are openings for ventilation, or for drawing up the water. It is now perfectly dry, and looks solid enough to remain entire for more centuries than it has already existed."-(Miss Catlow). The Villa of Cornelia, the mother of the Gracchi, was near the Punta di Pennata, at the north corner of the

Harbour of Misenum.-This ancient Roman naval station, constructed by Agrippa, was composed of three basins; the inner one being the Mare Morto, the crater of an extinct volcano, to which the Campi Elisii, or Elysian Fields above-mentioned, extended. The walks are covered with cypresses, poplars, mulberries, festooned with vines. Pliny the Elder was in command of the fleet here when he started across the bay to witness the eruption of Vesuvius, and met his death, A.D. 79. It is now a solitude. To the south is the promontory of Misenum, ending in a high cliff, 5 miles from the Punta di Posilippo, and 3 miles from the Island of Procida. It is so called from Misenus, the trumpeter of Æneas, who was buried here; or, as as some say, on Monte Procida, a hill looking towards that island, which is covered with ruins of villas and tombs, several of them used as cellars for the wine grown on the site.

Here Tiberius, on his return to Capri, died in a villa which belonged to Lucullus and C. Marius. Another villa was the residence of Cornelia, the mother of the Gracchi. Here, too, Madame de Staël places her "Corinne." The whole promontory is called Miliscola, from Militis Schola, because the sailors or soldiers of the fleet used to exercise here. The prospect is a lovely one all round. This bay abounds with small fish having a head like a horse and a dragon's tail, and called cavalli-marini, which some one translated "horse marines."

From Pozzuoli to Cuma, 5 miles, by the old Via Cumana. It passes under Monte Barbaro and by the Arco Felice, to the north of Lake Avernus; a brick arch, which served both for the road and also for the aqueduct to Misenum. Beyond this is the Pietro di Pace Grotto.

Cumæ, founded by the Greeks on the Phle græan Field, close to the sea, on the Via Domitiana, which runs along the coast of Campania. It is one of the most ancient cities of Italy, and the mother of old Naples, Aristodemus, the Lacedæmonian, here gave shelter to Tarquinius Superbus, when driven from Rome; the same to whom the Sibylline books had been offered. Nero's favourite, Petronius, died here, by bleeding himself to death.

It had gone to decay in Juvenal's time, was ruined by the Saracens, and was finally depopulated in 1207, when it had become a mere nest of pirates. Its site is an undulating piece of trachyte rock, called Rocca di Cuma, now covered with vineyards, the summit of which was the Acropolis. Here are the remains of broken columns, and marbles with Greek inscriptions; and of a Doric Temple of Apollo. It commands a view of the sea and the cultivated plain around, strewed with ruins. Underneath it was the celebrated *Sibyl's Cave, one of the subterranean passages blocked up by Narses,

when he besieged Cuma. At a farm, called the House of the Sibyl, are some baths, now used as a winepress. Among the other antiquities are parts of an Amphitheatre; a Temple of the Giants, so called from some colossal statues found in it; a Temple of Diana, or a Basilica, discovered in 1852; and a Necropolis, from which some ancient urns have been extracted.

The Domitian road follows the coast past Lake Licola, to Patria and its lake, the site of Liternum, where Scipio Africanus died in voluntary_exile, with this epitaph over his grave:-"Ingrata Patria, ne ossa quidem mea habes."

NAPLES TO THE ISLANDS.

Procida is 14 miles distant; Ischia, 18 miles; Vivara, 16 miles; Capri, 19 miles. Market-boats run daily to the islands, and steamboats, two or three times a week.

Capri (population, 6,000). It is 5 miles from Massa, 9 from Sorrento, 16 from Ischia, and 19 from Naples; and is remarkable for its picturesque scenery and salubrious air. It commands a fine prospect of the bay from seaward. There is no trace of volcanic formation in this island, and to this fact is attributed by many the healthiness of the climate, and the superiority of its vegetable productions; the oil, wine, and the other produce of Capri being regarded as the finest in the kingdom. Perhaps there is no spot in this neighbourhood so little known, yet so well adapted to the English taste. Here a sportsman will find abundance of quails and woodcocks twice in the year, and excellent fishing at all times-the artist, the boldest and most magnificent marine and rocky scenery the antiquary, ruins of Roman grandeur -and the economist cheap and excellent living.

