haps, the finest old Colonial mansion on the James (comp. p. lxxxix), · 461⁄4 M. (r.) Fort Powhatan, a relic of the war of 1812. —-56 M. The Chickahominy (p. 330) joins the James opposite Claremont, a rising settlement of recent origin.

4

68 M. (1.) Jamestown, the earliest English settlement in America, founded in 1607 by Capt. John Smith and Christopher Newport. The only remains of the ancient town are the tower of a ruined church (in which Pocahontas was married) and a few tombstones. The river here expands into a wide estuary. Fleets of oyster-boats are seen. 8012 M. Deep Water Light; 89 M. Point of Shoals Light.

101 M. Newport News (Hotel Warwick, $4), a flourishing little city, with 4449 inhab., large grain elevators, coal wharves, shipbuilding yards (dry-dock 609 ft. long), and iron-works. We now

enter Hampton Roads, one of the best harbours on the Atlantic coast. It was in these roads that the Confederate iron-clad Virginia (the old Merrimac) nearly annihilated the wooden fleet of the Union, until it was itself disabled by the opportune arrival from New York of the famous turret-ship Monitor.

110 M. Old Point Comfort and Fortress Monroe, see p. 332. To the N. (left) opens Chesapeake Bay (p. 249). To reach Norfolk the steamer ascends the Elizabeth River, an arm of Chesapeake Bay.

116 M. Norfolk (St. James Hotel, $3, R. from $1; Atlantic, $21/2-4; Purcell Ho., $2-3), with 34,781 inhab., the second city of Virginia and excelled by Savannah alone among the Atlantic ports to the S. of Chesapeake Bay, was founded in 1682. The staples of its busy export-trade are cotton, coal, oysters, and early fruits and vegetables (strawberries, 'goubers' or pea-nuts, etc.). The city is irregularly laid out but contains some pleasant residence-quarters. A visit may be paid to one of the large Cotton Compresses, in which the bales of cotton are prepared for transport by being reduced by hydraulic pressure to one-fourth their original size. St. Paul's Church, dating from 1730, was struck by a British cannon-ball in 1776, but the one now resting in the indentation is not the original.

On the opposite bank of the Elizabeth (ferry) lies Portsmouth (Ocean Ho., $21/2), a city of 13,268 inhab., with an excellent harbour. At Gosport, the S. end of Portsmouth, is the Navy Yard (open 8-5), the most important in the country, with a huge dry-dock. To the N. is a large Naval Hospital. The Seaboard & Roanoke R. R. runs hence to (79 M.) Weldon (p. 346), where it connects with through-routes to the S.

From Norfolk a short branch-line runs to (18 M.) Virginia Beach (Princess Anne Hotel, $4-5), a seaside resort on the Atlantic coast, surrounded by pine forest. The Dismal Swamp (see p. 333) may be easily visited from Norfolk. - Currituck Sound, 30 M. to the S. of Norfolk, offers splendid wild-fowl shooting. Steamers ply from Norfolk to Old Point Comfort .(p. 332; 1/2 hr.), Richmond, New York, Baltimore, Washington, etc.

b. Viâ Chesapeake & Ohio Railroad.

RAILWAY to (85 M.) Old Point Comfort in 3 hrs. (fare $ 2.50). STEAM FERRY from (75 M.) Newport News to (12 M.) Norfolk in 3/4 hr. (throughfare $2.50). Norfolk is reached from Richmond by railway viâ Petersburg in 21/2-31/2 hrs. (see pp. 346, 333).

Richmond, see p. 326. The train runs to the S.E., down the peninsula between the York River and the James River, a flat region of swamps and pine forest. We skirt the Chickahominy Swamp (p. 329) and cross that river near (18 M.) Roxbury. 24 M. Providence Forge. 48 M. Williamsburg (Spencer Ho., $2), the ancient capital of Virginia, a place of 1831 inhab., with a church of 1678, a magazine of 1741, and other venerable relics.

The old College of William and Mary, chartered in 1693 (buildings mainly modern) and now used as a normal school, was the earliest college in the New World after Harvard (p. 82) and was the Alma Mater of 17 governors, 7 cabinet ministers, 1 chief justice, and 3 Presidents of the United States. In the quiet 'campus' is an old statue of Lord Botetourt.

