It is 825 ft. long view of the Falls is obstructed by the Cantilever Bridge.

A little below the Suspension Bridge is the entrance to the socalled Rapids Park, where we descend an Inclined Railway (50 c.) to view the *Whirlpool Rapids, which in their own way are as wonderful as the Falls. The immense volume of water is here forced to flow through so narrow a channel (300 ft.) that it actually assumes a convex form, the centre of the river being 20-30 ft. higher than the edges. Three other elevators (each 50 c.) descend to the Rapids on the American side.

The impression of force is overwhelming. The surges did not look like the gigantic ripples on a river's course, as they were, but like a procession of ocean billows; they rose far aloft in vast bulks of clear green, and broke heavily into foam at the crest' (Howells).

It was in an effort to swim down these Rapids that Capt. Webb lost his life in 1883, but since then several persons have passed through them safely in barrels. The old 'Maid of the Mist' was successfully piloted through the Rapids to Lewiston in 1861. Blondin and others have crossed the gorge above the Rapids on ropes of hemp or wire.

We may now cross the railway Suspension Bridge and return along the American side (tramway, see p. 200). ·

About 1 M. below the Railway Suspension Bridge is the *Whirlpool, of which we get a good distant view from the top of the cliff, while we may descend to its margin by an inclined railway (50 c.). The river here bends suddenly at right angles to its former course, and the Whirlpool is occasioned by the full force of the current impinging against the cliffs of the left bank.

'Here within the compass of a mile, those, inland seas of the North, Superior, Huron, Michigan, Erie, and the multitudes of smaller lakes, ali pour their floods, where they swirl in dreadful vortices, with resistless undercurrents boiling beneath the surface of that mighty eddy. Abruptly from this scene of secret power, so different from the thunderous splendours of the cataract itself, rise lofty cliffs on every side, to a height of two hundred feet, clothed from the water's edge almost to their crests with dark cedars. Noiselessly, so far as your senses perceive, the lakes steal out of the whirlpool, then, drunk and wild, with brawling rapids roar away to Ontario through the narrow channel of the river. Awful as the scene is, you stand so far above it that you do not know the half of its terribleness; for those waters that look so smooth are great ridges and rings, forced, by the impulse of the currents, twelve feet higher in the centre than at the margin. Nothing can live there, and with what is caught in its hold, the maelstrom plays for days, and whirls and tosses round and round in its toils, with a sad maniacal patience' (Howells).

The RIVER ROAD ascends along the American side of the river from Goat Island Bridge to (1 M.) the Old French Landing, where La Salle and Father Hennepin are said to have embarked in 1678 after their portage from Lewiston. Nearly opposite, on the Canadian shore, is the village of Chippewa, where the Americans defeated the English in 1814. About 1 M. farther up is the Schlosser Landing, fortified by the French in 1750 and by the English in 1761. Navy Island, near the Canadian shore, gave shelter to the insurgents of the 'Mackenzie War' (1837-38). Just above is Grand Island (26 sq. M. in area), which obtained some notoriety in 1820, when Major Noah proposed to found here the city of Ararat, as a universal refuge for the Jews. Opposite Grand Island, on the American shore, 5 M. above the Falls, is the mouth of the Cayuga, where La Salle launched the 'Griffon', the first vessel to navigate the Great Lakes (1679).

The Observation Trains of the N.Y.C.R.R. between Niagara Falls and (7 M.) Lewiston (return-fare 25 c.) afford admirable Views (to the left) of the gorge of the Niagara. Lewiston, a pleasant little village, is the starting-point of the steamers across Lake Ontario to Toronto. - On the opposite shore, on the Michigan Central R.R., is Queenston, where Gen. Brock fell on Oct. 11th, 1812 (spot marked by a monument 195 ft. high). About 8 M. to the N.E. of Niagara Falls is the Reservation of the Tuscarora Indians (p. 187; baskets, etc., for sale). Fort Niagara, at the (14 M.) mouth of the river, first established in 1678, is now garrisoned by U.S. troops. Opposite is the watering-place of Niagara-on-the-Lake.

