21/2), on the W. bank of the Missouri, is a busy industrial and commercial city with 19,768 inhabitants. A colossal bronze statue of Gen. U. S. Grant was erected here in 1889. To the N. is Fort Leavenworth, an important military post.

We now traverse the great prairies of Kansas, an excellent farming and grazing country. 67 M. Topeka (820 ft.; Thorp, Copeland, $3-4; National, $2; Rail. Restaurant), the capital of Kansas, is a flourishing city of 31,007 inhab., also situated on both sides of the Kansas River. The chief buildings include the State Capitol, the Post Office and Custom House, the State Insane Asylum, the Reform School, the Free Library (12,000 vols.), Grace Church Cathedral, Washburn College, and Bethany College. Topeka has large mills (value of products in 1890, $7,000,000) and a brisk trade. 104 M. Wamego (930 ft.). We cross the Blue River. - 119 M. Manhattan (960 ft.), with the State Agricultural College. 135 M. Fort Riley, an army post with an important military school. The Ogden Monument marks the geographical centre of the United States (excl. Alaska). — 139 M. Junction City (1020 ft.), for a line to Clay Centre and Belleville, etc. The Smoky Hill River now flows to the left. 163 M. Abilene (1095 ft.; Rail. Restaurant). Large crops of wheat and other grains are raised here. - 186 M. Salina (p. 403). We now cross the river. 223 M. Ellsworth (1470 ft.); 289 M. Hays City, with Fort Hays. At (303 M.) Ellis (2055 ft.; Rail. Restaurant) we change to 'Mountain' time (p. xviii). 377 M. Oakley (2980 ft.); 420 M. Wallace (3285 ft.; Rail. Restaurant). We now begin to pass from an agricultural to a grazing district, where the useful 'bunch-grass' of the W. affords food, both summer and winter, to millions of cattle. Beyond (452 M.) Arapahoe we enter Colorado (the 'Silver State'). 462 M. Cheyenne Wells (4260 ft.; Rail. Restaurant). At (473 M.) First View we obtain the first view of the Rocky Mts., still about 170 M. distant. Pike's Peak (p. 417) is

conspicuous, nearly due W. Beyond (487 M.) Kit Carson (4275 ft.), named after a well-known trapper, we follow the Big Sandy Creek (left) towards the N.W. 535 M. Hugo (5025 ft.), on the middle fork of the Republican River. At (550 M.) Limon we cross the Rock Island Railway. 563 M. Cedar Point (5695 ft.) is the highest point on this part of the line. 596 M. Byers (5190 ft.); 618 M. Watkins (5515 ft.).

639 M. Denver (5270 ft.; Metropole, R. from $11/2; Palace, $3-5; Windsor, Albany, $3-4; St. James, $21/2-31/2; Broadway, $21/2-4; Markham, R. $11/2; American Ho., $3; Glenarm, $2-3), the capital and largest city of Colorado, lies on the S. bank of the South Platte River, about 15 M. from the E. base of the Rocky Mts., of which it commands a superb view. Denver, the 'Queen City of the Plains', was founded in 1858 and is a striking example of the marvellous growth of western cities, reaching a total of 35,630 inhab. in 1880 and no fewer than 126,713 in 1890 (150,000, incl. suburbs). Many of its buildings are large, handsome, and substantial, and the private residences and gardens are often very tasteful. Some of the business streets were paved with asphalt in 1892, but many are still very rough. It owes its prosperity to its position in the heart of a rich mining district and as the centre of numerous important railways (comp. pp. 414, 403, etc.); while in 1890 its manufactures, including cotton and woollen goods, flour, machinery, and carriages, were valued at $30,500,000.

The Union Depot lies at the foot of Seventeenth Street, one of the chief business-thoroughfares, and tramways start here for all parts of the city. The traveller is recommended to ascend 17th St. and 17th Ave. by cable car to the City Park (320 acres) and then walk across to Colfax or 15th Ave. and return by it. On the way out we pass the new Equitable Building (cor. of Stout St.), the top of which affords a superb *View.

The Rocky Mts. are seen to the W. in an unbroken line of about 170 M., extending from beyond Long's Peak (p. 408) on the N. to Pike's Peak (p. 417) on the S. Among the loftiest of the intervening summits are Gray's Peak (p. 408) and Mts. Torrey (14,335 ft.) and Evans (14,330 ft). The bird's-eye view of the city at our feet includes the new State Capitol (see below) and the fine residences of Capitol Hill to the E.

