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strictly preserved. An occasional shot at a bear may be had in the remoter recesses, but the visitor need scarcely count on this as among the possibilities. The shooting of Partridges (ruffed grouse, Bonasa umbellus) is carried on with the aid of dogs. Good Fishing is obtained in many of the lakes and ponds. The intending sportsman should put himself at once into communication with the local talent. His outfit should be as plain, strong, and limited in extent as possible. Comp. also p. xxv.

CAMPING is one of the chief features of Adirondack life; the camps varying from the luxurious permanent 'Camp' of the regular visitor down to the makeshift lean-to's of the sportsman. Camping Parties of ladies and gentlemen are frequently organized, and, with good guides, a cook, and efficient equipments, afford a very pleasant variation of ordinary summer pleasures. Flies and mosquitoes are troublesome in June and July.

GUIDES are to be found at all the chief resorts, and the regular charge is $3 a day, which includes the use of their boats and cooking and table ware. Their keep is also paid by the traveller. When a guide is dismissed at a distance from his home, he expects the full daily fee and allowance for food on his return-journey. For short trips one guide and boat can take two persons, but for longer expeditions there should be a guide to each traveller. The boats are small and light, so that they are easily transported over the 'carries' between the lakes on the guide's shoulders. When horses are used for the carries the employer pays for the transportation. Nothing but small hand-baggage can be taken in the boats. The Adirondack Guides' Association, organized in 1891, issues certificates and badges to its members. In the absence of a graduated tariff, the same fee is demanded for a short walk as for a severe day's work.

The HOTELS of the Adirondacks are generally comfortable, and some of the larger ones may even be termed luxurious. Prices vary greatly according to the style of the house and its situation.

EXPENSES. The expenses of a rapid tour through the Adirondacks are apt to be somewhat high, as the guide's fee ($ 3) and keep ($ 1-1/2) have to be added to the traveller's personal expenses ($3-5). Camping and sporting parties live, of course, much more cheaply than hotel-guests.

The information in the following pages will suffice for a rapid tour through the Adirondacks, but those who contemplate a prolonged stay or shooting and camping parties should procure the guidebook of S. R. Stoddard (with maps; price 25 c.), which contains details of routes, outfit, and supplies.

a. From Plattsburg to St. Regis, Tupper, and Saranac Lakes. Plattsburg (100 ft.; Fouquet Ho., Cumberland, Witherill, $2-3; *Rail. Restaurant, meals 75 c.), a small town with 7010 inhab., is pleasantly situated on the W. shore of Lake Champlain (comp. p. 186), at the mouth of the Saranac River. It is a convenient starting-point for excursions on the lake, and it is the junction of branch-railways to Ausable and Saranac Lake. It is 12 hrs. from New York by express-train (comp. R. 20b).

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FROM PLATTSBURG TO AUSABLE, 20 M., railway in 11/2 hr. (fare $1). The line runs to the S.W. through the valley of the Little Ausable. From (20 M.) Ausable coaches run to Wilmington ($ 1) and Lake Placid ($ 21⁄2).

FROM PLATTSBURG TO SARANAC LAKE, 73 M., Chateaugay Railroad in 41/4 hrs. (fare $3.35). - From New York to Saranac Lake in 16 hrs. (fare $11.75).

The train passes the U. S. Barracks and runs to the W. through the valley of the Saranac. It crosses the river before and after (12 M.) Cadyville and then ascends to the right, leaving the river.

Beyond (17 M.) Dannemora (1810 ft.), with Clinton Prison, we make a wide sweep to the left, round Johnson Mt. To the left is Lyon Mt. (3810 ft.). - 28 M. Chazy Station (1500 ft.; Chazy Lake Ho., $21/2, boat from station 50 c.), at the S. end of Chazy Lake (4 M. long, 1 M. wide; trout-fishing).

From (34 M.) Lyon Mountain, an iron-mining village, coaches run to (31/2 M.) Ralph's ($ 3 a day; fare 50 c.) and (41/4 M.) Merrill's ($3; fare 50 c.), on the E. side of Upper Chateaugay Lake (4 M. to 1 M.). A small steamer plies on the Chateaugay Lakes and a coach runs from the N. end of the Lower Lake (31⁄2 M. × 3⁄4 M.) to (6 M.) Chateaugay Station, on the Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain R.R. The railway now bends to the S. (left), affording a good view of Chateaugay Lake to the right. 54 M. Loon Lake Station, at the N. end of Loon Lake (2 M. long), connects by stage (50 c.) with (21/2 M.) Loon Lake House ($31/2-5), at the S. end. To the right are Loon Lake Mt. and Long Pond. At (61 M.) Rainbow we see Rainbow Lake (p. 179) to the right. 66 M. Bloomingdale is the station for Paul Smith's, 7 M. to the W. (sandy, uninteresting road; stage $1; see below). -73 M. Saranac Lake (see p. 169).

