Page images
PDF
EPUB

congress that met here formed a plan of union that made possible the concerted action of the Colonies a little later; and in more recent times the little knot of Albany politicians has practically determined the nomination and election of several Presidents of the United States. The 'Albany Regency' was the name given by Thurlow Weed to a powerful junto of Democratic politicians here in 1824-37, including Martin van Buren. Bret Harte was born at Albany in 1839.

The Railway Stations (Pl. D, 4) are both close to Broadway, the chief commercial thoroughfare, running nearly parallel with the Hudson. A little to the S., at the corner of State St., stands the Post Office (Pl. D, 5).

*STATE STREET, 150 ft. wide, ascends directly from the river to the (1/4 M.) Capitol (see below), crossing Pearl St. (N. and S.), which runs parallel with Broadway and contains the best shops. To the right, at the corner of James St., is the Mechanics' and Farmers' Bank, with an inscription stating that it occupies the site of the house of Anneke Jans, whose heirs made such valiant and long-continued efforts to recover from Trinity Church (p. 27) the old family property in New York. On the same side, just below N. Pearl St., is the New York State National Bank, bearing an inscription to the effect that it is the oldest bank-building continuously used as such in the United States (since 1803).

The chief buildings in N. Pearl Street (Pl. D, 4) are the Young Men's Christian Association and the Kenmore Hotel (both to the left, i.e. W. side). A house at the corner of Columbia St., built of Dutch bricks and dated 1710, is the oldest in Albany.

S. Pearl St. ends at (21/4 M.) Norman's Kill. Schuyler St., 3/4 M. from State St., runs to the right from S. Pearl St. to the interesting old * Schuyler Mansion (Pl. C, 6), now a R. C. asylum, built for Gen. Philip Schuyler in 1760-61. Alex. Hamilton was here married to Elizabeth Schuyler in 1780, and a dent in the old staircase is said to have been made by the tomahawk of one of a party of Indians who tried to carry off Gen. Schuyler in 1781. Gen. Burgoyne was entertained here with his staff after his capture at Saratoga. Washington, Franklin, Carroll of Carrollton, etc., were also guests of this house, and Pres. Millard Fillmore was married here.

A little farther up State St., to the left, is the State Museum of Natural History (Pl. C, 4; daily, 9-6), containing zoological, botanical, mineral, and agricultural collections, mainly illustrative of the State of New York. Opposite stands St. Peter's Episcopal Church (Pl. C, 3).

The Capitol (Pl. C, 4), commandingly situated at the top of State St. hill, with a small park in front of it, is a huge structure in the French Renaissance style, built in the form of a quadrangle, 300 ft. wide and 400 ft. deep, with a central tower (to be 300 ft. high) and Louvres towers at the angles. The central court is 137 ft. long and 92 ft. wide; above the dormer windows are the arms of the Stuyvesant, Schuyler, Livingston, Jay, Clinton, and Tompkins families. The building is one of the largest in the United States and covers an area of three acres (comp. p. 253). It is built of a light-coloured granite, which contrasts pleasantly with the red-tiled roofs. It was begun in 1869, and is only now approaching completion, though it has been partly occupied for some time. Its total cost, when complete, is estimated at $25,000,000. The original design was by Tho

mas Fuller, but this has been considerably modified in construction. 'If anyone had come up to me and told me in French, old or new, that the new Capitol was 'le château de Monseigneur le duc d'Albanie', I could almost have believed him' (Prof. E. A. Freeman). Interior (guidebooks and photographs for sale at stall inside N. entrance; guides obtainable on application at the Superintendent's Office).

The GROUND-FLOOR, which is occupied by offices and committee-rooms, is connected with the upper floors by elevators and by two handsome staircases. The Assembly Staircase, on the N. side, built of brown freestone, is fine but ill-lighted and somewhat gloomy. It leads to the Golden Corridor (140 ft. long, 20 ft. wide, and 25 ft. high), extending along the courtside of the N. wing. The Senate Staircase, in the S.E. part of the building, is of warm red sandstone, with round and pointed arches and much fine tracery and decoration.

The FIRST FLOOR is also mainly occupied by offices. In the S.E. corner is the Governor's Room or Executive Chamber (80 ft. x 40 ft.), with mahogany wainscoting and ceiling and hangings of Spanish leather. The elaborate coloured marble decorations of the S. Corridors are very effective. Near the E. end of the N. side (below the Assembly Chamber) is the Old Court of Appeals (now containing the valuable *State Library of 150,000 vols.), opening off the Golden Corridor (see above).