75 M. Newport News, see p. 331.

82 M. Hampton (Barnes Hotel, $21/2), a pleasant little town with 2513 inhab., is the seat of a National Soldiers' Home (2000 inmates) and the Normal and Agricultural Institute for Negroes and Indians.

A visit to the latter is of special interest. The institute is attended by 5-600 Negroes and 100-150 Indians, of whom the former pay part of their expenses by working. The chief aim of the institute is to train teachers for the coloured schools, and in this, as well as in the education of the Indians, its success has been highly satisfactory. Visitors are welcome to the classes, parade, dinner, etc. (specimens of pupil's work for sale). Hampton also contains a National Cemetery (5000 graves), and the Church of St. John, built in 1660 with English bricks. It is connected with (3 M.) Old Point Comfort by a fine shell road and an electric tramway. The train now crosses an arm of Hampton Roads and reaches 85 M. Old Point Comfort or Fort Monroe (* Hygeia Hotel, 1000 beds, $4-8; *Chamberlain's Hotel, 1000 beds, $5, these two close to the sea; Sherwood Ho., $21/2), consisting mainly of two huge hotels, the most elaborate fortification in the United States, and a group of cottages, and situated on a small peninsula on the N. side of the entrance to Hampton Roads (p. 331), with the Atlantic Ocean in front and Chesapeake Bay (p. 249) opening to the N.

Point Comfort received its name from Capt. John Smith in 1608 and has long been a favourite seaside resort, frequented by the Northerners in winter and by the Southerners in summer. The Hygeia Hotel was originally founded, in a very modest way, in 1821, and has grown to be one of the largest and most popular houses in the country; the Chamberlain is of recent construction. The immediate proximity of Fort Monroe, with its large garrison, adds a characteristic feature to the gaiety of the place. Good bathing, boating, and 'crabbing' are among the attractions. In winter the temperature rarely falls below 40°, and in summer it seldom exceeds 80°.

Steamers ply hence to Norfolk (3/4 hr.; 50 c.), Baltimore, Richmond (p. 330), Washington, and New York (Old Dominion Line, in 24 hrs.).

*Fort Monroe, 100 yds. from the Hygeia Hotel, was constructed in 1819 et seq. to command the mouth of the James River and the approach to the Norfolk Navy Yard and to furnish a base of operations against a hostile fleet attempting to enter Chesapeake Bay. The ramparts are about 2 M. in circumference, affording a fine walk, and enclose an area of 80 acres, which resembles a beautiful park. Outside the ramparts is a broad moat. Guard-mounting (8-9 a.m.) and dress-parade (1 hr. before sunset) are great attractions to the visitor. The fort is garrisoned by a battalion of heavy artillery and

is the seat of the Artillery School of the U. S. Army. Jefferson Davis was confined here for a year and a half after the Civil War, and then released without a trial. Off-shore is the low island of the Rip-Raps, almost covered by the works of Fort Wool.

Pleasant excursions may be made from Old Point Comfort to Norfolk (p. 331), Hampton (3 M.), Newport News (p. 331), etc.

69. From Norfolk to Roanoke.

258 M. NORFOLK & WESTERN R. R. in 9-91/2 hrs. (fare $7.70; sleeper $2). This line traverses the district around Petersburg (see below), the seat of the final struggles of the Civil War.

Soon after leaving Norfolk (see p. 331) the train skirts the N. margin of the Great Dismal Swamp, which may be visited from (23 M.) Suffolk (55 ft.), at the head of the Nansemond River.

The Dismal Swamp, 40 M. long and 35 M. wide, is intersected by small canals and yields a large quantity of cypress, juniper, and other timber. At Suffolk we may hire a man and a canoe to paddle us as far as (10 M.) Lake Drummond and back by the Jericho Run Canal, a novel and interesting trip.

We now traverse a district of pine-forest. Beyond (68 M.) Disputanta (115 ft.) we approach the scene of the battles of 1864-65.

81 M. Petersburg (Gary, Southern, St. James, $2-3), a manufacturing town of 22,680 inhab., on the Appomattox, is of interest as the centre of the final operations of the Civil War. The ivy-clad ruins of the old Blandford Church are picturesque. A large stone bowl, at the N. end of the railway-bridge over the Appomattox, is known as 'Pocahontas' Wash Basin'.

