From Chicago to (199 M.) Effingham, see R. 56a. Our line now diverges to the left from that to St. Louis. 244 M. Odin. 252 M. Centralia is one of the chief outlets of a rich fruit-growing country (4763 inhab.). At (288 M.) Du Quoin we are joined by the line from St. Louis (see p. 319). 308 M. Carbondale, a busy little industrial town (2382 inhab.). 329 M. Anna adjoins Jonesborough, a busy market for fruit and cotton.

365 M. Cairo (Halliday, $ 21/2-3; Planters', $2), a manufacturing city with 10,324 inhab., lies on a low flat tongue of land at the confluence of the Mississippi and Ohio. It has never, however, attained the commercial importance expected at its foundation. The train crosses the Ohio by a fine bridge and enters Kentucky. 395 M. Clinton. Beyond (409 M.) Fulton (p. 323) we enter Tennessee. 420 M. Martin. At (451 M.) Milan the line forks, the right branch running to (93 M.) Memphis (see below). - 474M. Jackson (Arlington, $2-21/2; Robinson, $2), with 64,495 inhab., is a considerable cotton - market and carries on various industries. 503 M. Bolivar. Beyond (521 M.) Grand Junction, where we cross the E. Tennessee, Virginia, & Georgia R. R., we enter Mississippi. 546 M. Holly Springs; 621 M. Grenada, on the Yalobusha River; 674 M. Durant; 709 M. Canton.-732 M. Jackson (Edwards Ho., $21/2-3), the small capital of Mississippi (5920 inhab.), has a handsome State House and other public buildings. Beyond (827 M.) Osyka we enter Louisiana. In approaching New Orleans we cross the outlet of Lake Maurepas (right) and skirt Lake Pontchartrain (left). 915 M. New Orleans, see p. 366.

65. From Louisville to Memphis and New Orleans.

847 M. NEWPORT NEWS & MISSISSIPPI VALLEY RAILWAY to (392 M.) Memphis in 14 hrs. and LOUISVILLE, NEW ORLEANS, & TEXAS RAILWAY thence to (847 M.) New Orleans in 13 hrs. (through-fare $ 11.25; sleeper $ 21/2).

Louisville, see p. 315. The line runs at first towards the S. W. 47 M. Cecilia; 72 M. Leitchfield. Beyond (118 M.) Rockport we cross the Green River. 127 M. Central City; 180 M. Princeton; 194 M. Kuttawa. A little farther on we cross the Cumberland and soon after the Tennessee, which here (15-20 M. above their mouths in the Ohio) approach within 3-4 M. of each other.

226 M. Paducah (Palmer Ho., $ 21/2), a city of 12,797 inhab., lies on the left bank of the Ohio, a little below the influx of the Tennessee. It carries on a brisk trade in tobacco, grain, and pork.

Our line now turns abruptly to the S. (left). At (271 M.) Fulton we intersect the Illinois Central R. R. (see above) and enter Tennessee. Beyond (296 M.) Obion we cross the Obion River; beyond (316 M.) Dyersburg the two branches of the Forked Deer River; and beyond (346 M.) Henning's the Big Hatchie. 354 M. Covington.

392 M. Memphis (200 ft.; Peabody, Gayoso, $21/2-4; Gaston, R. from $1, "Luehrman's, for men), the second city of Tennessee

and the most important on the Mississippi between St. Louis and New Orleans, is strikingly situated on the Chickasaw Bluffs, with a wide levee overlooking the river. It is one of the most progressive cities in the S., in spite of its former trouble with the yellow fever, and its population has increased from 33,593 in 1880 to 64,495 in 1890. It is of great importance as a distributing point for cotton (7-800,000 bales), groceries (annual value $ 25,000,000), shoes, hardware, lumber, and other commodities. Several railways converge here (comp. pp. 343, 404) and many lines of steamers ply up and down the Mississippi (comp. p. 325). The railway bridge, completed in 1892, is the only bridge across the Mississippi to the S. of St. Louis.