SECOND FLOOR. The Assembly Chamber (towards E. end of N. side), 140 ft. long and 84 ft. wide (including the galleries), is a fine example of a civic Gothic interior. It is covered by the largest groined arch in the world (56 ft. high), supported by four massive columns of red granite. The N. and S. walls were decorated with two monumental frescoes by Wm. M. Hunt, but these, as well as the arched roof itself, are concealed by a wooden ceiling, added to improve the acoustics of the chamber. Visitors admitted to the galleries when the house is in session. The Court of Appeals, at the E. end of the S. side, is a fine room (53 ft. long and 35 ft. wide), adorned with red oak, marble, and Mexican onyx. Next to it is the *Senate Chamber, one of the most sumptuous legislative halls in the world, the elaborate design of which is due to Mr. H. H. Richardson (p. xci). It is 100 ft. long, 60 ft. wide, and 50 ft. high (including lobbies and galleries). Among the chief decorative features are the oaken ceiling, the panelling of Mexican onyx and Tennessee marble, the gilded frieze, the open fireplaces, the chandeliers, and the stained-glass windows. The galleries are supported by arches of yellow Siena marble, borne by dark-red granite columns. 'When I say that the arches in the Senate Chamber seemed to me, as far as their general conception goes, worthy to stand at Ragusa, some will understand that I can say no more' (Freeman). The Lieut. Governor's Room is entered from the W. lobby of the Senate Chamber.

Third or Gallery Floor (reached by elevator or small staircase). On the N. side are Committee Rooms and entrances to the Galleries of the Assembly Room. On the S. side are Committee Rooms, the entrances to the Senate Galleries, and the Bureau of Military Statistics (W. end; open 9-5), with a collection of State flags used in the Civil War, photographs, memorials of Lincoln, and other relics.

To the N.E. of the Capitol Park, at the corner of Eagle St. and Maiden Lane, is the "City Hall (Pl. C, 4), a striking and beautiful building by H. H. Richardson (1881-83), in a free S. French Gothic style, with a fine tower. It is adjoined on the N. by the State Hall, to which the collections of the Natural History Museum (p. 155) are to be removed. Opposite are the Academy Park and the Albany Academy (for boys), where Joseph Henry first demonstrated the theory of the magnetic telegraph by ringing a bell by electricity transmitted through a mile of wire strung round the room.

By following Eagle Street towards the S. we reach the Albany Medical College (good museum) and, at the corner of Madison Ave., the R. C. Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, a large Gothic building, with spires 210 ft. high. The elaborate interior is lighted by numerous stained-glass windows. A little farther on, below Elm St., is the Governor's Mansion.

To the W. of the Capitol State St. is continued (street-cars) to (1/2 M.) Washington Park (Pl. A, B, 3, 4), which, though not very large (811/4 acres), is beautifully laid out (views of Catskills and Helderbergs). It contains a small lake. In Willett St., on the E. side of the park, is the State Normal College (Pl. B, 4), an imposing building.

In WASHINGTON AVENUE (Pl. B, C, 3, 4), is the handsome new Harmanus Bleeker Hall, for public meetings, concerts, etc. Adjoining, at the corner of Lark St., is the State Armoury (Pl. B, 3), with its great round arches.

In S. Swan St., a little to the N. of Washington Ave. and only a few minutes' walk from the Capitol, is the new Episcopal *Cathedral of All Saints (Pl. C, 4), the first regularly organised Protestant cathedral erected in the United States.

In its present condition the building dates from 1884-87; but the towers, the transepts, and the courses above the triforium (at present replaced by a temporary wooden roof) have still to be added. With its noble proportions (length 270 ft.) and tasteful details, it promises to be one of the most beautiful churches in America. Its style is English Gothic. The architect is Mr. R. W. Gibson.

Following Broadway (see p. 155; electric tramway) towards the N. from the railway-stations we reach, on the right, near the corner of Manor St., the (34 M.) Van Rensselaer Mansion Pl. E, 2), the former residence of the Patroon (p. 154), erected in 1765, but now dilapidated and neglected. It has a pseudo-classical porch, and the paper in the front hall was imported from Holland. Opposite rises the hill crowned with the Dudley Observatory (200 ft.; Pl. D, 2), a well-equipped and well-endowed institution, which has done good astronomical work (visitors admitted on Tues. evening, on previous written application to the Director). A fine view is obtained from the Observatory Hill, including the vast lumber-yards adjoining the river. The Observatory is soon to be removed to a new building in Lake Ave., near Washington Park.

