Omnibuses to and from the railway station, 50 cents.; street carriages, 1 lira the course or 3 lire the hour; to put down and take up at night, 5 lire; to the Baths, 10 to 12 lire.

At the Baths, 15 miles distant, is a Resident English Physician.

*Chief Objects of Notice.-Duomo, S. Frediano, S. Michele, S. Romano, Public Palace.

Lucca "l'Industriosa" is a clean and well-built city, shut in by ramparts, planted with trees, about 3 miles in circuit, and standing in a rich, marshy plain, cultivated like a garden, to the foot of the surrounding hills. A large proportion of its industrious population are image-makers and plasterers. There are manufactories of silk, linen, and paper. It is the oldest seat of the silk trade (1314) in Italy.

It is the seat of a province, and an archbishop, and was for a time the head of a small duchy, created by Napoleon for his sister Elisa; which in 1847, on the death of his widow, Maria Louisa, Duchess of Parma, was annexed to Tuscany. For two centuries previously it had been governed by an oligarchy like that of Venice.

The chief buildings, Post Office, Theatre, &c., are near the Cathedral and Palazzo Pubblico, which face a large open Piazza Grande, and a statue of Maria Louisa, 1843. In Piazza Mercato, near Porta Santa Maria, on the north side, are the remains of a Roman Amphitheatre of fifty-four arches. Water is supplied by an aqueduct on 459 arches, 2 miles long, built 1823-32, by Nottolini. It has fifty churches, and many palaces

The Duomo, or Cathedral of S. Martino, near Piazza Grande, is a cross, in the Italian-Gothic style, with three aisles, circular and pointed arches in the nave, and painted windows; and was founded 1060, by Bishop Badagio, afterwards Pope Alexander II. The front by Giudetto (1204), has three galleries and rows of arcades, and a porch carved with subjects from the life of St. Martin, including figures of griffins, serpents, lions, eagles, &c., and St. Regulus in controversy with the Arians; above which is Niccolò da Pisa's Descent from the Cross; and below it, Giovanni da Pisa's Adoration of the Magi, much defaced.

It contains several works of a Lucca sculptor of the fifteenth century, Matteo Civitali; as the marble pulpit, 1498; a monument of P. Noceto, 1472, secretary to Nicholas V.; tomb of Count Bertini; angels in the Sacrament Chapel; statues of St. Sebastian and St. John the Baptist, in the Chapel of St. Regulus, a small domed octagon of marble and porphyry, resting on eight pillars. Another St. Sebastian is in the Volto Santo Chapel, an octagon, so called because of a miraculous crucifix found in 782, which is commemorated in C. Rosselli's fresco on the door.

Among the paintings are-Passignano's Nativity and his Crucifixion; F. Zucchero's Adoration of the Magi; Tintoretto's Last Supper; Ghirlandajo's Madonna and Saints; Giovanni da Bologna's Resurrection, and D. de Volterra's Santa Petro

nilla, in the Liberty Chapel, which commemorates the delivery of Lucca from the Pisans, by Charles IV., in 1369; Fra Bartolommeo's Madonna, in the Sanctuary.

The archbishop is allowed to dress in purple, like a cardinal, and all its canons are mitred.

The Croce dei Pisani, a richly ornamented piece of goldsmiths' work of the fourteenth century, is shown upon application.

S. Carmine, near the Piazza Mercata, belongs to the Carmelites, and has a Madonna, by Perugino. S. Cristoforo, with a half-Lombard, half-Gothic front, is the burial-place of M. Civitali, the sculptor. SS. Crocifisso de Bianchi. An Assumption by Spagnoletto.

S. Francesco, near Porta Santa Maria, built 1442, now a magazine. Here is buried Castruccio Castracani, who delivered Lucca from the Pisans, and governed it till his death, 1328. There is an inscription on the wall.

S. Giovanni, near the Duomo, built in the twelfth century, and joined through the north transept to the city Baptistery, a square vaulted pile. In the nave is a head of St. John the Baptist in a charger. The small church of S. Giusto has a good porch.

Sante Maria in Corte Orlandine is attached to the Convent of Chierci Pregoleri della Madre di Deo, founded in the seventeenth century, by Giovanni Leonardi, a native of Lucca; built 1187, and rebuilt 1662. L. Giordani's Assumption at the high altar. A library of 20,000 volumes at the convent.

