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Greenfield (see p. 134) intersects the Fitchburg R. R. Beyond (179 M.) Bernardston the Connecticut again comes into sight on the right, and this part of the valley is very picturesque. Tobacco and maize are cultivated. At (186 M.) South Vernon, the junction of a line to Concord (p. 116), we pass on to the Central Vermont R. R.

196 M. Brattleboro (Brooks Ho., $21/4-3; American Ho., $2), a large village with (1890) 5467 inhab., charmingly situated on the W. bank of the Connecticut, is the centre of the maple-sugar industry of Vermont. The Estey Organ Works here turn out 20,000 organs yearly. In the Cemetery (view) is an elaborate monument to the notorious Jim Fisk (1835-72). - 220 M. Bellows Falls, see p. 114.

We now cross to the E. bank of the river and leave Vermont for New Hampshire. Beyond (238 M.) Claremont Junction (line to Concord, see p. 116) we cross the deep gorge of the Sugar River by a bridge 105 ft. high. We recross the Connecticut River to (246 M.) Windsor (Windsor Ho., $2), the station for an ascent of *Mt. Ascutney (3320 ft.; Rfmt. Ho., at the top; *View).

260 M. White River Junction (Rail. Rest.), see p. 117. The shortest route to Montreal diverges to the left here and runs viâ Montpelier and St. Albans (see R. 15b). Trains for Quebec and Montreal via Sherbrooke continue to follow the Connecticut Valley to Wells River (see below). The next station on the latter route is (265 M.) Norwich, whence omnibuses run to Hanover (The Wheelock, $2), 3/4 M. to the S.E., the seat of Dartmouth College (400450 students), the alma mater of Daniel Webster, George Ticknor (author of a History of Spanish Literature), G. P. Marsh (the philologist), Rufus Choate, and Chief-Justice Chase. The College Park is pretty and its Art Gallery contains some interesting portraits.

The train crosses the Ompompanoo suc. 296 M. Newbury, a pretty village in the Ox Bow 'intervales' of the Connecticut.

300 M. Wells River Junction (Rail. Rest.), see p. 119. Route hence to Montreal and Quebec, see R. 15 c.

b. Via Albany (or Troy), Saratoga, and Lake Champlain.

384 M. NEW YORK CENTRAL & HUDSON RIVER RAILROAD to (142 M.) Albany in 23/4-43/4 hrs.; DELAWARE & HUDSON RAILROAD thence to (242 M.) Montreal in 8-10 hrs. (through-express in 11/2 hrs.; through- fare $10, parlor-car $2, sleeper $2; seats to the left).

This is the shortest and most direct route from New York to Montreal, Lake George, and Lake Champlain. Those who have not seen the Hudson should go by STEAMER to Albany (see R. 146); and they may also leave the train for the steamer on Lakes George and Champlain.

From New York to (143 M.) Albany, see R. 21. Beyond Albany we follow the tracks of the Delaware and Hudson Railway, which traverses a very interesting district, skirting Lake George (p. 182), Lake Champlain (p. 184), and the Adirondack Mts. (p. 165). — The line passes the Rural Cemetery and reaches (149 M.) West Troy, with a large United States Arsenal, situated on the Hudson, opposite Troy (p. 145). 152 M. Cohoes (Harmony, $2-21, 2), a prosperous

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manufacturing city with (1890) 22,509 inhab., situated at the *Falls of the Mohawk River (75 ft. high, 900 ft. wide), which the train crosses here by a long bridge (view of falls to the left). — 154 M. Waterford. At (155 M.) Albany Junction the Albany division unites with the main line coming from (6 M.) Troy. At (159 M.) Mechanicsville, where the Fitchburg Railroad joins ours (see p. 135), we turn to the N.W. (left) and quit the Hudson. 166 M. Round Lake (Wentworth, $21/2), with a well-known Methodist camp-meeting ground and summer-schools (lake to the right). 173 M. Ballston Spa (The Lincoln), with mineral springs, now little visited, is the junction of a line to Binghamton (see p. 197).

180 M. Saratoga Springs (Rail. Restaurant), see p. 179.

Beyond Saratoga the train runs to the N.E. and crosses the Hudson at (197 M.) Fort Edward (St. James, $ 2), where, however, all traces of the fort, built in 1755, have disappeared. Passengers for the Lake George steamer diverge here (see below).

