Page images
PDF
EPUB

stages ($2) run to (12 M.) Cloudland Hotel, on the summit (6315 ft.), the highest human habitation to the E. of the Rocky Mts. The *View hence is very extensive, some authorities considering it the finest in Western North Carolina (comp. p. 345). The rhododendrons and azaleas are at their best between June 20th and July 10th. Excursions may be made hence over the mountain-roads to Hot Springs and (80 M.) Asheville (p. 344).

On a hill to the left as we leave (487 M.) Greenville is the gravemonument of Andrew Jackson (1767-1845), a resident of the district. - 519 M. Morristown (1280 ft.).

A short branch-line runs hence to Bean's Station, 11/2 M. from which lie Tate Springs (Hotel, $21/2-31/2), among the Clinch Mts. (4200 ft.). Another line runs from Morristown along the French Broad River to (50 M.) Hot Springs and (88 M.) Asheville (comp. R. 71).

Beyond Morristown we enjoy frequent glimpses of the Holston River, which we cross before reaching Knoxville.

560 M. Knoxville (900 ft.; Vendome, $21/2-4; Knox, $2-4; Palace, $2-3), the chief city of E. Tennessee, is finely situated among the foothills of the Clinch Mts., on the Tennessee River, formed 4 M. farther up by the junction of the Holston and the French Broad. It is the centre of the Tennessee marble district, in which 250,000300,000 tons of this beautiful stone are annually quarried. It has a large trade in country produce and various manufactures. Among the chief buildings are the University of Tennessee, the Agricultural College, the Custom House, the Court House, and the City Hall.

Knoxville claims to have been besieged thrice, but never captured. Fort Saunders, on the outskirts of the city, was unsuccessfully attacked by the Confederates on Nov. 29th, 1863. Visits may also be paid to the National Cemetery, Gray Cemetery, Ísland Home Park, and Luttrell Park.

Mountaineers may go by train to (16 M.) Maryville (Jackson Ho., $2), 25 M. (drive) from Thunderhead Peak (5520 ft.), one of the finest of the Great Smoky Mts. (ascent, with guide, in 7-8 hrs. ; *View).

The KNOXVILLE, CUMBERLAND GAP, AND LOUISVILLE R. R. runs from Knoxville to (69 M.) *Cumberland Gap (1665 ft.), the chief pass across the Cumberland Mts., between Virginia and Kentucky, and to (12 M.) Middlesborough (The Middlesborough, $ 212-4), a young iron-making town with 3271 inhab., of whose future vast hopes are entertained. In approaching the Gap the railway passes through a tunnel, 3750 ft. long, which begins in Tennessee, passes under a corner of Virginia, and comes out in Kentucky. Railways also run from Knoxville to Louisville (p. 318), etc.

The part of the Alleghenies bounding the S. horizon at this part of our route is known as the Great Smoky Mts. (5-6000 ft.), familiar to the readers of George Egbert Craddock's novels. At (590 M.) Loudon (815 ft.) we cross and quit the Tennessee River. 616 M. Athens (930 ft.), with Grant University (left).

At (643 M.) Cleveland (880 ft.; Ocoee Ho., $2), an industrial city with 2863 inhab., the railway forks, one branch running viâ Rome to Mobile or Atlanta (see below) and the other viâ Chattanooga to Birmingham and New Orleans. The latter is our present route. FROM CLEVELAND TO MOBILE, 425 M., railway in 29 hrs. This line enters Georgia at (15 M.) Cohullah. 25 M. Dalton. 68 M. Rome (Armstrong Hotel, $21/2-4), one of the chief cities of N. Georgia, with 6957 inhab. and considerable manufactures, is the junction of the line to Atlanta, Macon, and Brunswick (see p. 342). At (90 M.) Prior we enter Alabama. 131 M. Anniston (900 ft.; Anniston Inn, $21/4-4), beautifully sit

[ocr errors]

uated among the foot-hills of the Blue Ridge, has recently sprung into industrial prominence from the rich beds of brown iron ore which surround it. It is also a cotton mart. Pop. (1890) 9998. Among its chief buildings are the fine Church of St. Michael & All Angels and the Noble Institutes for Boys and Girls. 264 M. Selma (St. James Hotel, $21/2), an industrial city with 7622 inhab.,.on the Alabama, is the junction of a line to Meridian (p. 343). 330 M. Thomasville; 362 M. Jackson; 400 M. Mt. Vernon, with large U. S. barracks. 425 M. Mobile, see p. 337.