*S. Frediano, or Basilica Longobardorum, close to the ramparts, near Piazza Mercata, is the largest and most ancient church after the cathedral, and is cited as a complete example of the Lombard style. It was built in the seventh century (685) out of the stones of the neighbouring amphitheatre which the Lombards had raised; but to make room for the walls, it was so altered in the twelfth century, that the apse stood, where the front now stands. This front has a mosaic of Christ on a Throne. tall Campanile adjoins it. The interior consists of three aisles; the middle one flanked by round arches, resting on twenty-two fine columns of various coloured marbles. The baptismal font is carved by Niccolò Civitali, the nephew of Matthew; the old one by a certain Magister Robert.

A

Among the paintings are-Francia's Coronation of the Virgin; and Aspertino's frescoes relating to the finding of the Volto Santo and to the Miracles of St. Frediano, in the Augustine Chapel. In the Sacrament Chapel, carvings by Della Quercia,

1422.

S. Maria Foris-Portam, near Porta Santa Croce, in the east wall, built in the thirteenth century, and enlarged 1516. Here are Guercino's Madonna with St. Francis and Alexander II.; and a Santa Lucia.

*S. Michele, near Piazza Grande, built 764, with an ornamented front, by Giudetto, added 1188, in the style of Pisa Cathedral, with several stories of small arches and pillars. The large Angel at the

Route 24.]

The palaces include:

Palazzo Ducale (now P. Provinziale), a large edifice, begun 1578, by Ammanati, and finished by Giubara, 1729. It has a good marble staircase, a public Library of 40,000 volumes, and a small Picture Gallery, including two good pictures by Fra Bartolommeo-the Madonna della Misericordia Praying for Lucca; and God the Father, with St. Mary Magdalene and St. Catherine of Siena. Among the MSS. are Gospels of the tenth century, and Latin poems by Tasso. The statue of Maria Louisa by Bartolini faces the palace.

Palazzo Pretorio, now the Post Office, facing S. Michele, is a large solid building of the fifteenth century, formerly used as law courts.

Palazzo Borghi, built 1413, by P. Guinigi, is now the Deposito di Mendicità, founded 1413.

Palazzo Guidizione, where the archives are kept. There are several hospitals for the poor and helpless, for foundlings (esposti), and orphans; with a College and high school, the latter having a library of 20,000 volumes.

Theatre del Giglio, built 1817, faces the Piazza Grande. Another, called Teatro Diurno, is near Porta S. Donato, in the west wall.

BATHS OF LUCCA,

15 miles up the Serchio; by diligence, 3 lire. Hotels: De la Croix de Malta; de l'Europe; New York.

Church Service--in the season.

Resident English Physician.-Dr. Gason.

The road passes Marlia, 3 miles, an ex-ducal country-seat, with a convent and gardens, copied from those at Marli near Paris; Ponte della Maddalena, or del Diavolo, with its high pitched middle arch, 12 miles; then the Lima to

PONTE A SERRAGLIO, 15 miles, in the midst of the warm sulphur springs, and the villages which have grown up around them. The veal, trout, olives, and oil are all excellent. Under the names of Bagni alla Villa (old palace), and Bagni Caldi, Doccebassi, Bernabo &c., the *Baths occupy a pleasant and healthy part of the valley of the Serchio, and are much frequented from May to October. The temperature ranges from 93° to 130°, they are clear and contain sulphates of lime and magnesia, with iron; and are useful in skin diseases, fevers, nervous complaints, and diseases of the glands.

There is a good supply of hotels, lodging-houses, shops, reading rooms, ponies, donkeys, &c., with an

115

English church, book club, and a hospital for the poor, founded by Count Demidoff. The Casino is a fine building, 140 feet long.

Excursions to the pretty village of Lugliano and its ash trees, and San Marcello, up the Lima; to Prato Fiorito, and Montagna di Celle; to the Bargello Tower; and to the more distant height of Tre Potenze and Rondinajo, 3,200 feet, in the Appenines, commanding extensive prospects of land and sea, even as far as Corsica.