Amongst the natural curiosities of the island should be mentioned the Blue Grotto, the Green Grotto, and one recently discovered; but the lover of splendid scenery should never leave this island without spending a day on the heights. To its other attractions may be added the peculiar character of the air, which is singularly well suited to cases of bronchitis, where the soundness of the lungs can be guaranteed. Donkeys, 2 lire per day; guide, 2 lire.

Conveyances.-There is daily communication with the coast by excellent boats, which may be met with at the Porto di Massa in Naples. Other boats leave twice or three times a week for Massa, Sorrento, and Castellammare. A steamboat goes from Naples to Capri, daily, in the season. Marketboat, two or three times a week.

Capri, or "Crapi," as the people call it, is due south of Naples, and 3 miles west of Cape Campanella, on the main land, as you turn into the southern corner of the bay. It is the ancient Capreæ, so called from its wild goats, and has a very uneven surface of limestone rocks. It is 8 or 9 miles in circuit. From a distance two humps are seen rising up; the highest of which, Monte Solaro, in the middle of the island, is 1,800 feet above the sea; and the lower one ends at Tiberius's Palace;

while the little town of Capri is in the basin between. At the top of Solaro is the village of ANACAPRI (population, 1,667); from which there are 538 steps down the sloping rock to CAPRI, the capital. Population, 6,000. Hotels:

Quisisana, on the south side.

Tiberio; Pagano; de France; de Louvre. English Church Service; and resident Medical

men.

This place, which contains S. Costanza and three or four other churches, and a piazza, is an Oriental looking town, with white walls, palms, and other inviting features. At the Marina is one of the only two landing-places in the island. Near this at the Capo Hill, at the east side of the Capri, facing the main land are the extensive remains of the Palace of Tiberius, or Villa Jovis, first built by Augustus, but enlarged by his successor, and then razed by the Senate after his death. Here Tiberius, leaving the government to Sejanus, lived in gloomy retirement for seven years, half-mad, and giving himself up to the most cruel and abominable crimes.

Only the foundations of Twelve Palaces, as they are called, are left, under the name of Camerelle; also traces of an amphitheatre, &c. The name of a grotto, once devoted to the worship of Mithra and called Mitramonia, has been transferred into Matrimonio.

From the Salto rock, Tiberius, it is said, used to throw his victims, after torturing them. Three rocks in the water like pyramids, near the palace, are called Faraglioni. Several curious caves in the limestone cliffs, to be visited only by boat, deserve notice; as the White Grotto, Green Grotto, the Grotta dell' Arco, but especially the

Grotta Azzurra, or Blue Grotto, so called from the bright sky colour of its transparent interior, which is about 180 feet long. It is entered only by boat in calm weather-or by swimming. Its sides rise out of the water like a dome. At the mouth you have to lie flat in the boat. Mendelssohn describes it in his Letters:-"The light of the sun pierces through the entrance into the grotto underneath the sea, but broken and dimmed by the green water, and thence it is that such magical effects arise. The whole of the high rocks are skyblue and green in the twilight, resembling the hue of moonshine; yet every nook and depth is distinctly visible. The water is thoroughly lit up and brilliantly illuminated by the light of the sea, so that the dark skiff glides over a bright shiningsurface. The colour is the most dazzling blue-I ever saw, without shadow or cloud, like a pane of opal glass; and as the sun shines down, you can plainly discern all that is going down under the surface of the water, while the whole depths of the sea, with its living creatures are disclosed. You can see the coral insects and polypuses clinging to the rocks, anb. far below, fishes of different species meeting and swimming past each other. The rocks become deeper in colour as they go lower into the water and are quite black at the end of the grotto.

Every stroke of the oars echoes strangely under the vault, and as you row round new objects come to light. The effect is singularly magical. On turning towards the entrance the daylight seen through it seems bright orange, and by moving even a few paces you are entirely isolated under the rock in the sea, with its own peculiar sunlight. It is as if you were actually living under the water for a time."

