Page images
PDF
EPUB

summer-resort, with mineral springs, pleasantly situated above the 'intervales' of the Androscoggin.

Coaches (fares $21/2) run regularly from Bethel to (26 M.) Lakeside Hotel, at the S. end of Lake Umbagog (p. 106). The road leads through wild and picturesque scenery, ascending the valleys of the Androscoggin and Bear River and affording distant views of the White Mts.

Beyond Bethel we obtain numerous fine views of the White Mts. (p. 121; to the left), while the Androscoggin runs on the right. Near (86 M.) Shelburne (725 ft.), in New Hampshire, we have views of Mt. Madison and Mt. Moriah to the left and Mt. Hayes to the right. 91 M. Gorham (860 ft.; meal-station), see p. 125.

Beyond Gorham our train turns to the N.W. and ascends along the Androscoggin, affording a good view of Mt. Adams to the left, to (98 M.) Berlin Falls (Berlin Ho., $2; Wilson Ho., $ 11/2-2), where the river pours tumultuously through a narrow pass, descending 200 ft. within a mile. Coaches run hence to (22 M.) Errol Dam (Umbagog Ho., $2), whence steamers ascend the Androscoggin to (3 M.) Lake Umbagog (p. 106).

The train now leaves the Andro

scoggin, which turns to the N. Beyond (103 M.) Milan (view) we follow the Upper Ammonoosuc to (122 M.) Groveton (Melcher Ho., $2), the junction of the Concord & Montreal R. R. (to the White Mts. and Wells Junction; see p. 119). This is the starting-point for an ascent of the Percy Peaks (3150 ft. & 3335 ft.; 21/2-31/2 hrs.). The line now passes into the Connecticut Valley (to the right the white Percy Peaks). From (134 M.) North Stratford, where our line intersects the Maine Central R. R. (see p. 111), coaches run to (11/2 M.) Brunswick Springs. We now cross the Connecticut, enter Vermont (the 'Green Mountain State'), and run through forest. 149 M. Island Pond (1500 ft.; Stewart Ho., $2; Rail. Restaurant), with the frontier custom-house (baggage examined). At (166 M.) Norton Mills we enter Canada and begin to descend the Coaticooke. 193 M. Lennoxville, at the confluence of the St. Francis and Massawippi, is the junction of the Passumpsic Division of the Boston & Lowell R. R. (p. 120). - 196 M. Sherbrooke (Albion, $2), a town of 10,110 inhab., near which are the Rapids of the Magog, is the junction of the Canadian Pacific R. R. to Lake Megantic, Moosehead Lake, and St. John (see p. 99) and of the Quebec Central R. R. to Quebec (comp. p. 111). Lake Memphremagog (see p. 120) lies 16 M. to the S.W. of Sherbrooke. We now follow the St. Francis to (221 M.) Richmond (2056 inhab.), where our line forks, the left (main) branch running to (76 M.) Montreal and the right to (96 M.) Quebec.

The line to Quebec traverses a thinly peopled district, with some pleasant scenery. 12 M. Danville. From (32 M.) Arthabaska a branch-line runs to (35 M.) Three Rivers. 55 M. Ste. Julie. We cross the Chaudière (21/2-3 M. from the Falls) at (87 M.) Chaudière Junction. The railway ends at (96 M.) Point Levi (see p. 112), and passengers are ferried across the St. Lawrence to Quebec (see Baedeker's Canada).

The main line crosses the St. Francis and runs due W. from Richmond to Montreal, through a sparsely peopled forest-region.

Farther on it crosses the Yamaska and reaches (262 M.) St. Hyacinthe (Yamaska, $2), a French-Canadian town of 7,016 inhab., with a cathedral and a large Jesuit college. We next traverse a flat and fertile country, inhabited by an industrious French peasantry. To the N. rise the Yamaska Mts. Near (276 M.) Beloeil we pass Beloeil Mt. and cross the Richelieu. Beyond (292 M.) St. Lambert the train crosses the St. Lawrence by the wonderful Victoria Bridge and enters the Bonaventure Station at

297 M. Montreal (see Baedeker's Handbook to Canada).

b. Via the Maine Central Railway.

To (286 M.) Montreal in 12-161/2 hrs. (fare $71/2; parlor-car $ 1; berth $2); to (322 M.) Quebec in 141/2 hrs. (fare $81/2). This line traverses the centre of the White Mts. (seats to the right; observation-cars attached to the trains in the mountain-district). Through-cars are run from Portland to Montreal, and passengers for Quebec may join the through-train from Boston at N. Conway, Fabyans, Lancaster, Colebrook, or Beecher's Falls, or they may connect viâ North Stratford, with the Grand Trunk Railway (R. 14 a).!