Farther on we cross the Critico Creek and thread a tunnel.

670 M. Chattanooga (685 ft.; Read Ho., $21/2-4; Southern Hotel, opposite the Central Station, $2-21/2; Brunswick, Merchants, $2-21/2; Shipp), the third city of Tennessee, with 29,100 inhab., lies on the left bank of the Tennessee, in the centre of a district rich in iron, coal, and timber. Its progress of late has been very rapid, and its manufactures (value in 1890, $9,500,000) and trade are of considerable importance. The river is navigable to this point during the greater part of the year, and railways diverge in all directions. The large Grant University (Methodist) is attended by 450-500 students (incl. those in the department at Athens, p. 341).

).

Chattanooga was a point of great strategic importance during the Civil War, and several battles were fought in the neighbourhood (comp. p. The best general idea of the military operations is obtained from *Look Out Mt. (2125 ft.), which rises to the S. of the city and commands a superb *View, extending into seven states. The top may be reached by railway (10 M.), by road, or by inclined plane (the last beginning in the suburb of St. Elmo, reached by tramway). The railway winds through the suburbs of Chattanooga, passes the Cravens Ho. (headquarters of Gen. Walthall) and the old Confederate Fort, skirts the point where the 'Battle above the Clouds' took place on Nov. 24th, 1863, and ends at the large Look Out Inn ($ 41/2; 1000 beds, incl. the cottages). A narrow-gauge railway (*Views) runs from the head of the inclined plane (restaurant) along the crest of the mountain to Sunset Rock and (3 M.) Natural Bridge. To the E. rises Missionary Ridge (also ascended by an electric tramway), which gave name to the battle of Nov. 25th, 1863. Beyond the ridge is the battle-field of Chickamauga (Sept. 19th-21st, 1863), perhaps the bloodiest battle of modern days (30,000 men killed or wounded out of 112.000 engaged), which has recently been laid out as a national park (Park Hotel, near Crawfish Springs). Other battle-fields lie a little farther to the E. The pretty Lulu Falls are easily reached from Look Out Inn. The National Soldiers' Cemetery, with 13,000 graves, lies to the E. of the city. FROM CHATTANOOGA TO BRUNSWICK, 430 M., railway in 15-17 hrs. At (27 M.) Cohuttah this line joins the line from Cleveland (see p. 341) and enters Georgia. At (80 M.) Rome (see above) we diverge from the Mobile line and run towards the E. The railway passes near several battle-fields. 152 M. Atlanta, see p. 336. From (203 M.) Florilla a steam-tramway runs to Indian Springs (The Wigwam). 240 M. Macon (Lanier Ho., $21/2-4; Brown Ho., $2-3), a busy cotton-mart and railway-centre, with 22,746 inhab, lies on the Ocmulgee River. The Wesleyan Female College here (300 students) dates from 1836 and claims to be the oldest female college in the world. 279 M. Cochran; 298 M. Eastman (Uplands Hotel; Ashland, $2-21/2), a winter-resort; 317 M. Helena. At (388 M.) Jesup we intersect the Atlantic Coast Line from Savannah to the S. (see R. 75a). 430 M. Brunswick (Oglethorpe, $21/2-4), a rising cotton-shipping port and winter-resort, with 8459 inhab., is situated on the Brunswick River, near its embouchure in the Atlantic Ocean. The 'Wanderer', the last slave-ship to cross the ocean, Ianded her 500 slaves at Brunswick. The historic St. Simon's Island (Hotel) and other pleasant resorts are in this vicinity. Steamer to Savannah and Florida, see p. 353. The line

-

FROM CHATTANOOGA TO MEMPHIS, 310 M., in 11-12 hrs.