Capri was taken from the French in 1808, by Sir Sidney Smith, on behalf of King Ferdinand; but was retaken in 1808, by General Lamarque. Its population are sailors and fishermen.

The vast flights of quails which annually visit the island, come in August and September from the south in such quantities as to pay the rent of the people. Nets are hung on poles on every high point, and as many as 20,000 are netted in a morning and sent off to Naples and other places. Every third or fourth year swarms of locusts appear. They are taken in sacksful, thrown into boiling water, and then buried.

Procida, half-way between Cape Misenum and Ischia (3 miles from each), is the ancient Prochita, about 8 miles round, with a population of 13,479, mostly sailors and fishermen, and said to be of Greek origin. They dress in the Greek style. Fruit is abundant. They catch the tunny fish here in the season, and rake the sea for coral. Juvenal says, "Ego vel Prochytam præpono Suburræ,"-he preferred it to the Suburra, a gay street of Rome. It is of volcanic origin, like the neighbouring land on both sides, with a well cultivated surface of gentle elevation. The town, dedicated to Maria Cattolica, is a filthy place on the Naples side. From the royal Castle, on Cape di Bacciola, at the north-east corner, there is a good view of the island, and over the channels which separate it from Ischia and the main land, the Bay of Naples, &c. The great festa of the year is at Michaelmas. This island belonged to John of Procida, a physician at Salerno, celebrated for planning the destruction of the French in Sicily, at the "Sicilian Vespers," on Easter Tuesday, 30th March, 1282, in revenge for their tyranny over his countrymen. The small Island of VIVARA is close to the south-west corner towards Ischia.

Ischia. The largest and most beautiful of the islands, 3 miles outside of Procida, 20 miles from Naples. Population, 26,000. The cheapest way to get here is by daily market-boat. Fare, fr., passage three to six hours. It is three hours from the Bay of Naples by steamer; it leaves the island in early morning, and returns in the afternoon. It was called Inarime, Enaria, and Pithecusa; the last from the apes once found on it, or from the ape-shaped potter's works to be seen here.

It is 6 miles long, and about 20 miles in circuit; of volcanic origin, like Procida; with a rocky coast and hilly surface, rising 2,570 feet high, at the summit of the Monte Epomeo range, which has several craters in different parts of it, formerly active. One of them in 1301 threw out a stream of

lava, 2 miles long, to the sea on the east side, making great havoc. Monte Epomeo may be easily ascended from Serrara, Fontana, Foria, Casamicciola, and other villages at the base; and has a magnificent prospect over land and sea, of upwards of 40 miles every way, from the Hermitage of St. Nicholas. Vineyards run up almost to the top.

The island abounds in picturesque sites, hills, green dales, and panoramic views; it has a fine climate; it produces excellent fruit, wine, chest.nuts, clay for pottery, &c. Every cleft is cultivated, and the hills are crowded with laurels,

myrtles, arborvitae, and broom, and it is especially rich in valuable mineral springs. The donkeys are good and safe for riding. The people, says Miss Bremer, slur their words in a lazy way-saying "Yor," for Signor; "Napo," for Napoli; "momo," for momento; "lu," for lume; and so on. Population, 26,000.

The distances are as follows, from Ischia round the island:

Foria has a good trade, and like other places here possesses mineral springs.

Several ancient bas-reliefs and inscriptions, celebrating the benefits of the waters, have been found in different parts of the island. The tall cliffs on the south side abound with sea birds; and coral is raked up from the sea. A Boat Trip of 8 or 9 hours round the coast gives a fine series of views of the island in every possible aspect. Vittoria Colonna, Marchioness of Pescara, and the friend of Michael Angelo, spent several years of her life in Ischia, at the castle of Inarine. It is about 5 hours

boating to Sorrento.

ROUTE 25-Continued.

Naples to Foggia-by rail, viâ Aversa, Caserta, Benevento, and Ariano; or by rail and road, viâ Nola, Montfort, Avellino, and Ariano.

1st. By direct Rail to Aversa, Caserta, Benevento, &c., in 8 to 11 hours.

