collections in the Great Fire (p. 281) but again contains many objects of interest. The Armour Mission, at the corner of Butterfield and 33rd Sts., is one of the most interesting of the Chicago charities, including a mission hall, a crèche, a library, a kindergarten, a free dispensary, etc. The Armour Institute, the principal feature of which is manual training, has been endowed by its founder with $1,400,000.

The Libby Prison (Pl. C, 6), in Wabash Ave., built at Richmond in 1845 as a tobacco warehouse, was converted into a prison during the Civil War and confined more than 12,000 Union prisoners. In 1889 it was transferred bodily to Chicago, where it has been fitted up as a Museum of the Civil War (adm., see p. 280). A little farther to the N. is John Brown's Fort (see p. 280).'

Few travellers will leave Chicago without a visit to the famous Union Stockyards (Gen. Pl. C, D, 6). The yards are in South Halsted St., 51/2 M. to the S.W. of the City Hall, and may be reached by the South Halsted St. tramway or by the State St. line, with transfer at 35th St. or 43rd St. Visitors are freely admitted to the yards and will be shown round by a guide (25 c. each); but it is advisable to be provided with an introduction to one of the great packing-houses.

The yards proper cover an area of about 400 acres, and have 50 M. of feeding-troughs and 20 M. of water-troughs. The annual receipts of cattle are between 3 and 4 million head, besides 8-9 million hogs, 2-3 million sheep, and 100,000 horses, with a total value of 200-250 million dollars. From two-thirds to three-fourths of the cattle and hogs are killed in the yards, and sent out in the form of meat. About 25,000 workers are employed by the packing-houses, and the annual value of their products is nearly 150 million dollars. The largest and best known packing-house is that of Armour & Co., which in the year ending April 1st, 1891, slaughtered 712,000 cattle, 1,714,000 hogs, and 413,000 sheep, employed 7900 men, and sold goods to the value of $66,000,000, including canned meats, fertilizers, glue, etc. The processes of killing the cattle and hogs are extremely ingenious and expeditious, and will interest those whose nerves are strong enough to contemplate with equanimity wholesale slaughter and oceans of blood. The guide should be asked to point out 'Old Bill', the 'bunko steer', who acts as a decoy for his mates.

An interesting visit may be made to one of the large Grain Elevators, of which there are about 30, with an aggregate capacity of nearly 30 million bushels. They are all situated on the river.

A visit to Pullman (Florence Hotel, D. $ 1), 14 M, to the S. of the Court House, on the Illinois Central Railroad (3/4 hr.), should also be included by all who can spare half-a-day. An order for admission to the Pullman Car Works may be obtained at the Pullman Building, Michigan Ave., cor. of Adams St. (Pl. C, 3), but no guide is provided for visitors. Pullman was built and is owned by the Pullman Palace Car Co., and is a model little town, consisting mainly of neat workmen's houses. To the left of the tasteful station are the *Pullman Car Works, the various processes of which are full of interest. About 200 Pullman cars, 500 ordinary passenger-cars, and 10,000 freight-cars are manufactured annually, with a total value of 10-12 million dollars. The Pullman Car Co. now owns and operates 2500 cars. Among the chief features of the town is the Arcade, a building which includes shops, a tasteful theatre, and a free library (8000 vols.; M. Duane Doty, custodian). The population of the town in 1890 was about 11,000, most of whom are connected with the Pullman Car Works, though the 5-6000 operatives employed there are not compelled to live in Pullman.

Other favourite points for short excursions from Chicago are Evanston, Michigan City, St. Joseph, Kenosha, Grand Haven, Kewaunee, Sturgeon Bay (all reached by steamer), Glen Ellyn Springs, Lake Forest, Highland Park, Winnetka, etc.

49. From Chicago to Milwaukee.

a. Via Chicago & North-Western Railway.