At the corner of 17th St. and Glenarm St. is the *Denver Club, and at the corner of Sherman Ave. is the Central Presbyterian Church. In returning through Colfax (or 15th) Ave. we pass the new STATE CAPITOL, erected at a cost of $1,500,000. The COUNTY COURT HOUSE occupies the block bounded by Court Place and 15th, 16th, and Tremont Sts. The CUSTOM HOUSE AND POST OFFICE, 16th St., is another imposing building. A visit may also be paid to the U. S. Branch Mint, 16th St., where the processes of melting and assaying bullion may be witnessed (no coining).

The other important buildings of the city include the *Denver High School (Stout St., betw. 19th and 20th Sts.), the City Hall

(cor. 14th and Larimer Sts.), the Mining Exchange (cor. 15th and Arapahoe Sts.), the Chamber of Commerce (cor. 14th and Lawrence Sts., with the Mercantile Library), the Presbyterian College (Montclair), the Tabor Opera House Block (16th and Larimer Sts.), the Broadway Theatre (cor. 18th St. and Broadway), the Bijou (Curtis St.), Trinity Church (Broadway and 18th St.), St. Mary's Cathedral (R. C.; Stout St., between 15th and 16th Sts.), St. John's Cathedral (Epis.; at the head of Broadway), the Westminster University of Colorado (in progress), and the Jesuit College of the Sacred Heart (College Ave., cor. of Homer Ave.). - The Art Museum, in Montclair (see below), contains a collection of paintings and other objects of art.

A visit should also be paid to one of the great SMELTING WORKS of Denver, among which may be mentioned the Colorado & Boston (at Argo, see below), the Omaha & Grant (Larimer St.), and the Globe, all to the N. of the city. The value of the ores reduced here in 1891 amounted to $24,500,000.

-

A good idea of Denver's suburban growth is obtained by taking the electric tramway at the end of the 17th Ave. cable-line and going to the E. over Capitol Hill (fine residences) and through Montclair to Aurora. Visits may also be paid by electric or cable cars to Elitch's Zoological Garden (adm. 25 c.), Berkeley Lake and Park, and Sloan Lake.

Denver is a good centre for numerous fine excursions, a few of which are enumerated below. Comp. also p. 415 (Colorado Springs), p. 414 (Denver & Rio Grande R. R.), and p.

103.

FROM DENVER TO GOLDEN, CENTRAL CITY, AND GRAYMONT, 60 M., Union Pacific Railway (narrow-gauge) in 4 hrs. Observation-cars are attached to the trains. Beyond (2 M.) Argo (5215 ft.) and (3 M.) Argo Junction we have a good retrospect of Denver, with Pike's Peak (p. 417) in the distance. To the E. is the Platte River, to the W. rise the Rocky Mts. Farther on we descend into the Clear Creek Valley. At (7 M.) Arvada we turn to the W. 15 M. Golden (5655 ft.; Garbarew Ho., $3), at the base of the Table Mts., is a busy little industrial and mining city, with 2383 inhabitants. We now ascend the picturesque Clear Creek Cañon, where the cliffs are sometimes 1000 ft. high. 24 M. Beaver Brook. — 29 M. Forks Creek (6880 ft.), at the confluence of the N. and S. branches of Clear Creek, is the junction of the line to Central City (see below). The Graymont train follows the South Clear. 37 M. Idaho Springs (7540 ft.; Colorado Hotel, $21/2-3), in the midst of a gold and silver mining district, is frequented for its hot and cold mineral springs (large baths). An excursion may be made to (13 M.) Chicago Lakes (11,000 ft.). We continue to ascend rapidly, amid lofty mountains.

50 M. Georgetown (8475 ft.; Barton Ho., $2), a silver-mining town with 1927 inhab., is also frequented as a summer- resort on account of its pure air and beautiful environment. Excursions may be made to (3 M.) Green Lake (10,400 ft.; Hotel), Clear Lake (32 M.), Elk Lake (6 M.), etc. Four-horse coaches run thrice weekly from Georgetown, through the *Berthoud Pass, to (56 M.) Grand Lake (Hotel), and (47 M) Hot Sulphur Springs (Kinney Ho., $2), in Middle Park, the second of the great Natural Parks of Colorado mentioned at p. 392. Middle Park, the only one on the W. side of the 'Continental Divide', has a mean elevation of about 7500 ft. and an area of 3000 sq. M. It is a fine resort for sportsmen in search of big game. The baths of Hot Sulphur Springs are efficacious in rheumatism, neuralgia, and cutaneous affections.

