ing Cornia (54 miles) we cross a large plain, and go through a pine forest, with thick underwood which harbours abundance of wild boars and deer. There are extensive government ironworks at Follonica (65 miles), which produce several millions of pounds of superior metal annually. These works are only in operation from December to May, as at other seasons malaria is prevalent. The line now turns away from the Mediterranean and passes through a valley to Potassa (74 miles), which derives its name from the quantities of potash produced in the neighbourhood. We presently reach GROSSETO (90 miles), (Hotel L'Aquila), a fortified town, and a bishop's see. The Cathedral is in the Italian Gothic style of the 13th century. The facade is of red and white marble, and the portal is adorned with elaborate sculptures. The piazza contains a statue of the Grand Duke Leopold II. There is a public library, and a small museum. A few miles distant are the ruins of the once powerful Etruscan city of Rusellæ. We next reach Talamone (105 miles), the ancient Telamon, beyond which we cross the Osa, and soon afterwards the Albegna, and reach the station of that name (110 miles). Near the mouth of the river, on the right, is the Torre delle Saline, in which salt is stored. There is a fine view from this point. Some miles distant are the interesting remains of the ancient city of Vetulonia. Excavations have been made, and several earthenware vases and bronzes discovered. Many tombs, adorned with paintings, have been opened in the neighbourhood. On

quitting Albegna we pass the Stagno, or Salt Lake, of Orbetello, lying beneath Monte Argentaro, the Mons Argentarius of

On the

the ancient Romans. sea-coast are the fortified ports of San Stefano, and Port' Ercole (the ancient Portus Herculis), the chief business of which is in the tunny fisheries. Orbetello (114 miles) is a town of about 3200 inhabitants, situated on the shore of the salt lake above mentioned. In its vicinity, at Ansedonia, are the ruins of the ancient Cosa, which are deserving of a visit. They can be reached by a boat, the distance being four or five miles.

We now pass by the foot of the hill of Ansedonia, and near the Lago Burano, and crossing the Chiarone, which marks the frontier between Italy and the Papal States, and the Fiora, we pass Montalto, the frontier town of the Papal States, and Corneto, and reach

CIVITA VECCHIA (159 miles), (Hotel: Orlandi's). This town, which is a free port, has of late years acquired considerable importance from the construction of the railway to Rome, and the increase of steam navigation on the Italian coast. Many passengers make the journey to Italy vid Marseilles and this place. The Port was constructed in the reign of Trajan, and considerable additions and improvements have been made, from time to time, subsequently. About three miles distant are some mineral springs called Bagni di Trajano. Ôn the foundations of the aqueduct erected under Trajan another has been constructed by which water is conveyed a distance of twentythree miles. The Rocca, or Castle, contains some Roman and Etruscan remains, and there are others in several private collections.

Leaving Civita Vecchia we proceed for about fifteen miles along the sea-coast. The line passes beneath the western range of the

hills of La Tolfa, near the site of the Roman station of Castrum Novum, on the Aurelian Way. A fine view opens out as we approach Santa Marinella (165 miles). Here is a mediæval castle, on the site of the old Roman fortress of Punicum. Near this place are the remains of a massive bridge which crossed a small stream on the Aurelian Way. At Santa Severa (170 miles) we pass a very fine mediæval fortress, surrounded by a turreted wall. This village occupies the site of Pyrgos, the port of Care, which was celebrated in former times. Palo (179 miles) consists merely of a few houses

Station, near the Thermæ of Diocletian, in the Piazza dei Termini.

(For description of Rome see Route 180.)

ROUTE 179.

FLORENCE TO ROME, BY ORVIETO.

(DIRECT ROUTE).

port displaying traces of Roman works. Numerous Etruscan antiquities have been discovered in the neighbourhood. Pompey and Antoninus Pius once had villas here. On leaving Palo we turn away from the coast. Crossing the Capine, we see on each side of the bridge the ruins of a sepulchre. We proceed for a considerable distance through a very fertile country, and enter the valley of the Tiber. We keep along the left bank of that river, and shortly after passing La Magliana (200 miles) obtain our first view of ROME, the prospect extending over the Campagna and the Alban hills beyond. Passing the base of the Monte Verde, we cross the Tiber on an iron bridge, and skirt the Aurelian Wall for some distance, passing near the Protestant Cemetery, and the pyramid of C. Cestius. We then cross the Via Ostiensis over a viaduct, and go on to the Porta Maggiore, where the line from Naples falls in. We enter the city by an opening in the Aurelian Wall. We pass the ruins of the Temple of Minerva Medica, and the church of St Bibiana, and reach the Central

38 05; second, 26.40.