-

crosses the Tennessee and enters Alabama at (30 M.) Bridgeport and runs towards the W. 97 M. Huntsville (610 ft.; Huntsville Hotel, $3-4; Monte Sano, a summer-hotel on a spur of the Cumberland Mts., 1700 ft. above the sea, $3-4) was formerly the capital of the state. We recross the Tennessee to (122 M) Decatur (570 ft.; The Tavern, $2-3), a rising little iron-making city with 6330 inhab. and various manufactures. 165 M. Tuscumbia, with the adjacent Sheffield and Florence (across the Tennessee), has an industrial population of 11,200. Beyond Iuka (555 ft.) we leave the Tennessee and enter Mississippi. 217 M. Corinth was a place of some strategic importance in the War and was occupied by Gen. Beauregard after the two days' fight at Shiloh (10-12 M. to the N.; April 6-7th, 1862), in which Gen. Johnston lost his life and the Confederates were defeated by Grant and Buell. Afterwards Corinth was occupied by the Unionists under Rosecrans, who repelled a desperate attempt to take it (Oct. 3rd-4th, 1862). 258 M. Grand Junction. 310 M Memphis, see p. 320.

From Chattanooga to Lexington and Cincinnati, see R. 63a.

Beyond Chattanooga the New Orleans train runs to the S.W. across Alabama on the tracks of the Alabama Great Southern R. R. (see p. 338). 722 M. Fort Payne (860 ft.); 756 M. Attala (580 ft.), the junction of lines to Decatur (see above) and Rome (p. 341).

814 M. Birmingham (580 ft.; Caldwell, $21/2-6; Florence, Wilson Ho., $21/2-3; The Oakley, E. P.), a busy manufacturing city in Jones Valley, founded in 1871 and containing 26,178 inhab. in 1890, owes its rapid growth, phenomenal among southern cities, to the vicinity (6 M.) of Red Mountain, which contains inexhaustible stores of hematite iron ore in conjunction with abundant coal and limestone. Its activity is exhibited in large rolling mills, iron-furnaces, foundries, machine-shops, etc. (total value of products in 1890, $5,237,000). Alabama stands third in the list of iron-producing states, and three-fourths of Alabama iron is produced in the Birmingham district. Railways radiate hence in all directions.825 M. Bessemer (600 ft.; Montezuma Hotel), founded in 1887, contained 4544 inhab. in 1890 and is already an ironmaking place of considerable importance. 868 M. Tuscaloosa (160 ft.), at the head of steamboat-navigation on the Black Warrior River, has 4315 inhab. and is the site of the University of Alabama (250 students). At (945 M.) Cuba we enter Mississippi. 960 M. Meridian (320 ft.; St. Charles, $2-3), an industrial city with 10,624 inhab., is the junction of lines to Vicksburg (p. 321), Corinth (see above), and Mobile (p.337). — We now follow the New Orleans & N. E. R. R. Unimportant stations. We reach Louisiana at (1115 M.) Nicholson. In entering New Orleans we cross Lake Pontchartrain (p. 370).

1163 M. New Orleans, see p. 367.

71. From Salisbury to Asheville and Paint Rock.

186 M. WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA RAILWAY in 8 hrs. (fare $ 4.60; sleeper 75 c.). From New York to Asheville in 24 hrs. (fare $21.45; sleeper $5).