85 M. RAILWAY in 21/2-3 hrs. (fare $2.55; chair-car 35 c.).

Chicago, see p. 279. The line runs to the N. along Lake Michigan, passing many small stations forming suburban homes for Chicago merchants. 12 M. Evanston, with the buildings of the NorthWestern University, a Methodist institution with 1000 students (incl. 600 in the preparatory school). A little beyond (36 M.) Waukegan we enter Wisconsin (the 'Badger State'), a fertile agricultural and lumbering state, with numerous interesting Indian mounds and large deposits of iron. More prehistoric copper implements have been found here than in any other state. A very large number of the inhabitants are of German or Scandinavian stock. -51 M. Kenosha, with 6532 inhab. and a flourishing trade and industry. 62 M. Racine (Commercial, Merchants', $2), the fourth city of Wisconsin, with 21,014 inhab., has a good lake-harbour and carries on considerable trade and manufactures.

85 M. Milwaukee, see below.

b. Via Chicago, Milwaukee, & St. Paul Railroad.

85 M. RAILWAY in 21/2-23/4 hrs. (fares as above).

Chicago, see p. 279. This line runs nearly parallel with that above described, but a little more inland. 9 M. Mayfair; 32 M. Rondout; 43 M. Wadsworth. 85 M. Milwaukee, see below.

Milwaukee.

Hotels. *Plankinton House, Grand Ave., cor. of West Water St., $21/2-5; Pfister, Wisconsin St., cor. of Jefferson St., $21/2-5; Schlitz Hotel, Grand Ave., cor. 3rd St., R. from $1; Republican Ho, cor. Cedar & 3rd Sts., $2-3; Pabst, 464 Market Sq., $2-31/2. Railway Restaurant, D. 75 c. In the suburbs are numerous pleasant Beer Gardens, in the German style. Tramways (fare 5c) traverse the principal streets.

Steamers ply regularly to all the chief places on the Great Lakes, and to various summer-resorts near Milwaukee.

Theatres. Davidson's, 3rd St., near Grand Ave.; Bijou, 2nd St.; People's, West Water St.; Opera Ho., Oneida St.

Post Office, cor. of Wisconsin St. and Milwaukee St.

Milwaukee (580 ft. above the sea), the largest city in Wisconsin and one of the chief manufacturing and commercial centres of the N.W., occupies a pleasant undulating site on the W. shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of the river Milwaukee. An excellent harbour has been formed by the erection of huge breakwaters, and the river admits the largest lake-vessels to the doors of the warehouses. The Milwaukee receives two tributaries, the Menomonee and Kinnickinnic, within the city. The city is well built, largely of a lightcoloured brick, and many of its streets are lined with shade-trees. Fully one-half of its (1890) 204,468 inhab. are Germans, which may account for its successful cultivation of music and art.

Milwaukee was founded in 1835 and received a city-charter in 1846.

Its growth has been rapid, particularly in the last 10 years.

The chief articles of its extensive commerce are grain, flour,

lumber. Its flour-mills are very large, and its grain - elevators have a capacity of 6 million bushels. Milwaukee lager beer (Pabst, Schlitz, Blatz, etc.) is known all over the United States, and in 1892 was produced to the amount of 21/4 million barrels. Pork-packing is extensively carried on, and the other staple manufactures include leather, machinery (Reliance Works), iron and steel goods, and tobacco (total value in 1890, $95,000,000).

Grand Avenue, which runs E. and W., contains many of the chief buildings and best shops, while Wisconsin Street and East Water Street are also busy thoroughfares. Among the most prominent buildings are the Custom House & Post Office, at the corner of Wisconsin and Milwaukee Sts.; the County Court House (view from dome), in the square bounded by Jefferson, Jackson, Oneida, and Biddle Sts.; the Chamber of Commerce, Michigan St.; and St. Paul's Church (Epis.), Marshall St. The Exposition Building, in Cedar St., contains a museum of natural history (open every afternoon, all day on Sat.), and the "Layton Art Gallery, at the corner of Jefferson and Mason Sts., has some interesting pictures (open daily; adm. on Wed. and Frid. 25 c.). The Public Library, 408 Grand Ave., possesses 70,000 vols. (reading-room open 9-9). A large new City Hall is contemplated.

*Juneau Park, laid out on a bluff overlooking the river, contains statues of Solomon Juneau (1793-1856), the earliest white settler, and Leif Ericson (p.81); it commands fine views. A pleasant drive may be taken to the N. along the river to (5 M.) Whitefish Bay. The Forest Home Cemetery lies at the S.W. corner of the city. Visitors to Milwaukee should not fail to inspect one of the great Breweries, such as Pabst's, which produces over 1,000,000 barrels of beer annually; and the Grain Elevators and Flour Mills will also repay a visit.

