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297 M. Emporium

The somewhat dreary and unsettled district we now traverse is known as the Great Horseshoe of the Alleghenies. 278 M. Driftwood, junction of a line to Pittsburg (p. 240). (1030 ft.; St. Charles, $2), a hill-surrounded village with 2147 inhab., is the junction of the Western New York and Pennsylvania R.R.

FROM EMPORIUM TO BUFFALO, 121 M., railway in 5 hrs. - This line runs to the N. to (25 M.) Port Allegheny, and then follows the Allegheny River to (51 M.) Olean (Olean Ho., $2), on the Erie R. R. (p. 278), one of the largest petroleum s'oring places in the world. Pop. 7358. To the left, near (72 M.) Franklinville, is Lime Lake. 121 M. Buffalo, see p. 192.

318 M. St. Mary's (1670 ft.), in a lumbering and bituminous coal producing district, has a large German Benedictine college and convent. 342 M. Wilcox (1525 ft.), with a large tannery. 351 M. Kane (2020 ft.; Thomson Ho., $2), a small town with 2944 inhab., frequented for deer-shooting and fishing. We now begin to descend on the Lake Erie side of the ridge. 380 M. Warren (1195 ft.), pleasantly situated at the confluence of the Allegheny and the Conewango, is the junction of a line to Dunkirk (p. 267). - 409 M. Corry (1445 ft.), an industrial town (5667 inhab.).

From Corry to Pittsburg and to Buffalo, see p. 243. Corry is also the junction of lines to Jamestown (p. 278), etc.

428 M. Waterford (1190 ft.), on the Le Boeuf Lake. Beyond (433 M.) Jackson (1225 ft.) we cross the watershed between the Ohio and Lake Erie, here only 8 M. from the latter.

446 M. Erie, see p. 267.

37. From Philadelphia to Harrisburg and Pittsburg.

354 M. PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD to (105 M.) Harrisburg in 23/4-4 hrs. (fare $3.15, parlor-car $1.50); to (354 M.) Pittsburg in 9-13 hrs. (fare $10, parlor-car $2, sleeper $2). This line, forming part of the fine through-route from New York to Chicago (see R. 47a), traverses the beautiful valleys of the Susquehanna and Juniata.

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Leaving the handsome Broad St. Station (p. 213) the train crosses the Schuylkill and runs to the N.W. through W. Philadelphia (p. 219), passing various suburban stations, most of which are tasteful little buildings surrounded with flower-gardens. 9 M. Haverford College, with the most important college of the Orthodox Quakers, situated in a finely wooded park to the left. - 10 M. Bryn Mawr (415 ft.; Welsh 'great ridge'; Bryn Mawr Ho.), is the site of *Bryn Mawr College, one of the youngest and best colleges for women in the United States (130 students). The tower of the main building is conspicuous to the right. -12 M. Villa Nova has a R. C. college, monastery, and farm. To the left, at (161/2 M.) Devon, is the large Devon Inn ($4-5), a favourite summer-resort. At (20 M.) Paoli (535 ft.) the British defeated the Americans on Sept. 20th, 1777 (monument). It was the birthplace of 'Mad' Anthony Wayne (1745-96; p. 148).

The train now leaves the region of suburban homes and enters the 'Garden of Pennsylvania', one of the richest and most carefully

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cultivated farming districts in America. A splendid *View of the peaceful Chester Valley is disclosed to the right as we cross the ridge (550 ft.) of a S. outlier of the Alleghenies and emerge on the hillWe follow the ridge for some time and then descend to the valley. 321/2 M. Downingtown. Iron-works and lime-kilns now appear. At (381/2 M.) Coatesville (380 ft.; 3680 inhab.) we cross the West Brandywine by a bridge 73 ft. high. - 51 M. Gap (560 ft.) lies in an opening in Mine Hill, on the watershed between the Delaware and the Susquehanna, and the train now descends into the Pequea Valley, with its fields of wheat, maize, and tobacco. - - Crossing the Conestoga Creek, which preserves the name of the Conestoga Indians, we reach (69 M.) Lancaster (360 ft.; Stevens Ho., $21/2; Lancaster), a prosperous manufacturing town of 32,011 inhab. and an important market in tobacco and farm produce.