This railway gives access to the beautiful scenery of Western North Carolina ('Land of the Sky'), which may be described as a plateau with an average altitude of 2000 ft., 250 M. long and 25 M. wide, bounded by the Great Smoky Mts. (p. 341) on the W. and by the Blue Ridge (p. 338)

on the E. It is crossed by several spurs of the main chain, including the Black, the Balsam, the Pisgah, the Cowee, and the Nantahala ranges. Many of these are higher than the main chains, the Black Mts. alone containing 19 peaks over 6000 ft. in height. The district is watered by numerous rivers that rise in the Blue Ridge and flow with a steep decline and rapid current across this plateau, cutting through the Great Smokies on their way to the Mississippi. The French Broad, the Pigeon, the Tuckaseegee, and the Little Tennessee are the chief of these. In this way the country is crosssectioned into many smaller valleys, affording endless variety of scenery. The fact that even the highest mountains are densely wooded to their tops adds much to the picturesqueness and softens the outlines of the landscape.

Salisbury, see p. 335. Beyond (26 M.) Statesville (955 ft.) we cross the Catawba. The main Blue Ridge (p. 338) soon comes into sight on the right, while various spurs are seen in the distance to the left. 38 M. Newton (1070 ft.). — 58 M. Hickory (1140 ft.; Hickory Inn, $3-4, meal 75 c.).

From Hickory a narrow-gauge railway runs to (20 M.) Lenoir (Jones Ho., $11/2), whence a drive of 4 hrs. brings us to Blowing Rock (Green Park Ho., Blowing Rock Ho., $2-21/2), 2 M. from the famous precipice and mountain of this name (4000 ft.). The View from the latter is superb, including the Grandfather (5895 ft.) on the W., the Pilot Mt. (2135 ft.), 100 M. to the E., King's Mt. (150 ft.) to the S., and Mitchell's Peak (p. 345) to the N. There are several pretty waterfalls and other points of interest in the vicinity.

To the left, at (79 M.) Morgantown, is the large State Lunatic Asylum. We enter the mountain-district proper at (112 M.) Old Fort (1450 ft.) and ascend abruptly through a romantic gorge, with its rocky mountain-walls overgrown by rhododendrons (in blossom in June). The engineering of the railway here is interesting, with its numerous loops, tunnels, cuttings, and bridges; at one point four sections of the line lie perpendicularly one above the other. At the head of the gorge we thread a long tunnel and reach the plateau of Western North Carolina (see p. 343). 139 M. Biltmore.

142 M. Asheville. HOTELS. *Battery Park Hotel, on a hill above the town, $4; Kenilworth Inn, 2 M. from Asheville, near Biltmore, see above, $5-7; Oakland Heights, $4; Swannanoa, $3; Winyah Sanitarium, $3; Grand Central, Oaks, $2. Electric Tramway to the station (11/2 M. from the centre of the town) and to the suburbs (5 c.).

Asheville (2350 ft.), finely situated at the junction of the Swannanoa and the French Broad, is the chief town of the district and is widely known as a health resort for patients suffering from pulmonary and other ailments. Pop. (1890) 10,235. About 70,000 persons visit Asheville annually, Southerners frequenting it for its comparative coolness in summer (mean temp. 72°) and Northerners for its mildness in winter (39°) and spring (53°; chief seasons, July and Aug., Feb. and March). Its climate is dry and bright, and there are usually few days in the year in which out-door exercise is not enjoyable. It is said to be pre-eminently suitable for early stages of phthisis, while sufferers from asthma, hay fever, nervous prostration, and the after-effects of fever all derive benefit from a sojourn in Asheville. The environs are full of scenic attractions and offer abundant opportunities for pleasant walks, rides, and drives.

WALKS. Beaumont, 1/2 M. to the E.; grounds open to visitors. Fernihurst, 11/2 M. to the S., overlooking the junction of the Swannanoa and the French Broad (open daily, Sun. excepted). - Richmond Hill, 21/2M. to the N.W. (always open). Gouche's Peak (3 M.) and Elk Mt. (5 M.), to the N. of the town, are fine points of view. -The Vanderbilt Estate, near Biltmore (p. 344), with a new and palatial mansion, many miles of fine drives, and a wonderfully varied display of trees (views).