30. The St. Lawrence River and the Thousand Islands.

Passengers who make the St. Lawrence trip from American soil usually join the steamer at Clayton (see below), which is reached from New York (346 M.) via the N. Y. C. R. R. to (238 M.) Utica and the Rome, Watertown, & Ogdensburg R. R. thence (10 hrs.; through - carriages; fare $8.27; comp. R. 28 a). The Montreal steamer of the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Co. leaves Toronto in the evening, and Kingston (where it receives most of its passengers) about 5 a.m., calling at Clayton 1 hr. later (fare from Clayton to Montreal $5.25). Those who wish merely to visit the Thousand Islands may do so by the steamer 'St. Lawrence' which makes daily round trips from Clayton (fare 50 c.). Comp. Baedeker's

Handbook to Canada.

The St. Lawrence, the outflow of the Great Lakes, has a length (from Lake Ontario to its mouth) of 500 M. and pours more fresh water into the Ocean than any other river except the Amazon. It is navigable for large vessels to Montreal and for small steamers all the way, though some of the rapids have to be avoided by means of canals by boats ascending the river (comp. p. 207). During 4-5 months, however, the navigation of the lower St. Lawrence is stopped by ice. Comp. Baedeker's Canada.

Distances in the following route are calculated from Kingston. Kingston (British American Hotel, $2-3), a city of 19,264 inhab., with picturesque fortifications, situated at the point where the St. Lawrence issues from Lake Ontario, is described in Baedeker's Canada. A small steamer plies regularly to Cape Vincent.

On leaving Kingston our steamer almost at once begins to traverse the expansion of the St. Lawrence known as the "Lake of the Thousand Islands, which is 40 M. long and 4-7 M. wide and contains about 1700 islands, big and little. Many of these islands are favourite summer-resorts, with hotels and boarding-houses, while others are private property, with the country - houses of rich Americans and Canadians. The voyage through them is picturesque, and many of the islands are illuminated at night. Our course at first lies between Wolfe or Long Island (r.) and Howe Island (1.).

25 M. (r.) Clayton (Hubbard, Walton, Windsor, $211⁄2), a village and summer-resort with 1748 inhab., is the terminus of the R., W., & O. R. R. from (103 M.) Utica (comp. p. 108). Opposite is the large Grindstone Island, behind which, on the Canadian shore, lies Gananoque.

28 M. (r.) Round Island, with the large Hotel Frontenac ($3-4). 31 M. (1.) Thousand Island Park (Columbian, $3; Thousand Island Park Ho., $21/2), a great Methodist resort, at the W. end of Wells Island.

39 M. (r.) Alexandria Bay (Crossmon, $4; Thousand Isle Ho., $3-5; Central Park Ho., $2-3), the chief resort among the Thousand Islands, lies on the American shore opposite Wells Island, and counts pretty scenery and good boating and fishing among its attractions. Among the most prominent villas on the neigbouring islets are those of George M. Pullman (p. 286) and H. H. Warner (of the 'Safe Cure'). Westminster Park (Hotel Westminster, $2-3) lies at the E. end of Wells Island, opposite Alexandria Bay.

Farther on we pass the Summerland Islets (1.) and the long Grenadier Island (1.), leave the Lake of the Thousand Isles, and reach the open river, here about 2 M. wide. For some distance now the voyage is monotonous and uninteresting.

63 M. (r.) Morristown (Terrace Park Hotel, $ 2-3).

64 M. (1) Brockville (Revere, St. Lawrence Hall, $211⁄2) is a Canadian city with 8793 inhab. and good fishing.

76 M. (1.) Prescott (Daniels Ho., $2-3).

77 M. (r.) Ogdensburg (Seymour Ho., $2), a city with 11,662 inhab. and a trade in grain. From Ogdensburg to Rouse's Point, see p. 115; to Rome and Utica, see p. 188.

About 10 M. below Ogdensburg we pass through the Galoup Rapids, which are followed, 10 M. lower, by the Rapid du Plat. Neither of these is very noticeable, though each is avoided by a canal (Canadian side) in going up stream. Between the two rapids we pass the narrowest point in the river (500 ft.). Numerous islands. 97 M. (1.) Morrisburg, just below the Rapid du Plat.

102 M. (r.) Louisville Landing, whence stages run to (7 M.) Massena Springs (Hatfield Ho., $1/2; Harrowgate Ho.; comp. p. 189).

