c. By Steamer. There are various combinations for a sea-voyage on the way from New York to Florida. Steamers of the Clyde Steamship Co. run thrice weekly from New York (Pier 29, E. River) to Charleston and Jacksonville (3 days; fare $25). A steamer of the Mallory Co. plies every Friday at 3 p.m. from New York (Pier 21, E. River) to Brunswick (p. 342; 60 hrs.) and Fernandina (see below; 31/2 days; fare $21). Fernandina is 11/2 hr. from Jacksonville by railway (see below; through-fare $22.50). Steamers of the Ocean Steamship Co. leave New York (Pier 35, N. River) four times weekly for Savannah (2-21/2 days; fare $20, to Jacksonville $25), and Boston (Lewis' Wharf) once weekly for the same port (3 days; $22) From Savannah to Jacksonville by railway, see p. 354. A steamer of the Old Dominion Line leaves New York (Pier 26, N. River) daily for Norfolk (p. 331; 22-25 hrs. ; $ 8), whence we may proceed to the S. by the Seaboard Line viâ Weldon (comp. p. 346). Jacksonville. Hotels. Windsor, St. James, $4; Everett Ho., Carleton, Oxford, $3; Duval, from $21/2; Glenada, $ 212-312; Grand View, Tremont, $2-3. Boarding Houses, $8-15 per week. Furnished Rooms $ 4-10 per week. Tramways run through the chief streets and to the suburbs. Cab from the stations or wharves to the hotel, 25 c. each pers., each trunk 25 c. Steamers ply up the St. John's River (p. 359) and to Mayport, Charleston, Savannah, New York, Boston, etc. Small Boats, at the foot of Market St., 25 c. per hr. Post Office, Bay St., corner of Market St. Jacksonville, the commercial metropolis of Florida (17,201 inhab.), situated on the left bank of the St. John's River, 22 M. from its mouth, was founded in 1822 and named after Gen. Andrew Jackson. It is much frequented by visitors from the N. on account of its dry and equable winter-climate (mean winter temp. 55° Fahr.) but offers comparatively little of interest to the passing tourist, who will probably regard it merely as a stage on the way to St. Augustine and the more picturesque parts of Florida. It carries on a large trade in fruit, timber, and grain, and has some manufactures. The chief business-streets are Bay Street and Forsyth Street, parallel with the river, and Laura Street and Ocean Street, at right angles to it. The residence streets are generally shaded with bitter-orange and other trees. The chief streets are paved with wooden blocks. The Sub-Tropical Exhibition, adjoining the City Water Works, 3/4 M. from the river (tramway along Hogan St.), is open every second winter and affords a good idea of the products of Florida (adm. 25 c.). Pleasant drives may be enjoyed on the shell-roads to the N. and S. (across the river). Most of the other roads are too sandy for heavy wheeled traffic. Good views of the city and river are enjoyed from the bluffs to the N.E. and N.W. FROM JACKSONVILLE TO FERNANDINA, 33 M., railway in 11/2 hr. - Fernan dina (Strathmore, $21/2-4), a seaport with 2803 inhab., situated on the W. side of Amelia Island, at the mouth of the Amelia River, was settled by the Spaniards in 1632. It has the finest harbour S. of Chesapeake Bay, and carries on a trade in naval stores and timber, while steamers ply to New York (see above), Charleston, the Georgia ports, England, etc. Its popu lation is much increased in winter by visitors from the N. A good shellroad leads to (2 M.) Amelia Beach, a fine expanse for bathing and driving. Excursions are often made to Cumberland Island. From Fernandina to Baldwin and Cedar Keys, see R. 79b. - FROM JACKSONVILLE TO PABLO BEACH, 17 M., Jacksonville & Atlantic Railroad (reached by ferry from foot of Newnan St.) in 1 hr. Pablo Beach (Ocean Ho.; Pablo), one of the most popular summer and sea-bathing resorts in Florida, has a splendid beach and the usual seaside attractions. It is possible to drive along the beach to (6 M.) Burnside or Mayport (see below) and return thence by railway or steamer. Mayport and Burnside Beach, at the mouth of the St. John, may be reached by steamer or by ferry from Pine St. and railway on the S. bank. From Mayport we may visit Fort George Island by small boat. From Jacksonville to St. Augustine, see below; up the St. John's River, see p. 359; to Pensacola and New Orleans, see R. 81; to Tampa, see R. 79. 76. From Jacksonville to St. Augustine. 