Point and then to the S.E. between some small islands, and join the steamer-route above described near the Placentia Islands (p. 100). We reach Bar Harbor (p. 102) about 5 hrs. after leaving Castine. Beyond Bar Harbor the steamer goes on to (4 hrs.) Machias (p. 102).

11. Mount Desert.

The island of Mount Desert, the Indian Pemetic, lying just off the coast of Maine, in Frenchman's Bay, about 110 M. to the E. of Portland, is 14 M. long, 4-12 M. wide, and 100 sq. M. in area. In 1890 it contained 5337 inhab., but this number is immensely increased during summer. Within a moderate compass it contains a considerable variety of picturesque scenery, and its mountains, or rather hills, rising abruptly from the sea, have no parallel along the whole Atlantic coast of the United States and are much more imposing than their moderate elevation would suggest.

History. Mount Desert (accent on the first syllable) was first sighted in 1604, by Champlain, who gave it the name of 'Isle des Monts Deserts'. In 1613 a small French colony, sent out by Mme. de Guerchville, to convert the Indians, planted the settlement of St. Sauveur on Somes Sound (see below), but it was soon destroyed by the English (see Parkman's 'Pioneers of France in the New World'). In 1688 Louis XIV. granted the island to M. de la Motte Cadillac; but it was not till 1786 that his granddaughter, Mme. de Gregoire, came over to claim the property, a claim that was allowed by the State of Massachusetts in 1787. The island has, however, long since passed out of the possession of this family. It was about 1850 that Mt. Desert was first visited by artists and other summer-guests, but it was not till ten or fifteen years later that Bar Harbor (see p. 102) began to be what it now is one of the most frequented and

fashionable summer-resorts in the United States.

Physical Features. The mountains of Mt. Desert are mainly confined to the S. part of the island, where they run N. and S. in roughly parallel ridges, separated by narrow, trough-like valleys. The place of one of these valleys is taken by Somes Sound, which penetrates to the heart of the island. Thirteen main peaks are reckoned, the highest of which is Mt. Green (1527 ft.) in the S.E. corner. Numerous small mountain lakes and streams afford good fishing. Prof. Shaler finds evidence that even the highest summits of Mt. Desert were submerged beneath the sea for some time after the disappearance of the ice of the glacial epoch. The Climate of Mt. Desert is usually cool and refreshing in summer, but fogs are rather frequent. The water is too cold for much bathing. There are several good roads and numerous well-marked footpaths (especially in the vicinity of Bar Harbor), but much might still be done, by a society formed for the purpose, to open up the interior of the island by the formation of paths, the erection of sign-posts, and the like. On the N. the island is connected with the mainland by a bridge.

Approaches. Most of the usual approaches to Mt. Desert are indicated in R. 10. We may also go from Boston to Bar Harbor by a steamer of the Boston & Bangor Steamship Co., which starts daily at 5 p.m. and connects at Rockland early next morning with the Bar Harbor boat of the same company (see p. 99; through-fare $4, stateroom $1-2). There is also a passenger steamer (Mallory Line) once weekly between Bar Harbor and New York (Pier 20 or 21, East River; 36 hrs.; fare $91/2, stateroom $1-5, D. $1, B. or S. 75 c.). Comp. Chisholm's 'Mount Desert Guide' and Sherman's 'Bar Harbor Guide'.

As nine-tenths of the visitors to Mt. Desert land at Bar Harbor, it is convenient to begin with that watering-place.

Bar Harbor. Hotels. LOUISBURG, Atlantic Ave., $ 41/2-5; MALVERN, Kebo St., $5; WEST END, West St., $3-4, a large house overlooking Frenchman's Bay; THE EDEN, cor. Main St. and Mt. Desert St., the largest, $21/2-3; ST. SAUVEUR, Mt. Desert St., with views of mountains and bay, $312; LYNAM'S, BELMONT, Mt. Desert St., $2-3; NEWPORT HOUSE, with its annex the ROCKAWAY, nearest the steamer-wharf, $3; HÔTEL DES ISLES, MARLBOROUGH, Main St., $2-22; PORCUPINB, Main St., R. from $1. Decreased rates by the week or month, and before or after the height of the season. Boarding Houses, $4-10 per week; Furnished Lodgings from $2-3 upwards. "Sproul's Restaurant, Main St.