The Franklin & Marshall College and the Theological Seminary here both belong to the German Reformed Church. Woodward Hill Cemetery contains the grave of President Buchanan (1791-1868). The district is largely peopled by the descendants of German colonists. A railway runs hence to Hanover and Gettysburg (p. 235).

Beyond (87 M.) Elizabethtown the train enters the picturesque defiles of the South Mountain. At (90 M.) Conewago we cross the stream of that name (view) Farther on we reach the W. bank of the Susquehanna, a wide, shallow stream, thickly strewn with rocks. 96 M. Middletown, at the mouth of the Swatara, with 5080 inhab., is an iron-making place. At (102 M.) Steelton (pop. 9250) are the huge works of the Pennsylvania Steel Co., employing 4500 men.

105 M. Harrisburg (320 ft.; Lochiel Ho., $3; Commonwealth, $3; Bolton, $21/2-3), the capital of Pennsylvania, is finely situated on the E. bank of the Susquehanna, here about 1 M. wide. Pop. 39,385. Except when the legislature is in session it is a somewhat dull place. The Capitol, surmounted by a dome and conspicuously situated on a hill, contains a good library. In State St. is a War Monument, 110 ft. high. A small enclosure in Harris Park contains the grave of John Harris, father of the founder of the town, and the stump of the tree to which he was tied by drunken Indians (1718), who intended to burn him alive. The Susquehanna is crossed here by four bridges, one of which is the quaint old covered bridge described by Dickens in his 'American Notes'.

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FROM HARRISBURG to GETTYSBURG, 47 M., railway in 13/4-2 hrs. The train crosses the Susquehanna, just below the old bridge (see above), and runs to the S.W. 21 M. Carlisle Junction, for a branch-line to (6 M.) Carlisle (see below). Near (22 M.) Mt. Holly Springs we pass through a gap (1000 ft) in the South Mountain. As we approach Gettysburg we traverse the field of the first day's battle (see p. 237). 47 M. Gettysburg, see p. 235.

FROM HARRISBURG TO WINCHESTER, 116 M., railway in 4-41/2 hrs. This line traverses the fertile Cumberland Valley, between the Blue Mts., on the right, and the South Mountain, on the left. The train crosses the Susquehanna as above. 18 M. Gettysburg Junction, for the line to Gettysburg (see above). 19 M. Carlisle (480 ft.; Mansion Ho., $2), a pleasant little town of 7620 inhab., with a Government Indian Training School, in which about 800 Indian children are taught the arts and methods of civilisation. Carlisle was Washington's headquarters during the 'Whiskey War'

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of 1794, and it was captured by Gen. Lee in 1863. About 5 M. beyond (63 M.) Greencastle the train crosses the famous Mason and Dixon's Line (see p. 236) and enters Maryland ('Old Line State'), the northernmost of the old slave-holding states. 74 M. Hagerstown (570 ft.; Baldwin, $2-3), a town of 10,118 inhab., on the Antietam, is the junction of lines to Washington (see p. 251), Harper's Ferry (via Weverton; see p. 265), and the Shenandoah Valley (R. 70 b). It was a centre of military operations in the Civil War. 81 M. Williamsport is the point where Gen. Lee crossed the Potomac on his retreat after the battle of Gettysburg (p. 233). We here enter West Virginia (‘Pan-handle State'). - At (94 M.) Martinsburg (635 ft.), on the Tuscarora, we intersect the Baltimore & Ohio R.R. (p. 266). 116 M. Winchester.

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FROM HARRISBURG TO READING, 54 M., railway in 1/2-2 hrs. chief intermediate station is (26 M.) Lebanon. 54 M. Reading, see p.229. FROM HARRISBURG TO WILLIAMSPORT, 93 M., Northern Central Railroad in 3-3/4 hrs. This railway ascends on the E. bank of the Susquehanna to (54 M.) Sunbury (p. 230). Thence to (93 M.) Williamsport, see p. 230. From Harrisburg to Baltimore, see p. 250.

Beyond Harrisburg the Penn, R. R. runs to the N. on the left bank of the Susquehanna to (110 M.) Rockville, where it bends to the W. and crosses the river by a bridge 2/3 M. long (*View). It then turns to the N. again and passes the Dauphin Gap (350 ft.). The river, now to the right, is wide, shallow, and nearly choked with grassy islets.