We may go on from here by electric car (5 c.) to (20 min.) the Rural Cemetery and (1/2 hr.) West Troy (p. 143). Visitors to the *Rural Cemetery have 1/2 M. to walk (to the left) after leaving the car, when they reach the tasteful lodge of the cemetery to the right and the gate of the St. Agnes R. C. Cemetery to the left. The chief lion of the Rural Cemetery is the figure of the *Angel at the Sepulchre, by E. D. Palmer, to reach which we turn to the left at the lodge and follow, as nearly as possible, the railing of the St. Agnes Cemetery, until we reach the top of the S. Ridge (Views). Close by is the tomb of Gen. Schuyler (p. 155) and a little to the N. is that of President Arthur.

Among the other buildings of Albany may be mentioned St. Joseph's Church (R. C.), at the corner of Ten Broeck St. and Second St.; the Child's Hospital; the Penitentiary; the County Hospital; and the Alms Houses.

The old Vanderheyden Palace (1725), mentioned in 'Bracebridge Hall', stood near 'Elm Tree Corner' (cor. of State St. and Pearl St.), on a sit

now occupied by the Perry Building; and at the N.E. corner af State and Pearl St. was the quaint Lydius House.

Among points of interest within easy reach of Albany, besides the Hudson River places of R. 21, are Saratoga (p. 179), the Catskills (p. 159), the Adirondacks (p. 165), Howe's Cave (see below), Sharon Springs (see below), Cooperstown (see below), and Lake George (p. 182). Shakers, 7 M. to the N.W., was the original Shaker settlement in America (1774) and is the burial-place of Mother Ann Lee (d. 1784).

23. From Albany to Binghamton.

142 M. DELAWARE AND HUDSON RAILROAD in 43/4-5/4 hrs. (fare $ 4.25). The line ascends towards the W. 7 M. Voorheesville (p. 195). To the left are the Helderberg Mts., whence the Helderberg limestone formations are named. At (27 M.) Quaker Street, where the line from Mechanicsville and Saratoga joins ours, we see to the right the singular trestle-work of the Dodge Coal Storage Apparatus.

39 M. Howe's Cave (780 ft.; *Pavilion Hotel, $1/2) is the station for one of the most remarkable caverns in America.

*Howe's Cave, an old underground water channel, in the Lower Helderberg limestone, is entered from the Pavilion Hotel (adm. $1, incl. guide and dress; time of visit 3-4 hrs.) and is named from its discoverer Lester Howe (1842). The stalactite and stalagmite formations are often very beautiful, and appropriate names have been given to the chief points of interest, which include the 'Stygian Lake', crossed by boat. Visitors are conducted to a point about 3 M. from the entrance, but the cave extends several miles farther.

45 M. Cobleskill (Hotel Augusta) is the junction of a branchline to (13 M.) Sharon Springs and (22 M.) Cherry Valley.

Sharon Springs (Pavilion, finely situated, $32; Union, $3; Sharon House, $21/2-3; American, Mansion Ho., Fethers, Howland, Vanderbilt, $2), charmingly situated in a pretty little wooded valley, 1350 ft. above the sea, has frequented sulphur and chalybeate springs, chiefly used for bathing. Just below the Baths, at the old bridge to the N., the stream forms a pretty waterfall, 60 ft. high. The piazza at the back of the Pavilion Hotel commands an extensive View over the Mohawk Valley (p. 186), with the Adirondacks in the background. The view from *Prospect Hill, 31/2 M. to the N.W., on the road to Cherry Valley, is still finer.

22 M. Cherry Valley (1320 ft.), another little summer-resort, with hotels and boarding-houses. In 1778 the inhabitants were all massacred or taken prisoner by the Tories and Indians. A pleasant drive may be taken to (14 M.) Richfield Springs (p. 188; stage).

75 M. Cooperstown

50 M. Richmondville; 67 M. Schenevus. Junction, for a short line to (16 M.) Cooperstown.

Cooperstown (1240 ft.; *Fenimore Ho., $2-3; Central, Carr's, Ballard's, $2), a village of 2657 inhab., prettily situated at the lower (S.) end of Otsego Lake, was founded in 1798 by Wm. Cooper, father of J. Fenimore Cooper (1789-1851), the novelist, who lived and died here and immor talized the district in his romances. *Otsego Lake (the 'Glimmerglass' of Cooper), 9 M. long and 3/4-1/2 M. wide, is one of the prettiest of the New York lakes. The Susquehanna issues from it at the foot of. Main St. To reach the site of the old Cooper Mansion, where the novelist lived from 1834 to his death in 1851, we descend Main St. and turn to the right at Fair St. (first cross-street beyond Ballard's Hotel). It is marked by a stone with an inscription. Cooper is buried in the Episcopal graveyard, reached by turning to the left beyond the site of the house.

Two small steamers ply regularly on Otsego Lake, connecting at the

« PreviousContinue »