About 3 M. to the W. of the city is the National Soldiers' Home, with accommodation for 2000 disabled soldiers and a fine park (open to the public on week-days). One of the favourite resorts of Milwaukians is Waukesha (Fountain Spring Ho., $ 3-5), a village 20 M. to the W., with the well-known Bethesda Spring, the water of which (efficacious in diabetes and Bright's disease) is exported all over the United States and to Europe. Milwaukee is an important railway-centre, lines radiating hence to all points in Wisconsin. Those running to the N. and N.W. reach Marquette, Ashland, Duluth, and other points on Lake Superior (comp. p. 296), but hardly fall within the scope of this Handbook. From Milwaukee to Madison and St. Paul, see R. 50.

50. From Chicago to St. Paul and Minneapolis.

a. Viâ Chicago, Milwaukee, & St. Paul Railroad.

420 M. RAILWAY to (410 M.) St. Paul in 13-14 hrs. and thence to (10 M.) Minneapolis in 1/2-3/4 hr. more (fare $11.50; parlor-car $1, sleeper $2). The fast mail line of this service is the route via La Crosse, described below; but some trains run vià Madison and Prairie du Chien or viâ Dubuque.

From Chicago to (85 M.) Milwaukee, see R. 49. The line now turns to the W. 99 M. Brookfield; 118 M. Oconomowoc. At (130 M.) Watertown our route diverges to the right from the line vià Madison (p. 289) and Prairie du Chien (see p. 291 and above).

Beyond Watertown our line runs to the N.W. 150 M. Columbus; 178 M. Portage City (Rail. Restaurant), a trading city with 5143 inhab., at the head of the navigation of the Wisconsin. 195 M. Kilbourn City (Finch Ho., $2-21/2) is the starting-point for a visit to the fantastic Dalles of the Wisconsin (comp. p. 394). 240 M. Tomah; 257 M. Sparta. -283 M. La Crosse (650 ft.; Cameron Ho., $21/2; Rail. Restaurant), a flourishing city of 25,090 inhab. on the E. bank of the Mississippi, with large saw-mills and an extensive timber-trade.

We now cross the Mississippi, here 1/3 M. wide, enter Minnesota (the 'North Star State'), and ascend on the W. bank of the river, through picturesque scenery (views to the right). 307 M. Winona, with 18,208 inhab. and a trade in timber and grain. 340 M. Wabasha lies near the foot of the beautiful expansion of the Mississippi known as *Lake Pepin (30 M. long and 3-5 M. wide). 352 M. Lake City and (359 M.) Frontenac are two favourite resorts in this beautiful district (comp. p. 323). 369 M. Red Wing; 390 M. Hastings. 410 M. St. Paul, see p. 291. - 420 M. Minneapolis, see p. 293.

b. Viâ Chicago & North-Western Railway.

42112 M. RAILWAY to (4091/2 M.) St. Paul in 13-14 hrs. ; to (4212 M.) Minneapolis in 3/4 hr. more (fares as above).

Chicago, see p. 279. The train runs to the N.W., passing various suburban stations. 63 M. Harvard Junction. We enter Wisconsin a little farther on. Beyond this point some trains run viâ (91 M.) Beloit (important college) and others viâ (91 M.) Janesville, re-uniting at (116 M.) Evansville.

1381/2 M. Madison (845 ft.; Park Hotel, $21/2-3; Capitol, Ogden, $2-21/2; Tonywatha Springs Hotel, 3 M. from the city, $2-3), the capital of Wisconsin, a pleasant city of 13,426 inhab., situated between the beautiful Lakes Mendota and Monona. The State Capitol is a handsome building and contains a good library. The S. wing is occupied by the *Wisconsin Historical Society, the most important institution of the kind beyond the Alleghenies, which possesses a library of 150,000 vols., an art-gallery, and a valuable museum. The University of Wisconsin, finely situated on University Hill, overlooking Lake Mendota, is attended by 1000-1200 students. Its observatory (the Washburn Observatory) is one of the best in America.