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The St. Regis Lake House, known as Paul (properly Apollos) Smith's, a hotel (500 beds; $4-5 a day, $21-30 a week) on the N. bank of the Lower St. Regis Lake (1620 ft.; 2 M. × 1 M.), is one of the most fashionable resorts in the district and may be made the starting-point for a guide-boat tour of the N. Adirondack lakes. It is only 4 M. from Paul Smith's on the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. (see p. 179). Both the St. Regis Lakes are surrounded by numerous camps, and good fishing and shooting are obtained in the neighbourhood.

The following *ROUND TRIP is frequently made from Paul Smith's, and affords an excellent idea both of the attractions of the Adirondacks and of the ordinary methods of travelling.

The circuit is about 40-45 M., and 3 days should be allowed for it, though more may profitably be spent, especially if any digressions are made. Those who make the round trip quickly should engage their guide and boats for the whole journey; others may hire from place to place (comp. p. 167). The guides should be expressly instructed to go by the distinctly preferable 'Seven Carry Route', as otherwise they will select the 'Big Clear Route', on which two horse-carries ($1 and $12) save them some work and add to the tourist's expenses. If desired, heavy baggage may be sent to Saranac Village by railway.

Leaving Paul Smith's, we cross the Lower St. Regis Lake by boat (1/2 M.); row or 'carry' to (34 M.) Spitfire Pond; cross this pond (1/2 M.), and row or carry to the (1/2 M.) Upper St. Regis Lake (1625 ft.), which we cross to (2 M.) its S. end. To the W. rises St. Regis Mt. (2890 ft.).

Here begins the carry to (11/2 M.; fee for horse $1) Clear Lake ('Big Clear'), a pretty little lake, well stocked with fish, on the N. bank of which stands the Big Clear Pond Hotel ($3; well spoken of). Clear Lake is 2 M. long, and a carry of 4 M. leads from its S. end to Saranac Inn (horse for boat $11/2; seat in a carriage 50 c.).

On the Seven Carry Route we traverse six short carries and six small ponds and reach (3 M.) Little Clear Pond, which is 1 M. long and 2 M. from Saranac Inn (9 M. from Paul Smith's). In either case we cross the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R.

*Saranac Inn ($4; telegraph-office) lies at the N. end of Upper Saranac Lake, 13/4 M. from Saranac Inn Station on the Adirondack and St. Lawrence R.R. (see p. 179).

*Upper Saranac Lake (1575 ft.), 71/2 M. long and 1/2-3 M. wide, is one of the largest sheets of water in the district. It is dotted with islands and surrounded by thickly wooded and hilly banks. Good fishing and shooting. A small steamer plies on the lake (fare 75 c., round-trip $1), calling at the Sweeny Carry (Wawbeek Lodge, $312, with tel. office), on the W. bank, Indian Carry (Rustic Lodge, $2), at the S. end, and Bartlett's or the Saranac Club, on the E. side.

Wawbeek Lodge is 8 M. to the E. (stage $ 11/2) of Tupper Lake Village, on the N. Adirondack R.R. (see p. 179). The Sweeny Carry (3 M.; horse for boat $112, seat in buckboard 75 c.) leads to Raquette River (Tromblee's Inn), which may be ascended, with the help of a horse-carry ($ 11/2, seat in carr. 50 c.) round the Raquette Falls (Raquette Falls Hotel), to (ca. 20 M.) the N. end of Long Lake (p. 178). Or we may descend the river to (11 M.) Tupper Lake (p. 179).

Indian Carry crosses to (1 M.) the Stony Creek Ponds (1640 ft.; Hiawatha Hotel) and to (3 M.) the Raquette River (about 8 M. from Tromblee's).

A short carry from the landing for Bartlett's (1/4 M.; horse, unnecessary, 50 c.) leads to the stream flowing into the (1/2 M.) Middle Saranac Lake, more often called Round Lake (1545 ft.), a nearly circular sheet of water, 21/2 M. in diameter. This little lake is sometimes lashed by violent squalls coming down from the hills, and it is advisable to keep an eye on the weather. To the S.E. rises Ampersand Mt. (3430 ft.; *View), the trail to the top of which (ca 21/2 M.) leads through the woods and is not easy to follow without a guide. At the N.E. corner of Round Lake we enter its pretty outlet, descending to (21/2 M.) the lower lake and passing about halfway a series of rapids, where a short carry is necessary.