FROM FORT EDWARD TO CALDWELL, 16 M., railway in 3/4-1 hr. The railway ascends the Hudson, which here makes numerous falls. 6 M. Glens Falls (700 ft.; Rockwell Ho., $3; American Ho., $2), an industrial city with (1890) 9509 inhab., where the Hudson forms a picturesque *Fall of 50-60 ft. The island below the fall is the scene of some well-known incidents in Cooper's 'Last of the Mohicans'. Beyond Glens Falls the train descends rapidly through a wooded defile, affording fine views of lake and mountain. To the left, 2 M. from Caldwell, is the Williams Rock, a boulder marking the spot where Col. Ephraim Williams was killed and his 1200 men were defeated by the French and Indian army of Dieskau, which was in turn defeated, also with the loss of its commander, by Sir William Johnson (Sept. 8th, 1755). Hard by is the Bloody Pond, into which the dead bodies were thrown. 16 M. Caldwell (400 ft.), see p.183.

Beyond Fort Edward our train leaves the Hudson and descends the valley of Wood Creek. 209 M. Fort Ann, the site of a fort of 1757, near which Gen. Putnam was defeated and captured by the French and Indians in 1750. 219 M. Whitehall (Hall Ho., $2), the junction of a line to Rutland (p. 114), is a lumbering village of (1890) 4434 inhab., situated at the foot of Mt. Skene and at the S. extremity of Lake Champlain (p. 184).

The train crosses the South Bay and follows the W. bank of Lake Champlain, which is at first more like a river than a lake.

241 M. Fort Ticonderoga (see p. 185), at the foot of Mt. Defiance (800 ft.), is the junction of a line to (5 M.) Baldwin, on Lake George (see p. 184), and the starting-point of the steamer on Lake Champlain to Plattsburg, etc. (see p. 185). The train threads a tunnel. 243 M. Addison Junction, for a line to Leicester and Rutland (p. 114); 250 M. Crown Point (p. 185); 259 M. Port Henry (p. 185). The Adirondack Mts. now rise prominently to the left. From (270 M.) Westport (p. 170) coaches run to Elizabethtown, Keene Valley, and Lake Placid (see p. 171). The train passes behind Split Rock Mt. (right) and emerges on the wider part of Lake Champlain (views). The rocks to the left rise precipitously. 283 M. Willsborough. 296 M. Port Kent (p. 186), the

junction of a line to (3 M.) Ausable Chasm (p. 170) and Keeseville. 306 M. Hotel Champlain and Bluff Point (see p. 186).

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309 M. Plattsburg (p. 167; Rail. Restaurant) is the junction of lines to Saranac Lake (p. 167) and Ausable (p. 167). Our line now leaves Lake Champlain and traverses a somewhat monotonous district. 319 M. West Chazy is the junction of an alternative route to Montreal. 334 M. Rouse's Point (Windsor, $3), at the N. end of Lake Champlain, is the frontier-station. We then descend along

the left bank of the Richelieu to (357 M.) St. John's. Hence to 384 M. Montreal, see Baedeker's Canada.

c. Via Troy, Rutland, and Burlington.

400 M. NEW YORK CENTRAL & HUDSON RIVER RAILROAD to (148 M.) Troy in 414-5 hrs.; FITCHBURG R. R. thence to (30 M.) White Creek, in 1 hr.; N. BENNINGTON & RUTLAND R. R. thence to (54 M.) Rutland in 2 hrs.; CENTRAL VERMONT R. R. thence to (168 M.) Montreal in 51/2-6 hrs. (through-trains in 14 hrs.; fares as above). This line is the direct route from New York to Burlington (p. 115) and the Green Mts. (p. 117).

From New York to (142 M.) Greenbush, see R. 21b.

148 M. Troy (Troy Ho., $3; American Ho., Revere Ho., Mansion Ho., $2-21/2), a busy industrial city of (1890) 60,956 inhab., at the head of the steam-navigation of the Hudson. Its chief products are iron, Bessemer steel, railway rolling-stock, cotton and woollen goods, collars and shirts. Some of its charitable and other public buildings are handsome. Its laundries are famous.

Troy is an important railway-centre, lines diverging in all directions (New York; Burlington and Montreal; Boston viâ the Hoosac Tunnel, etc.). The main line of the Del. and Hudson R. R. begins here and unites with the Albany division at Albany Junction (p. 144).