Following the rail, the next place to Lucca is Pescia (Stat.) Population, 12,339. Among mulburiano wine. berry grounds and paper works. Redi praises its

Montecatini (Stat.), population, 6,276, under a hill about 500 feet high. Here are some old fortifications, and waters drunk in cases of dysentery and liver complaints; temperature, 70° to 80°. Hotel: Locanda Maggiore. To the right is Monsummano (mineral springs here at the Bath House), the birthplace of Giusti, the famous patriotic poet, who died 1849. He was the friend of Azeglio and Ridolfi. At

Serravalle (Stat.) Population, 5,467. Here an old fort guards a pass in the hills, a tunnel through Monte Albano. Cross the Ombrone to

Pistoja (Stat.), where the Bologna railway joins. (See Route 21.) This is the Italian Birmingham, styled "La Ferrigna," from the arms and other iron goods made here, among which are pistols, first invented here by Camillo Vitelli, about 1520. Machinery, nails, pins, cutlery, pistols, ploughs, organs, &c., still figure among its productions; as well as good mutton and melons." Population, 12,225.

Hotels: La Posta; di Londra; la Stella.

It is the ancient Pistoria, at the foot of the Apennines, of a square shape, with bastions and gates at each corner, and good wide streets. It is the seat of a diocese, one of whose prelates was Scipione di Ricci, a reforming bishop of the last century; and in mediæval history it is celebrated for the invention of the Bianchi and Neri, or black and white Guelphs. These originated in a quarrel, in 1296, between the Cancellieri and Pânciatechi families, whose old palaces are here. In 1306, its first walls were razed by the Florentines, which proved a fatal blow to its prosperity.

In the Piazza dol Duomo at the centre of the town, near the cathedral, is the

Palazzo Pretorio, now the Law Court, an ItalianGothic building of the fourteenth century, the seat of the Podestà in the time of the republic. Facing this is the picturesque

Palazzo Comunale, or degli Anziani, built 1295-1385. Over the middle window is a black marble bust of Tedici, who betrayed Pistoja to his father-in-law, Castruccio Castracani, of Pisa, in 1325. In the advocates' room is a gigantic sketch of a Captain Grandenio, 15 feet high.

The Duomo, or Cathedral of S. Jacopo, covered with black and white marble, was founded by the Countess Matilda, and restored by Niccolò da Pisa,

in the thirteenth century; it has an outer pulpit; the interior has been modernised. The Campanile fronting Torre del Podestà, is by Ciovanni da Pisa. Above the principal doorway is a terra cotta bas-relief, by A. della Robbia, which was gilded in 1503. It contains a monument of the jurist and poet Cino, the friend of Dante and Petrarch, sitting in his chair, surrounded by his pupils, with a figure of Selveggia, his mistress, to whom his poems were addressed. Portrait of Petrarch. Verrocchio's Monument of Cardinal Fortiguerra, a patron and founder of the Sapienza, 1473, and whose old family palace remains here. C. Allori's Resurrection.

In S. Jacopo Chapel is the *Silver Altar, having a niched figure of St. James, with apostles, angels, &c., and ornaments in silver and enamel, being a joint contribution of sculptors and artists (Brunelleschi, &c.) of the fourteenth century, resident at Pistoja. Facing the cathedral is the Baptistery, or S. Giovanni Rotondo, a marble octagon, by Andrea da Pisa, 1357.

The Bishop's Palace, a handsome building, erected by Scipio di Ricci. In 1786 he held a synod of his clergy. He opposed indulgences, and favoured a liturgy in the common tongue, and the independence of the bishops, besides other reforms, the advocacy of which brought upon him a decree of suspension from Pius VI., who issued against the synod the Bull (1795) "Auctorem fidei." Ricci submitted, and was reconciled at Florence 1805, under Pius VII. He was born at Florence in 1741, his mother being a member of the Ricasoli family. Opposite the palace is the Theological College, with a beautiful corridor and gardens. Cardinal Fortiguerra's Library and Statue.

S. Bartolommeo and S. Paolo are both of the twelfth century. S. Bartolommeo, S. Andrea, S. Michele, and S. Giovanni, have each an outer carved Pulpit.

S. Domenico, built 1250. It contains Fra Bartolommeo's Madonna; Empoli's Miracle of St. Carlo Borromeo, with portraits of the Rospiglioso family; C. Allori's St. Dominic receiving the Rosary, with the painter's portrait; R. Ghirlandajo's St. Sebastian; and tomb of Lazzari the jurist.

S. Giovanni Evangelisia, or Forcivita, so called from having been outside the city walls, which now enclose it. Built in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. The font is by Giovanni da Pisa.

Santa Maria dell' Umiltà, an octagon church, in the Corinthian style, and one of the best in Pistoja; begun 1509, by Vitoni, and finished by Vasari, who built the cupola. At one of the altars is the gold laurel crown of Corilla Olimpica, a poetess, which she consecrated to the Virgin.