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EAVING Florence we proceed up the valley of the Arno to Pontassieve (12 miles), and Figline (25 miles). In the neighbourhood of the latter place great quantities of fossil bones of various animals have been discovered. The upper valley of the Arno is interesting to the geologist. At San Giovanni (30 miles), the Duomo, and the church of San Lorenzo, contain some interesting paintings. Montevarchi (33 miles) contains the Museum of the Academia Val d'Arnese, in which the geologist will find a good collection of the fossil remains found in the district. Passing some other places we reach AREZZO (55 miles), (Hotel: Vittoria). It is a place of great antiquity, and is delightfully situated along the slopes of a range of hills. Under the name of Arretium, it was one of the most important cities of the ancient Etruscan League.

The Piazza Grande is adorned with handsome colonnades. It contains, among other buildings, the Church of Santa Maria della

Pieve, dating from the commencement of the ninth century.

The Duomo is a handsome Italian Gothic structure, dating from 1177, with additions made in the thirteenth century. The facade is finely sculptured. The interior is adorned with frescoes and beautiful stained-glass windows. Near the high altar is a marble shrine by Giovanni di Pisa, covered with bas-reliefs and small statues. Amongst the tombs which deserve attention are those of Tarlati, Bishop of Arezzo, and chief of the Ghibellines, erected about the year 1330, and that of Pope Gregory X., dating from 1275. In the chapel of the Madonna del Conforto are two fine paintings by Luca della Robbia, and one by Andrea. There are some other paintings and frescoes that merit attention.

The church of the Badia di Santa Fiora has its ceiling adorned with paintings by Pozzi. The refectory contains Vasari's paint ing of the "Banquet of Ahasuerus."

The church of San Francesco contains some beautiful frescoes behind the high altar, and some other good paintings, besides a fine circular window filled with stained glass. The churches of the Annunziata, San Domenico, San Bartolomeo, and San Bernardo, have interesting frescoes.

The Palazzo Publico, erected in 1332, but modernized, contains a collection of paintings by native artists. The Confraternità di Santa Maria della Misericordia has a beautiful Gothic front and portal. Besides being an institution for the relief of the poor, it contains a library, and a museum of natural history and antiquities.

Leaving Arezzo we proceed along the valley of the Chiana. Passing Castiglione (661 miles), in the Collegiate Church of which

there are some good paintings, we reach CORTONA (72 miles), situated on the slope of a mountain, upwards of 2,000 ft. above the sea. A great portion of the ancient wall is preserved, and there are several Etruscan remains within the town, and outside it.

The Accademia Etrusca, in the Palazzo Pretorio, contains a library and a museum, chiefly of bronzes and coins. The Cathedral and the other churches contain several paintings of merit.

[At TERONTOLA (77 miles) a line goes to PERUGIA, and thence by Foligno to Terni and Orte, where it rejoins the direct route between Florence and Rome.

PERUGIA is described in Route 180, below.]

After leaving Terontola, the line passes near the celebrated LAKE OF THRASIMENE (Lago Trasimeno), near which was fought the great and disastrous battle between the Romans and Carthaginians. This lake is about 8 miles across in the widest parts, and measures about 30 miles in circumference. It is surrounded by low hills covered with oaks and pines, and abounding in plantations of olives. The principal island, the Isola Maggiore, contains a convent. There are two other islands, of no note.

Passing CHIUSI, 94 miles, where the line from Empoli and SIENA comes in, we pass Ficule and presently reach ORVIETO (119 miles), (Hotels: Belle Arti, Aquila Bianca). Its chief object of interest is its CATHEDRAL, one of the most remarkable specimens of Gothic architecture in Italy. It was begun in 1290. Work was continued upon it for 300 years, and the edifice, with its sculptures, frescoes, mosaics, and its stained glass, is a sort of résumé of the progress of modern art. The most remarkable portions

are the famous sculptured front by Niccolo and Giovanni da Pisa, the interior, the tribune and the paintings of the first half of the 14th century. Near the high

altar is an Annunciation in marble. On the altars in the transept, Adoration of the Magi, sculptures by Moscha, and his son Moschino, aged 15 years. In the chapel of the Madonna di S. Brizio are the BEAUTIFUL FRESCOES of Luca Signorelli, the AntiChrist, the Resurrection, the Last Judgment, and Hell.