Beyond (119 M.) Duncannon the line leaves the Susquehanna and begins to ascend to the left through the valley of the 'beautiful blue' *Juniata, 'which has been the theme of more song and romance than almost any other American river' (Cook).

The Scenery along this river, as we cross ridge after ridge of the Alleghenies, is of the most picturesque character; and the entire geological formation of Pennsylvania is exhibited to the student, as the river cuts its way through a stratification 6-7 M. in thickness. The line follows the windings of the river (views chiefly to the right). The district traversed is full of historical reminiscences of the struggles of the early ScotoIrish colonists with the Indians and of the enterprise of David Brainerd and other missionaries. An immense traffic in coal and iron is carried on by this line, and the coal-trains are sometimes of extraordinary length.

At (1371/2 M.) Millerstown (410 ft.) we thread the *Tuscarora Gap, where the railway, river, road, and canal squeeze their way side by side through a narrow defile. This lay in the land of the Tuscarora Indians (see p. 187). Beyond (154 M.) Mifflin we pass through the picturesque *Lewiston or Long Narrows, where the railway runs for several miles along one side of the stream, with the road and canal on the other. The slopes of the hills (1000 ft.) are covered with slate debris. 167 M. Lewiston (500 ft.), a prosperous little place with 3273 inhab., lies at the mouth of the Kishicoquillas Valley. In this valley, a little above Lewiston, was the home of the famous Mingo chief Logan, whose friendship for the white man was changed to hatred by the cruel massacre of his family.

191 M. Mt. Union lies at the entrance of "Jack's Narrows (600 ft.), made by the river forcing its way through Jack's Mt. 202 M. Huntingdon (Brunswick, $2), the largest town on the Juniata (5729 inhab.), occupies the site of the 'Standing Stone', where the Indians assembled for centuries to hold their grand councils.

The Broad Top Mt. Railroad runs hence to (53 M.) Bedford, near which are Bedford Springs (Bedford Springs Ho., $3-4; Arandale, $2-3).

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At (209 M.) Petersburg (680 ft.) we leave the canal, which follows the Franktown branch of the river, and ascend the Little Juniata. At (222 M.) Tyrone (905 ft.), where we reach the E. base of the main range of the Alleghenies, the line turns sharply to the left (S.W.), leaves the Juniata, and enters the Tuckahoe Valley. Bald Eagle Valley opens to the N.E.

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Tyrone is the outlet for the important Clearfield Coal Measures, which in 1889 produced 5,224,500 tons of bituminous coal. About 3 M. to the E. is the Sinking Valley, which takes its name from the Sinking Spring, a singular underground watercourse.

From Tyrone the train runs along the base of the Alleghenies (right) to (237 M.) Altoona (1180 ft.; Logan Ho., $3; Wopsononock Inn; Rail. Restaurant), a busy town of 30, 337 inhab., founded in 1850 by the Pennsylvania R. R. and consisting almost wholly of its workshops and workmen's houses.

Altoona is, perhaps, the most representative railway-town in America. The works cover 120 acres, employ 6.00 men, and produce 300 locomotives, 200 pa senger cars, and 5000 freight cars annually. Some of the locomotives made here weigh 125 tons. Those who wish to see the fine passage of the Alleghenies by daylight may pass the night here. Good views are obtained from Prospect Hill to the S. and Gospel Hill to the N.

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Beyond Altoona the train gradually ascends to the summit of the mountains, climbing a gradient of 90 ft. to the mile. At (242 M.) Kittaning Point (1595 ft.) the line is carried round the famous *Horseshoe Curve (views to the left), a wonderful piece of engineering, where the line crosses two ravines on a lofty embankment and cuts away the promontory dividing them. The sides of the curve are parallel, so that trains travelling the same way seem to be moving in opposite directions. A little farther on we pass through a Tunnel, 2/3 M. long and 2160 ft. above the sea, crossing the Alleghenies and the watershed between the Atlantic and the Mississippi. The top of the ridge is 210 ft. above the tunnel.