The Cotton Exchange, the Merchants' Exchange, the Custom House, the Office of the Appeal-Avalanche, the St. Agnes Academy, the buildings of the Tennessee Club, the Chickasaw Club, and the Athletic Association, and the Cossett Free Library are among the most conspicuous buildings. The Levee presents a busy and animated picture, and interesting visits may be paid to the various Cotton Compresses and Cotton-seed Oil Mills. Court Square contains a bust of Gen. Andrew Jackson and innumerable squirrels.

An electric tramway runs from Memphis to (5 M.) the National Cemetery, with the graves of 14,000 Union soldiers, and (8 M.) Raleigh, a pleasant resort with a large hotel. Memphis also possesses a fine Race Course. Steamers ply via the White River, St. Francis River, and Arkansas River to Fort Smith in Arkansas.

Soon after leaving Memphis the train enters Mississippi. 404 M. Lakeview (lake to the right). Beyond (437 M.) Clayton we pass Beaver Dam Lake and Beaver Dam Bayou. 448 M. Lula, near Moon Lake; 455 M. Coahoma. To the left lies Swan Lake. 531 M. Leland. We now follow the Deer River. 601 M. Redwood, on the Old River.

612 M. Vicksburg (Piazza, $21/2; Washington, $2-3; Vicksburg), picturesquely situated on the Mississippi, amid the Walnut Hills (500 ft.), is the largest city in the state and a commercial and industrial place of some importance. Pop. (1890) 13,373.

The name of Vicksburg is well known from its prominence in the Civil War, when, as the key of the Mississippi, it was strongly fortified and garrisoned by the Confederates. After baffling Farragut and Sherman in 1862, it was finally captured by Grant in 1863 (July 4th), in a campaign which cost him 9000 of his troops (comp. p. xliii). The National Cemetery above the city contains 16,600 graves.

Near (635 M.). Ingleside we cross the Big Black River, and near (641 M.) Port Gibson the Pierre. From (661 M.) Harrison a line runs to Natchez (p. 325). Farther on we cross several small rivers. Near (718 M.) Whitaker we enter Louisiana.-758 M. Baton Rouge (Capitol Ho., $2-3), the capital of Louisiana, is a quaint old place with 10,478 inhab., on a bluff above the Mississippi. It contains the Louisiana State University and other State institutions. Beyond Baton Rouge we skirt the Mississippi, with its low banks and levees, sugar-plantations, and picturesque planters' houses. 836 M. Kenner. 847 M. New Orleans, see p. 366.

BAEDEKER'S United States.

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66. From St. Paul to New Orleans by the Mississippi River.

The Mississippi, the 'Father of Waters', is one of the great rivers of the world, with a length of 2616 M. (or, reckoned from the source of the Missouri, of 4191 M.) and a drainage-basin nearly 11/2 million sq. M. in area. It rises in the N. part of Minnesota, on the watershed between Hudson's Bay and the Gulf of Mexico, and is a stream 12 ft. wide and 2 ft. deep after issuing from Lake Itasca. At first it runs towards the N.E., but soon turns towards the S.E., and its general course afterwards runs nearly due S., though with many bends and curves. The principal tributaries are the Missouri, which joins it from the W. about 1330 M. from its source; the Ohio, which comes in from the E. 220 M. farther on; and the Arkansas (W.). The best scenery is between St. Paul and St. Louis, where the river frequently flows between lofty and picturesque bluffs, 100-600 ft. high and 1-5 M. apart. The finest reaches are between St. Paul and Dubuque. After its junction with the Missouri the waters of the Missisisppi become yellow and turbid, and it flows mainly through a flat and monotonous alluvial plain. As we near the Gulf of Mexico the vegetation becomes more and more tropical in character, and the river finally loses itself in a wilderness of creeks, bayous, and swamps, reaching the gulf through several outlets. The width of the Mississippi from St. Paul to New Orleans seldom varies much from 3000 ft., except at the bends, where it sometimes expands to 1 M. or 11/2 M. The United States Government has spent many millions of dollars in improving the navigation of the Mississippi, which is still apt to be interfered with by shallows and mud-banks. The most important work was the construction of the famous Eads Jetties (see p. 326) at the mouth of the river. The first European explorer of the Mississippi was De Soto (1541), who is supposed to have reached it a little below Helena (p. 325).