Beyond Madison we pass to the N. of the pretty Lake Mendota (see above). At (213 M.) Elroy we diverge to the left from the line to La Crosse (see above) and traverse a district of pine-forests. At (3211/2 M.) Eau Claire (17,415inhab.) we cross the Chippewa River. 345 M. Menomonee. 3901/2 M. Hudson, with the O. W. Holmes Sanitarium ($11/2-21/2), pleasantly situated on the E. bank of Lake St. Croix. An excursion may be made to the "Dalles of the St. Croix. We now cross the Mississippi and enter Minnesota (see above). 4091/2 M. St. Paul, see p. 291. 4211/2 M. Minneapolis, see

P. 293.

BAEDEKER's United States.

19

c. Viâ Albert Lea Route.

529 M. CHICAGO, ROCK ISLAND, & PACIFIC R. R. to (222 M.) West Liberty; BURLINGTON, CEDAR RAPIDS, & NORTHERN R. R. thence to (413 M.) Albert Lea; MINNEAPOLIS & ST. LOUIS R. R. thence to (521 M.) Minneapolis and (529 M.) St. Paul (21 hrs.; fares as above).

Chicago (Van Buren St. Station), see p. 279. The train runs at first to the W.S.W. through a great prairie region, which offers comparatively little of interest to the stranger, except the sight of the growing wheat. 40 M. Joliet (540 ft.), an agricultural and industrial centre with 23,364 inhab., on the Des Plaines River. 84 M. Ottawa (9985 inhab.); 99 M. La Salle (9855 inhab.); 159 M. Geneseo.

181 M. Rock Island (470 ft.; Harper Ho., $2-3; Rock Island Ho., $2; Rail. Restaurant), an important railway-centre and industrial town of 13,634 inhab., on the E. bank of the Mississippi. It lies at the foot of the Moline Rapids, which afford good water-power. The island in the river from which it takes its name, 970 acres in area, is occupied by a large *United States Arsenal.

The train now crosses the river by a fine bridge, enters Iowa (the 'Hawkeye State'), and reaches (182 M.) Davenport (Kimball Ho., Lindell Ho., $2-3), a grain-shipping city opposite Rock Island, with 26,872 inhab. and considerable manufactures. It is the junction of a line to Kansas City (p. 400). --- Our train diverges to the right (N.) from the main line to Omaha at (222 M.) West Liberty (Rail. Restaurant) and traverses the great wheat-fields of N. Iowa. 259 M. Cedar Rapids (710 ft.; Pullman Ho., Grand, $2-21/2) is a thriving town and railway-centre on the Cedar River, with 18,020 inhab. and large pork-packing houses. 316 M. Cedar Falls. Beyond (396 M.) Northwood we enter Minnesota. 413 M. Albert Lea (1230 ft.; Gilbert Ho., $2) is a thriving little city (3305 inhab.). 512 M. Hopkins. 521 M. Minneapolis, see p. 293.-529 M. St. Paul, see p. 291.

d. Viâ Chicago Great Western Railway.

420-430 M. RAILWAY in 13-14 hrs. (fares as above).

Chicago (Harrison St. Station), see p. 279. The train runs at first a little to the N. of W. 52 M. Sycamore; 126 M. Stockton. We reach the Mississippi at (167 M.) Dubuque (600 ft.; Julien Ho., $3-4; Lorimier, $2-3), the third city of Iowa, with 30,311 inhab. and a large trade in grain, lumber, and lead. 197 M. Dyersville. At (240 M.) Oelwein (1040 ft.) we diverge to the right (N.) from the main line to Kansas City (p. 401). 348 M. Dodge Centre.

420 M. St. Paul, see p.291.—430 M. Minneapolis, see p. 293.

e. Viâ Chicago, Burlington, & Quincy Railroad. 431-442 M. RAILWAY in 131/2-20 hrs. (fares as above).

Chicago (Canal St. Station), see p. 279. 37 M. Aurora (650 ft.; Bishop Ho., $2-21/2), an industrial city with 19,688 inhab., claims to have been the first to light its streets by electricity (1881). We