Page images
PDF
EPUB

graph for a boat to meet them at the inlet of Upper Ausable Lake (comp. p. 175), and should arrange to pass the night in Boulder Camp (p. 175). *View, see p. 175. A trail leads through the woods from Adirondack Lodge to (5-6 M.) John Brown's Farm (p. 172). The South Meadow Trail (easy to follow) diverges to the right from the road to the high-road, 1 M. from the Lodge, and leads to the W. viâ the South Meadow Marshes, and then to the N. to the high-road, which it reaches about 2 M. to the W. of the Cascade Lakes (p. 171). This is the shortest route for walkers to Keene Valley, but is uncomfortable in wet weather.

FROM ADIRONDACK LODGE THROUGH THE INDIAN PASS TO THE ADIRONDACK CLub, Lake Henderson, and Tahawus, 23 M. (910 hrs.; guide necessary).

The trail begins at the S. end of Clear Lake and leads through the woods. A divergence of a few hundred yards on either side of the path would bring us into virgin forest, where, perhaps, no white man had ever been before. After about 5 M. (2 hrs.) we reach a small open camp, where meals are sometimes cooked by the guide. The next mile involves a good deal of rough clambering over rocks (no danger) and leads us to (1/2 hr.) Summit Rock, in the centre of *Indian Pass (2940 ft.), a magnificent ravine between Mt. McIntyre and Mt. Wallface. In front of us the *View stretches over a sea of forest to (5 M.) Lake Henderson, 1300 ft. below us, while to the right the majestic rocky wall of **Wallface (3890 ft.) rises sheer to a height of 1300 ft., one of the grandest cliffs in the New World. The headwaters of the Hudson, flowing to the S., and the Ausable, flowing to the N., rise here so close to one another that they are said to mingle in time of flood. [Those who do not wish to go on by this route to the Blue Mt. country may turn back here, as this view commands the entire pass and the trail farther on is rough and neglected. Good walkers, however, may go on to Lake Henderson and return to Adirondack Lodge by the Lake Colden route (see p. 175), spending a night, if desired, at the Adirondack Club (see below). Our path then begins to descend rapidly, at first over rocks. Farther on it is easier and more gradual. In 5 M. (2 hrs.) from Summit Rock we reach Lake Henderson (1875 ft.), the E. bank of which we follow to (2 M.; 3/4 hr.) the deserted hamlet of Adirondack or the Upper Iron Works, where accommodation may be procured in the house of the Adirondack Club ($3), which holds 40 sq. M. of the surrounding country as a game and fish preserve. Mt. Marcy (see p. 174) may be ascended hence in 5-6 hrs. by a trail (12 M.) leading viâ Calamity Pond to Lake Colden (as described at p. 175) and then striking to the right and passing the Tear of the Clouds (p. 175; guide necessary). To the W. rises (4 M.) Mt. Santanoni (4645 ft.), and to the N.W. (8 M.) Mt. Seward (4385 ft.). The Iron Works were established in 1826 by a Mr. Henderson, who was killed by an accident at Calamity Pond (p. 175) in 1845, after which they were abandoned. From the Adirondack Club a fair road leads to the S., passing Lake Sanford (1800 ft.; 312 M. long), to (21 M.) Tahawus Post Office. Hence we may either drive to the right (W.) to (19 M.) the Sagamore, at Long Lake (p. 178), or to the left (E.) to (19 M.) Schroon River Post Office, M. to the N. of Schroon Lake (p. 177).

d. From Saratoga to North Creek.

Schroon Lake. Blue Mountain Lake. Raquette Lake. Long Lake. FROM SARATOGA TO NORTH CREEK, 59 M., Adirondack Railway in 21/2 hrs. ($2; sleeping-cars from New York to North Creek without change $2; from Saratoga to Blue Mt. Lake $43/4).

Saratoga, see p. 179. The train runs to the N., passing Hilton Park (p. 181; r.). Near (17 M.) Jessup's Landing we reach (r.) the Hudson, the pretty upper valley of which we follow. At (22 M.) Hadley we cross the Sacandaga (bridge 96 ft. high).

Hadley is the station for Luzerne (Wayside, $31/2-4), a pleasant summer-resort beyond the Hudson, on the pretty little Lake of Luzerne.

The wooded sugarloaf hill to the right, beyond Hadley, is known as the Potash Kettle (1735 ft.). The valley contracts, and the hills are prettily wooded. 50 M. Riverside (815 ft.) is the starting-point of the stage-coaches for (7 M.) Schroon Lake (see below).