The stations are as follow:-

Casoria

Ischia, the chief town (population, 6,626), at the north-east corner, on the Strait of Ischia, is a bishop's see, with a small cathedral and a castle on a tall basalt rock, over the sea, built by Alphonso I.; who, in a right royal way, drove the men of this island away and married their wives and daughters to his soldiers. This rock, called Negrone, is joined to the town by a long bridge.

It has a beautiful view of Monte Epomeo and the villages and white villas, Foria, Fontana, &c., on its slopes, buried among cacti, palm trees, and lava blocks. The road from hence to the baths passes the old lava bed, at Campo del Arso, and between some volcanic peaks; one of which has a lake in its crater.

Casamicciola, under the north side of Epomeo. Population, 2,500. Here are the best mineral Baths in the island, under the names of Gurgitello, Cappone, &c., so hot as to run from 140° nearly up to boiling point. They are taken from May to September, and are excellent in paralysis, gout, rheumatism, scrofula, old wounds, &c.

Resident English Chaplain and Resident English Physician.

Several Hotels are scattered about; such as Piccola Sentinella, Des Etrangers, Manzi, Belliazzi, Bellevue, &c.; most of them commanding prospects of the Bay, Vesuvius, the Islands of Procida, Capri, &c., as well as of Gaëta, and more distant points. Here the best clay for the island pottery is found. Garibaldi, when taking the waters in 1864, stopped at Hotel Bellevue, then kept by Zavotta, who was Byron's courier. An earth

quake in March, 1881, worked great damage here, and made three-fourths of the people houseless. In July, 1883, the town was utterly wrecked.

Fratta Grumo.........

S. Antimo....
Aversa
Mercianise
Caserta
Maddaloni

Giardinetto

1074

43

Valle di Maddaloni.. 30
Frasso-Dugenta 33
Amorosi
Telese
Solopaca

...

S. Lor. Maggiore 48 Cusalduni-Ponte 51

...

Naples (Stat.), as in page 235. Hence, from the central terminus, the line strikes through the fertile Terra di Lavoro, near the high-road towards Capua, past the Stations of Casoria, Fratta Grumo, and S. Antimo, to

Aversa (Stat.), near a Norman town of the eleventh century, noted for its sharp Asprino wine and almond cake. Pass

Mercianise (Stat.) to

Caserta (Stat.) and the royal palace, on the main line from Rome to Naples (Route 32). Then to Maddaloni (Stat.), pop. 18,000, where the Foggia line turns off, towards the Volturno, passing

Valle di Maddaloni (Stat.), near the great modern three-storey aqueduct, which supplies the waterworks at the palace, under Monte Taburno.

Dugenta (Stat.), on the Isclero; to the south of which are Mojano and Forchia Arpaja, near the celebrated Furce Caudinæ, or Caudine Forks, the pass where the Romans suffered defeat and humiliation from the Samnites.

Solopaca (Stat.), under Monte Taburno, on the Calore. Then

S. Lorenzo Maggiore (Stat.), near a tunnel in the hills.

Ponte di Benevento (Stat.), on the Calore, under the Torrecuso Hills.

Vitulano (Stat.), near two tunnels.

Benevento (Stat.), the site of Beneventum, on the Via Appia, at the junction of the Calore and Sabbato, was the chief town of the Samnites, who called it Maleventum, on account of the winds which blew here. When the Romans beat them, after their disgrace at the Caudine Forks, they changed the name to the more propitious form of Beneventum. It is a bishop's see, with a population of 18,000. It was a Lombard Duchy, which in 1053 was ceded to the Pope, though entirely surrounded by Neapolitan territory; which Napoleon in 1806 turned into a principality, for that pious son of the church, Talleyrand, ci-devant bishop of Autun. Near this in 1265, Charles of Anjou defeated Manfred, and decided the fate of the house of Suabia. Here Pyrrhus was defeated by C. Dentatus.

The Castle, built in the twelfth century by Pope John XVII., is the Governor's Palace, and has some inscriptions, &c., in the court. A bridge, by Vanvitelli, crosses the Calore, near the remains of a Roman work. The large old Gothic Cathedral has a bronze door of the twelfth century, and sixty-four fluted columns from a Temple of Isis, of which it occupies the site. In front of it is an Egyptian obelisk. The Churches of Santa Sofia and Santissima Annunziata contain some ancient pillars. The former is eight-sided; and in the cloisters is a well, the top of which is part of an Ionic capital cut through.