[ocr errors]

DRIVES. Swannanoa Drive, extending for several miles along the river, the banks of which are thickly wooded and covered with rhododendrons, kalmia, and other wild flowers. Tahkeeostee Farm, 3-5 M. to the W. The Sulphur Springs, 41/2 M. to the S., may be reached by electric car (fare 15 c.). *Hickory Nut Gap, a beautiful pass where the French Broad penetrates the Blue Ridge, lies 1 M. to the S.E., on the railway to Rutherfordton. About 9 M. beyond the entrance to the Gap is the curious Chimney Rock. On the opposite side rises Bald Mt. (5550 ft.), celebrated in Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett's 'Esmeralda'. There are two plain hotels not far from Chimney Rock. Other points of interest are the Pools and the Hickory Nut Falls (1300 ft.). Arden Park (Hotel, $2), 10 M. to the S. LONGER EXCURSIONS AND MOUNTAIN ASCENTS. *Mt. Mitchell (6710 ft.), the highest peak in the United States to the E. of the Rocky Mts., rises in the Black Mts., 18 M. to the E. of Asheville. Its base may be reached by carriage along the Swannanoa or by railway to Black Mt. Station. The ascent (arduous but not dangerous) takes 5 hrs. The *View is very extensive. The night is sometimes spent in a shallow cave near the top. The name is derived from Prof. Elisha Mitchell, who lost his life here in 1857, while determining the height of the mountain, and is buried at the summit *Mt. Pisgah (5755 ft.), one of the loftiest peaks near Asheville, lies 18 M. to the S. W. and commands a splendid view of the French Broad Valley. Accommodation for the night can be obtained in a farmhouse at the base, and the ascent may be made on horseback in 2 hrs. Craggy Mt. (600 ft.), an outlier of the Blue Ridge, 14 M. to the E., may be ascended on horseback in 2 hrs. (best in June, when hundreds of acres of rhododendrons, kalmias, azaleas, and heather may be seen in bloom). *Cæsar's Head (3225 ft.), an outlier of the Blue Ridge, 45 M. to the S. W. of Asheville, may be reached either by carriage the whole way or by train to Hendersonville (see below) and carriage thence. On the S. side of the mountain is a precipice 1500 ft. high, overlooking the low country of South Carolina and Georgia for 100 M. At the summit stands a good hotel ($2). Various points of interest are passed on the way. Other distant points which are visited from Asheville are Hot Springs (see below), Highlands (see below), Roan Mt. (p. 340), Tryon, and Blowing Rock (p. 344).

[ocr errors]

This

FROM ASHEVILLE TO SPARTANBURG, 70 M., railway in 31/4 hrs. line runs towards the S. 22 M. Hendersonville (2165 ft.; Hotel, $2-3) is the nearest railway station to (25 M.) Caesar's Head (see above). Farther on the train reaches the picturesque Saluda Gap, where it descends rapidly through a narrow gorge. Fine views (best to the left). Rhododendrons 70 M. Spartanburg, see p. 335.

numerous.

FROM ASHEVILLE TO MURPHY, 124 M., railway in 9-10 hrs. The line runs towards the W. 23 M. Waynesville (2755 ft.; White Sulphur Springs Ho., $2) lies amid the Balsam Mts., five of which in the immediate vicinity are over 6000 ft. high. 49 M. Dillsborough is one of the nearest railway-stations to Highlands (3815 ft.; Davis Ho., $2; Highland Ho.. $11/2), which lies 32 M. to the S. and is the highest village to the E. of the Rocky Mts. It is frequented for its bracing air and charming scenery.

Beyond Asheville the PAINT ROCK TRAIN runs to the N. through the beautiful valley of the French Broad River. Picturesque scenery (views to left). 153 M. Alexander.

180 M. Hot Springs (1325 ft.; *Mountain Park Hotel, $4-5), situated in a beautiful little valley, 1 M. in diameter, surrounded by mountains 3-4000 ft. high, has long been frequented for its hot

« PreviousContinue »