113 M. (1.) Dickinson's Landing, at the head of the *Long Sault Rapids, between the Canadian shore and Long Sault Island. The rapids are 9 M. long and are tumultuous enough to give a slight suggestion of danger to the process of 'shooting' them. They are avoided in ascending by the Cornwall Canal, 12 M. long.

125 M. Cornwall (Rossmore Ho., $2-21/2), a town of 6805 inhab., at the foot of the Long Sault Rapids. The boundary between the United State and Canada bends away from the river here, and the Indian village of St. Regis, opposite Cornwall, is in the Province of Quebec. The Adirondack Mts. (p. 165) are now visible to the right.

140 M. Lancaster lies on the expansion of the river named Lake St. Francis, 28 M. long and 5-7 M. wide. Beyond (155 M.) Port Louis (r.) both banks are in Quebec.

At (165 M.) Coteau Landing the river is crossed by a railway swing-bridge (comp. Baedeker's Canada). We now enter a series of rapids which follow each other at short intervals, with a combined length of 20 M.: Coteau Rapid, Cedar Rapid, Split Rock Rapid, and the Cascades. The large Roman Catholic churches of the villages that line the banks are now very conspicuous.

173 M. (r.) Beauharnois, at the foot of this series of rapids, lies

opposite the mouth of the Ottawa River, which enters the St. Lawrence by two channels, enclosing the island of Perrot. The village of Ste. Anne, on the E. bank of the E. branch, is the scene of Tom Moore's well-known 'Canadian Boat Song'. The Lake of St. Louis, which

we now traverse, is 12-15 M. long.

198 M. (1.) Lachine (Lake View, Hanna, $2) lies at the head of the famed Lachine Rapids, the shortest (3 M.) but most violent of all, forming an exciting and dramatic close to our voyage. The rapids begin just below the fine bridge of the Canadian Pacific Railway. Soon after leaving the rapids we pass under the *Victoria Tubular Bridge. To the left lies

207 M. Montreal (see Baedeker's Handbook to Canada).

31. From New York to Philadelphia.

a. Viå Pennsylvania Railroad.

90 M. RAILWAY in 21/4-21/2 hrs. (fare $212; parlor-car 50 c.). The huge railway-station is in Jersey City (p. 6; ferries from Desbrosses St. and Cortlandt St. and from Brooklyn).

The Pennsylvania Railroad has, perhaps, the strongest claim to the title of the leading railway of the United States in right of its combination of extent of system, punctuality of service, excellence of roadbed, civility of employees, and comfort of equipment (comp. p. 217).

Jersey City, see p. 51. The train runs to the W. to (9 M.) Newark (Continental, Park, $2-3), a prosperous but uninteresting city on the Passaic, with 181,830 inhab., large breweries, and extensive manufactures of jewelry, iron goods, celluloid, paper, and leather (value in 1890, $82,000,000). Thomas A. Edison, the inventor, has his home and workshop here. The line passes through the town 'at grade'. At (141/2 M.) Elizabeth (Sheridan Ho., $2-21/2), a well laid-out city with 37,764 inhab., we cross the Central R.R. of New Jersey. 191/2 M. Rahway, with 7105 inhab. and considerable trade and manufactures. 24 M. Menlo Park, the rural home of Thomas A. Edison, the 'Wizard of Menlo Park'. - 3112 M. New Brunswick (Palmer Ho., $21/2), on the Raritan, a manufacturing city of 18,603 inhab., is the site of Rutgers College (seen to the right), a well-known institution of the Dutch Reformed Church, chartered in 1770 (250 students). In entering the city we cross a bridge over the river, the Delaware & Raritan Canal, and the road. - At (41 M.) Monmouth Junction diverges the line to Long Branch, etc. (R. 33 c.)-47 M. Princeton Junction, for the branch to (3 M.) Princeton (The Nassau, $3), with 3422 inhabitants.

Princeton College or College of New Jersey, founded at Elizabeth (see above) in 1746 and transferred to Princeton in 1757, ranks high among the American universities and is attended by about 800 students. It is under the control of the Presbyterians, and the Princeton Theological Seminary is considered one of the bulwarks of orthodoxy. The college buildings, among the chief of which are Nassau Hall, Dickinson Hall, the School of Science, Marquand Chapel, the Art Museum, and the Library (80,000 vols.), stand in a beautiful tree-shaded 'campus'. The Battle of Princeton (Jan.