The coaches run viâ (6 M.) the Pottersville House ($2, D. 75c.) to the landing at the lower end of the lake, whence a small steamer plies to the hotels at its (9 M.) head (fare from Riverside $2), touching at the Watch Rock Hotel ($2-3), on the E. shore, and the Taylor House ($21/2-3), on the W. shore. Schroon Lake (830 ft.), 10 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, is surrounded by rugged hills and affords good fishing. Near its head lies the village of Schroon Lake, with numerous hotels, the largest of which are the Leland House ($3-31/2), the Lake House ($2/2), the Ondawa ($21/2), and the Windsor (2-21/2). The road (stages) to the N. runs hence viâ Schroon River Post Office (p. 171) to (22 M.) Euba Mills (p. 171), where it forks, one branch going to (6 M.) Keene Valley (p. 172), the other to (10 M.) Elizabethtown (p. 171).

59 M. North Creek (975 ft.; American Ho., $2) is the terminus of the railway and the starting-point of the coaches to Blue Mt. Lake.

FROM NORTH CREEK TO BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE, 30 M., coach in 6-7 hrs. (fare $3). This is not a very attractive drive, especially as the road is bad and passes through an extensive 'burnt district'. To the left rises Gore Mt. (3540 ft.). 5M. North River Hotel (Roblee's; D. 75 c.). The road now quits the Hudson and ascends rapidly. Mt. Marcy (p. 174) may be seen in the distance to the right. We cross (17 M.) Indian River (Hotel, $2). 18 M. Indian Lake (Ordway Ho., $2); 20 M. Cedar River (Hotel, $2). We cross the watershed (1760 ft.) between the Hudson and the Raquette. 25 M. Forest House ($2).—29 M. Blue Mountain Lake (see below).

Blue Mountain Lake (1800 ft.), 3 M. long and 2 M. wide, flies at the base of Blue Mt. (3760 ft.), which rises to the N.E.

The hotels on the lake are the Prospect House (500 beds; $ 4-5), on the S. shore; Holland's Lake House ($3), at the E. end; Blue Mt. House (225 ft. above the lake; $21/2), at the foot of Blue Mt. Blue Mountain (3760 ft.) is ascended by a bridle-path in 2 hrs. A road leads N. from Blue Mt. Lake, through the woods, to (10 M.) Long Lake Village (p. 178).

[ocr errors]

FROM BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE to Raquette LAKE, 12 M., steamlaunch in 3 hrs. (fare to Marion Carry 75 c., to the Hemlocks or the Antlers $1.25, to Forked Lake Carry $1.75). The little steamer traverses Blue Mt. Lake, affording a good view of Blue Mt., passes through a small outlet into Eagle Lake (with Eagle's Nest, a solitary farm-house on the N. bank, formerly the home of 'NedBuntline', the author), and then threads another connecting stream and reaches the narrow Utowana Lake, 21/2 M. long. At the W. end of this lake we leave the boat and pass across a short carry (11⁄2 M.) to the Marion River, the intricate course of which we descend in another steam-launch to (6 M.) Raquette Lake, where we disembark at the Hemlocks or the Antlers.

*Raquette Lake (1775 ft.), the most irregularly shaped of the Adirondack lakes, with numerous promontories and bays, is about 10 M. long (5 M. in a direct line) and 1-21/2 M. wide. It is surrounded by low hills, and the environing forests teem with game.

BAEDEKER'S United States.

12

The following are the Lake Raquette hotels: *Antlers ($31/2), on the W. bank; The Hemlocks ($3), near the Marion River Outlet; Whitney ($2), S. end; Blanchard's Wigwam ($2), W. bank. The Private Camps round Raqette Lake are the most elaborate in the whole district, and *Camp Pine Knot (W. W. Durant, Esq.), on the S. side of the promontory below the Marion River, is, perhaps, the most beautiful place of the kind in America, if not in the world. An introduction to the owner of one of these camps will double the pleasure of a visit to the lake.

To the S.W. of Raquette Lake stretches the Fulton Chain of Lakes (1680-1800 ft.), eight in number, a favourite resort of sportsmen and anglers. They are reached hence via the Brown Tract Inlet, and a small steamer plies on some of the lakes. They may be approached from Herkimer by the Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railway (see below). Other parts of this W. district of the Adirondacks are frequented by sportsmen; but the means of locomotion are scanty and the accommodation somewhat primitive.

FROM RAQUETTE LAKE TO LONG LAKE, 12 M., by small boat, with guide. From the N. end of Raquette Lake we cross a short carry (1/2 M.) to Forked Lake (1750 ft.; Forked Lake House, closed), a picturesque sheet of water, with several private camps.

Those who are bound for the Tupper Lakes (p. 179) cross Forked Lake (pron. 'Forkéd') to the N., pass through the outlet into (6 M.) Little Forked Lake, and thence proceed, by boat (21/2 M.) and carries (51/2 M.), viâ Carry Pond, Bottle Pond, and *Rock Pond, to (8 M.) Little Tupper Lake (see p. 179).