Though there is a considerable traffic of smaller vessels above the Falls of St. Anthony (p. 293), the navigation proper of the Mississippi begins at St. Paul, and travellers will find comfortable passenger-steamers plying all the way thence to (1917 M.) New Orleans. The steamers of the Diamond Jo Line leave St. Paul twice weekly in summer for St. Louis, which they reach in 41/2 days (fare $ 16, incl. berth and meals). At St. Louis they connect with the St. Louis and New Orleans Anchor Line, the boats of which ply weekly and reach New Orleans in 7 days (fare $20). Reduced rates are charged for return-tickets. Comparatively few travellers will care to make the whole journey from St. Paul to New Orleans; but a day or two on the river will be found an agreeable change from the dusty railways. The boat-companies issue combination-tickets, allowing any part of the journey the traveller selects to be traversed by railway; and liberal 'stop-over' privileges are granted on all tickets.

The commerce carried on by the Mississippi is very large. In 1891 the vessels plying on that river and its tributaries numbered 7453, with an aggregate burden of about 32 million tons, including 1114 steamers, of 210,771 tons' burden. The amount of merchandise carried was 29,505,000 tons.

In the following description of the voyage down the river, only the more important places on the banks are mentioned. The distances are reckoned from St. Paul.

St. Paul, see p. 291. The steamer passes under five bridges. For the first 25 M. or so both banks of the river are in Minnesota (p. 289), but beyond the mouth of the St. Croix River (left) the E. bank is in Wisconsin (p. 287).

27 M. (right bank) Hastings (swing-bridge), see p. 289.

30 M. (1.) Prescott (swing-bridge), at the foot of Lake St. Croix, an enlargement of the river of that name.

52 M. (r.) Red Wing (see p. 289)', with Parn Bluff (200 ft.).

A little fareher on the steamer traverses the beautiful expansion of the river known as *Lake Pepin (see p. 289). To the left rises the Maiden Rock (410 ft.), to the right is the bold round headland called Point No Point.

67 M. (r.) Frontenac, see p. 289.73 M. (r.) Lake City (p. 289).. 79 M. (1.) North Pepin.-84 M. (r.) Read's Landing (pontoonbridge), at the lower end of Lake Pepin and opposite the mouth of the Chippewa. 87 M. (r.) Wabasha, see p. 289. — 117 M. (1.) Fountain City. The next stretch of the river abounds in islands, and the flanking bluffs are very picturesque in outline. 125 M. (r.) Winona (two bridges), see p. 289. 137 M. (1.) Trempealeau, at the mouth of the Black River. *Trempealeau Island, 500 ft. high, commands a beautiful view. This is, perhaps, the most beautiful section of the Upper Mississippi.

156 M. (1.) La Crosse (two swing-bridges), see p. 291. The scenery continues to be attractive, while the towns and villages on the banks now follow each other in closer succession.

defeat.

187 M. (1.) Victory. Nearly opposite is the boundary between Minnesota and Iowa (p. 290), where 'Black Hawk' met his final 199 M. (r.) Lansing (Iowa). — 227 M. (1.) Prairie du Chien (pontoon-bridge), near the mouth of the Wisconsin River (see p. 291). - 230 M. (r.) McGregor (pontoon-bridge). - 252 M. (r.) Guttenberg. 260 M. (1.) Cassville. 289 M. (1.) East Dubuque (p. 291) lies in Illinois (p. 270), just beyond the frontier of Wisconsin. Nearly opposite rises Eagle Point (300 ft.).

290 M. (r.) Dubuque (two bridges), see p. 290. The bluffs now become lower and the scenery tamer. 325 M. (1.) Savanna is connected with (327 M.; r.) Sabula (p. 388) by a railway-bridge. 345 M. (1.) Fulton (p. 320), Lyons (r.), and

1

347 M. (r.) Clinton (p. 389) are connected by three bridges. Beyond (381 M.; r.) Le Claire we shoot the picturesque Upper Rapids, which extend hence to Rock Island.