S. Salvatore, rebuilt 1270. Here Catiline is said to have been buried, after his flight from Rome, upon Cicero's exposure of his conspiracy, and his defeat by the Consuls, in this neighbourhood. The street is called Tomba di Catilina.

S. Spirito, built by Ramignani, with a high altar,

by Bernini, supported by four columns of verdeantic, from the Villa Papa Giulio at Rome

The Ospedale Grande del Ceppo, founded in 1218-77, and since restored, has some bas-reliefs, by the Della Robbias, and others, and a good cornice. Among the natives of Pistoja are Pope Clement IX., Bracciolini, Ventura, the architect, and Cipriani, the painter. Near here are

Abetone, a mountain resort near Monte Cimone, and Cutigliano, another health resort lower down, Prato (Stat.), on the Bisenzino, under the Apennines. Population, 13,410. An old walled town, with a Cathedral of the twelfth and fifteenth centuries, containing the Virgin's Girdle, and paintings by F. Lippi, A. Gaddi, &c.; a Gothic campanile; and a Palazzo del Popolo, now the prison. Within a short distance is the Monteferrato range, and its serpentine quarries.

Sesto (Stat.), population, 10,754, near the Doccia Porcelain Factory, and Monte Morello (2,700 feet high).

Florence (Stat.) (See Route 26).

ROUTE 25.

Pisa, to Leghorn, Cecina, Saline, Volterra, Elba, Grosseto, Civita Vecchia, and Rome.

This is the western coast line, following the Via Aurelia, in ancient Etruria. It is the least interesting route of any towards Rome, and is therefore seldom taken, especially as it passes through the Maremma districts, where fever prevails from June to October. (See Bradshaw's Continental Guide. The stations are

Leghorn

Colle Salvetti... Fauglia

Orciano

Miles.

Miles.

Acquabona

Cecina....

Campiglia Maritt... 594 Civita Vecchia...... 170 The line follows the old road, passing nothing of interest.

LEGHORN (Stat.)

Livorno in Italian; Livourne in French.
Population (1881), 97,616, with suburbs.

Hotels: Grand Hotel, M. J. Spatz, proprietor; Aquila Nera; du Nord; Grand Hotel and Pension Americaine, outside the Porta a Mare; Grande Bretagne.

Omnibuses attend the arrival of the trains at the railway stations; fares, 50 cents.; carriage fare, 1 lira 50 cents.; cittadine, 80 cents the course; to the mola, Ilira 50 cents.; per hour, 1 lira 70 cents. Boat hire depends on the distance the vessel is lying off in the bay, from 2s. to 3s. and 5s. each person; bargain beforehand if possible.

Travellers will do well to provide themselves here with whatever specie they are likely to require,

The foreign goods for the supply of Tuscany are imported through Leghorn.

Post-office, Piazzo Carlo Alberto. Telegraph, Via del Telegrafo.

British Chapel, near the old English Cemetery; service at 11 a.m., and in the afternoon.

Scotch Presbyterian Church, near the old English Cemetery; service at 11 a.m. and 6 p.m.

English Consul.-A. P. Inglis, Esq.
Resident American Consul.

Commission Agents and Bankers.-Macbean & Co. English and American Bankers.-Messrs. Maquay. Offices, 7 and 8, Via Borra.

Conveyances.-Railroad to Pisa, Pontedera, and Florence. Steamers almost daily, during the to Civita Vecchia, Naples, and Sicily, seasor, Genoa, Nice, and Marseilles.

Leghorn stands on a plain on or near the site of Portus Herculis, or Liburni, and was founded by the Florentines (to whom it was ceded by Genoa in 1421), upon the decay of Porto Pisano. Being comparatively modern, it is regularly built, with wide-paved streets. The west part, near the harbour, called Nuova Venezia, is traversed by canals into the Arno, leading up to the merchants' warehouses, and the old magazine, &c. A principal street, the Via Victor Emmanuel, runs from the harbour to the Pisa Gate, across the Piazza d'Armi, at the middle of the town, in which stands the Duomo and Palazzo del Governo. It is about two miles round, exclusive of Borgo Cappucini and other suburbs. It is lit with gas, and supplied with water by an aqueduct from Colognole, made 1792.