37 M. JACKSONVILLE, ST. AUGUSTINE, & INDIAN RIVER RAILWAY in 1114 hr. (fare $1.50). Station in Jacksonville at Bridge St. Viaduct. Jacksonville, see p. 355. On leaving the station the train crosses the St. John's River by a steel bridge, 1320 ft. long, and traverses the suburb of South Jacksonville. Farther on we pass a few orangegroves, but most of the journey passes through pine-woods. Between (14 M.) Sweetwater and (16 M.) Bayard we cross the Arlington. 37 M. St. Augustine. Hotels. Ponce de Leon (Pl. a; B, 4), from $5; Alcazar (Pl. b; B, 4), from $4; *Cordova (Pl. c; C, 4), from $4, these under the same management; *San Marco (Pl. d; B, 3), outside the city-gate. $4; Florida Ho. (Pl. e; B, 3), Magnolia, $3-4; Valencia, Barcelona, $212. - Boarding Houses, $8-15 per week. Hotel Omnibuses and Carriages at the station, 3/4 M. from the town (25 c.; trunk 25 c.). Carriages $11/2-3 per hr., $4-5 per day; Saddle Horses $1 and $3. Boat, with attendant, from 25 c. per hr., $2-5 per day (Central Wharf). Post Office, Plaza de la Constitucion. St. Augustine (accent on first syllable), one of the most picturesque and interesting little cities in America, lies on the Atlantic coast near the S. end of a narrow peninsula formed by the Matanzas and St. Sebastian Rivers, and opposite Anastasia Island. The surrounding country is flat, sandy, and overgrown with palmetto scrub. The older streets are all very narrow; the old Spanish houses are built of 'coquina' (a kind of shell limestone), and some of them have overhanging balconies. The gardens and squares are full of palmettoes, Spanish daggers, orange and citron trees, date palms, magnolias, and bananas. The permanent population of St. Augustine is (1890) 4742, but this is increased to at least 10,000 during winter. The climate is temperate and equable, the mean temperature for the year being about 70°, for winter 58°. In 1512 the Spaniard Ponce de Leon landed near the Indian town of Seloy (on or near the site of St. Augustine), in search of the 'Fountain of Youth', but, not finding it, re-embarked. Half-a-century later (1564) a colony of French Huguenots, under René de Laudonnière, landed near the same spot, but soon migrated to the St. John's River. The settlement of a Protestant colony within his trans-Oceanic dominions aroused the indignation of Philip II. of Spain, who forthwith sent out an expedition under Don Pedro Menendez de Avilo to exterminate the invaders. Menendez landed at Seloy on Sept. 8th, 1565, found the Indians friendly, and erected the fort of San Augustin. St. Augustine is thus one of the oldest permanent settlements of Europeans within the territories of the United States (comp. p. 412). The Spaniards lost no time in carrying out the object of their coming by destroying the French Fort Carolina and massacring its inhabitants. During the next century St. Augustine led a very chequered existence. It was plundered by Sir Francis Drake in 1586 and by Capt. John Davis in 1665, and it was attacked on other occasions by the Indians, French, Carolinians, and Georgians (p. 351). In 1763 St. Augustine, with the rest of Florida, was yielded to Great Britain, but it was restored to Spain ten years later. Under the British it contained about 290 householders and 900 negroes. In 1821 Florida was ceded to the United States, and from this time may be dated St. Augustine's fame as a winter-resort, though it was not till after the termination of the troubles with the Seminole Indians (1842) that any large number of Northern visitors found their way hither. There are now few persons of Spanish descent in St. Augustine, all having left the city on the British or American occupation; but some descendants of a colony of Minorcans, who arrived here in 1769, are still to be seen. Many of the older and more picturesque features of the place are disappearing, though a laudable effort has been made to erect new buildings in a style in harmony with the local atmosphere and traditions. The Tropical Lawn Tennis Championship is decided at St. Augustine. In the centre of the city is the "PLAZA DE LA CONSTITUCION (Pl. B, 4), extending on the E. to the sea-wall and the Matanzas, beyond which is seen the island of Anastasia (p. 356). The Monument in the centre of the square was erected in honour of the Spanish Liberal constitution of 1812, from which it takes its name. On the E. side is the Old Market, erroneously known as the Slave Market. On the N. side is a Confederate War Monument. The Roman Catholic Cathedral, also on the N. side, was rebuilt on an enlarged scale after the fire of 1887. To the W. is the Post Office, to the S. the Episcopal Church. Along the S. side of the Plaza runs the ALAMEDA (King St.), which brings us at once to a group of handsome modern buildings in a Spanish or Moorish style (Pl. B, 4). To the right is the huge Ponce de Leon Hotel (properly pron. 