397 M. (1.) Rock Island (p. 290) and (398 M.; r.) Davenport are united by the fine bridge mentioned at p. 290. A good view is obtained of the Government Island and Arsenal. 426 M. (r.) Muscatine (bridge), a thriving city with 11,432 inhab., carries on a brisk trade in timber, sweet potatoes, and melons. · 455 M. (1.) Keithsburg (bridge; 1484 inhab.).

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480 M. (r) Burlington (bridge), see p. 390.-494 M. (1.) Dallas City. 512 M. 504 M. (r.) Fort Madison (bridge), see p. 302. (1.) Nauvoo, a place of 1450 inhab., was once a flourishing Mormon city with a population of 15,000 (see p. 425). - 515 M. (r.) Montrose lies at the head of the Lower Rapids, which extend hence to (527 M.; r.) Keokuk (bridge), at the mouth of the Des Moines River, here forming the boundary between Iowa and Missouri ('Bullion State'). 531 M. (1.) Warsaw (2721 inhab.). — 551 M. (r.) Canton (2241 inhab.).

568 M. (1.) Quincy (bridge), see p. 402. 588 M. (r.) Hanni- 616 M. (r.) Louisiana (bridge; 5090 641 M. (1.) Hamburg.

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bal (bridge), see p. 401. inhab.). 626 M. (r.). Clarkville. 663 M. (r.) Cap au Gris. 690 M. (1.) Grafton, at the mouth of the Illinois River. 706 M. (1.) Alton, see p. 302.

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About 3 M. farther on we reach the confluence of the Mississippi and the Missouri. The latter river, flowing in from the N.W., has a longer course than the Mississippi up to their junction (2908 M., as compared with 1330 M.) and contributes a greater volume of water to the joint stream, so that it would seem that the name Mississippi in its application below this point has clearly usurped the place of the Missouri. The clear waters of the Mississippi long refuse to mingle with the turbid flood of the Missouri.

729 M. St. Louis and its two magnificent bridges are described in R. 61. This is the terminus of the Diamond Jo Line Steamers, and passengers continuing their journey by water are here transferred to one of the boats of the Anchor line (comp. p. 322).

The scenery of the Lower Mississippi differs materially from that of the Upper Mississippi (comp. p. 322), and the place of landscape beauty is taken to some extent by historic interest. The towns and villages on the banks usually follow each other rapidly, and innumerable islands are passed.

761 M. (32 M. from St. Louis; r.) Crystal City (see p. 314). 789 M. (r.) Ste. Genevieve (1586 inhab.). 809 M. (1.) Chester (2708 inhab.). 849 M. (1.) Grand Tower, a favourite resort of the citizens of St. Louis. A little farther on we pass the island known as the Devil's Tea-table. 879 M. (r.) Cape Girardeau (4297 inhab.). 894 M. (1.) Commerce. The large island to the right, a little farther on, is Power's Island.

929 M. (1.) Cairo, at the mouth of the Ohio, see p. 320. 951 M. (1.) Columbus (bridge), the first landing-place in Kentucky (p. 305), was strongly fortified by the Confederates in the Civil War, but was ultimately abandoned without attack. Just beyond is Wolf Island or Island No. 5. 967 M. (1.) Hickman (1652 inhab.). --Island No. 10, off (986 M.; r.) Donaldson Point, was also strongly fortified in the war and was captured by the Federal gun-boats in April, 1862, after a month's bombardment. 988 M. (1.) Wades, nearly opposite, is in Tennessee (p. 317). 999 M. (r.) New Madrid, with 1193 inhab., was captured at the same time as Island No. 10. 1017 M. (1.) Tiptonville. A little to the E. lies Reelfoot Lake. -Numerous small and unimportant landings are now passed.

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1074 M. (r.) Hickman's is the first station in Arkansas (p. 404). 1119 M. (1.) Fort Pillow, situated on the First Chickasaw Bluff, evacuated by the Confederates in 1862, was the scene of what is known as the Fort Pillow Massacre (April 12th, 1864). The river now winds considerably and passes several islands, the largest of which are named Centennial and Brandywine.