We turn to the right (E.) on Forked Lake and from its E. end descend through the picturesque Raquette River to (8 M.) Long Lake, about 2 M. of the route being the 'carries' required to pass the Buttermilk Falls and other unnavigable parts of the river.

Long Lake (1615 ft.), 14 M. long and 1/2-1 M. wide, is pretty, though tamer than many of the other lakes. To the right and left as we enter it are Mt. Sabattis and the Owl's Head (2825 ft.). On the right (E.) bank, about 2 M. below the head, is the Grove House ($21/2), a great hunting and fishing resort; and about 1 M. farther on, on the same side, is Long Lake Village, with the Sagamore House ($3-4) and Long Lake House ($ 2).

Nearly opposite Long Lake Village begins a boat and portage route to Little Tupper Lake (p. 179) viâ Clear Pond, Little and Big Slim Ponds, and Stony Pond.

Farther on Long Lake expands. At its lower end (W. bank) is the small Island House. To the right rises Mt. Seward (p. 176). From Long Lake to Upper Saranac Lake, see p. 169.

e. From Herkimer to Malone via the Tupper and Saranac Lakes. 173 M. ADIRONDACK AND ST. LAWRENCE RAILWAY in 6-7 hrs. (fare $5.22; parlor-car $1.25). Through - carriages run from New York to all points in the Adirondacks reached by this railway (to Tupper Lake Junction in 10 hrs., $8.14; to Saranac Inn in 101/2 hrs., $8.59; to Malone in 12 hrs., $9.60; parlor-car or sleeper $2). The line traverses the whole of the Adirondack Wilderness from S. to N. Through-carriages will also be run from New York and from Boston viâ Malone.

[ocr errors]

Herkimer, see p. 187. The line runs towards the N.W. 20 M. Trenton Falls, see p. 188. We cross the West Canada Creek. 28 M. Remsen, see p. 188. At (50 M.) McKeever we cross the Moose River. - 58 M. Fulton Chain is 11/4 M. from Old Forge (Forge Ho., Cedar Isle Ho., $2), whence a small steamer ascends the Fulton Lakes

(see p. 178) to the head of Fourth Lake. Thence we may ascend by small boat and 'carries' to (3-4 hrs.) Raquette Lake (p. 177). 69 M. Big Moose; 80 M. Little Rapids; 91 M. Bog Lake. 107 M. Childwold, the station for (5 M.; coach $1) the Childwold Park House ($3-4), on Lake Massawepie.

1131/2 M. Tupper Lake Junction is 11/2 M. (stage) from Tupper Lake Village (Altamont, $21/2-5), the terminus of the Northern Adirondack R. R. (see below), situated on Raquette Pond, 2 M. below the foot of Tupper Lake (see below). In summer a steamer plies hence to the head of the lake, calling at the various hotels. The station is 8 M. from Wawbeek Lodge (p. 169), on Upper Saranac Lake.

Tupper Lake (1555 ft.), 7 M. long and 3 M. wide, is surrounded by low but wild hills and is much frequented by sportsmen. It contains several islands. The chief hotel is the Tupper Lake House ($3), near its head (S. end). Moody's ($2), near the N. end, is a smaller house. From the head of Tupper Lake we may proceed by boat and portages to (414 M.) Round Pond, cross this (21/2 M.) by boat, and carry to (1 M. Little Tupper Lake. Little Tupper Lake (1730 ft.) is 4 M. long and 1 M. wide. On its W. bank is the Robbins House, an unpretending resort of sportsmen. From Little Tupper Lake to Long Lake, see p. 178; to Raquette Lake, see p. 178.

a

The line now passes several small lakes. 1281/2 M. Saranac Inn Station, 11/2 M. from Saranac Inn (p. 169). From (1311/2 M.) Lake Clear (11/2 M. from Big Clear Ho., p. 168) branch line runs to the right to (5 M.) Saranac Village (see p. 169). To the left lies Clear Lake (p. 168). 136 M. Paul Smith's is 4 M. from the St. Regis Lake House (see p. 168; stage). A stage also runs hence to (16 M.) Meacham Lake House. To the left, at (139 M.) Rainbow Lake Station (Rainbow Inn, $2), we see Rainbow Lake (3 M. long; trout). 148 M. Loon Lake Station is 31/2 M. from Loon Lake House (p. 168; stage). The line now runs parallel to the Chateaugay Railway (p. 167) for some distance and then skirts the Salmon River.

173 M. Malone (Flanagan, Howard, $2-21/2), an industrial village with (1890) 4896 inhab., is a station on the Central Vermont Railway from Rouse's Point to Ogdensburg (see p. 189).