Portland, see p. 96. The train starts from the Union Station, crosses the Presumpscott twice, and runs towards the W. 5 M. Cumberland Mills. 17 M. Sebago Lake Station, at the S. end of Sebago Lake (265 ft.), a pleasant, islet-dotted sheet of water, 13 M. long, 10 M. wide, and 100 ft. deep in its deepest part.

Steamers ply from this point across Sebago Lake, through the Songo River (6 M.), and across Long Lake (13 M. long and 2 M. wide), to (32 M.) Harrison (Elm Ho., $1; there and back in 8 hrs.; a pleasant trip). From Harrison coaches run to (14 M.) South Paris (p. 103). ́

Beyond (25 M.) Steep Falls we follow the valley of the Saco, the falls of which are seen near (34 M.) West Baldwin. From (35 M.) Bridgton Junction a narrow-gauge line runs to (16 M.) Bridgton, on Long Lake (see above), the usual starting-point for an ascent of (10 M.) Pleasant Mt. (2020 ft.; *Mt. Pleasant Ho., on the top, $2), which commands a splendid "Panorama of the White Mts. -49 M. Fryeburg (420 ft.; Fryeburg Ho., $112), a summer-resort, is 10 M. to the N. of Pleasant Mt. (see above). We now enter New Hampshire (p. 93). Beyond (55 M.) Conway Centre we cross the Saco, and enter the district of the White Mountains (R. 16). 60 M. North Conway (520 ft.; see p. 123), the junction of the Boston & Maine R. R. We now ascend more rapidly. To the right are Middle Mt., Hurricane Mt., and Mt. Kearsarge (comp. pp. 123, 124); to the left the long ridge of Moat Mt. (p. 124), with the 'Ledges'. 621/2 M. Intervale (p. 123). The train traverses the beautiful Conway 'intervales'. From (66 M.) Glen Station (p. 124) coaches run to (3 M.) Jackson and (14 M.) the Glen House (p. 125). The train turns to the left and crosses the Saco. Beyond (72 M.) Upper Bartlett (Bartlett Ho., $2; Rail. Restaurant), where an 'observation-car' is added to the train, we twice cross the Saco, then turn to the N. and cross Sawyer's River (station) and Nancy's Brook. To the left rises the triple-peaked Mt. Carrigain (4700 ft.). 78 M. Bemis. To the right

are Mt. Crawford (3130 ft.), Mt. Resolution (3436 ft.), and the Giant's Stairs (3512 ft.); to the left is Mt. Nancy (3944 ft.). — The line now bends to the N.W. and enters the famous Crawford or White Mountain Notch, a narrow defile, about 3-4 M. long, with the towering walls of Willey Mt. (4313 ft.) on the left and Mt. Webster (3928 ft.) on the right. The train ascends rapidly (1:44), at a height of 100-350 ft. above the river, and affords, perhaps, better views than the road (comp. p. 126). The deep ravine below (82 M.) Frankenstein Cliff (stat.) is crossed by a dizzy trestle, 80 ft. high and 500 ft. long. 83 M. Willey House (p. 126). To the right (ahead) we have a good view of Mt. Washington. The Willey Brook is crossed by another lofty trestle (80 ft. high). To the right are the Silver and Flume Cascades (p. 126). The train skirts the E. slope of Mt. Willard (2570 ft.; p. 126), leaves the Notch by its narrow Gateway (p. 126), and reaches the plateau on which lies the (87 M.) Crawford House (1890 ft.; p. 126). We now begin the descent, with the Ammonoosuc to the right. 89 M. Mt. Pleasant House. At (91 M.) Fabyan's (p. 127) we connect with the railway to the summit of Mt. Washington (see p. 131). Just beyond Fabyan's we cross the Ammonoosuc and descend along its left bank. 92 M. White Mt. House; 94 M. Zealand, the junction for the narrow-gauge line to Bethlehem Junction, Maplewood, Bethlehem Street, and the Profile House (see p. 129); 95 M. Twin Mountain House (p. 127). We now skirt the shoulder of Cherry Mt.

101 M. Quebec Junction, where the Quebec (Upper Coos) Division of the Maine Central R. R. diverges to the right, connecting with the Canadian Pacific and the Quebec Central Railways.

