Near the Porto di S. Micheli, built according to some by the celebrated engineer, Sammicheli, is the Citadel, which, though regularly planned and laid out, is incapable of much resistance. A fine esplanade lies between it and the town, close to the Stradone and the Botanic Garden. Statue of Correggio.

By the Treaty of Villafranca (1859), the Duchies of Parma and Piacenza were to be restored to their runaway sovereigns, subject to the concurrence of the people; an important reservation, which they were quick to use against them. As soon as the Austrian bayonets were withdrawn the whole edifice of tyranny tumbled into ruins. The small Ducal army joined its protectors at Mantua. Farini was appointed Dictator of Modena and Parma by the respective Chambers; Ricasoli governed Tuscany, under the Assembly; and Cipriani the Legations.

In the course of a short time deputations proceeded to Turin to offer the sovereignty of Central Italy to Victor Emmanuel, which he accepted conditionally; and Garibaldi being appointed to the command, an army of twenty-two regiments of infantry, with artillery and cavalry, was soon organised. The late Duke (Ferd. Ch. III.) was stabbed March, 1854; his prime minister, Baron Ward, once an English jockey, was dismissed; and his widow became Regent. She died 1864.

On the 5th October, 1859, Colonel Anviti, one of the most active and detested agents of the Duke was recognised by the mob at the station, and though taken by the police to the San Barnaba barracks, they broke in and massacred him. This unhappy event was a great stain on the Italian cause, and the population was disarmed by Farini. Beyond the gates, near Sala, is the Casino de Boschi, a favourite retreat of Maria Louisa. The Viletta, or public cemetery, is also outside the town. About 9 miles from it, at CALORNO, on the Castel Maggiore Road, is another Ducal seat, a fine building, in extensive gardens. The wood of Selva Piana to the south, up the Apennines, was Petrarch's favourite retreat. His house is gone, but the noble prospect remains as beautiful as when he lived to enjoy it.

Among the natives of Parma were Cassius, the friend of Brutus; another Cassius, a poet, whom Horace speaks of; and Macrobius; besides the painter, Parmigiano, already mentioned. Some of his best works are at Bologna, to which he went in 1527.

Roads from Parma.-That by Colorno leads to Castel Maggiore (2 posts) on the Po, whence there is a direct road to Mantua and another to Bozzo, on the Cremona and Mantua Road. The direct post road to Mantua passes Sorbolo, on the Enza, Brescello (2 posts), and GUASTALLA (1 post), with a population of 9,544. near the Po; thence to Mantua, as in Route 16. Fertile meadows are seen all the way. A ferrovia economica (27 miles) is open to Suzzara, passing Brescello and

Guastalla.

Many of the inhabitants of the province, belonging to the mountainous or barren parts of the state, emigrate to England to earn a small independence with their street organs and monkeys.

Leaving Parma at the railway station near Porta S. Barnaba, the line continues to traverse the great plain, close to the Via Emilia, and in view of the Apennines. Cross the Enza, which was the boundary of the now extinct Duchies of Parma and Modena.

S. Ilario (Stat.), population, 1,800. Cross the Costolo, and the next place is the walled city of REGGIO (Stat.)

The birthplace of Ariosto, the poet.
Population, 18,634.

Inn: Posta.

This is the ancient Rhegium Lepidi, founded by Emilius Lepidus, whose name survives in his Emilian Way and the new Italian province of Emilia.

This road, under the name of the Strada Maestra (the master road), is the chief thoroughfare, with another called the Corso della Ghiarra. After being ruined by Attila and rebuilt by Charlemagne, Reggio came under the family of Este, which Ariosto, in the last canto of his Orlando Furioso, makes to spring from the marriage of Bradomante and Ruggiero, a converted Saracen knight. *Ariosto's House, or the site of it, is shown near the Town Hall, or Palazzo del Commune.

One remarkable building is the Duomo, in Piazza Grande, an unfinished church of the fifteenth century, having statues without and within it by one of M. Angelo's pupils, Clementi, who is buried here. Over the portal, Adam and Eve.

The Madonna della Ghiaia, belonging to the Franciscan Convent of the Zoccolanti (i.e., sandalwearers), in the Corso, contains a Crucifixion by Guercino, with frescoes by L. Ferrari and Tiarini. Nearer this is a granite obelisk, erected 1842, on the marriage of the Grand Duke. S. Prospero, in Piazza Piccola, an old church, rebuilt in the sixteenth century. It has frescoes by Procaccini, Campi, and Tiarini. At the Lyceo is a Natural History collection, made by Spallanzani.