Leghorn is a porto franco, or free port, so called; where goods may be landed and exported without paying duty; it is a great nest of smuggling; and, as might be expected, the shops are numerous and well supplied. The English are liked, and their language is not unknown to the natives, who, as a class, are industrious, peaceable, and tolerant. Besides many English, French, American, and Greek residents, here are found the descendants of Jews and Moors expelled from Spain, and of refugees and traders from other nations, invited to settle here by the liberal policy of Cosmo I., Ferdinand I., and their successors, who created it a free port, and steadily favoured its progress. From 1808 to 1814, it was almost annihilated by Napoleon's continental system; but since that period it has recovered.

There is an old or inner Harbour for smaller vessels, protected by a Mole, half a mile long, to the lighthouse at the end; besides a new or outer harbour protected by a Breakwater begun by the Austrians and lately finished. Elephants tusks were found in the soil near the Docks, in 1882. Large craft lie inside this or anchor outside in the Roads. Here Lord Keith's flagship, the Queen Charlotte, took fire in 1800, when 700 out of 850 men were burnt or drowned. Near the Darsena or basin, in the inner harbour, is Giovanni dell' Opera's large statue of Ferdinand I., surrounded

by a group of four Turkish slaves, by Tacca. There are also extensive lazarettos, and a prison.

The Piazza dei Due Principi is so called from the statues of Ferdinand I. and III. and Leopold II., which stand here. Royal Palace; Town Hall. The old Torre Rossa, or Red Tower, with its lion for a weathercock, is the only piece of antiquity here.

Leghorn is a bishop's see, and has a Duomo or Cathedral, built by Vasari, with a front designed by Inigo Jones, who travelled in Italy in the early part of his career, and imported the Italian by Ligozzi, Cigoli, and Empoli. There are several style of Palladio into England. It has paintings other Churches as Santa Maria Virgine, S. Domenico, S. Giovanni, &c., all adorned with marbles; an English chapel and cemetery; a Dutch church and cemetery, laid out with flowers; a handsome Synagogue, richly ornamented; two Greek churches, with some curious paintings: Armenian church; Maronite church; Theatre and Opera House.

The English Cemetery, on the ramparts, contains the graves of Smollett, with an epitaph by his friend, Dr. Armstrong, the poet, and of Francis Horner, with a likeness by Chantrey on his marble tomb. Smollett wrote his "Humphrey Clinker"

here.

Leghorn having a good mild climate, is frequented for bathing in summer, and also for its sulphur waters at Pozzolenti and Montenero, outside the walls. The Montenero Hills, near the springs, are covered with Villas of the merchants, who reside here; and command fine views of the sea and the islands of Gorgona, &c. At the monastery on the summit is a miraculous portrait of the Madonna, about six centuries old. Victor Emmanuel landed here in 1860, after the annexation of Central Italy, and his progress hence to Florence and Piacenza was one long triumph.

There is a great trade carried on in silk, oil, straw hats, iron (from Elba), alabaster, wine, spirits, anchovies, coral, &c., besides general commodities. Government tobacco factory here.

Routes. By rail to Pisa, Lucca, Empoli, Siena, Florence, Cecina, Saline, Follonica, &c.; by steamer to Genoa, 12 hours; Marseilles, 26 hours; Civita Vecchia, 12 hours. (See Bradshaw's Continental Guide).

From Leghorn the railway bends to the north, and then turns south to

Colle Salvetti (Stat.) Followed by Fauglia and Orciano (Stat.)

Population, 7,448.

Aquabona (Stat.), near the River Fine.

Cecina (Stat.), on the River Cecina. Here are smelting works for iron from Elba, and a branch railway turns inland up the river to Saline towards Volterra.

[It is 18 miles long; two trains daily. The stations are

San Martino, 5 miles.

Casino di Ferra, 5 miles,

Ponte Ginori, 44 miles; and

Saline (Stat.) (3 miles), close to the Moje salt works and brine springs. These are a government monopoly, and produce a revenue of nearly £100,000. About four miles north-west is

VOLTERRA, on the site of Volaterra, One of the most ancient and interesting cities of Etruria, on a hill about 1,800 feet high, composed of soft marl and tufa, in which the ancient sepulchres were excavated, and whence so many Etruscan urns have been obtained. The hill commands an extensive view over the Maremma (or marsh land of the coast) of Monte Catini and its copper mines, and of a volcano in that direction. Population, 13,090.

Volterra is made up of narrow streets and many tower-looking houses, and is inclosed by walls, which are contained within the circuit of the first Etruscan walls. Of these there are some remains in the shape of massive uncemented blocks at Porta de Diana, and an arched gateway at Porta dell' Arco, having three heads on it, in good preservation. On the north side is a fort, or

Citadel, built 1343 by the Duke of Athens. It contains the Mastio, or Maschio Tower, an old state prison of the Dukes of Tuscany, in which Lorenzini, who was confined here (1682-93) by Cosmo III., wrote his work on geometry.