'Ponthe de Leōn', but usually called 'Pons dee Leeon'), to the left the Córdova Hotel, the Alcazár, and the Villa Zorayda, all adjoined by beautiful exotic gardens. The Ponce de Leon (Pl. a), designed by Carrère & Hastings in the style of the Spanish Renaissance, is 380 ft. wide (façade) and 520 ft. long and encloses a large open court. The towers are 165 ft, high (*View). It is built of concrete, with red-tiled roofs and brick and terracotta details. The scheme of colour is very effective. The interior of the Central Dome or Rotunda, with its four galleries, is elaborately adorned with marble, carved oak, and allegorical paintings. The Dining Room, 150 ft. long and 90 ft. wide, is also embellished with scenes from the history of Florida, Spanish proverbs, etc. The whole building has been carried out with a rare attention to detail and every part of it will repay attention. The Alcazar (Pl. b), opposite the Ponce de Leon, is by the same architects and also in the Spanish style. It includes a very large and magnificent Swimming Bath, supplied from a sulphurous artesian well. The Hotel Cordova (Pl. c; formerly the Casa Monica), in a Hispano - Moorish style, was designed and built by Mr. Franklin W. Smith (see below and p. 181), who in this building and the Villa Zorayda (see below) first demonstrated the adaptability of the monolithic concrete architecture to modern buildings. It includes a fine sun-parlour, 108 ft. long. -The Villa Zorayda, the earliest of this group of buildings, was erected by Mr. Smith (see above) in 1883. It is in a Moorish style, with many suggestions from the Alhambra. *ST. GEORGE STREET (Pl. B, 3, 4), leading to the N. from the N.W. corner of the Plaza, is one of the quaintest and most picturesque streets in the city. It passes the new Municipal Buildings and ends at the remains of the old *City Gate (Pl. B, 3), consisting of two pillars, 20 ft. high, adjoined by fragments of coquina wall. On the inner side of the buttresses are two stone sentry boxes. The gate dates from the Spanish period, but its exact age is unknown. Outside the gate (to the left) are the old Huguenot Graveyard and the large San Marco Hotel (p. 356). We, however, turn to the right, to visit *Fort Marion (Pl. B, 3), the most interesting relic of the ancient city, which lies on the Matanzas, at the N. end of the seawall (open free, 10-4; fee to the sergeant who acts as cicerone). Menendez (p. 356) erected a wooden fort (San Juan de Piños) on or near this spot. The present fort, which is made of coquina, was building for nearly 100 years and finished in 1756. The Spaniards named it San Marco, and it received its present name in 1821. The fort is laid out on the Vauban system, with bastions at the four chief angles, each protected by a watch-tower, and is surrounded by a moat and glacis. We enter by a drawbridge, over each end of which are the Spanish coat-of-arms and a Spanish inscription. Among the special features pointed out in the interior are the Chapel, the Dungeon, and the casemate from which the Seminole chief Coacoochee, who was confined here with Osceola, made his escape during the Seminole War (1835-42). The SEA WALL (Pl. B, 3, 4), beginning at the water-battery of the fort and extending 3/4 M. to the S.W., affords a fine promenade (views). It is made of coquina, capped with granite, and dates from 1835-42. - At the S. end of the sea-wall are the St. Francis Barracks (Pl. B, 4), named from occupying the site of the old Convent of St. Francis, some of the coquina walls of which are incorporated in the present structure. Guard-mount and dress-parade, with military music, attract many visitors. - A little farther S. is the Military Cemetery (Pl. B, 5), containing memorials of 'Dade's Command' (p. 364) and other soldiers who fell in the Seminole War (order of adm. necessary from the adjutant of the post). A little to the S. is the new Alicia Hospital (Pl. B, 5). Among the other buildings of interest