Not far from this, in the Apennines, are the remains of Canossa Castle, which belonged to the Great Countess Matilda, and in which Pope Hildebrand, to whom she gave shelter here, received the homage of Henry IV. in 1077. The Emperor was kept three days outside the castle in

the dress of a penitent, and on the fourth day was granted absolution after kissing the Pope's foot. Canossa may be reached from Bibbianello viâ Quattro Castelli (so called from the four Castles, Montrevero, Bibbianello, Monteluzzo, Montesano), San Polo on the Enza, Ciano, Rossena, to Canossa. The nearest Station is S. Ilario, but Parma or Reggio is more convenient. The Countess's Chapel and portrait are at Bibbianello. She bequeathed her lands to the Church.

Rubiera (Stat.), the next, at a little fortified place, near the Secchia. It was the state prison of the Duchy of Modena, and belonged to the ancestors of Bojardo, the author of the Orlando Innamorato (which Ariosto afterwards took up), and Count of Scandiano, a feudal castle a few miles off, under the Apennines. The next place is

Good

Hotels: San Marco; Reale; Leopardo. zampone or petitoes; spongate, pani, speziali, and other sweetmeats; vino tosco (red), vino trebbiano (white), and vino di Sorbaro, are the usual wines.

Conveyances.-Railway to Bologna, Parma, and Piacenza. Omnibuses and carriages at the railway station; the former 50 cents., the latter 1 lira. to 1 lira 50 cents., to any part of the town.

*Chief Objects of Notice.-Duomo; Ghirlandina Tower; Ducal Palace.

This small capital of the little absolute Duchy of Modena, now swallowed up in the constitutional Kingdom of Italy, is a well-built and handsome city, between the Secchia and Panaro, shut in by walls, and containing several arcaded streets, the principal one called Strada Maestra, or Corso Victor Emmanuel, forming part of the Via Emilia. Here is a Statue to Muratori, the great scholar. A canal, from near the railway station and Porta Castello, opens up a communication with the Po. It is well supplied with water. At the northern extremity is the citadel, in Piazza d'Armi. Of fifty Churches and chapels, the most remarkable is the

*Duomo, or Cathedral, near the Corso, in Piazza Grande, founded 1099, by Countess Matilda, in the Lombard style, and finished in the fourteenth century, has a stone vault and crypt. It contains the Rangoni tombs, and an ancient Modenese painting of the Crowning of Mary, by S. de' Serafini (1385), with a terra cotta Nativity, by Begarelli. Its tall, conspicuous Campanile (12241509), consisting of a square base of 200 feet, with an octagonal spire of 115 feet on top, is of black marble, with a bronze garland round it, which gives it its popular name of * Ghirlandina. It holds a famous Bucket, which, in the civil wars of the fourteenth century, was carried off from Bologna as a trophy, and is the subject of a burlesque poem,

La Secchia Rapita (the Rape of the Bucket), by Tassoni, whose statue is here, and who is not to be confounded with Tasso.

S. Agostino, or Santa Margharita, near the Reggio Gate. Here is a good Descent from the Cross, by Begarelli, a Modenese sculptor, a work extravagantly praised by M. Angelo; also the tombs of two other distinguished natives, Sigonio and Muratori. Madonna del Carmine, in the Corso, near the Bologna Gate, has a cupola painted by Paradis. S. Paolo has a Nativity of Mary, by Pellegrino, a native artist. S. Vicenzio, near the Palace Gardens, has tombs of the ex-Ducal family.

On the east side of the city, facing the Piazza Ducale and the Public Gardens, is the

*Ducal Palace, now Palazzo Reale, an extensive and handsome pile, begun 1634, by Bart. Avanzini, with a fine colonnaded court and gardens, grand staircase, &c. Here are the Estense Gallery and library. Among the paintings are the following:L. di Bicci-Madonna. S. Aretino - A Marriage. N. dell' Abate--Landscapes (he is one of the best artists of the Modenese school). TintorettoMadonna and Saints. Giorgione-Portrait.

Correggio-Ganymede.

P. Bordone-Adoration of the Magi. L. Caracci-Venus and Cupid. Titian-Portraits. Garofalo-Madonna and Saints. Guido-S. Roch in Prison, and a Crucifixion. D. Dossi-Judith, and portraits of the Este Family. G. Francia-Assumption. Guercino-Venus sitting, and Marriage of St. Catherine. A. del Sarto-Holy Family. G.Procaccini-Circumcision. Tiarini-Crucifixion. Pellegrino-Nativity. Pomarancio-a Dead Christ on the Cross. Murilloa Peasant. Velasquez- a Benedictine. There is also a collection of drawings by old masters.

The Library, or Biblioteca Estense, is a fine collection of 90,000 volumes and 3,000 MSS., besides archives. Muratori, the author of "Antichità Estense," and Tiraboschi, author of "Biblioteca Modense," &c., were librarians here. The latter is buried in the Church of S. Faustino, outside the city. Some of the rarest MSS. and medals disappeared with the ex-Duke Francesco V., in 1859.