The Palazzo Pubblico, the old seat of the Podestà, when Volterra was a republic, is of the thirteenth century, and has a high tower, in which P. Inghiarami, the Capitano, and his party, were suffocated (1472) in an insurrection.

Here are the public Library and a Museum of Antiquities, including the Guarnacci collection of coins, bronzes, urns, MSS. The antiquities are chiefly Etruscan; as gold ornaments, gems, bronzes, coins, candelabra, vases, &c., in terra cotta, but especially Urns, or sarcophagi, to the number of 550, in which the other relics were placed, along with the ashes of the dead body after burning. These urns are of tufa and alabaster-rarely of terra cotta, and have been found in the sepulchres, or Ippogei, cut in the rock on which the city stands.

The entrance to each vault is down steps, to a doorway closed by a large stone, and having an upright stone or cippus placed before it, bearing an inscription. The urns were ranged on steps rising one above another along the sides of the vault, or piled up in the middle round a column. As many as forty to fifty urns have been found in one cave. The urns have a lid, which sometimes rises like the roof of a house; they are carved with bas-reliefs of mythological subjects, occasionally gilt and coloured, and have the names of ancient Etruscan or Roman families inscribed on them.

Alabaster carving is the chief business here. The Cathedral was founded 1120, enlarged by Niccolò da Pisa, 1254, and restored 1574. Among its paintings are Domenichino's Conversion of St. Paul; S. di Tito's Resurrection of Lazarus; F. Lippi's Virgin and Child; Volterrano's Virgin,

and his St. Joseph; and B. Gozzolio's frescoes of the Virgin. In St. Octavian's Chapel is Settignano's statue of the saint (1525).

The Baptistery of S. Giovanni is an octagon, built 1283, on the site of a Roman temple. The fonts are by Sansovino (1502).

S. Lino's Conventual Church, founded 1480, by Massei, a theologian, contains his tomb and statue, by Mino da Fiesole, with some other statues by Staggi.

Casa Ricciarelli was the birthplace of Daniele da Volterra, a native of this town, and a painter, who assisted M. Angelo at the Vatican.

About 7 miles west of Volterra are the Monte Catini and La Cava Copper Mines, producing 3,000 tons yearly, most of which is sent to England; and Monte Massi, 1,900 feet high.

From Moje, on the road to Marsa, about 10 miles south, is RIPOMERANCIO, or Pomerance, near the Lagoni, or borax lakes of Monte Cerboli and Larderello, which takes name from its founder, an enterprising Frenchman, the late Count Larderel, who established works here in 1818. The hot vapour itself which issues from the soil is turned to account in the manufacture of boracic acid, which is exported to England for glass-making, &c. About 300 men are employed at the works.] Leaving Cecina Station, on the main line, the rail comes to

Bambolo (Stat.), the nearest to the borax works above mentioned, about 15 miles east.

S. Vincenzo (Stat.) Here a road parts off close along the coast, towards Elba.

[POPULONIA (6 miles), close to an old castle and the remains of the Etruscan town and port of Pupluna. Further on is PIOMBINO (6 miles), a small town (population, 2,178), once the head of a principality, at the corner of a peninsula, which is 6 miles from the nearest point of the

ISLAND OF ELBA,

And 14 miles from Porto Ferrajo, its chief town, sometime the residence of Napoleon I., upon his abdication, from the end of May, 1814, to 26th February, 1815, when he left for Cannes. It is now a convict settlement.

It is the Roman Ilva, about 18 miles long, and 3 to 10 broad, with several small bays, the best of which is that of Porto Ferrajo, which Napoleon compared to Tor Bay, when he saw it in 1815 from the deck of the Northumberland. The surface is hilly and bare, the highest point being Monte dell' Campana, 3,600 feet above the sea. Its rich iron mines at Rio Marino (Scotch Church here), which were worked by the Romans, are contained in a hill about 2 miles round, and 500 feet high, and yield 50 to 75 per cent. of metal, the ore being smelted at Cecina, Follonica, &c., on the mainland. Here ancient bronze and stone implements, arrow heads, knives, and adzes were found, 1865.

Population, 21,877; of whom 5,064 are at Porto Ferrajo, the capital, guarded by forts Falcone and Stella, which Napoleon amused himself by strength