Carriages. With one horse $11/2 per hr., with two horses (1-6 pers.) $212. To the different places of interest on the island by tariff. The favourite carriage is the 'Buckboard', an excellent easy-riding conveyance for hilly roads, made here to hold 2-12 persons.

Steamers to Rockland, see p. 99; Boston, p. 97; New York, p. 101; Machias, p. 101; Eastport, p. 107; Bar Harbor Ferry, p. 99. Steamers also ply to Bangor, to Sorrento (p. 99) and Sullivan, to (4 M.) Winter Harbor (Hotel Cleaves, $2-3), on the other side of the bay, etc.

Boats for rowing, sailing (cat-boats), and fishing can be hired at moderate rates; also steam-launches. Row-boat 35c. per hr., with man 75c.; canoes, with Indians to paddle, 75 c. per hr. Yachts frequent the harbour in large numbers, and regattas take place here in summer. A visit of the Atlantic Squadron of the U.S. Navy is generally one of the events of the season at Bar Harbor, and is accompanied by a round of gaieties.

Kebo Valley Club, Eagle Lake Road; Mount Desert Reading Room and Club, Birch Point; both open to strangers on introduction by a member. Eden Swimming Pool Club, Eden St. Indian Encampment, at Eddy Brook (see below; curiosities for sale).

Comp. the current issue of the Bar Harbor Record (5c.).

Bar Harbor, a popular watering-place frequented by 10-20,000 visitors every summer and almost vying in importance with Newport (p. 68), lies on the E. coast of Mt. Desert, in Frenchman's Bay, opposite the pretty little Porcupine Islands and within 2 M. of the N.E. base of Green Mt. (p. 103). Its name is derived from the sandy bar, uncovered at low water, which connects it with Bar or Rodick's Island. The principal street is Main Street (running S. from the steamboat-wharf), from which West St., Cottage St., and Mt. Desert St. run to the W. A fine view is enjoyed, across the harbour, of the hills on the mainland, and numerous pleasant walks and drives may be made in the neighbourhood. A huge breakwater, now in construction, will render the harbour one of the best on this coast.

The following WALK of 41/2 M. shows most of the points of interest in Bar Harbor itself. Starting at the steamboat-wharf and passing the Rockaway Hotel, we enter the Shore Walk or Tow Path, which, like the Cliff Path at Newport (p. 70), runs between the sea on one hand and beautiful villas and lawns on the other. The Mt. Desert Club (see above) stands at the beginning of the walk. A little farther on, off the shore, is the Poised Rock. The stone tower farther on is at the end of a bowling-alley belonging to the Villa Edgemere. From Reef Point a path runs to the E. towards Main St. Just before reaching Wayman Lane, also leading to Main St., we pass the handsome house of Mr. J. M. Sears of Boston. Adjacent is Kenarden Lodge. Beyond Redwood, the second house past the lane, we reach (34 M.) the pretty little Cromwell Harbor, where we follow the path through the trees on its N. shore to (1/4 M.) Main St., which we reach near its S. end. Turning to the right, we follow Main St. to (10 min.) the Grand Central Hotel, where we turn to the left into Mt. Desert St. At the (10 min.) end of this street we descend Eden St. or the Ellsworth Road to the right to (5 min.) the bridge over the Eddy Brook. Continuing to follow this

road for about 1 M., with villas on both sides, the grounds on the right extending down to the bay, we reach the Duck Brook Bridge, whence a pleasant Footpath ascends to the left along the brook and through the trees to (2 M.) Eagle Lake (see below). The so-called Bay Drive begins at the Duck Brook Bridge. In the meantime, however, we turn at the bridge and retrace our steps along the Ellsworth Road to (1/2 M.) Highbrooke Road, which diverges to the right and runs circuitously over the hill, rejoining the Ellsworth Road (Eden St.) about 1/2 M. farther on. In Highbrooke road, to the left, is Stanwood, the summer-home of Mr. James G. Blaine (d. 1893). We finally return (10 min.) to Main St. through West St. or Cottage St., which both run to the left from the Ellsworth Road.