His little army of 2,000 men remained faithful to him, and was incorporated with the Austrian forces. He used to say he did not want "enlightened men, but obedient subjects and submissive Christians," the very essence of a despot's notions of good government.

The military barracks, at the Salicetta, were used by him as a prison for political offenders.

The Ducal Palace was occupied by Farini, the Dictator. It was asserted by the Court faction, and repeated by Lord Normanby, that this eminent man appropriated all the Duke's linen, which being marked "F." (for Francesco), would do as well for Farini. When he resigned the Dictatorship, upon the union of the Duchies with Sardinia, he was as poor as when he assumed it; so poor that the Provincial Assembly voted him an estate and

a sum of money, both of which he refused to accept.

Modena is a dull town, without society, the leading families being in the hands of an ignorant and bigoted priesthood. It has a good theatre and Public gardens. General Cialdini was born at Castelvetro, near Modena, and began service with Don Pedro, in Portugal.

There is a ferrovia economica, which, starting from Sassuolo, 10 miles south-east of Modena, passes through the latter, and is continued 19 miles to Mirandola (this is not the Mirandola mentioned on page 98), with a branch to Finale. Finale is a city of 13,000 inhabitants.

From Modena the rail continues to follow the Via Emilia, to the Panaro, the ancient Scultenna,

which formerly divided Modena from the Romagna,

or States of the Church.

is the founder of the naturalist, or literal school, as opposed to the ideal, which is based on selection. His best work is the Pietà, in the Vatican. His Christ at Emmaus is in our National Gallery. Spagnoletto was one of his followers.

Crema (Stat.), population, 8,240, on the River Serio, which comes from Bergamo. It has some manufactures, a breeding stud, and a cathedral of the fifteenth century, with paintings by Guido. Rich meadow land here all the way to Cremona, but the line passes nothing of importance except flax works, &c.

CREMONA (Stat.)

Hotels: L'Italia (the best); Sole d'Oro; Albergo Reale (Royal Hotel); Il Capello (Hat).

Good cheese, torrone cake, and mostarda; the last a preserve flavoured with mustard seed.

An ancient town and bishop's see of 31,083 inhabitants, once noted for its manufacture of

"Cremona" violins, as well as other musical instruments; the chief makers of which were Amati (born 1596), and Stradivarius (died 1737), in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Another maker is J. Guarnerius, born 1683. Paganini's violin, at Genoa, is a Stradivarius. Their houses are in the great square.

It stands near the Po, in a fertile but marshy part of the great plain of Lombardy. Walls and ditches surround it on all sides, the ditches being filled by a canal, called the Naviglio di Crema, which comes down from the Oglio and runs into the Po, which is henceforth navigable to the sea. It is about 5 miles in circuit, and though the general view of its streets and houses is agreeable, decayed look about the place. Many of the gates yet, being too large for the population, there is a deserve notice; but the most remarkable object is its famous Torrazzo or Bell Tower, nearly 390 feet high, being one of the loftiest in Italy, and visible for many miles round the town. It was built 1261-84, on the establishment of peace with its neighbour states, and is a plain square tower surmounted by an octagon and spire. There are 498 steps up to the bells in the spire, which commands a magnificent view of the great plain of Lombardy, from the Alps to the Apennines.

Among the best buildings are several palaces and churches, in the Gothic style; and the Town Hall, or Palazzo Pubblico, of the thirteenth century, lately restored, is in the great square, near the Torazzo; it contains a picture gallery (campi, &c.) and mantelpiece. For painting the loggia of this building, F. Sacconi and his brother, the founders of the Cremona branch of the Lombard school in the fifteenth century, were exempted from taxes by their fellow citizens. The old brick Giure Consulti or Law Court adjoining it, marked by battlements and large arches (now filled in), is a school. Cremona possesses several good infant schools, first established here by the Abate Aporti, in 1829. Holiday schools for elder boys, i.e. schools which they attend on church holidays, also exist here. Palazzo Reale has pictures, designs by M. Angelo, coins, &c. The fine fifteenth century Gate of the Stanga Palace is now at the Louvre.

The Cathedral or Duomo, close to the tower, to which it is united by an open loggia, is a Gothic church, for the most part built between 1107 and 1606, the façade of white and red marble being the latest portion. This is ornamented by curious carvings of the seasons, signs of the zodiac, and a rose window, by G. Porrata, 1274. The interior is highly adorned, and contains many paintings by Pordenone (the Crucifixion), B. Gatti, Boccacino (the "Raphael" of Cremona, as he is called), Maretti, Campi, Marosso, &c., with frescoes by Diotti, and sculptures by Sacchi, a native artist of the thirteenth century. A Romanesque eight-sided Baptistery of the eleventh century is the most ancient part of the cathedral. In the Campo Santo adjoining is an ancient pavement, with mosaics.