Above Georgetown the train threads the Devil's Gate and climbs up the mountains by means of the famous Loop, where it bends back on itself and crosses the track just traversed by a lofty bridge. A little

higher up it makes two other sweeping curves, which nearly bring it back upon itself. 54 M. Silver Plume (9175 ft.). 58 M. Graymont (9770 ft.; Gray's Peak Hotel), the terminus of the line, lies at the foot of *Gray's Peak (14,440 ft.), one of the loftiest of the Rocky Mts., which is easily ascended hence on horseback in 3-4 hrs. (return-tickets issued by the Railway Co. at Denver, incl. horse and guide to the top). The *View is superb, including in clear weather Long's Peak (see below) and Pike's Peak (p. 417). Adjacent is Torrey's Peak (14,335 ft.), which may also be ascended. [The line from Forks Creek to Central City (see p. 407) ascends the N. Clear Creek, passing numerous quartz mines. Beyond (37 M. from Denver) Black Hawk (8030 ft.) it overcomes the heavy gradient by long 'switchback' curves. — 40 M. Central City (8500 ft.; Teller, $4), a busy little mining city, with 2480 inhabitants. An ascent may be made of James Peak (13,280 ft.; *View), and a pleasant walk or ride may be taken to (6 M.) Idaho Springs (see p. 407) viâ Bellevue Hill (fine view of the Front Range).]

FROM DENVER TO BOULDER AND FORT COLLINS, 71 M., Union Pacific Railway (narrow-gauge) in 3 hrs. Beyond (3 M.) Argo Junction (see p. 407) the train runs to the N. to (29 M.) Boulder (5335 ft.; Brainard, $21/2-3; Bowen, $2-3), a small mining city and the site of the University of Colorado (150 students), at the mouth of Boulder Cañon, which may be visited by carriage (to the Falls, 9 M., and back, $5). A branch-line runs from Boulder to (13 M.) Sunset (7695 ft.). - Beyond Boulder our line ascends to (40 M.) Longmont (4935 ft.) and (57 M.) Loveland (4970 ft.; Loveland Ho., $2-21/2). From the latter a stage-coach runs to (28 M.) Estes Park (6810 ft.; Estes Park Hotel, $3; boarders taken at James's and other ranches), a smaller edition of the Great Natural Parks. [Estes Park is, perhaps, best reached from Denver by the Burlington & Missouri River R. R. to Longmont (see above) and (48 M.) Lyons, whence stages run to (20 M.) the Hotel.] Long's Peak (14,270 ft.) rises on the S. side of the park and may be ascended from the hotel in 4-6 hrs. (guide necessary; fatiguing); the *View includes a large section of the Rocky Mts. For the ascents of other mountains round Estes Park, see F. H. Chapin's 'Montaineering in Colorado.` A branch-line runs from Loveland to (8 M.) Arkins (5235 ft.). - Beyond Loveland the train runs on to (71 M.) Fort Collins (4970 ft.; views), which is connected by railway with Greeley (p. 410) and with Colorado Junction.

FROM DENVER TO LEADVILLE, 151 M., Union Pacific Railway (narrowgauge) in 91/4 hrs. The line runs to the S., crossing the Platte River. 7M. Sheridan (5285 ft.), with Fort Logan. About 12 M. farther on we reach the Platte Cañon (5490 ft.) and begin to ascend rapidly. 29 M. South Platte (6035 ft.); 31 M. Dome Rock (6200 ft.); 42 M. Pine Grove (6740 ft.). The gorge contracts. 51 M. Estabrook (7550 ft.), a summer-resort; 69 M. Webster (8980 ft.). The line curves nearly back upon itself as we approach the summit at (76 M.) Kenosha (9970 ft.). As we begin to descend we have a fine *View of South Park (p. 409). At (88 M.) Como (9775 ft.; Rail, Restaurant) the Leadville line diverges to the right from that to Gunnison (see p. 409). We now again ascend rapidly, passing several old placer-workings. 93 M. Halfway (10,530 ft.). At (98 M.) Boreas (11,470 ft.), at the summit of the Breckenridge Pass, we reach the culminating point of the line, on the Continental watershed of the Rocky Mts. The descent is abrupt and tortuous. 110 M. Breckenridge (9525 ft.; Denver Hotel, $3), on the Blue River. To the W. and S. W. rise Mts. Fletcher, Quandary, Buckskin, and other peaks; to the N., Mts. Gray, Torrey, and Powell. Gold-mining is actively carried on all along this part of the route. - Beyond Breckenridge the train descends to the N., along the Blue River. 116 M. Dickey (8980 ft.) is the junction of a branch-line to (7 M.) Keystone. Farther on we bend to the left and pass through the Ten Mile Cañon. 134 M. Robinson (10,820 ft.), in a rich mining district. To the left towers Mt. Fletcher (14,265 ft.). To the N.W. rises the famous Mt. of the Holy Cross (14,175 ft.), so called from the cruciform appearance presented by two snow-filled ravines which cross each other at right angles (best seen from a point on the road to the W. of Robinson). At (137 M.) Climax (11,290 ft.) we reach