Among other remains of Roman antiquity is the Porta Aurea or Porta Romana, a well-preserved Triumphal Arch of Parian marble, dedicated to Trajan, on the Puglia road, 113 A.D.; adorned with alto-reliefs referring to his exploits on the Danube. It has four columns on each face, and wants only part of the cornice. There are also traces of an Amphitheatre at the Grottoni di Mappa. Branch of 9 miles to Pietracina.

Leaving this, the line passes Ponte Valentino (Stat.) and Apice (Stat.), on the Calore. Then Buonalbergo (Stat.) and Montecalvo (Stat.) near a tunnel, and so called from a white-topped ridge overlooking it. Starza (Stat.), among

the hills.

Ariano (Stat.), a bishop's see (population, 13,856), on a steep hill, commanding the pass over the Apennines into Puglia; with the remains of a castle built by the Greeks of the Lower Empire for that purpose. It suffered by wars and the earthquakes of 1732, &c. The rocks here are tufa,

Monsignore Caputo, who died at Naples, in September, 1862, was the president and head of the Società Ecclesiastica, for the protection of loyal priests against their bishops.

own

Savignano-Greci (Stat.), so called from Savignano on the Cervaro (ancient Cerbalus), and Greci, a colony of Albanian Greeks, settled here, still speaking their own language, as well as Italian, and using their customs. Montaguto (Stat.), the next, followed by Orsara and Bovino (Stations), the ancient Bovinum, on the Cervaro, in the plains of Puglia. A few miles from this is Troja, another Greek-built place, of the same age as Ariano, with a Romanesque Cathedral, having bronze doors (built 1119). Hence past Giardinetto and Cervaro (Stations) to

Foggia (Stat.), as in Route 34.

Avella, on the left, the site of the Roman Abella, which Virgil commends for its apples. It is still noted for its honey. Remains of an amphitheatre can be traced. Over the hills behind it, about 5 miles distant, is Forchia d'Arpaja, the ancient Caudium, near the celebrated defile of the Caudine Forks above-mentioned, where the Roman army had to pass under the yoke after their defeat by Caius Pontius.

Pass CARDINALE at the head of the Lagni; and up the hills to

MONTE FORTE, and its old Castle of the Montforts, which guarded the pass here. This was the family of which our Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, was the head. Population, 4,465.

MERCOGLIANO (population, 3,219), under a hill in the Apennines, crowned by the Benedictine Sanctuary of Monte Vergine, founded 1119, on the site of a Temple of Cybele.

Avellino (Stat.), now accessible by rail, via Nola and Sarno (Route 32), is near the ancient Abellinum, on the Sabatus, now Sabbato, under the Apennines; celebrated for the "nux avellana," or filbert nut, still grown about here. It is the capital of Principate Ulteriore, and a bishop's see (population, 15,000). The Piazza Pubblico is surrounded by the Town Hall, Obelisk, Clock Tower, and Custom House, the front of which is ornamented by some old statues. There is a fine mountain road, of 20 miles, from Avellino to the Gulf of Salerno. At

Routes 36 and 37.]

ATRIPALDA, or TRIPALDA (population, 5,103), a road turns off towards Lake Amsanctus.

DENTECANE (i.e., dog's teeth), a village in the mountains. From this it is 10 or 12 miles to Benevento (north-west, as above), and as much to the sulphur lake of Mufiti or Amsanctus (south-east), in the crater of a volcano, near Casal di Trigenti.

GROTTAMINARDA, on the Via Appia, which crosses here from Benevento, and strikes off east to TREVICO, or Trevicus, or Trivicum (population, 3,490), among the hills. Then our road crosses the Ufita, and winds up to Ariano (Stat.), as above.

263

and has a castle in the Norman style, with a handsome Cathedral, which was half-ruined by the earthquake of 1851, with a good part of the town. Population, 9,587. It is a bishop's see. The ancient Mons Vultur, above the town, is a volcanic peak, 4,380 feet high at the top, called Pizzuto di Melfi, where a convent stands in the old crater. From Melfi, cross the Ofanto, the Aufidus of Horace, who calls it "tauriformis," because it flows from two branching sources under Monte Vulture.