In S. Nazaro Church are cupola paintings by the brothers B. A. and G. Campi, some of whose works, as well as other native artists, are seen in the Churches of S. Pietro al Po, S. Abbondio, S. Domenico, S. Lorenzo, S. Giorgio, &c. Santa Agata in Piaz. Garibaldi is an ancient Gothic building, of brick, like the rest, containing G. Campi's Martyrdom of Santa Agata. Another ancient church,

At

S. Agostino, has Perugino's Virgin and Saints. Santa Pelagia is a monument to Archbishop Vida, a native of the city; "Immortal Vida," of Pope's lines, who prophesies

"Cremona now shall ever boast thy name As next in place to Mantua, next in fame." He was of Leo X.'s time, and wrote some Latin poems.

One mile out of the town, on the Mantua road, is the fine Church of *S. Sigismondo, which was part of an abbey founded by F. Sforza I., Duke of Milan, who rebuilt it on his marriage with Bianca Visconti, 1441. It is full of paintings and frescoes by the Campi, Boccacino, Gatti, and other Cremona artists.

It was at Cremona that Prince Eugene surprised Marshal Villeroy, and made him prisoner, 1702.

Cremona was a flourishing town in the territory of the Cenomanni, having been colonised before Hannibal's March into Italy, so that it may vie in antiquity with any of its neighbours. Virgil and Tacitus both describe the injuries it endured in the civil wars of the empire. It is now the head of a province in the kingdom of Italy.

By rail to Casalpusterlengo (Route 15), and hence to Piacenza and Pavia.

By rail to Mantua, 39 miles; opened 1874, in the direction of the ancient Via Posthumia; past Piadena (Stat.) near Gannetto, an old fortified post in the Duchy of Mantua; Bozzolo (Stat.), population, 3,966, the ancient Bozzulum, on the Oglio, with a castle formerly belonging to the Gonzaga family; Castelluchio (Stat.), on a branch of the Mincio; and Le Grazie Church (see page 68).

For Parma, proceed to PIADENA, as above, then take the line (opened November, 1884) to

Casal Maggiore (Stat.), population, 15,122, at the ferry on the Po. Then to Colorno (Stat.), by Colorno Castle and the old Abbey of S. Martino, to

Parma (Stat.), on the railway to the south (Route 15).

Verona (Stat.) See Route 13.

Domegliara (Stat.), near RIVOLI, on the other side of the Adige, where Bonaparte defeated the Austrians under Alvinzi, 14th January, 1797, after a hard fight, the town being taken and retaken twice over.

'Rovereto (Stat.), which is in Austrian territory, is the nearest station for

Riva, at the head of Lake di Garda. (See Bradshaw's Hand-Book to Switzerland and the Tyrol.)

Hotel and Pension au Lac, pleasant and comfortable, recommended..

A town of 5,000 population, seated among mountains, in a climate so mild that oranges, myrtles, olives, &c, grow in the open air, and entitle it to be called the paradise of the South Alps. Two mountain streams, tumble into the lake here. At the Minorite Church are some works of art; La Rocca Castle, on the lake, was built by the Scaligeri family. There is a fine promenade in the colonnade, on the little harbour.

Various excursions may be made on the Lake, which is surrounded by hills, castles, country houses, &c., offering a great variety of beautiful prospects. A steamboat starts daily to the little port of Desenzano, besides the ordinaria or packet boat twice a week. From Riva to Peschiera at the bottom, the Lake is about 30 miles long; the breadth here is 10 miles; excellent fish is caught. Virgil calls it the Benacus, and notices the storms raised by the mountain winds. Only the upper part on each side of Riva belongs to Tyrol. Mount Baldo comparatively bare, hangs over the east side; the west is by far the most picturesque.

In the middle is the pretty Island of Tremelone, with Count Lecchi's house and gardens. Among the spots on the west shore worth notice are-the Ledro Waterfall, behind Ponale, 200 feet down; Limone, and its citron groves; the limestone quarries of Tremosine; Gargnago and its villas; Toscolans and vineyards; Salo (population, 3,000), among orange groves, one of the most delightful parts of the lake, Manerbio, which had a temple of Minerva Würmser marched down both sides of this lake to meet Bonaparte in the campaign of 1796.

For Trento (Stat.), or Trent, where the Council was held, and the Brenner Pass, see Bradshaw's Hand-Book to Switzerland and the Tyrol.

ROUTE 18. Verona to Mantua, Modena, and Bologna. By rail to Mantua, 23 miles; three times a day in 1 hour.

Verona (Stat.) Seo Route 13.

The trains leave Porta Vezcova, from which it is 1 mile to Forta Nuova; after which the stations are

Miles.

Mozzecane ......... ·144 Roverbella............ 18

Mantua

25