in St. Augustine are Grace Church (Meth. Epis.; Pl. B, 3), by Carrère & Hastings, at the corner of Cordova St. and Carrère St., and the elaborate *Memorial Presbyterian Church (Pl. A, 3), not far from the railway-station, designed by the same architects and erected by Mr. H. M. Flagler in memory of his daughter. The museum of the St. Augustine Institute of Natural Science, 27 Alcazar Court, is open to visitors. The harbour of St. Augustine is admirably adapted for Rowing and Sailing, and excursions may be made to Matanzas (to the S.), up the North River, etc. In the ocean, 32 M. from Matanzas, is a hot Sulphur Spring. Among the points of interest on the island of Anastasia (ferry from Central Wharf; railway across the island) are the South Beach, the Lighthouse, and the old Coquina Quarries. North Beach is a favourite driving and riding resort. Fair sea-fishing (sea-bass, etc.) may be obtained here and at Matanzas. 77. The St. John's River. STEAMERS of the Clyde's St. John's River Line leave Jacksonville daily (except Sat.) at 3.30 p.m. for Palatka, Blue Springs, Sanford (16 hrs. ; $ 2), and Enterprise (151/2 hrs.; $2). Other steamers run to Green Cove Springs, Palatka, etc. Travellers may save a little time by taking the railway from Jacksonville to Palatka (56 M., in 13/4-2 hrs.). Those who start from St. Augustine may also join the steamer at Palatka (railway from St. Augustine, 28 M., in 11/4-1/2 hr.). There is no great variety in the scenery of this trip, but visitors to Florida should make part of it at least for the sake of the picture it affords of luxuriant semi-tropical vegetation. The St. John's River is about 400 M. long, and its lower course resembles a series of lakes 1/2-6 M. wide. The terms right (r.) and left (1.) in the following route are used with reference to travellers ascending the river. Jacksonville, see p. 355. The following are some of the chief points passed. Beecher Stowe. 10 M. (r.) Black Point. 14 M. (r.) Orange Park (rail. station). — 15 M. (1.) Mandarin, formerly the winter-home of Mrs. Harriet 24 M. (r.) Magnolia Point, one of the highest bluffs on the river. 241/2 M. (r.) Mouth of Black Creek, navigable for 8 M. 25 M. (1.) Remington Park. 28 M. (r.) Magnolia Springs (Hotel, $3-5; rail. stat.), a favourite resort of consumptives, amid pines and orange-groves. 30 M. (r.) Green Cove Springs (Clarendon, $3-4; St. Clair, St. Elmo, $2-3), a favourite resort, with a copious sulphur-spring (78°), used both for bathing and drinking. A beautiful path leads along the river to (2 M.) Magnolia. 38 M. (1.) Hogarth's Landing. 44 M. (1.) Picolata, an old Spanish settlement. 49 M. (1.) Tocoi, the junction of a (disused) railway to (18 M.) St. Augustine (p. 356). 63 M. (1.) Orange Mills, with fine orange-groves. 75 M. Palatka (Putnam Ho., $4-6; Graham's, $3; St. George's; tramway between railway-stations 5 c.), the largest town on the St. John's above Jacksonville (3030 inhab.), is pleasantly situated and attracts many winter-visitors. It is a railway-centre of some importance, and is the starting-point of the small steamers which ascend the Ocklawaha (see p. 360). FROM PALATKA TO ORMOND, TITUSVILLE, AND ROCKLEDGE, 102 M.,_railway in 3 hrs.. This line forms the most direct connection between Jacksonville or St. Augustine and the Indian River (R. 80). We cross the St. John's River to (2 M.) E. Palatka and (5 M.) San Mateo. -25 M. Windermere. 46 M. Ormond (Ormond, $4-5; Coquina, $3), a winter resort on the Halifax River, with fine beaches, may be made the starting-point of the Indian River voyage (comp. p. 364). Excellent fishing and deer-shooting. 52 M. Daytona (Palmetto, $3-31/2; Ocean View, Fountain City, $2-3) is another favourite resort on the Halifax River, with avenues of fine trees. 67 M. New Smyrna (Atlantic Ho., Ocean Ho., $3), on the Hillsborough River (comp. p. 364), frequented by sportsmen, was settled in 1767 by a colony of Minorcans under an Englishman named Trumbull (see p. 357). Railway to Blue Springs, see p. 30. 82 M. Titusville (Grand View, Indian River, $3), near the head of Indian River (R. 80), is the most usual starting point for the trip described at p. 364. 88 M. Hardeeville (p. 364); 94 M. City Point (p. 364); 100 M. Cocoa (p. 364). 102 M. Rockledge, the terminus of the railway, see p. 365. - From Palatka to Sanford, see p. 362; to St. Augustine, see above; to |