[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]

FROM QUEBEC JUNCTION TO QUEBEC, 221 M., in 10 hrs. We pass Cherry Pond, cross the Whitefield & Jefferson R. R., and reach (4 M.) Jefferson (see p. 130), situated on a spur of Mt. Starr King (4030 ft.), which rises to the right. The railway skirts the Israel River. 11 M. Lancaster (870 ft.; Lancaster Ho., $2-3; Williams Ho., $11/2), pleasantly situated on the Israel River, with 3373 inhab., is a favourite summer-resort and commands distant views of the White Mts. Mt. Prospect (2090 ft.; Prospect Ho., $3), 2 M. to the S.E., is a good point of view. To the E. are the Pilot Mts. Jefferson Hill (p. 130) is 7 M. to the E.S.E. We now pass from the White Mt. district and enter the Coos District. The train crosses the Concord & Montreal Railway at Lancaster, and farther on twice crosses the Connecticut, which here forms the boundary between Vermont and New Hampshire. At (31 M.) North Stratford our line intersects the Grand Trunk Railway (see p. 109). We ascend to the N. through the valley of the Connecticut. From (44 M.) Colebrook (1030 ft.; Nirvana, $4-7; Monadnock Ho., $2) a coach runs to (10 M.) the *Dixville Notch (Dix Ho., at the entrance, $2), a fine ravine, 2 M. long, with its most striking points (Table Rock, etc.) marked by sign-posts. Coaches run from the Notch to (11 M.) Errol's Dam (p. 109). - At (54 M.) Beecher's Falls, whence stages run to the (15 M.) Connecticut Lakes (2550 ft.; Connecticut Lake Ho., $11/2-2), the source of the Connecticut, we enter Canada (luggage examined). We traverse a heavily-timbered and scantily-settled region. At (72 M.) St. Malo we cross the watershed between the Connecticut and the St. Lawrence. 83 M. Sawyerville, with a large saw-mill. At (90 M.) Cookshire Junction we cross the Canadian Pacific R. R. between Sherbrooke and Lakes Megantic and Moosehead (comp. pp. 99, 109). Farther on we cross the St. Francis River. 103 M. Dudswell Junction is the point of intersection with the Quebec Central

R. R. from Sherbrooke to Quebec (comp. p. 109; the Upper Coos R. R. goes on to Lime Ridge, 4 M. farther on). The intermediate stations are unimportant. From (220 M.) Point Levi passengers are ferried across the St. Lawrence to Quebec (see Baedeker's Handbook to Canada).

From Quebec Junction the main line descends along the Ammonoosuc to (109 M.) Scott Junction, where it crosses the Concord & Montreal R. R. It then crosses the Connecticut and enters Vermont. At (111 M.) Lunenburg (Maple Grove Ho., $2) we pass on to the lines of the St. Johnsbury & Lake Champlain Division of the Boston & Maine R. R. A little beyond (118 M.) Miles Pond we meet the Passumpsic and follow it down to (133 M.) St. Johnsbury (p. 119), where we join the main route of the Boston & Maine R. R. to Canada. Thence to (286 M.) Montreal, see R. 15c.

15. From Boston to Montreal.

a. Vià Rutland and Burlington.

335 M. FITCHBURG RAILROAD from Boston to (114 M.) Bellows Falls in 31/4 hrs.; CENTRAL VERMONT RAILROAD from Bellows Falls to (194 M.) St. John's in 7 hrs.; GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY thence to (27 M.) Montreal in 3/4-1 hr. (through-fare $9; parlor-car $11/2; sleeper $21/2).

Boston, see p. 72. Leaving the Fitchburg station (p. 72), the train crosses the Charles, affording a view to the right of the Hoosac Tunnel Docks, the U. S. Navy Yard, and Bunker Hill Monument (p. 85). At the State Prison (right) the line wheels to the left (W.) and crosses a backwater to Somerville. It then traverses Cambridge (p. 83), with a glimpse of the Harvard College buildings to the left. 10 M. Waltham (Sanderson Ho., $21/2), a city of 18,707 inhab., with extensive cotton-mills and the interesting works of the American Waltham Watch Co. (the largest in the world, producing 550,000 machine-made watches annually). We have our last view of the Charles here, to the left. To the right is Prospect Hill (480 ft.). A little farther on we pass Lake Walden (right), a favourite haunt of Thoreau (1817-1862; see 'Walden'), but now frequented by picnic parties instead of recluses.