EXCURSIONS. The ascent of Green Mountain (1527 ft.) is, perhaps, the best excursion to begin with. We may drive the whole way to the top (4 M.) by a somewhat rough road (toll 25 c. for each horse and for each passenger, 10 c. for each walker), diverging to the left from the road to Eagle Lake (the prolongation of Mt. Desert St.) about 1/4 M. fromthe village. Walkers may ascend by the same route (11/2-2 hrs.), but will do better to follow the "Path ascending the gorge between Green Mt. and Newport Mt. (comp. Map; sign-posts). The Green Mountain Railway (cogwheel; disused at present) is reached by following the road to (2 M.) *Eagle Lake (2 M. long, 1/2 M. wide, and 275 ft. above the sea) and crossing the lake. At the top is a small Hotel (meal $ 1). The *View includes Bar Harbor, Frenchman's Bay, almost the whole of Mt. Desert, the ocean, and the coast of Maine. Many visitors stay overnight to see the sunrise. Good walkers may descend along the ridges by compass (no path) to (1-2 hrs.) the Otter Creek Road (see below) and return by it to Bar Harbor. Newport Mt. (1060 ft.), to the E. of Green Mt. and close to the sea, is ascended from the Schooner Head Road in 1 hr. The path (sign-post) leads through trees, then over the ledges by cairns. *View less extensive but more satisfactory than from Green Mt. The descent may be made via the Beehive. Mt. Kebo (405 ft.), between Green Mt. and Bar Harbor, is ascended by a road (21/2 M.). A very pleasant trip for walkers is to go to (2 M.) Eagle Lake (see above; trout and salmon fishing); traverse it by boat; follow a forest-path from its S. end, below the Bubbles (p. 104), to (1 M.) Jordan's Pond; cross by boat to the lower end of Jordan's Pond; and walk thence to (21/2 M.) Seal Harbor or (21/2 M.) Asticou (comp. p. 104). The boat may be ordered by telephone from Tibbett's (Rfmts.), at the lower end of Jordan's Pond, or (less certain) may be signalled for with the flag and horn provided for the purpose at the N. end.

*Ocean Drive to Schooner Head, Great Head, and the Otter Cliffs, returning through the Gorge, is a fine round of 12 M. ($ 1/2 for each passenger). We leave Bar Harbor by Main St. and drive towards the S. At (3 M.) Schooner Head, named from a white stain resembling the sails of a schooner, are the Spouting Horn (seen to advantage in rough weather only) and the Anemone Cave. About 1 M. farther on we diverge to the left from the road to visit the bold and massive promontory of Great Head, towering 140 ft. above the water and affording a fine view. To the S. lies Newport Beach, with Thunder Cave, near which our road runs to (2 M.) Otter Cliffs, with the Peaks of Otter (506 ft.) rising to the right. To visit the Otter Cliffs (180 ft.; *View), we again diverge to the left from the road (small fee). We now turn to the right (N.) and drive back to (6 M.) Bar Harbor through the fine "Echo Gorge, between Newport Mt. on the right and Dry Mt. (1268 ft.) on the left.

Another favourite drive is to (11 M.) Duck Brook (see above) and thence by the high and winding Bay Drive or Corniche Road (View) to (1/4 M.) Hull's Cove, the former home of Mme. de Gregoire (p. 101). We may return viâ Eagle Lake and the so-called Breakneck Road (5 M.); and we may extend the drive beyond Hull's Cove to (3 M.) the Ovens (caves; visited by boat at high water), with the archway known as the Via Mala. - The so-called *Twenty-Two Mile Drive leads viâ the Eagle Lake Road to (6 M.) the N. end of Somes Sound (p. 105); then runs on the E. side of the Sound to (4 M.) North East Harbor; follows the coast thence via Seal Harbor to (6 M.) Otter Creek; and returns to (6 M.) Bar Harbor viâ either