One of the curiosities of Orvieto is the curious well called Pozzo di S. Patrizio, with spiral stairways dug in the rock, a work of 1527.

Our route follows now the valley of the Tiber as far as ORTE (145 miles), at which place the line from Perugia and Terni comes in.

We now pass several unimportant stations, making no stops, and reaching the Campagna soon distinguish the dome of St Peter's and other prominent objects in "the Eternal City."

ROUTE 180.

PERUGIA TO ROME.

PERUGIA is 51 miles from Terontola, a station on the direct line from Florence to Rome. See Route next above. Four trains a day connecting with trains from Florence and Rome; fare from Terontola to Perugia, first, 950; second, 6·65.

HIS town, like Cortona, was a powerful member of the Etruscan

League. Great portions of the ancient walls have been preserved, together with the gates, more or less perfect. The principal ancient gate is called the Arch of Augustus. Its arch is 30 ft. high, adorned with an Ionic frieze. It is flanked by two towers. The Porta Marzia has been removed from its original position, and built into the wall of the castle.

The Cathedral is a mixture of the Gothic and Roman styles.

The chapels are finely decorated. In the right transept is a red marble sarcophagus, containing the remains of three Popes Innocent III., Urban IV., and Martin IV.

Perugia contains upwards of 100 churches and oratories, and several monastic institutions. The most attractive are the following:-The Convent of S. Agnese, the church of S. Agostino, the Confraternità di S. Agostino, the church of S. Angelo, Confraternità di S. Benedetto, Confraternità of SS. Andrea and Bernardino, the church of San Domenico, the church of S. Ercolano, the Convent Church of S. Francesco dei Conventuali,and the

Church attached to the Benedictine Monastery of S. Pietro dei Casinensi.

The Piazza del Sopramuro derives its name from the vaults on which it stands, and which were constructed to fill the space between the eminences on which the cathedral and the fortress are placed. It contains two palaces, one now styled the Tribunale del Circondario, the other the Tribunale di Appello.

The Great Fountain, near the Cathedral, consists of three basins, the two lower of marble, the upper of bronze. The marble basins have twenty-four sides, adorned with bas-reliefs. bronze basin is supported by a column of the same metal. Three nymphs, surmounted by as many griffins, rise from its centre.

The

The Piazza del Papa, near the Cathedral, is so called from its containing a bronze statue of Pope Julius III.

The Palazzo Connestabile, in this square, contains the Staffa Madonna, by Raphael.

The Palazzo Communativo, in the Corso, opposite the Cathedral, contains the principal public offices, and the residence of the Prefect. The doorway is in the Italian Gothic style, and is richly sculptured. It contains the arms of the allied cities of Rome, Bologna, Florence, Pisa, Naples, and Venice; the Papal arms, and those of the Kings of France; statues of saints, and other figures.

The Sala del Cambio (Hall of the Bankers and Money Changers) is ornamented with choice frescoes by Perugino. In some of these he was assisted by Raphael.

The University, established in 1320, has a Botanical Garden, a Cabinet of Mineralogy, and a Museum of Antiquities. It is the third largest University in Italy.

The Pinacoteca, or Gallery of

Paintings, contains many good pictures. The best pictures from the churches have been collected here, and the collection is a very important one. It contains 34 works of Perugino.

The Public Library contains upwards of 30,000 volumes, and a number of valuable manuscripts.

The Lunatic Asylum, outside the Porta di S. Margherita, is admirably conducted, and is well worth a visit from those who are interested in such institutions. (It is 129 miles from Perugia to Rome, by way of Foligno and Terni.)

Leaving Perugia, we presently pass Ponte San Giovanni, where we cross the Tiber, the boundary between Etruria and Umbria. Passing Bastia, we reach

ASSISI, otherwise styled La Madonna degli Angeli, from the beautiful church of that name, erected to enclose the cell and chapel of St Francis. About a mile and a half distant is the village of Assisi, with its famous double church (upper and lower), and convent founded by St Francis.

Behind Assisi rises the Monte Subasio, 3620 ft. above the sea.

Leaving Assisi, we pass Spello, which contains a handsome Roman gateway, and other remains. The Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Maggiore contains two good frescoes by Perugino; in the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament are three fine frescoes by Pinturrichio, representing the Annunciation, the Nativity, and Christ disputing with the Doctors. Crossing the Topino we reach

FOLIGNO (Hotel: Aquila d'Oro.) It has a Cathedral and five churches, none of which call for any attention. A considerable trade is done in cattle, and in the manufacture of woollen goods and wax candles.