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The descent on the W. slope of the mountains is less abrupt. 248 M. Gallitzin, at the W. end of the tunnel, is named in honour of Prince Demetrius Gallitzin (d. 1840), who laboured as a missionary in this district for 40 years. 252 M. Cresson Springs (2015 ft.; Mountain House, $4), a favourite summer-resort. Coaches ply hence to Loretto, founded by Prince Gallitzin (see above). We descend along the upper waters of the Conemaugh, and the scenery increases in attractiveness. Numerous vestiges are seen of the old Portage Railroad, which formerly served the traffic across the Alleghenies by a series of inclined planes, communicating at each end with canals. Near (269 M.) Mineral Point (1415 ft.) we cross the Conemaugh. Conemaugh Lake (1460 ft.), the bursting of the dam at which caused the terrible disaster of 1889 (see p. 235), lies a little to the left. 273 M. Conemaugh (1275 ft.).

275 M. Johnstown (1185 ft.; Morrell Ho., $21/2), an iron-making city at the confluence of the Conemaugh and Stony Creek, was

founded in 1791 by a German pioneer, named Joseph Jahns. It contains 21,805 inhab. and has to a great extent recovered from the effects of the inundation. The huge *Cambria Steel Works, on the N. side of the river, were partly destroyed by the inundation in 1889, but have been restored and again give employment to 8000 men.

A glance at the deep narrow valleys with their high enclosing walls, at the junction of which the city lies, goes far to expl in the possibility of so tremendous a catastrophe as that which overwhe med Johnstown on May 31st, 1889. Conemaugh Lake (see above), 21/2 M. long and 11/2 M. wide, was reserved as a fishing-ground by a club of Pittsburg anglers, and its waters were restrained by a dam 1000 ft. long, 110 ft. high, 0 ft. thick at the base, and 25 ft. thick at the top. A continuance of violent rains filled the lake to overflowing, and all efforts to save the dam were fruitless. The break occurred about 3 p.m., a gap of 300 ft being at once formed. The water that burst through swept down the valley in a mass 1/2 M. wide and 40 ft. high, carrying away everything in its way and completely destroying Johnstown and the other towns and villages in its track. The distance of 18 M. between Johnstown and the lake was traversed in about 7 min. The mass of houses, trees, machinery, railway iron, and human bodies was checked by the massive railway-bridge below Johnstown, and soon caught fire, probably burning to death some hundreds of persons imprisoned in the wreckage. The estimates of the total loss of life vary from 220 to 5000. The vaue of property destroyed was at least $10,000,000 (2,000,0007.).

The train descends along the left bank of the Conemaugh. 295 M. Bolivar (1030 ft.) lies at the entrance to the beautiful *Packsaddle Narrows, where the river breaks through the Chestnut Range, the W. ridge of the Alleghenies, which tower 1200 ft. above the water. At (300 M.) Blairsville Intersection (1115 ft.) the line forks, the main line leaving the Conemaugh and running direct to Pittsburg, while the right branch runs viâ Blairsville to Allegheny City (p. 243).

The district we traverse as we approach Pittsburg is a veritable 'Black Country', full of coal-pits, coke ovens, and smelting furnaces. 313 M. Latrobe; 322 M. Greensburg (1090 ft.). We approach the Monongahela at (343 M.) Braddock's (8561 inhab.), which marks the scene of the memorable defeat of General Braddock on July 9th, 1755, on his expedition against Fort Du Quesne (see p. 240). It was in rallying the defeated British forces that Washington won his first military laurels. The huge Edgar Thomson Steel Works are now situated here (see p. 242). 346 M. Wilkinsburg (926 ft.),

with two fine Homes for Aged Persons. 354 M. Pittsburg, see R. 39.

38. Gettysburg.+

Gettysburg is reached from New York viâ the Pennsylvania or the Reading R. R. in 71/2 hrs. (fare $6.50), from Philadelphia via the same railways in 5 hrs. (comp. p. 232; $4), and from Washington viâ Baltimore in 62/3 hrs. by the Western Maryland or the Northern Central R. R. (comp. p. 250).

This account of Gettysburg was prepared for Baedeker's Handbook to the United States by Mr. Joel Cook, of the Philadelphia Public Ledger', who was present at the battle as a special correspondent.

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