Our train turns to the right (N.E.) and runs over the Fitchburg R. R. to (180 M.) N. Bennington. We then run towards the N., with the Green Mts. at some distance to the right. 201 M. Manchester (Equinox Ho, $4), a summer-resort at the base of Mt. Equinox (3847 ft.), the *View from which includes the Catskills, the Berkshire Hills, Lake George, and Lake Champlain.

232 M. Rutland (Rail. Restaurant), and thence to

400 M. Montreal, see R. 15a.

d. Via Herkimer and Malone.

474 M. NEW YORK CENTRAL & HUDSON RIVER RAILROAD to (224 M.) Herkimer in 6 hrs.; ADIRONDACK & ST. LAWRENCE RAILWAY thence to (173 M.) Malone in 6 hrs.; CENTRAL VERMONT RAILROAD thence to (40 M.) Coteau Junction in 1 hr.; GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY thence to (37 M.) Montreal in 1 hr. (through-express in 13 hrs.; fares as in R. 20b). This new route, opened in 1893, crosses the Adirondacks (comp. p. 178), and forms the most convenient approach to many points in that district.

From New York to (224 M.) Herkimer, see R. 28; from Herkimer to (397 M.) Malone, see R. 25e. The train then turns to the E. (right) and follows the Central Vermont R. R. (from Ogdensburg to Rouse's Point; comp. p. 188) to (437 M.) Coteau Junction. Thence to

474 M. Montreal, see Baedeker's Canada.

BAEDEKER'S United States.

10

21. From New York to Albany.
a. By Steamer.

144 M. The finely-equipped steamers of the Hudson River Line ('Albany Day Line') leave New York every morning (except Sun.) in summer (May-Oct.) from Vestry Pier at 8.40 and 22nd St. (N. R.) at 9 a.m., and reach Albany about 6 p.m., calling at seven or eight intermediate points (fare $2, return-fare $31/2). The largest steamer of this line is 311 ft. long and has a speed of 25 M. an hour. The People's Line Steamers leave Pier 41 (foot of Canal St.) every week-day at 6 p.m., reaching Albany at 6 a.m. next day and making no intermediate stops (fare $11/2, return $21/2, berth 50 c.). The Citizen's Line Steamers leave Pier 46 daily, except Sat., at 6 p.m. and reach Troy about 6 a.m., calling at Albany on Sun. only (fare $112, return $21/2, berth 50 c.). The 'Mary Powell' plies every afternoon from the foot of Desbrosses St. to (95 M.) Rondout and Kingston (6 hrs.; fare $1, return-fare $112).

Those who wish to see the beauties of the Hudson should, of course, select the 'Day Line'; but the night-boats afford a comfortable and easy mode of travel. Good restaurants on board all the steamers (meals à la carte). Through railway-tickets to Albany by the N. Y. C. R. R. or the West Shore R. R. are available on the Day Line steamer, and vice versa.

The River Hudson rises in the Adirondack Mts., 4000 ft. above the sea (comp. p. 166), and flows into the Atlantic Ocean at New York after a nearly due S. course of 300 M. Its chief tributary is the Mohawk, which joins it on the W., a little above Troy. The mountains of the Hudson are part of the Appalachian system, the Highlands (see p. 148) being a continuation of the Blue Ridge. The Hudson has sometimes been called the American Rhine', but this title perhaps does injustice to both rivers. The Hudson throughout a great part of its course is three or four times as wide as the Rhine, and its scenery is grander and more imposing; while, though it lacks the ruined castles and ancient towns of the German river, it is by no means devoid of historical associations of a .more recent character. The vine-clad slopes of the Rhine have, too, no ineffective substitute in the brilliant autumn-colouring of the timbered hillsides of the Hudson. The E. bank, for many miles above New York, is sprinkled with handsome country-houses. The effect of the tide is perceptible as far as Troy, and the river is navigable for large steamers for 150 M. Sailing-vessels and yachts are abundant in the lower part of its course, while numerous 'tows' of coal-barges, grain-barges, and lumberrafts are also encountered. Beyond the influence of salt water the Hudson freezes solid in winter, affording an ample harvest to the ice-cutter and a magnificent field for the exciting sport of ice-boat sailing. Its name is derived from Henry Hudson, a British navigator in the Dutch service, who in 1609 ascended the river in the 'Half Moon' as far as Albany, in search of a water-passage across the Continent. According to Ruttenber ('Indian Tribes of the Hudson River') the E. bank of the Hudson and part of the W. bank were occupied by the Mohicans, while the W. bank below the · Catskills belonged to the Lenni Lenapes (Delawares) and above Cohoes to the Mohawks (Iroquois). The first steamboat that plied regularly for passengers was the 'Clermont' of Robert Fulton, which ran between New York and Albany in 1807.