*Lower Saranac Lake (1540 ft.), 5 M. long and 3/4-11/4 M. wide, is one of the prettiest of the Adirondack lakes, surrounded by wooded hills and thickly sprinkled with islands, said to number fifty-two. Near the lower (N.E.) end of the lake lies Saranac Lake Village, the terminus of the Chateaugay R. R. (p. 167), and one of the chief centres of the district for hotels, guides, and outfits.

The Ampersand Hotel ($ 3-5) is pleasantly situated on high ground on the N. bank of the lake. The Saranac Lake House (Miller's; $ 3-4) lies close to the S. shore of the lake, 11/2 M. from the railway-station (omn. 50 c.). The Algonquin ($ 3-4) is a little farther to the W. (omn. from station 50 c.). Smaller hotels, in the village, are Martin's ($ 21/2), the *Berkeley ($21/2), and the Adirondack ($2). The Adirondack Sanitarium (for consumptives) lies 1 M. to the N.E. H. H. Miner, taxidermist, near the Saranac Lake House, has excellent stuffed specimens of the fauna of the Adirondacks.

Saranac Lake is 10 M. by road (coach $ 11/4) from Lake Placid (see p. 171). The road turns to the right in the village, at the Adirondack Ho., 112 M.

from the lake, and passes (21/2 M.) the Ray Brook House ($ 3). At (3 M.) the fork the left branch leads to (3 M.) Lake Placid, the right to (5 M.) North Elba (p. 171).

We may now return to Paul Smith's by railway (see p. 179).

b. From Port Kent to Ausable Chasm and Lake Placid. Port Kent lies on the W. shore of Lake Champlain (see p. 186), nearly opposite Burlington (p. 114; steamer), and within 11 hrs. by railway of New York (comp. R. 20b; fare $7.80).

A short branch - railway runs in 20 min. from Port Kent to (21/2 M.) Ausable Chasm (*Lake View House, finely situated, $3) and to (6 M.) Keeseville.

The **Ausable Chasm is, perhaps, the most wonderful piece of rock-formation to the W. of the Rockies, and should not be omitted by any traveller who comes within a reasonable distance of it. The Ausable River, a large and rapid stream, here flows through a rocky gorge only 20-40 ft. wide, between perpendicular walls of Potsdam sandstone, 100-175 ft. high. Waterfalls and rapids add to the attractions. A visit to the chasm has been facilitated by paths and bridges; and the boat-ride through the rapids affords a novel and exciting but perfectly safe experience. Numerous interesting fossils (lingula antiqua, trilobites) have been found here.

The ENTRANCE to the chasm (adm. 50 c., boat-ride 50 c.) is a little to the N. of the *Trestle Bridge, a few minutes from the Lake View House. At the head of the chasm (to the left) are the *Rainbow or Birmingham Falls, 70 ft. high, while near the point where we enter are the lower Horseshoe Falls. Following the path to the right over the ledges (smooth as if made artificially), we round the Elbow, beyond which, across the stream, rises the Pulpit Rock (135 ft.). Below the Split Rock (1.) we cross the stream. Farther on more or less appropriate names are attached to the various phenomena, such as the Devil's Oven (r.), Hell Gate, Jacob's Ladder (r.), the Devil's Punch-Bowl (1.), Jacob's Well (1.), Mystic Gorge (1.), Shady Gorge (r.), the Long Gallery, Point of Rocks (1.), Hyde's Cave (r.), Column Rocks (r.), and the Post Office (1.; so-named for very obvious reasons). We are now in the Upper Flume, at the lower end of which we cross to the flat Table Rock, where the boat-ride begins and where . many visitors turn back. Here, to the right, tower the Cathedral Rocks and the Sentinel, 100 ft. high. The boat at first passes through the *Grand Flume, the rocky sides of which are 175 ft. high, while at one place the river is 60 ft. deep and only 12 ft. wide. Emerging from the Flume, we pass through a quiet pool and enter the Rapids, through which we sweep swiftly to the landing-place at the foot of the chasm. We may now either walk or drive back to the (11/2 M.) hotel.

COACHES run daily in summer from the Lake View House to (32 M.) Lake Placid (p. 171; fare $4), viâ (312 M.) Keeseville, (13 M.) Ausable Station (p. 167), and (21 M.) Wilmington (p. 172).

c. From Westport to Elizabethtown, Keene Valley, and Lake Placid.

Adirondack Lodge. Indian Pass.

Westport (Westport Inn, overlooking the steamboat-wharf, $21/2-3; Gibbs Ho., $2; Pleasant View Ho., at the rail. station, $2,

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