Battlefields. When Grant crossed to the S. side of the James River in June, 1864 (comp. p. 329), he made City Point his base of supplies and spread his lines towards the W., so as to shut up Lee and his Confederate forces in Petersburg. The so-called Siege of Petersburg lasted from June 16th, 1864, to April 2nd, 1865; and during its continuance 13 pitched battles were fought in the neighbourhood. The intrenchments of Lee and Grant still form conspicuous features in the landscape; Grant's lines extended from the Appomattox to Fort Fisher, and thence E. to Fort Bross, a distance of 23 M. One of the best-known engagements was that of the Old Crater, to the E. of the city, on Griffith's Farm, where a small museum of war relics is shown. Carriages ($ 1-1/2 per hr.) and saddle-horses to visit the entrenchments and battlefields may be hired at the Petersburg hotels, and guides may also be obtained.

Petersburg was also the scene of important military operations in the War of Independence (1781).

From Petersburg to (23 M.) Richmond, see p. 346.

As we leave Petersburg, we see, to the right, the large Virginia Normal & Collegiate Institute, for coloured students. The country traversed is unattractive. 129 M. Crewe (425 ft.). Beyond (141 M.) Rice we cross the Appomattox Valley by a lofty iron bridge (view). At (149 M.) Farmville, with lithia springs, we enter a fruit, tobacco, and corn growing region. Near (181 M.) Appomattox, at Appomattox Court House, the Civil War ended on April 9th, 1865, in the surrender of Lee and his forces to General Grant.

Farther on (198 M.) we cross the James River and approach

(204 M.) Lynchburg (525 ft.; Norvell-Arlington, Lynch, $2; Rail. Restaurant), an industrial and tobacco-exporting city of 19,709 inhab., picturesquely situated on the S. bank of the James. It is the junction of the Richmond & Danville R. R. (see below). - Beyond Lynchburg we pass through a tunnel and begin to ascend towards the Blue Ridge Mts. The finely-shaped *Peaks of Otter (3875-4000 ft.) are seen to the right. 229 M. Bedford City or Liberty (950 ft.; Beechenbrook, $2) has 2897 inhab. and various industries. To the right, beyond it, is the handsome Randolph-Macon Academy. · At (246 M.) Blue Ridge (1240 ft.), with mineral springs and a hotel ($3), we begin to descend on the other side of the crest.

258 M. Roanoke (910 ft.; Hotel Roanoke, $3; Ponce de Leon, $21/2; Rockledge), finely situated on the Roanoke, among the Blue Hills, has grown, since 1880, from the insignificant hamlet of Big Lick (500 inhab.), to a busy city of 16,159 inhab., with large machine, iron, bridge, carriage, and other manufactories. It is the junction of various branches of the Norfolk & Western R. R., including that through the Shenandoah Valley (see R. 70b).

70. From Washington to New Orleans.

a. Viå Richmond & Danville Railroad.

1143 M. RAILWAY ('Piedmont Air Line') in 331/2 hrs. (fare $27.50; sleeper $7). Through vestibuled train (resembling that described at p. 276) from New York to New Orleans in 40 hrs. (fare $34; sleeper $9).

From Washington the line runs at first towards the S.W. 7 M. Alexandria (p. 262). 33 M. Manassas (315 ft.; Cannon Ho., $2) was the scene of two battles during the Civil War (monument to right).

In the first Battle of Manassas or Bull Run (July 21st, 1861). which was the first important conflict of the war, the Federals under McDowell were routed by the Confederates under Beauregard and thrown back on Washington. In the second battle (Aug. 29-30th, 1862), fought on almost the same ground, 3 M. to the right, Lee defeated the Federals under Pope.