The Photo-Panorama of the Hudson, published by the Bryant Literary Union (Evening Post Building, New York; price $1), shows both sides of the river from Albany to New York, 'accurately represented from 800 consecutive photographs'.

In the following description the terms right (R., r.) and left (L., 1.) are used with reference to persons ascending the river.

As the steamer starts from its dock, we enjoy a good view of New York Harbour to the S. On the right lies Manhattan Island, with the city of New York, while to the left, in the State of New Jersey, are Jersey City (p. 51), Hoboken (p. 51), and Weehawken

(p. 51). Among the most conspicuous points to the right are the spire of Trinity Church (p. 27), the dome of the 'World' Office (p. 29), the Post Office (p. 29), the Dakota Flats (p. 40), the Orphan Asylum (p. 48), Riverside Park (p. 48), the Convent of the Sacred Heart (p. 48), and Ottendorfer's Pavilion. To the left are Stevens Castle (p. 51), the Elysian Fields (p. 51), Union Hill Observatory, St. Michael's Observatory, the West Shore Railroad Station (p. 6), the Guttenberg Brewery (p. 51), and Pleasant Valley. Near the end of Manhattan Island, 10-11 M. from the Battery, we pass between Fort Lee (p. 51), with its hotel, on the left, and the site of Fort Washington, captured by the British on Nov. 15th, 1776, on the right. At Fort Lee begin the *Palisades, an extraordinary ridge of columnar basaltic rocks, not unlike the Giant's Causeway, rising almost vertically to a height of 200-500 ft. and extending along the W. bank of the Hudson for about 15 M. The width of the mountains of which they form the E. escarpment is 1/2-1/2 M., and the W. slope is quite gentle. To the right (13 M.) is Spuyten Duyvil Creek (p. 150).

161/2 M. (r.) Mt. St. Vincent Convent, the buildings of which include Fonthill, formerly the home of Edwin Forrest, the actor. 17 M. (r.) Yonkers (p. 150), with the old Phillipse Manor House (recognisable by its square tower).

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21 M. (r.) Hastings (p. 150). Opposite is Indian Head (*View), the highest point of the Palisades. About 1/2 M. farther on (1.) is the boundary between New Jersey and New York, both banks henceforth belonging to the latter. 23 M. (r.) Dobbs Ferry (p. 150). 24 M. (r.) Irvington (p. 150). Sunnyside, Irving's house, 34 M. above, can scarcely be distinguished from the steamer. Opposite (1.) lies Piermont, with the long pier of the Erie Railroad. About 2 M. to the S. W. of Piermont is the old village of Tappan, where André was executed (Oct. 2nd, 1780). The Palisades here lose their wall-like character, and the Hudson expands into the lakelike expanse of the Tappan Zee, 10 M. long and 3-4 M. wide.

25 M. (r.) Lyndehurst (see p. 150), the residence of the late Mr. Jay Gould (d. 1892), loftily situated, with a tall tower.

27 M. (r.) Tarrytown (p. 150), whence a steam - ferry plies across the Tappan Zee to (3 M.) Nyack (Tappan Zee Ho., $4), a brisk little village, the terminus of the Northern Railroad of New Jersey. The Dutch Church in Sleepy Hollow (p. 150) may be distinguished about 3/4 M. above Tarrytown.

30-32 M. (1.) S. Hook Mt. (730 ft.) and N. Hook Mt. (610 ft.). Rockland lies just beyond the latter.

32 M. (r.) Sing-Sing (p. 151), with the low white-marble prison at the water's edge.

33 M. (r.) Estuary of Croton River and Croton Point (p.151). Opposite is Teller's Point, off which the 'Vulture' anchored when she brought André to visit Arnold (p. 148).

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