The Tupper Lakes and the St. Regis Lake House may also be reached by the Northern Adirondack R. R., starting from Moira (p. 189), another station on the Central Vermont line to Ogdensburg, 14 M. to the W. of Malone.

26. Saratoga.

Railway Stations. Delaware and Hudson Station, Division St., near the back of the U. S. Hotel, for New York, Albany, the Adirondacks, etc.; Mt. McGregor Railway Station, Catherine St.; Saratoga Lake Railway Station (Fitchburg R. R.), Henry St., for Saratoga Lake, Boston, etc.

Hotels. GRAND UNION, occupying the square between Broadway, Congress, Federal, and Washington Sts., and enclosing a large tree-shaded court, with 2400 ft. of street-front and 2000 beds, $5; UNITED STATES HOTEL, Broadway, cor. Division St., an enormous structure 300 yds. long, with nearly 2000 beds, $5; CONGRESS HALL, Broadway, between Spring St. and East Congress St., with 1000 beds, $3-4; WINDSOR, Broadway, cor. E. William St., a fashionable house, from $5; CLARENDON, Broadway, cor. William St., frequented by Southerners, $4; *WORDEN, Broadway, cor.

Division St., $3, open all the year round; ADELPHI, next door to the U. S. Hotel, $3; AMERICAN, adjoining the last, $3-31/2; COLUMBIAN, near the Clarendon, from $21/2; KENSINGTON, Union Ave.; MANSION HOUSE, Excelsior Park, $ 21/2; VICTORIA ($21/2-31/2), HUESTIS, ALBEMARLE ($ 2-3), and many other small hotels and boarding-houses, at all prices. Dr. Strong's Sanitarium, Circular St., with good baths.

Horse Races in July and Aug. at the Race Course, Union Avenue. Post Office, in the Arcade, opposite the U. S. Hotel.

Saratoga Springs (300 ft.), the most noted inland wateringplace in the United States and in some respects the most remarkable in the world, is situated on a level and monotonous plateau near the E. edge of the State of New York, 180 M. to the N. of the city of New York and 12 M. to the W. of the Hudson. The saline mineral springs which have made the fame of the place are about 30 in number (see below). The permanent population of the town is about 12,000, but in the height of the season (July and Aug.) this is often more than doubled.

The name is supposed to be derived from Indian words meaning 'place of the swift water'. The springs were known to the Indians for centuries, and Jacques Cartier heard of their virtues in 1535. The first white man to use them is believed to have been Sir William Johnson (p. 187), the adopted sachem of the Mohawks, who was brought hither by these Indians in 1767 and recovered his health by drinking the High Rock Spring (p. 181). Hotels and boarding-houses began to be erected early in the present century, and since then the progress of the place has been very rapid, in spite of its want of fine scenery or commercial advantages. No more effective picture of the wealth of the United States can be seen anywhere than at Saratoga during July or Aug., though Newport (p. 68) and Lenox (p. 139) show a greater refinement of luxury. Saratoga is also a popular place for 'conventions' of politicians, lawyers, bankers, etc. — Large quantities of the water are exported to all parts of the United States and Europe. The battle of Saratoga (Oct., 1777), resulting in the surrender of Sir John Burgoyne to the Americans, was fought some distance to the S. of the Springs (see p. 182).

The Hotels of Saratoga afford accommodation for about 20,000 visitors. The two at the head of the list are among the largest, if not the very largest, hotels in the world; and a visit to their enormous ball-rooms, dining-rooms, and piazzas should not be omitted. The dining-room of the Grand Union is 275 ft. long.

Most of the Springs lie in a shallow valley stretching to the N.E. from Broadway (see pp. 181, 187), and rise through a fault in the underlying rock (slate, limestone, and sandstone), the S. strata being tilted above those to the N. Some are chalybeate, others contain iodine or sulphur, and all are strongly impregnated with carbonic acid gas. Their temperature is usually 46-50 and most of them are pleasant to drink. They are both tonie and cathartie in working, and are considered efficacious in dyspepsia, liver complaints, calculus, rheumatism, etc. They should not be too freely indulged in without medical advice.

Broadway, the principal street of Saratoga, containing the chief hotels, the best shops, and the finest private residences, runs N. and S. for a distance of 3 M. and is shaded by fine elms. Most of the springs are in or near it. Proceeding to the right (S.) from the U. S. Hotel we soon reach, to the left, Spring St., just to the N. of Congress Hall (p. 180), with the Hathorn Spring, a saline spring containing bicarbonate of lithia. To the S. of Congress Hall is Congress Spring Park, a prettily laid out little park (adm. 5c.),

« PreviousContinue »