At (57 M.) Rappahannock we cross the river of that name. 68 M. Culpeper was an important point during the Civil War and is now the site of a National Cemetery. The Rapidan River, which we cross at (80 M.) Rapidan, was another name frequently heard during the struggle in Virginia, 85 M. Orange. At (113 M.) Charlottesville (p. 304; Rail. Restaurant) we intersect the C. & O. R. R. (R. 58b). We continue to run thence towards the S.W., with the Blue Ridge at some distance to the right. At (173 M.) Lynchburg (Rail, Restaurant) we intersect the Norfolk & Western R. R. (see above). Farther on we cross several streams and pass numerous small stations. 238 M. Danville (420 ft.; Normandie, $21/2; Rail. Restaurant), a busy little town of 10,305 inhab., in the centre of tobacco-growing region, is the junction of the line from Richmond (p. 326) which gives name to the huge Richmond & Danville system. A little beyond Danville we enter North Carolina ('Old North

State'). — 286 M. Greensborough (840 ft.; Benbow, $21/1⁄2), a growing town of 3317 inhab., with a trade in tobacco, coal, and iron.

FROM GREENSBOROUGH TO RALEIGH AND GOLDSBOROUGH, 130 M., railway in 61/2-12 hrs. This line passes through a cotton and tobacco growing country. - 17 M. Elon College; 22 M. Burlington, with cotton-mills. 47 M. University is the junction of a branch-line to (10 M.) Chapel Hill, the site of the University of North Carolina, founded in 1795 (300 students). 55 M. Durham (Claiborne, $21/2), a city of 5185 inhab., is one of the chief tobacco-making places in America. Duke's Factory produces 250 million cigarettes annually. 81 M. Raleigh (320 ft.; Yarborough House, $21/2-3), the capital of North Carolina, with 12,678 inhab., lies on high ground near the centre of the state. The State House stands in Union Square, in the centre of the city. Among other large buildings are St. Mary's College (pleasant grounds), Shaw University (for coloured students), the State Insane Asylum, the State Geological Museum, and the Post Office. A drive may be taken to the Old, Confederate, and Federal Cemeteries (views). 130 M. Goldsborough (100 ft.; St. James, $2), a small place with 4017 inhab., is connected by railway with New Berne (Albert, $2-21/2), at the head of Neuse River, and (95 M.) Morehead, on the Atlantic coast.

A line also runs from Greensborough, viâ Fayetteville, to (179 M.) Wilmington (p. 316).

Just beyond Greensborough, to the right, is the battlefield of Guilford Court House (Mar. 15th, 1781), where the British under Cornwallis defeated the Americans under Greene. We traverse many cotton-fields. Near Salisbury we cross the Yadkin. - 335 M. Salisbury (760 ft; Mt. Vernon, $2), with 4418 inhab., was the seat of one of the chief Confederate prisons in the Civil War, and the National Cemetery contains the graves of more than 12,000 soldiers who died here in captivity.

From Salisbury to Asheville and Knoxville, see R. 71.

Near (379 M.) Charlotte (725 ft.; Buford, Central, $2-31⁄2), with 11,557 inhab., are some gold mines. It is the junction of lines to Wilmington (p. 346), to Columbia and Charleston (see R. 72 b), etc. - Beyond (407 M.) All Healing Springs we enter South Carolina ('Palmetto State'). Near (413 M.) King's Mountain (940 ft.) the Americans defeated the British on Oct. 7th, 1780, and near (445 M.) Cowpens is the scene of a more important victory of the patriots (Jan. 17th, 1781).

455 M. Spartanburg (790 ft.; Merchants' Hotel, $2-21/1⁄2), the junction of lines to Columbia (p. 347) and Asheville (R. 71), is a thriving little city of 5544 inhab., in a district of iron and gold mines and mineral springs. - 487 M. Greenville (975 ft.; Exchange Hotel, $2-21/2), a city with 8607 inhab., on the Reedy River, is the junction of a line to Columbia (p. 347). · Beyond (528 M.) Seneca (955 ft.) we cross the Savannah and enter Georgia ('Empire State of the South'). About 2 M. from (554 M.) Toccoa are the beautiful Toccoa Falls (185 ft. high). 568 M. Mt. Airy (1590 ft.; Mt. Airy Hotel, $2/2) affords a fine view of Yonah Mt. (3025 ft.) and the Blue Ridge. The line now descends. 570 M. Cornelia is the junction of a short line to (8 M.) Clarksville and (20 M.) Tallulah Falls. Clarksville (1480 ft.; Eureka, Mountain View, $2) is a convenient point from which to explore the fine scenery of the Georgia portion of the Blue Ridge Mts. The Tallulah Falls (Cliff House, $2-3; Robinson, $2), 400 ft.