20 M. Concord (Thoreau House Ho., $21/2), a village with 4427 inhab. situated on the Concord River, here formed by the junction of the Sudbury and the Assabet, is of abiding interest as the home of Hawthorne and Emerson, Thoreau and the Alcotts. It may be fittingly described as the American Weimar or Stratford-on-Avon and has kept its literary association less tainted by commercialism than either of these places. The following brief account should be supplemented by Mr. George B. Bartlett's interesting little volume on Concord: Historic, Literary, and Picturesque' (with plan).

On leaving the Fitchburg Railway Station we proceed to the right along Thoreau Street to Sudbury Street, which we follow to the left. To the left, where Sudbury St. joins Main Street, stands the Free Public Library, containing many interesting autographs. Following Main St. to the right, we cross the Mill Brook and reach a square whence several streets radiate.

If we follow Lexington Street to the right, which was the route of the

British retreat in 1775 (see below), we reach (5 min.), to the right, at the point where Lincoln St. diverges, the white House of R. W. Emerson, still occupied by his daughter. Here the 'Sage of Concord' was visited by Frederika Bremer, Margaret Fuller (Countess d'Ossoli), etc. A little farther on, to the left, is Orchard House, long the home of the Alcott Family, of which Louisa M. Alcott (1832-88), author of 'Little Women', is the most widely known member. To the W. of the house is the building used by the Concord School of Philosophy, which was established by A. Bronson Alcott (17991888) in 1879 and counted Emerson, Ben. Peirce, Dr. W. T. Harris, and Col. T. W. Higginson among its lecturers. The next house (left) is The Wayside, the home of Nathaniel Hawthorne in 1852-64, with the tower-study in which he wrote 'Septimius Felton' and other works.

We now return to the above-mentioned square and follow Monument Street to the N., crossing the Lowell R. R. and reaching (12 min.; to the left) the Old Manse, built for the Rev. Wm. Emerson in 1765 and occupied after him by the Rev. Dr. Ripley and many other eminent divines. This was the birthplace of R. W. Emerson, and in the study above the diningroom he wrote 'Nature' and Hawthorne his 'Mosses from an Old Manse'. Adjoining the grounds of the Old Manse is the bridge over the Concord River, where the 'minute-men' of the neighbourhood encountered the British soldiers on April 19th, 1775, and 'where the embattled farmers stood and fired the shot heard round the world'. Beyond the bridge is a fine commemorative statue of the *Minute-Man, by Dan. C. French.

Bedford Street, running to the E. from the central square, leads to (10 min.) Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, one of the most romantic burialgrounds in America. Among the illustrious dead buried here are Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803-82: grave marked by a huge block of pink quartz), Nathaniel Hawthorne (1804-68; grave surrounded by a low hedge of arbor vitæ), Henry Thoreau (comp. p. 112), and the Alcotts (see above).

The Concord rivers are very picturesque and a row on one or other of them may fitly wind up the visit.

A line runs from Concord to (10 M.) Lexington (Russell Ho., $2; also reached direct from Boston by the Boston & Maine R. R., 11 M.), where, on April 19th, 1775, the first battle between the British and Americans took place (comp. above). A monument has been erected to the eight militia-men who fell here.

At (22 M.) Concord Junction we cross the Old Colony line to Lowell (p. 116) and the Concord and Montreal R. R.; to the right is the State Reformatory. 25 M. South Acton; 36 M. Ayer Junction.

50 M. Fitchburg (Fitchburg Ho., Derby Ho., $2-21/2), a busy industrial city on the Nashua River, with 22,037 inhab., the junction of lines to Worcester (p. 60) and South Framingham (p. 61).

The train now begins to ascend. To the right runs the Nashua. From (53 M.) Wachusett coaches run to the S. to (6 M.) Mt. Wachusett (2108 ft.; Summit Ho., $2-21/2; *View), which may also be reached from Princeton Centre (Wachusett Ho., $ 2-21/2), on the Worcester line (see above). At (60 M.) South Ashburnham the Cheshire branch diverges to the right (N.) from the main line (which goes on to the Berkshire Hills and Troy, N. Y.; see p. 134). At (68 M.) Winchendon we cross the Monadnock branch to Peterboro.

From Peterboro a stage runs to (4 M.) the lovely summer-resort of Dublin (Appleton, Boulderstone, $2-3), finely situated near the N.W. base of Mt. Monadnock. It is also reached viâ Harrisville, on the Boston & Maine R. R.

The train now enters New Hampshire. From (82 M.) Troy a coach (fare 50 c.) runs to (5 M.) the Mountain House, about halfway

BAEDEKERS' United States.

8

« PreviousContinue »