Rochetta-Melfi (Stat.), and Candela (Stat.) Ascoli (Stat.), population 6,148, the old Asculum apulum, mentioned in the wars with Pyrrhus, and so called to distinguish it from Asculum Picenum,

Eboli (Stat.), as in Routes 35 and 40. The next place is

OLIVETO (population, 3,930), on a picturesque height. Cross the Sele at PALO; thence to VALVO (population, 2,182); and LAVIANO (pop., 2,809), with an old castle. MURO, in a ravine in the province of Basilicata, which has latterly become noted for its bandits. The Castle which overlooks it was that in which Joanna I. in 1381 was smothered, in revenge for her murder of her husband, Andrew of Hungary. Cross the mountains by BELLA (population, 5,457), SANTAFEDE, and Rivo, to

ATELLA (population, 1,823), which in common with other places suffered greatly from the late earthquakes. Pass RIONERA to

BARILE (population, 4,272), under Monte Vulture; whence a branch road of 10 miles leads to Venosa (population, 7,651), the ancient Venusium, on Via Appia, celebrated as the birth-place of Horace, whose marble bust figures in the Piazza Pubblico. The town is a bishop's see, under the east side of the Apennines, looking towards the Adriatic; standing on a level volcanic table, 9 miles round, and precipitous at the edge, evidently raised by subterranean fires. It was sacked by Crocco and his brigands at their rising for Francis II., about 1860, when Canon La Casca and his family were shot. There are remains of an old mediæval castle, and of the Abbey of Santa Trinità, in which Robert Guiscard, the Norman, is buried.

At the head of the stream on which Venosa stands, is the "Bandusiæ fons, splendidior vitro," celebrated by Horace. Venosa is in Apulia, but being near the border, Horace in a rough way calls himself "Lucanus an Appulus, anceps," doubtful whether an Apulian or Lucanian.

Melfi, on a lava hill, under Monte Vulture, was one of the first places possessed by the Normans,

of Puglia to Ordona and Cervaro, for Foggia (Stat.), as in Route 34.

ROUTE 37.

Naples to Eboli, Potenza, Taranto, Gravina,

Bari, Brindisi, and Otranto.

By rail, past Eboli, to Contursi, Sicignano, Buccino, Romagnano, Balvano, Baragiano, Picerno, Tito, and Potenza, as below, 53 miles from Eboli. From Potenza, the line runs down the River Basento, past several stations, among which are Vaglio, Trivigno, Calciano, Grassano, Grottole, Ferrandina, Pisticci, Bernalda (page 268), to Metaponto, 117 miles from Eboli (page 268), near Torremare, on the Coast; where a junction is made for Taranto (page 267), via Pelagiano Iono (on the "Ionian Sea"), and Ginosa, 27 miles; and for South Italy, via Policoro (page 268).

From Eboli the rail goes to Potenza, viâ Buccino (Stat.), &c., as above; but the road crosses the Sele to

LA DUCHESSA, under the ancient Mons Alburus, which runs to the south. There is a romantic mountain descent to Auletta, past Scorso, among forests of oak, beech, &c., with towns and villages (some half ruined), perched on craggy heights. Charcoal burners' fires are seen by night.

AULETTA (pop. 3,552), an old town, 19 miles from Eboli 6 from Buccino, on the Calore or Negro, the ancient Tanager, flowing through a volcanic soil, noted for its manna. Here the road to Calabria parts off by the Via Aquilia, through the Val di Diano. The next place is

VIETRI DI POTENZA (population, 3,673), in the Basilicata. Over a ridge of the Apennines, down to Potenza (Stat.), the ancient Potentia, (population, 17,978), and the capital of the Basilicata; so called after the Emperor, Basilius II., who reconquered it from the Saracens and Lombards, in the eleventh century. It is a backward and thinly peopled district, sloping towards the Gulf of Taranto.

Potenza is pleasantly seated under Monte Acuto, among the hills, and has a cathedral, college, law courts, hospital, palaces, &c., most of which were half-ruined by the earthquake of December, 1857. Several Roman inscriptions have been found at this place, which was an important